How do you spikeless climb big palms?

matshute

I like the photo. I tried something similar climbing large trees in Costa Rica when we couldn't get a line in due to under story vegetation. I must say I wasn't much good at it, probally due to the trunk diameter though.

I guess 2 strops, 1 for each foot and side strop could be worth a go.

Ekka

Hey Bob,

I got the link for Grigory's take down video, now watch this guys, the bloke doesn't use spikes and he blocks down no worries.

http://www.udal.ru/udalvideo35.wmv (9 min, 35 Mb)

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StrictlyPalms

How can that be Russia? There's no snow

Great vid though.

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B rad

As Quercus mentioned, use your throwline to set a high anchor point. The method he describes is ideal for species such as the Phoenix canariensis palms (tall & fat). You can use your preferred ascent technique to reach your anchor pulley and this will allow you to remove approximately 2/3 of the fronds on one side. Descend, shift your anchor pulley to the tail end of the anchor rope, reset and ascend to remove the remaining number of fronds. Using a portawrap as the ground anchor allows you to remove most of the slack in the anchor rope as well as providing a tie-off point.

Contract climbing in Darwin a few years back involved a lot work with Carpentaria acuminata palms (tall & skinny with trunks as hard as steel). I would use the same method as described above however, the ascent was always backed up with my (rope) polebelt double wrapped/ choked against the trunk, in case of overhead failure. Upon reaching the top, I would reset the anchor point with a double wrapped cambium saver that could be retrieved from the ground. I would use this high point to work on as many surrounding palms as possible.
On one particular job, I was assisted by another climber familiar only with with the spurs and polebelt technique. I watched him ascend to the top and whilst reaching for his saw, his weight momentarily shifted - spurs kicked out
and he was back on the ground in a matter of seconds. His natural instinct was to grab the trunk of the palm and in doing so, took (his) bark off inside both elbows and both knees on the way down.

You could familiarise yourself with this technique by trying the Adjustable False Crotch (Tree Climbers Companion pg. 50).

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matshute

Thanks Rad.

How suitable do you think large palms could be for anchoring ziplines to? Have thought about possible using 2 steel guys with ground anchors.

I cant find out much info on stability of palms. This would be with the intention of utilising a private forest reserve in Africa so it can generate tourist income rather than getting the chop.

Oldtimer

Here is your solution to climb palms without using spikes.
This is an arborist company in Italy that uses this system to do the prunnig jobs without harming the ornamental palm trees they care for.

In bicicletta sulle palme

They use something called a Bicycle (bicicletta)
This is a good site with a lot of info for Arborists and training for Recreational Climbers.

MTS247

i recall somthing we learnt at uni, it was a rope tied to your feet, and a pole strap, both set up to "grip" to palm, the foot one was linked to your arm so you can lift the rope up easyer, all you do is work your way up the tree like a caterpiller, i forget the exact details so i will look into it.

Pigdog

I still believe those climbing tree stands would work nicely on a limbless tree! Just because they say they are for hunting doesn't mean one can't carry a chainsaw up instead of a rifle. And heck you can even take a break by sitting down when the notion strikes you!
If I can get up and down in one of those without turning upside down, you fellows should find those a breeze to use without breaking a sweat!

arborjockey

I HAVE BEEN LOOKING FOR THOSE CLIMBERS FOREVER.. They use them exclusively at the hotels in hawaii.


But I think you guys are really overthinking this one come on lets bring it back to the basics B.C. era climb

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B rad

The fire lookout trees - Eucalyptus diversicolor (karri) there are three of them in the south west of W.A. that are open for the public to climb. Heights of 51m, 61m, & 68m with platforms along the way.

StrictlyPalms

Baumsteigger?t "Baumvelo", Typ BVS mit Stahlb?ndern




$2500.00 USD or so. very similar to the Italian one.

The only problem I see with them is Palmtrees that haven't had all the old husks removed.

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Ekka

$2500 USD is what I thought, no wounds in the palm, where's the satisfaction then.

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quercus

hehe Ekka you should change your log in name to palmslayer!!!

What do you think of the device? Any good?

Ekka

How do you get past the head when you have to get the big pods out? Many times you have to climb up into the head.

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I found a few articles about the Baumvelo (tree bicycle) They can be "Parked" at a desired spot and the climber can then ascend via other means, or work their way along a lateral as needed. At $2500.00 US I'm actually thinking about it. I have no bucket truck, renting man lifts gets expensive, and you cant always get them into yards. I think as long as the tree is bare, or the Client wants the husks removed it would be worthwhile.

