Trigger Grip Tree

John Vander

I'm looking for the propper felling procedure for felling a trigger grip shaped tree. Determining the weight of the crown vs the stump in association with the lean makes it hard to decide where to fall it, also, if the weight/lean ain't properly determined, it results in a pinch, as I once experienced before. I would greatly appreciate any advice.

__________________
"What kills a skunk is the publicity it gives itself." Abraham Lincoln

George Valentine

The correct advice would be much more accurate if you could provide some pictures of the tree in different angles...!

Thanks

Cheers
George

Eric Frei

Err, I do not understand the trigger grip shaped tree. Is it like a banana bet shape or something?

__________________

John Vander

Sorry guys, I'll get a picture up asap....wait a minute...I got the name wrong! It's a pistol grip!

__________________
"What kills a skunk is the publicity it gives itself." Abraham Lincoln

John Vander

I drew this to show you what I mean. The weight distribution between the trunk and the crown makes it hard to determine the natural lean.

__________________
"What kills a skunk is the publicity it gives itself." Abraham Lincoln

Joshua Rugg

my advice would be to pull it over with mechanical advantage.set up and leave a large hinge and wedge the back cut. get the saw out and get outta dodge. so you can come home to the wife and kids.

__________________
Stihl
MS192T 14"
MS200T 16"
MS261 16"
MS440 25"

Husqvarna 359 20"
394XP 32"

Poulan P3314 14" ( new hire/groundy saw)

John Vander

Thanx for the good advice. Yeah, there's no time to try and be a cowboy in this sort of thing. I'll be careful. Would a hand-winch be sufficient in this sort of situation? Trees not too big, say about 16' across.(I'm battling to try and think of working in inches. Only know centimeters.)

__________________
"What kills a skunk is the publicity it gives itself." Abraham Lincoln

George Valentine

Using your original drawing, I marked the position(s) of the cut(s), depending on the reach for cut option (1), that I would be performing, if I was the one to do that job.

In any case, I would use a good 16mm rigging rope to secure that tree top for a directional assisted fall, that would be your your best set-up, in my view...!

Good luck

Cheers
George

Attached Thumbnails

 

Brent Ferris

Why not just climb up, and take it down in pieces?

__________________
My business: Tree Pruning and Removals -- Strump Removals -- Advice -- Consulting -- Arborist Reports
If you want an honest opinion, call Brent Ferris...because, Trees want to Live Too !
We do great jobs, even in small yards.

Free Estimates Oakville to Oshawa - North to Bradford (Will travel further if cost of travelling covered)

Joshua Rugg

that last cut at the bottom is flawed. an over hand face cut will just close up and the tree might still sit on the stump. id use an open face cut, leave a large hinge whack the wedges and then pull it over. i almost always set a pull rope into even trees leaning in my favor.

Tree Felling

Logging eTool - Making the Cuts - Kinds of Notches

__________________
Stihl
MS192T 14"
MS200T 16"
MS261 16"
MS440 25"

Husqvarna 359 20"
394XP 32"

Poulan P3314 14" ( new hire/groundy saw)

Tony Knight

Not much good for me without dimensions and information as I can't see it,
ie
height from ground to strong curve,
height from strong curve to the start of canopy,
height from start of canopy to to top
diameter of canopy,
diameter at 24 inches above ground,
diameter at strong curve
Integrity of tree in general (especially at strong curve)
desired fall direction,
targets
type of tree ie softwood, hardwood.
dead or alive?


I just noticed a post listing the DBH 16 cm's?? Thats only roughly 7 inches?? take it down with a hand saw.

Regards

Tony

Brent Ferris

I think he meant 16 inches or 40 cm Tony.

__________________
My business: Tree Pruning and Removals -- Strump Removals -- Advice -- Consulting -- Arborist Reports
If you want an honest opinion, call Brent Ferris...because, Trees want to Live Too !
We do great jobs, even in small yards.

Free Estimates Oakville to Oshawa - North to Bradford (Will travel further if cost of travelling covered)

Tony Knight

Ahha, that makes the question more valid.

If your drawing is a acurate depiction of the tree it is heavily bias to the direction of the crown weight.
1. V scarf, large hinge and step
2. Plunge and and draw back leaving a healthy strap
3. Felling cut, tap the strap slightly below plunged cut at the back of the the tree parallel to the finish of the plunge cut for the release and exit via the 45 deg best route.

Your diagram suggests no need for wedges or mechanical assist if the desired felling direct is the same as the bias, it will release and travel under the weight of the bias upper trunk and canopy, you can knock a couple of wedges in to the plunge cut behind the hinge if you so wish.

Warning, the back release method requires a careful VTA taking into account the integrity of the trunk were you are placing the cuts. A premature release due to failures in the trunk could get you into trouble.



Cheers

Tony

Attached Thumbnails

 

derwoodii

Be mindful of tension wood realease, slab out or what some call barber chair as that curve may hide a structural fault within, that when cut can pop fast.
Leaning or unusual form trees depending upon species often have potential to do this.

There are many trick cuts to reduce this, yet being aware with escape route is 1st step to handle them Take care

Tony Knight

Yer, I've seen that one before, its a ripp'n what not to do video, drop starting saws, clearing his exit route after the scarf was set, it was forward leaner (if only slight)and a real good example for the use of a back release.
Another warning for those that don't use back releases regularly it is very easy on a tree with a less than 12 plus inches DBH to over cut towards the face on the plunge thus compromising the hinge. It takes a bit of practice to get efficient at it.
I wonder if that fella ever tried to work out why that happened.

John Vander

Tony K, this picture is just a general description of this kind of tree, and not the picture of an actual existing one. It looks like plunging it seems the safest. The trees that I usually work with is Sawtooth Oak. Hard and heavy. Thanx guys for the safe advice.

__________________
"What kills a skunk is the publicity it gives itself." Abraham Lincoln