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| | #1 |
| Sappling Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Michigan
Posts: 7
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In March, I planted 30 hybrid poplars that were 4' tall and had great root systems and strong trunks (shoots), some of them double. Within a week, high winds broke one of the trunks of the best looking double-trunker. The main stem was more than a half inch thick and the two shoots were probably a third inch thick. The split shoot was 3/4 severed. Instead of clipping it off, I decided to try to save it. I wrapped duct tape around the short main trunk, then, holding the split shoot in its original position (about a 45 degree angle from the other shoot), I continued the tape upward, spanning both shoots for about 3", forming a triangle of tape whereby the healthy shoot would hopefully stabilize the severed one. In an effort to prevent the exposed wood from drying out, I soaked a small piece of paper towel with water and tucked it into the crotch of the two shoots. Between my hand-waterings and Nature's frequent rains, I believe that little wad of towel stayed wet. To my delight, the nearly severed trunk never missed a lick; none of its foliage at the time of injury died and it produced equal quantity and quality of new foliage to the other side. Today, three months later, I cut away the tape, and lo and behold, the wound has healed completely. You'd never be able to tell it had ever been so drastically injured. |
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| | #2 |
| Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Victoria, Australia
Posts: 1,152
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Should have cut it off when it broke, the tree would have been much safer in the long run. Trees don't heal, they just grow over the wound, so under all that wood is still the broken section of wood. Leaving a wet towel over the wood and keeping it wet just sounds like an open invite for bugs and diseases.
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| | #3 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Melbourne
Posts: 179
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You wasted your time and will cause a greater injury when it splits next time. have a look at this thread please explain co-dominant leader Any others that have double trunks cut one off now before they split and if they keep forming them remove the tree and plant a genetically better one. One that isn't into self destruction. Who knows what they will fall on if they don't split till they are huge. If they have included bark it is a matter of when they split not if. |
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| | #4 |
| Sappling Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Michigan
Posts: 7
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Maybe you two guys don't have hybrid willows in Australia? I know they're not revered by everyone, but for a fast growing, visual barrier or wind block, they're hard to beat. Our farm here in Michigan has several areas of lowlands which we've had tremendous luck filling in with the hybrid willow. There's more than one cross, with some being better than others, so we always start any new cuttings that we need from our originals which have been strong, magnificent trees for a quarter century. One of their attributes is the fact that they CAN sprout two or more main trunks of equal strength which provides a more solid block from ground level on up. We have yet to see one of our willows split. Some of the hardwoods right next to them have split, but not the hybrid willows. As far as the compromised wood that may be beneath the surface on this baby shoot, I expect that disease or bugs, if present, will make it spit again long before it matures, in which case, I will indeed remove it. |
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| | #5 |
| Sappling Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Michigan
Posts: 7
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BTW, glennak, thanks for the link to the very interesting co-dominant leader info. This sapling of mine has two "trunks" growing opposite each other off of the original cutting, so there's a hint of the blunt top of the original stick between them.
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