Tree felling escape path routine

Eric Frei

Now we all know or should know that when the tree is starting to fall we exit the immediate stump area at a 45degree angle from the tree's falling direction (which should be the gunned direction of fall).

The escape or exit path should be cleared prior, nothing to trip over etc.

So, I have heard of a few variations here, I have read information which says.

1/ walk slowly backward keeping your eye on the tree

2/ walk away but keep an eye on the tree over your shoulder

3/ turn, look where you are walking and walk away to a safe distance of at least what? 4m+ perhaps then turn and look.

So, I was personally taught #3 as you dont want to trip or fall over especially carrying a chain saw. Many sites can be rocky, hilly, have other trees etc, always should look where you are walking anyway I think.

What have you been told or read and what do you think is best and why?

In this thread a guy was killed due to throw back.
Throwback killed this guy!

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Al H.

Have to agree on 3.
This would be the fastest/safest exit.
As far as I'm concerned you have plenty of time to get to your vantage point once you realize your tree has commited to fall.
Then you can turn and watch the action you've been waiting for.

Al.

newguy18

Well [ng takes a deep breath] i always heard go stage left or right of the tree as its falling,never directly behind it.As for 4 meters away,not sure about that far also its a good idea to snap your brake before fleeing the scene.Most times i'll just get a few feet off to oneside and watch it go over,after having a falling tree nearly squash me i always watch them.Steep ground is another matter,not much in my area but i've had a few run for your life scenarios.Did i take the bait?

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Therrin

Seems to me that getting away from the tree always takes priority over watching it.
You wouldn't wanna move straight behind it incase it barberchairs visciously... I saw one pic Ekka put up where the thing flew back like 15 feet or more.

i'd think something greater than 45 degs from the direction of fall would be best. if you're in too close it could bounce around and still smack you.
Definitely clear the path ahead of time, and if needs be, drop your saw and run if you get caught up or trip.

That having been said.... I've had the joyous opportunity of felling some in tight areas where there is very little escape route, or it consists of diving between fences and hurrying down small corridors. What then eh?

I'd suppose as long as you've thought out your exit route ahead of time, instead of as the thing is going over, and as long as it is as clear as possible, then you've gotta take whichever angle our route is safest for each situation.


Okay I took the bait too, how'd I do? =)

Sean Freeman

Two pics from some core texts, I was trained accordingly...
Plan the escape route, clear the escape route, use the escape route...do not stand and watch the fell get away from the stump.

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Eric Frei

Sean, but which way did they say you walk away from the 3 options?

Many text's dont spell it out, they just tell you to scram!

I tell you guys to watch out for another thing that can get you, cutting off low limbs as you are going up the trunk, the butts can spring back. I had a fiddlewood one catch me just below the kneecap as it sprung back, that bloody hurt and I was lucky no busted leg. It's the low ones that you cut and the tips hit the ground first and the butt springs back.

Oh, and guys, it's no test or bait, just clarification. I have read all 3 of the options but feel that the first two aren't the best.

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Sean Freeman

In forest harvesting where canopies inevitably touch you must be aware of the possibility of falling limbs as the tops seperate...you should have dealt with this during the initial risk assessment, if you have decided that the fell is possible and the risks manageable then all you can do is use the escape route to get out from under the danger zone.

I was trained not to walk if running was more appropriate, and no watching the tree, watch your step...also if the saw is very big (or the bar) then it gets left not carried.

JohN Dee

I think Seans posts pretty much sums it up how we attempt to follow it at work. I don't mind trying to keep an eye on the tree while I'm gunning it outta there cuz if the tree is falling my direction I'll know to start running left or right.

I pretty much tend to get outta there while the tree is still in any mans land (that first 15 - 20 degrees in its felling direction when it is really slow).

Another thing to watch is when you're in the tree and don't want ANY drop/slack on the branch or top being lowered, watch where your feet are! Position yourself/feet in the place that is going to get the least impact.

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TrevMcRev

The logger that instructed myself for the felling component at arb school believed in 1 escape route rather than 2. I think this was suggested "unofficially" as the texts we worked from all said 2.

Idea being you shouldnt have to decide where your gonna go at a crucial point in time, commit to the path and go without hesitating.

What are youre thoughts on this????

I'd go with first watching that the tree is begining to go over, then watching your step as you take the exit route, keeping one eye on the tree when safe to do so.

JohN Dee

Yeah I think I read on AS somewhere someone talking about the 1 or 2 paths debate...

Have 2 and you gotta decide which one at the crunch, have 1 - if it gets blocked you're stuffed... I usually decide my preferred 1 of the 2 before I make the cut. Never have had to go against my first choice...

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newguy18

Hey Eric,when dealing with lower limbs like that try getting out on them a little bit,maybea foot or so from the trunk and use an improved jump cut on them.That will make them drop straight down instead of springing back.

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Eric Frei

It happened when spiking up the trunk and cutting the low one as you come across them, be careful.

To go out on it, I have to get past it and above it etc, so I cut a lot off on the way up.

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newguy18

Okay try reaching outward maybe 6"-1'.What that does is makes it fall straight down instead of hinging.