Here in Florida it's not too difficult to sell H/O's on cleaning the palms. Carpenter ants LOVE setting up shop in the dead husks.


One article:

The Swiss tree bicycle or ?Baumvelo? is a device for climbing tall straight trees which are branch-free to the live crown. It is lighter to transport than sectional ladders but heavier than climbing irons. It does no damage to the tree. It is suitable for use on stems with diameters ranging from 30 ? 80 cm (Yeatman and Nieman 1978). Olesen (1972) found it very useful for climbing pine trees in Mexico. In the UK it was found particularly useful for conifer species with large cones e.g. Pinus, Picea, Pseudotsuga, in which the collector seeds to move from branch to branch to pull off the cones, rather than remaining for long in the same part (Seal et al. 1965). Its use in that country is now, however, restricted mainly to research collections, since the increased area of mature plantations allows bulk seed collections to be made easily from felled trees and ladders are more convenient for seed orchard collections.

4.12
1. Stirrup
2. Foot support
3. Vamp strap
4. Instep strap
5. Strap tightener
6. Support
7. Rubber pad 4.12 Tree bicycle, tree gripper or baumvelo, showing parts. (H. Schneebeli & Co.) 8. Hinge head
9. Hinge pin
10. Coil Spring
11. Leaf Spring
12. Holding Device
13. Locking Lever
14. Steel Band
4.13

4.13 Tree bicycle in use, with safety harness, helmet and ropes. (British Forestry Commission)

The tree bicycle contains two separate units, one for each foot. Each unit consists of an arm (longer in the upper, shorter in the lower unit) to which is fixed a rubber supporting block which rests against the trunk. The lower end of the arm carries a stirrup or pedal with strap and quick release clips, which holds the climber's foot. The upper end is attached to a steel band forming a circle of adjustable diameter around the stem. The tree bicycle is used in conjunction with safety harness or belt, support chain or strap, safety line, safety clips or carabiners and nylon ropes.

Operation of the tree bicycle is well described by Seal et al. (1965) and Yeatman and Nieman (1978). The steel band should not fit too tightly round the stem, which would hinder them sliding upwards. They will grip properly as long as the toe of the climber's boot does not touch the trunk when his full weight is on the stirrup; when that happens it is necessary to unclamp, shorten the loop and reclamp the band on each foot in turn. After securing the bands round the base of the tree, the climber fits his feet into the stirrup, closes the quick-release clips and fastens the straps. He also passes his safety strap or chain round the stem, adjusting its length in accordance with stem taper. The climber ascends, putting his weight alternately on one or the other stirrup and lifting in turn the free foot to raise the loosened band. He pauses to adjust the bands, one at a time, to allow for the taper of the tree. Obstructing branches must be pruned flush with the stem as they are encountered.

The climber continues to ascend until the upper steel band meets the lower living branches of the crown. He then reaches into the crown to fit a nylon safety rope to hold the safety line and proceeds to ?park? the tree bicycle. The essential operation is to tighten the lower band of the bicycle so that it grips the stem tightly even when there is no weight on it; there is then no risk of the bicycle slipping down the stem out of the climber's reach. The climber opens the ankle clips on both stirrups, frees his feet from the straps, unhooks his safety strap and climbs into the crown.

The tree bicycle provides an extremely safe means of climbing straight branchless trees without damaging them and is lighter and more portable than sectional ladders. Some practice is needed but most men become competent and quick in its use within a few days. Its main disadvantages are the cost, the fact that its use is limited to a certain range of diameters and that, unlike ladders and climbing irons, it requires the bole to be pruned of branches all round the circumference up to the living crown (Robbins et al 1981). Where regular climbing of the same trees is foreseen, however, as in seed stands or seed orchards, the cost of thorough initial pruning is fully justified. It is advisable to work always with two tree-bicycles within call of each other, because a man in difficulties on a tree at a height greater than can be reached by a ladder can only be reached on another tree-bicycle (Seal et al. 1965), or by climbing irons.
4.14

4.14 Hand picking Larix cones in Britain. Note use of safety line and anchorman and tree bicycle ?parked? at base of crown. (British Forestry Commission)

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arborjockey

The guy I talked to said $2500 and the parts are exp. as well. he said their high maitnence. For 2500 wonder if that saddle and chain flipline come with it