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Old 15th February 2007, 09:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
Eric Frei Administrator - Brisbane L5 (Dip) Hort Cert III Arb + some
 
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Question Are YOU teaching bad habits? How to stand up a limb

You'll often hear me say ... "everyone is an expert in our field."

You know, the home-owner tells you what is right and where to cut, and of course they used to cut trees when they were younger.

But that's nothing, a bigger danger lurks, and with high speed internet some of these "educators" are influencing many in profound ways.

I recently had brought to my attention a thread running elsewhere where the site owner started a thread called

"How to stand up a limb"

referring to craning operations on limbs that aren't vertical.

Below is the series of pics taken and displayed boldy in public full frontal view of how to go about it.





Now this is how I saw it... note the red lines.





Then later in the thread a picture of blocking down.



Now people see this and think it's OK.

Are they qualified let alone certified trainers? Sure you may do things in your day to day work that are questionable but you don't actually make yourself out to be an authority on the subject and offer a "how to" guide.

Would the suitably qualified and experienced crane workers care to elaborate on what they do so the industry is a little wiser.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg mbcranelift-1.jpg (124.4 KB, 894 views)
File Type: jpg mbcranelift2-1.jpg (127.3 KB, 812 views)
File Type: jpg mbchunking-1.jpg (73.9 KB, 784 views)
File Type: jpg mbcrane.jpg (155.6 KB, 802 views)
File Type: jpg mb2.jpg (191.4 KB, 820 views)
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Old 17th February 2007, 10:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
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gee ekka here in the U.S. up north foot ball star they had Breat Fearve (guarter back grean bay packer,,old sucks anyway) sawen wood in shorts, and tennys, big smile on his face un real!!! in an ad on tv for all to see!
showed your post to your my wife(also known as my groundgirl)(although we dont do crain work) and hell she even picked it out pretty quick! befor she seen arrows! i quess its not rocket science!
I have always been a stickler about chain saw handling and how to hold the saw just because from working in the logging industry i have seen some bad chain saw accedents in the middle of the woods,not only on other people but but damm near cut my foot off also!
got a tree magizine today and they asked about a safty watch and it was there way of alerting us to safty violations in there mag.!!!!so be it they had a photo of somone! no helmet i see for now
ok what do say about this advisertisment? i was always taught from cutting timber in the woods to always have your thumb wraped around the saw handle. trust me when ya see your buddys forhead gouged in half in the middle of nowhere its to late to remind him to hold on tighter expecialy when you are the only one to go home from work that day!!
Please people we have them thumbs for one reason so hold on and go home!
AM I RIGHT? HERE IS A PATIAL PHOTO FROM THE AD AND DO TELL ME IF IM WRONG or PERHAPS YA CAN ALL HANG ON ALOT TIGHTER. pg 28
hold on.JPG
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Old 17th February 2007, 11:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Default Crane work

Firstly i want to start off by saying the danger with using cranes in tree work is underrated. It seems climbers are pretty casual with cranes but its crucial to keep your wits about you.

With those photos, as Ekka pointed out its evident the cuts made were not judged correctly and there was only one rope point. Something positive was the climbers position was good.

The cut that Ekka has highlighted is a mistake that shouldn't be made. Ways of avoiding this is;

Good communication between the climber and an EXPERIANCED dogman to tell the climber whats going on is very important.

Using correct crane cuts, as a climber working with cranes you should know where your bar tip is and know whats required for each cut.


Having a second roping point while cutting is standard practice and shouldn't need to be elaborated on, how long does it seriously take to put your lanyard on...


A few extra points i would like to point out while I'm on the crane topic;

Don't be afraid to use cradle systems when taking horizontal branches, there is no need to "stand up limbs" with every cut!

To take the pressure of you as a climber have a couple of extra slings so after the crane has removed the last piece of wood out safely you are able to set up the next lift before the hook arrives.

Having a bigger bar is not always the best solution, i always would recommend using a rear handled saw with plenty of power. You have more control of the saw and cuts are made smoothly, quickly with less effort than the likes of a top handle saw with no chance of missing wood that needed to be cut.

DONT tie into the hook while its under load!

The last and most important thing i want to say now is also the hardest thing to do. Know whats going to happen BEFORE it happens. Know where and what that piece is going to do so you are well out of harms way. It sounds silly but i always think about whats going to happen if.... and have contingency plans worked out so in case of a worst case scenario you able to deal with it safely, its kind of like risk management but a constant updated one.
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Old 18th February 2007, 12:05 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yooper View Post
here in the U.S. up north foot ball star they had Breat Fearve (guarter back grean bay packer,,old sucks anyway) sawen wood in shorts, and tennys, big smile on his face un real!!! in an ad on tv for all to see!
sort of reminds me of the Malborough Man, they used to advertise cigs the same way.
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Old 18th February 2007, 01:48 AM   #5 (permalink)
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As seen in the last pic:

I think its needless to say that one handed straight finish cut through the wood then push off with the other hand as the saw becomes jammed is a disgrace.

