free climbing how often do you do it?

OutofMytree

For the poor fools who follow the first link, go directly to page 7. If you read the first 6 pages you will need a triple espresso to wake you up. The writer makes a valid point about sway and tall sticks when you remove the crown and knotahippie emphasises that point with the old "dumb arborist" clip from youtube.

Two quick points.

First, the author of the botanical paper has no idea which end of his spurs go where. The amount of wind drift u get in any decent stick makes "cutting a notch through the canopy" insanely difficult to work with. He says the arborist may get a few hangers... try every single drop. The only reason you will ever get extreme sway is if you are too lazy or too cowardly to climb into the skinny stuff and remove the crown in a small enough piece. Which leads to my second point.

I am sick and tired of people using the "dumb arborist" video clip to bash tree work in general. Go back and watch the clip again. This arborist has flipline on, life line on, hard hat on, (temporarily....). He is using a neat piece of gear to hold the load line away from the cut (dunno what you call it), he deliberately leaves himself a stub for a handhold, he hangs his saw up nice and quick and then grabs the stub with both hands. This guy is a pro. Unfortunately he makes a mistake and it gets caught on film. It's a pity there is no record of who he is. I would like to send him an email, if only to ask where he got that neat bit of rigging gear from!

newguy18

Should we start another thread about dynamic loading then?I don't really worry about sway.On most trees i'll purposely leave a stub so i can tie in with my climbline while i'm topping the tree.On some smaller trees[2"-6"diameter]I'll leave a couple limbs to help reduce sway.

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old schooler

Knotahippie

Thanks Outa...you're right about the hangers, that part sucks!

I should be more clear at first...I use this removal tech. for to dead/damaged trees (sketchy trees/stems)

When I chunk rounds thru that corner slot I was talkin' about, I leave alot of branches on the chunk that is falling, to slow it down.

Then I feel a little more comfortable chunkin' bigger pieces at the top.

I also do all of my own lowering...no groundsman to rely on...

...So far, I've never had a problem gettin' one of these hung up (lucky)

Cowardly? No.

Got stuff to do tomorrow? Yes.


About the "dumb arborist"?

He looks like more of a pro bull rider than a pro tree dude.

A black eye from bein' a bad a## is one thing, a black eye from work today would suck...

tallliooo1

only small trees , mainly toparies where theres no highpoint or being attached causes more probs than it solves , however always wear harness with steelcored flip so I can hook in when need to ,

second-gen_monkey

because i'm practicing i take the time to freeclimb the trees at the shop (aka grandpas) so i have a feel for it, after all didnt we all free climb as kids. there has been an occasion where i needed to free climb to a good spot on a banian because it was not accessable mechanically (via pollcat or bucket truck) and lift my gear up (i had my harness on but didnt use the lanyard as it was way too short to go around the trunk.) i also never use spikes, i guess i'm paranoid about introducing an opertunity for an infection or pests but i feel better about it personally. once i am in a tree and ready for saws/clippers/poll tools im on a three point system with a climb line, safety line and my lanyard always clipped when stationary. because of the nature of the yards down here (they tend top be rather small 1 or less acres) i have often gone straight from a tree to the roof and back. in these cases i always have a line set in the tree first so i'm not exactly free climbing but i do rely on my own super monkey powers to avoid needeing the line ( falling, i mean).


(why is there no "hate palms" smilie? just askin)

Joshua Rugg

the only trees i free climb are really thick ones like plumeria and ficus. anything over 15 feet my climbing gear comes out.

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Stihl
MS192T 14"
MS200T 16"
MS261 16"
MS440 25"

Husqvarna 359 20"
394XP 32"

Poulan P3314 14" ( new hire/groundy saw)

Garry Brockley

i only put my gear on for trees that i have to take my feet off the floor anything else i use a pole saw

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Lee Pelley

Hi Big,That is precisely the problem with many "learning experiences:" You learn what the person teaching you knows, and no more. Too often, this includes truly stupid practices that the person "teaching" does as simply bad habits. The person "learning" has no idea that whatever practice is dangerous.
There are many people "teaching" tree work who have just been ungodly lucky.
There are bold tree workers and old tree workers. There are never old, bold tree workers
Leef

Branching Out TreeCare

I always have a flip line and lifeline on me when I climb ...always . When I was a bit younger I used to free climb on spikes for the acsent but then tied in when I encountered the first branch. Obviously, I only use spikes on tree removals. And only on species where you can get good gaf penetration.
I'm the only NZer to ever hold the Australasian Pole climbing title ( way back in ( 1998 )....ever since its always been won by you amazing Aussies.
I wonder how many people will admit to freeclimbing using spikes.?

Joshua Rugg

i used to free climb the first 10-20 feet on coconut palms then clip my lanyard in. i did it until i lost my grip once and fell backwards.that was the last time im ever doing that.

__________________
Stihl
MS192T 14"
MS200T 16"
MS261 16"
MS440 25"

Husqvarna 359 20"
394XP 32"

Poulan P3314 14" ( new hire/groundy saw)