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Eric Frei

Yeah, dont be slack or lazy and just think "she'll be right".

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chadd

sean defiantly summed it up quite well. in my fallers training course put on be the bc forest safety council they taught us that
u must clear at least a 10 foot trail
use a protection tree (or building depending on whats available)
observe for potential falling hazards. hangers, broken branches ect.
always have your escape route to the hide side of the tree
and that your saw doesn't matter. if u can take cool, otherwise if it is a hazard to leave it behind.

upon audits and certification test i must either show proof of or demonstrate this for every tree no matter what the size.

playfordtree

Normally i skeedaddle as quick as i can at 45degrees with one eye on the ground and one eye on the tree.


but...

If i'm wearing my Helmetcam, and want to get a good shot for my next tree video....

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Whistler

I've been doing a felling course this week. Our instructor has 20 years logging experience, and he says - Clear 2 escape paths, at least 6m long. You won't have to choose one, because you will use to closest one to the side of the tree that you happen to be on. (We're doing a lot of wedging, so keep swapping from side to side.)

When you are escaping, he recommends walking backwards 3 steps at the 45 whilst watching the tree. Put down the saw. Turn and walk away for as far as possible, but make sure you turn again to watch it hit the ground, that way you will know if you are going to cop it in the forehead.

This kind of sounds like a combination of ekkas options, 1,2,3. We can call it option 4 if you like, but i suspect that most people use a combination of them all anyway.

I think options one and two would be fine if your escape route was walking out across a freshly mowed lawn without any obtacles, but unless you are felling a tree in the middle of a football field, it could be a drama.

RandyMac

There were times when dropping a big tree into other big trees was unavoidable, debris would fly for a hundred feet, I ran like I just got caught pronging someone elses wife. Then there is the "oh crap" things were you drop everything and run for your life. A few times I have left the saw on the stump in my haste to preserve life and limb. It was a rare thing for me to see my trees hit the ground.

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RandyMac

treefeller

When dropping large trees, i tend to use the same method as Whistler, seems to be far more effective

s.kerrone

45 and stay alive,(its a saying we use in B.C.) We have to by W.C.B reg. to be at least 10' (3m) away from every tree being felled,plus go for cover and have two escape trails.

FlashD

A good friend of mine learned the escape route lesson the hard way last summer.
He was using the topside of the saw to make his back cut and because he hadn't cleared any room behind himself to escape he couldn't move backwards when the tree started to go. Luckily the tree didn't fall on him and he wasn't struck by throwback. Unluckily, the tip of the saw pinched and kicked back when the tree went over and stuck in his upper thigh. I was fortunate enough to get to hold the saw in his leg and hold him up while we waited on the EMT's to get there, get his pants cut off, and get the saw pulled out.
A falling tree isn't the only good reason to have a clear path behind yourself. I never walk up to fall a tree without observing where I'm going to go if I have to sh1t and get.

Martin

AS already said, on the BC's west coast its 45 degrees behind on the high side and 10 feet minimum from the stump. I'm not sure if we have to make 2 trails for every tree Steve but definitely on the danger trees. I have the habit of always leaving my saw (shut off usually)at a predetermined spot just as I leave the stump. As for watching the tree I always get my head up when I get to my safe spot and if things are haywire (hangups or really bad snags) and I plan on getting farther from the stump I'll stop and check over my shoulder to make sure things are going as planned. I often watch the tree hit the ground but when falling in standing timber I think its a bad habit. Everything on the ground should be taken care of and be in a safe spot. The real danger zone is up in the timber for falling limbs(which as many of us know can come back along ways, especially in tall timber) etc.

chadd

something else to remember and is so easily forgotten and causes so much damage is branches or logs on the ground already. when the tree being felled it can often kick them up creating a brutal blow.

always put safety cuts in ground cover so it breaks instead of transferring momentum into you

Martin

especially on steep ground eh? Yah when I'm talking about keeping your head up everything on the ground should be assessed and cut already, if your in the bight and something gets flipped up when the tree hits the ground... well, I don't know anyone that fast. so, good point chadd (are you on the island?)

chadd

no i'm in coquitlam, but i was working all over the coast before it went to poo. now i'm back climbing for a small outfit

Martin

dido, who were you working for

chadd

i was working for aggressive timber. now i am at bc tree services

Martin

good ol ted eh. Well, hopefully things pick up soon and we can get back to cutting timber. Cheers

M.Green - SVTS

I teach the diagonal jog to avoid a barber chair.

Before you even start the cut make sure you face the opposite direction that you are dropping the tree. Make two paths diagonally behind the direction you are dropping the tree. Your escape routes.

Put your notch, then start your backcut. never cut all the way through. It'll eventually start to go and if it doesn't use the wedges. Your tree will go and it'll have that little bit of meat left on it to prevent (not 100% prevention) a massive barber chair. When you see the tree going where you want it. You run diagonally through one of the paths you have made.

The tree will go down nice and slowly depending on size. Obviously the larger the harder it falls. If you practice this you will never have to worry about a tree falling on you.

Regards,
Matt
Saco Valley Tree Services

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