One day the saw will bite...
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Old 18th February 2007, 02:25 AM   #6 (permalink)
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My thoughts on the lifting method if it had to be done...

Firstly ensure the boom tip is directly over top of load.

When setting up branch crane lifts if its not necessary to tip tie and lift then dont do it. Most cranes have two chains off the main hoist hook which can be used to cradle the branch. Make sure to set the cradle evenly buy taking raps on the branch then securing the hook normally.

Always snig the hooks on the opposite side of the cradle/load so the chain is never on the open side of the hook.

Vertical branches that are able to be tip tied are secured high so the piece is unable to flip which will undoubtedly cause the climber serious injury's. Attach two chains to the piece, one either side of one another thus spreading load on the piece and on both chains. Step cuts are the preferred cut. Once the piece is secured and the climber is in position, the climber signals to the dog-man to take the weight of the piece so the cuts are able to be made with out the saw becoming jammed.

ALWAYS make sure the hoist line is vertical or slightly away from where you are positioned so the piece being lifted is unable to swing or if it does its a small amount and away from the climber.

If a piece is stuck DONT let the crane driver try and slew and create an angle where the piece will swing once free, think ahead so this does not happen...




NOTE: With these posts i am not even scratching the surface of what a climber needs to know when dealing with cranes in tree work.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!PROFESSIONAL FORMAL TRAINING IS REQUIRED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If anyone wants professional training in New Zealand just ask me and i can organise things with the best arboricultural training institute in NZ, the Waikato Institute of Technology. A level 6 specialist crane and helicopter course is available.

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Old 18th February 2007, 02:57 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim1nz View Post

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!PROFESSIONAL FORMAL TRAINING IS REQUIRED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If anyone wants professional training in New Zealand just ask me and i can organise things with the best arboricultural training institute in NZ, the Waikato Institute of Technology. A level 6 specialist crane and helicopter course is available.

Thank you Jim.

And a credit to NZ for having such a course, I wonder if there's any other places that offer anything like that?
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Old 18th February 2007, 03:49 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I'll break this down.

Firstly single attachment point. There are times when you need to keep your lines as far away from the cut as possible, this appears to be one.
Straight through cutting. On crane dismantles this is often the best way to remove a section, let the fibres of the wood tear naturally dictating pace of movement/hinging.
one handing a saw. I seem to remember seeing plenty of vids with you ( Ekka) doing the same!!

My point is why not discus why said practices are being used not just dismiss them without a thought. I think you are putting your personal crap infront of a balanced discussion.
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Old 18th February 2007, 07:31 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Yes, a shallow notch (or scarf as you Aussies say) on the top side of the limb woud have been prefered.

Then the undercut could be made.

Then after the hinge is established the arborist could clip his saw to his saddle and prepare for a sudden escape while the limb is being lifted.

The crane operator could then gently lift the limb.

Key: If the notch was just right, then the whole "pick" would be smooth without the sawyer having to get the saw out again to cut once again to release the limb.

Thanks Eric for keeping that photo anonymous; it was a professional decision.
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Old 18th February 2007, 08:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billybong View Post
Firstly single attachment point. There are times when you need to keep your lines as far away from the cut as possible, this appears to be one.
Well, cutting like that you bet it is. However if you have a look at RC1's video, Horse chestnut felling you'll see many lifts performed with him nowhere in sight.

If you look at the underneath of the limb being cut in the picture above you'll notice some barber chairing occuring from the force the crane is exerting upwards ... I'd be hiding too and only be risking losing one arm in there not two if things went a bit crazy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Billybong View Post
Straight through cutting. On crane dismantles this is often the best way to remove a section, let the fibres of the wood tear naturally dictating pace of movement/hinging.
If the preparation cuts are made and the climber evacuates then wouldn't that have to be a superior method? Tearing and forcing is not the same as hinging and risks barber chairing. The method also may invite the climber to return to the action area to complete the cut if the crane doesn't forcibly tear it off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Billybong View Post
one handing a saw. I seem to remember seeing plenty of vids with you ( Ekka) doing the same!!
Maybe so, but I would be embarrassed to start a How to one hand a saw training program. I wont say you should do it, I'll even point out you do it and should not, and if you do it be mindful of it and make it the exception rather than rule ... complacency can bring surprising consequences. Also, we do a lot of palms, I have stood and watched many try to be efficient without one handing and cutting below shoulder/neck height ... using hand saws etc ... just doesn't work out. I can say every single person in 10 years who I have seen cut a palm down has one handed the saw ... there is not one exception. But we aren't discussing "How to cut down a palm" here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Billybong View Post
My point is why not discus why said practices are being used not just dismiss them without a thought.
Sure, we can discuss why or why not, but there's little a how to guide offers when it is so prolific in errors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Billybong View Post
I think you are putting your personal crap infront of a balanced discussion.
Absolutely not. I challenge lots of things from developers to council to other arbo's whatever. I also see it as irresponsible to show this type of thing to noobs as a how to guide. Would you favour a newspaper that printed lies?

