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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 205
| I?ve seen huge debates on the web regarding one handed chainsaw use and am curious how one could do certain jobs without one handing it. How can a climber cut a branch and place it where he wants with both hands on the saw? If you say rope, my question then is how can you remove 200 + branches from a tree in less than an hour using a rope? I?ve been at this a fair while now and when I hear someone say don?t cut one handed I immediately think someone has just read their first safety manual or has retired and is now teaching safety. Funny how when you?re not doing this job on a production level your outlook changes. I removed three trees today and every single cut was one handed, either with my left or right whichever was fastest. Maybe I?ve just been lucky for the past 18 years. I have yet to see a climber in my area who doesn?t cut on handed. I?m curious as to your guys take on this. Anyone who hasn?t been climbing commercially with a saw for at least a few years need not answer; your opinion doesn?t matter to me with regards to this particular topic.
__________________ ![]() Trimmin' bush and caring for flowers is good 'n' all... but sometimes ya gotta let the big wood fly and pound the garden. |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Eric Frei Administrator - Brisbane L5 (Dip) Hort Cert III Arb + some Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 6,915
| Hahaha I wonder how many will tell the truth? I wonder how many will cover their ass? I wonder how many aren't faced with the problem because the trees they cut aren't the same allowing drops and rig offs of suitable proportion ... like a euc say, rig off large branches, then the top, flop the barrel. However, you have Doug Firs ... we have this Cook Island pine, similar to a Norfolk pine but lot more branches lot smaller, same sort of deal. Then we have palms, lot of fronds that are above shoulder ht in most cases to cut as you're going up the pole. This question will be answered cautiously ... many opting for the silent approach I say. An anonymous poll would be best but it still wont change what you, I or Grover does. ![]()
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 205
| Okay. What will the responses be? Mine are: I cut one handed all the time, just because I can I cut one handed when need arises I never cut one handed and I’m a liar I never cut one handed because I don’t use a saw
__________________ ![]() Trimmin' bush and caring for flowers is good 'n' all... but sometimes ya gotta let the big wood fly and pound the garden. Last edited by Streyken : 8th May 2007 at 11:06 PM. Reason: oops |
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Eric Frei Administrator - Brisbane L5 (Dip) Hort Cert III Arb + some Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 6,915
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__________________ Remember to use the "search" function, if you have answers/questions post them so everyone can benefit. Free Tree and Green Industry Link Directory Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping | Stump Grinding and Stump Removal Brisbane Brisbane Tree Care, Consultations, Developer, Tree and Arborist Reports Forum Sponsors |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 205
| This has to depend on the type of trees you do. Here if you rigged or used a hand saw to remove 200' of branches with an average diameter of 3"-4" and you'd be on the job for days, but only able to charge for one day.
__________________ ![]() Trimmin' bush and caring for flowers is good 'n' all... but sometimes ya gotta let the big wood fly and pound the garden. |
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| PDF King & Arborist Extrodinaire Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Townsville Nth Queensland & Gold Coast Sth Queensland
Posts: 1,671
| I try very hard to two hand the climbing saw, but there are many times in the tree and palm that I one hand the saw. As you say Streyken it comes about mostly from trying to get the job done quickly, there is more risk envolved, and there are (nearly) always other ways of making the cut two handed. Step or snap cutting is often a safer method in tree and palm but it does slow you down, as I'm writing this the words of the forestry examiner who trained us in advanced manual felling (production) are ringing in my ears...he taught myself Tim and Steve the split back cut (or quarter cut) the safest felling method there is. He would have no time for my excuses for choosing speed over safety. ![]()
__________________ Sean ![]() Trees are poems that earth writes upon the sky, We fell them down and turn them into paper, That we may record our emptiness. - Kahlil Gibran |
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| Over mature heritage tree Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
Posts: 734
| Mmmm.... Always an interesting topic this one. I think the real danger with 1 handing comes from not knowing when it is really dangerous. I've seen climbers put themself at huge risk doing this without knowing it, thinking all is fine. To me, there's an acceptable time to do it and and an unacceptable time to do it. (One is when worksafe come by )Seriously, cutting a branch you dont need to hold is usually ok. I think cutting a left facing lateral holding the branch with your left hand and cutting with the right or a total vice versa of this is usually ok. Its when you cross over, or cut vertical branches/stems that you face the massively increased risk of cutting yourself when the falling weight of a branch maybe in the wrong direction drags your arm across the saw. This is the time to either rope it, step cut/snap/throw it, or sometimes i attach a sling and hold it to bring my arm/hand well away from the saw. But those that just cut away at anything with 1 hand just coz ya can with a tophandle saw are asking for it. These people are the ones behind the injuries that are so common in this industry. If you work like this its just a matter of time before it happens. |
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| Eric Frei Administrator - Brisbane L5 (Dip) Hort Cert III Arb + some Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 6,915
| I think it's also damned dangerous when new/shy/inexperience/uncertain/worried person starts the cut with the saw at low revs ... enter that cut with a screaming saw, full pelt, so it cuts not slides or bogs etc.
__________________ Remember to use the "search" function, if you have answers/questions post them so everyone can benefit. Free Tree and Green Industry Link Directory Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping | Stump Grinding and Stump Removal Brisbane Brisbane Tree Care, Consultations, Developer, Tree and Arborist Reports Forum Sponsors |
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| | #13 (permalink) |
| Sappling Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: england
Posts: 13
| I use saws one handed quite alot like when if your stretchin for a limb to do a step cut on a reducion i put the saw down reach out and break it off.unless like monday when it was way to windy and every thing had to be held and cut or roped...but thats pretty rare. some times ill make 4 step cuts on differnt branches put the saw down and snap off each branch individually and chuck them in the target zone,speeds thing up a bit! |
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| | #14 (permalink) | |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 205
| Quote:
I'm not talking about recklessly swinging the saw out of control either; I've never come close to cutting myself in the last 18 years by cutting branches one-handed. <edit>And snap cuts don't work here on Douglas-fir or alder - the branches will pop off as soon as you touch the tension wood.</edit>
__________________ ![]() Trimmin' bush and caring for flowers is good 'n' all... but sometimes ya gotta let the big wood fly and pound the garden. Last edited by Streyken : 9th May 2007 at 02:31 PM. Reason: added | |
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| | #15 (permalink) | |
| Over mature heritage tree Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Sydney
Posts: 940
| Quote:
not wanting to offend,just think honestly about how you use your saws,what saw for what job,repositioning for greater control while cutting,and if you answer honestly,..TreeCo hits me as doing this..regardless of ridcule. | |
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| | #16 (permalink) |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 205
| TrevMcRev, your observation regarding tophandle saws is right on, very easy to get complacent with one of these in my opinion. I know many climbers swear by them, but I tried one for a week, just to give it a fair shake, and that was it. I could see getting cut by one of these very easily. Maybe I just needed to give it more time though.
__________________ ![]() Trimmin' bush and caring for flowers is good 'n' all... but sometimes ya gotta let the big wood fly and pound the garden. |
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| | #17 (permalink) |
| Over mature heritage tree Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 750
| For my climber saws I would say the same for myself as what TreeCo said, about 75% of the time I use two hands, but in that 25% of the time I don't I watch exactly what I'm cutting and how it is going to react with my bar and chain and tend to keep it as far away from my body as possible. As for the other saws I work with 99% of the times both my hands are on that saw. It is very important to know your saw, bar and chain and how they are going to react with every cut you put in. The minute you under estimate it or become compacant it's gunna whack you good.
__________________ Climber with slow climbing speed, must make up with mighty chainsaw roar. Free Tree and Green Industry Link Directory Red : Green : Blue |
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