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| | #1 (permalink) |
| I'm new here so be nice Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 2
| I've done a lot of pruning work on smaller trees. I never had the need to use spurs because there are many more qualified people out there than me to remove a tree. But regarding spurs, how would you explain to someone how to climb with them? Do you keep your feet to the side of the tree like a ladder or close in? Do you jam your points in or just step on them? And what about the wobble factor? Do you hang on with your knees? And how far back should I be leaning into my lanyard when I stop? Thanks for your patience in explaining this mundane detail. ![]() |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Eric Frei Administrator - Brisbane L5 (Dip) Hort Cert III Arb + some Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 6,915
| Watch some of the videos in that section. Also, this is a 120mb mpg video I shot showing some of what you are talking about along with rigging. http://www.palmtreeservices.com.au/video/2gums.mpg Also on this link is a 1.7mb document same. http://www.worldagroforestry.org/tre...th%20Spurs.pdf
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Albany, New York
Posts: 132
| Ekkas post is a great start. As you can see in his vid your knees should be out slightly. Your feet should be normal width or extra stress will be put on your knees(theres already enough).Think like an old western cowboy walking with chaps on. I would jab the spurs in to your confidence level. On a softer tree if they go in to far it will be harder to get out. Down the road as you do more youll sink them less and walk up the tree. Be sure to have good purs that are sharp with the proper angle and they will do most of the work. |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| Eric Frei Administrator - Brisbane L5 (Dip) Hort Cert III Arb + some Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 6,915
| LOL With all your wonderful bits of machinery do you still start from the bottom up? Crane lifts to the top are premium. ![]() They say, your feet should be about shoulder width apart. You know, we got these bugger palms called cuban royals and queen. But more so the cuban royals. You have to stab the buggers hard with ya spikes and when in dont worm around too much. I suppose, a little like climbing a dead tree with no bark. It will take some time to feel confident with them but SHARP is very important. I have those alloy caddie pads on mine, I swear by them, better than the Geckos and all. Get good pads, they'll help your knees and confidence. I had these leather ones once, the shaft of the climbers would twist their way around to the back of your calf muscles. The bottom of the climbers that goes in the arch of your feet would then twist up making life real uncomfortable. Good pads, good boots, sharp spikes and you'll be fine.
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Albany, New York
Posts: 132
| Good point about the pads. For years I had poor pads and with my skinny legs they would twist. I have the leather Euc pads and they have been great. I do still climb from the bottom up sometimes. If I dont Ill need to get a bigger crane to handle my weight gain. ![]() ![]() |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Eric Frei Administrator - Brisbane L5 (Dip) Hort Cert III Arb + some Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 6,915
| So ... you saying I need a 100 ton'r! ![]() ![]() ![]()
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