We all have the right to know best practice and frankly as professional arborists it's time to challenge the status quo. That chunking out method is seriously dangerous. I hired a climber once who did that to 6' sections of palm log, the whole thing was out of control ... logs landing in wrong spots and tumbling ... chains getting derailed on saws. One climber down the track slipped on his spurs in the middle of one of those push off positions and chainsawed his arm ... 33 stitches. That happens coz you have to lean forward and push and could kick out.

It is certainly not something I can add to the Tree Fact Factory on crane removals. It simply wont fly and no matter how many people say the earth is round they're wrong ... it's oblate spheroid.
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Old 18th February 2007, 11:56 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billybong View Post
Straight through cutting. On crane dismantles this is often the best way to remove a section, let the fibres of the wood tear naturally dictating pace of movement/hinging.
Ok can i disagree with this then.


Straight through cutting is not the best way to remove sections because;

- The unknowns, where its going to rip, how far its going to rip, how well attached it is.

- Very importantly, it is unknown how much extra weight it adds to the lift and when the piece will release.

- Also this adds to the chance of the crane driver slewing or lifting out of line and the piece swinging into the boom or climber or what ever.
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Old 27th February 2007, 12:15 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Unfortunately I have just become aware of an accident where the illustrated has succumb to a nasty injury doing crane work.

In his own words

Quote:
OK, check the attachment, and I'll 'splain this as best as I can.

When I hooked the tubular sling at point C. I knew it would probably slide up because it was a smaller (about 8 or 9 inches) smooth trunk. This wasn't much of a concern because I originally was gonna cut it at point B where a 2or 3 foot slippage would be harmless. If it happened it would be moving towards the crane and away from ME.
Like I said, harmless.

Anywho. as I was about to cut point B, the crane operator said to come on down and cut it at the base. Normally I would do that, but that woulda required me to call a groundie over to help with a tagline so the butt wouldn't hit the fence, and they were rear-ends and elbows deep cleaning up. We were kinda rushing because we wanted to knock this job out so we could do another that day. I was just gonna cut it higher (point B) and be done with it, but it WOULD be nice to take it in one lift so I called over a groundie, set a tagline and proceeded.
It would have been an easy day.

Here's where I made my main mistake - I FORGOT/DIDN'T THINK!!!

I didn't factor in the extra weight that was gonna be loaded on the sliding sling. The second it came off stump, the sling slid up to those forks before stopping, causing the butt to shoot to the ground. MY MISTAKE was forgetting about the slip potential of the sling, and having my foot under the load PLUS having debris around the base of the tree.
I tried to jerk my leg outta the way, but I failed. It caught the outside of my left foot, a glancing blow. I really don't know how hard it hit, and it was immediately lifted. It kinda bounced when it hit and I'm sure (even though originally they hindered me) the logs and crap plus my spurs helped to keep my foot from taking the full force of the load.

Thankfully, there was no nerve/blood vessel damage of any consequence. And again, thankfully, the three broken bones (2 metatarsals and tha heel) were clean breaks that were still in position and therefore no surgery was necessary. It blew out the sides of my feet, so they sewed it up with about 40 stitches. I'm is a splint cast at the moment and on mar 9 I go back for a real cast and a check-up. THAT is when I'll know for sure what is up.

My mistakes as I see them;

1) I was under the load.

2) I completely forgot about the slipping potential. The bar was 2" too short, so I was having a hard time finishing the cut. I put myself in an akward position in an attempt to finish the cut. I also assumed it would be like any other lift - just raise and float away.

3) I was under the load.

4) I used the wrong tool (short bar) to make the cut.

5) I should have stuck to my original plan of cutting it at point B

6) I was UNDER THE LOAD!





So there you go. I feel I'm getting better every day, hence me being able to sit here for this long at the keyboard. All I've been doing since it happened is staying knocked out on meds and keeping my leg elevated. I still can't stay at the keyboard for very long.
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Old 27th February 2007, 01:53 AM   #13 (permalink)
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MB was lucky, and I'm glad he was. I hate it when guys get hurt in tree work even those working in companies that don't do any of the right things (thinking of companies I've seen) no risk assessment, no proper gear, no PPE or not wearing PPE etc... I don't think MB fits that category by a very long mark, he is an experienced climber and cutter, but as your previous posts point out Ekka we are all guilty of cutting corners, one handing the saw, only one point af attachment, getting under the load, hey its only for a moment.

The whole point of getting hold of best practices and making them your practices is to purge ourselves of those bad habits, because they will eventually result in us or someone else getting hurt or worse. Best practice do take an extra couple of minutes, and sure when you're tired and cramping in the tree you just want it done and you on the ground, but those extra two minutes that call to your groundie to check the tip of the bar is through, or the line isn't fouled, they can save you a world of pain...If you make them your good habits

Like I said I'm glad MB is ok.

SF
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