Pin Oak and Chlorosis question

Bozwell · 28th May 2011, 11:14 AM

Hi everyone! I'm new here and am looking for some help. I've tried researching this on my own and didn't have a lot of luck. I came across this site and was hoping someone here could lend assistance or at the very least - have an opinion on what I can do.

I planted 3 Pin Oaks 2 years ago that came from a grower about 5 miles from my house. Trees were about 12 ft tall and had a 36" ball. Planted these in the fall when the leaves were pretty well turned and they looked pretty good.
The following year they looked a little "weak" and the leaves were a light green. I just sort of attributed it to transplant shock.
This year they look a little bit better but not a whole lot. I suspect Chlorosis but do not know what direction to take to remedy the situation. From what I can gather, I need to increase the acid which will allow more uptake of iron nutrients to the tree. How does one go about this? Is there a special acid that needs to be used?
Any help that can be provided is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance for your replies.

Boz

Garry Brockley · 28th May 2011, 06:15 PM

Have you done a soil test?
what leads you to believe its chlorosis?
did you feed the soil before planting?
were any roots damaged on planting?
girdling roots?
Try this http://benton-franklin.wsu.edu/garde...sandShrubs.pdf

Eric Frei · 28th May 2011, 06:47 PM

From another thread:-

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eric Frei

You add sulphur (sulfur), mix powder in watering can, water in well. Makes pH go down which is more acidic, follow instructions on the packet.

I often discuss the importance of soil and mycorrhizal fungi, like here:-

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eric Frei

You can treat anthracnose with fungicide but clearly not by spraying for a tree that size.

We get it here on mango trees a lot, often when it's been really wet.

In orchards they spray.

But I believe you do not need to go that way, in fact I found this:-

Source:

You'd be better off doing a compost tea drench far out to the drip line, here's a link to Aussie style products but you'd have similar over there.

http://www.batphone.com.au/index.php...id=8&Itemid=29

The microbe arm mix and root extender is the go.

Also to be added is silica and seaweed products.

That will restore good soil biota and let this tree repair itself.

And even in this thread I still urge a holistic approach:-

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eric Frei

This thread commenced in 2007, before that paper was released. That is the thing about research and information, it is forever evolving.

Too often this place gets sap sucked with little input, good to see new information, especially from some-one else posting it up.

They injected 10L of solution into buttresses at vary concentrations.

Quote:

The concentrations were determined according
to previous research on carbohydrate applications on plants
(McLaughlin et al. 1980; Abdin et al. 1998; Iglesias et al. 2003).
Approximately 10 L (2.6 gal) of solution were injected into the
buttress roots using injection protocols established for injecting
trees for oak wilt (Appel 2001; Eggers et al. 2005). Trees
were injected during January 2005 and again in January 2006.

The irony of this treatment is that the underlying causes, just like you have stated, are not being addressed:-

Quote:

hybrid poplar which is in a very wet clay soil. Four or five years old but has grown very little. About 6 foot tall, ~1" dbh. Small leaves with a purplish color on most leaves. Growing in heavy grass pasture as a field border.

In essence you are treating a headache with aspirin but failed to diagnose the cause and remedy that. Purple leaves is often a mineral deficiency, and as noted the pH was out but the decision for sugar treatment remains.

Arborists understand the soil/root interface and value that has. Diagnosing the issue is the key. There is also the Mauget range of treatments.

Regarding the use of the title "Arborist' we have a thread and poll running, currently almost 80% say if you are not qualified you should not use the title. Here in Australia our education system is different from the monopoly ISA system over there, the certified arborist thing is an ISA qualification.

Arborist title| when can you use it

Keep us posted on your progress, but I will add that the treatment used on the diseased poincianas featured on the front page of my website did not use sugar water. The trees are still booming on today as the underlying issues were addressed and the soil amended accordingly.

---------------------------------

So I think you get the picture of the drum I am beating.

Now here's an interesting piece of research with regards to chlorosis in Pin Oaks, pay very close attention to the conclusion. The PDF is attached.

Quote:

Conclusions
Results of this study clearly demonstrate that
pin oak-infective ectomycorrhizal propagules occurred
in both an acidic and an alkaline urban soil
from under pin oaks. Ectomycorrhizae were associated
with increased iron uptake and growth of
seedlings after 2 growing seasons in an alkaline
soil, but not an acidic soil, suggesting the importance
of ectomycorrhizae in improving the iron nutritional
status of pin oak trees in alkaline soils. It
is possible that pin oak chlorosis is mitigated in
many alkaline urban soils by ectomycorrhizae. Alternatively,
one could speculate that chlorosis of
pin oak trees is more pronounced on alkaline soils
lacking ectomycorrhizal fungi. The determination
of such a pattern is possible with sampling of pin
oak roots for ectomycorrhizal assessment and
analysis of pH and other properties of associated
soils across a wide range of urban sites.

28th May 2011, 11:14 AM	#1
Bozwell I'm new here so be nice Join Date: May 2011 Location: Ohio Posts: 1	Pin Oak and Chlorosis question Hi everyone! I'm new here and am looking for some help. I've tried researching this on my own and didn't have a lot of luck. I came across this site and was hoping someone here could lend assistance or at the very least - have an opinion on what I can do. I planted 3 Pin Oaks 2 years ago that came from a grower about 5 miles from my house. Trees were about 12 ft tall and had a 36" ball. Planted these in the fall when the leaves were pretty well turned and they looked pretty good. The following year they looked a little "weak" and the leaves were a light green. I just sort of attributed it to transplant shock. This year they look a little bit better but not a whole lot. I suspect Chlorosis but do not know what direction to take to remedy the situation. From what I can gather, I need to increase the acid which will allow more uptake of iron nutrients to the tree. How does one go about this? Is there a special acid that needs to be used? Any help that can be provided is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your replies. Boz

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