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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Eric Frei Administrator - Brisbane L5 (Dip) Hort Cert III Arb + some Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 6,943
| I've drawn a diagram of this, I recall seeing it somewhere. Does anyone know anything about it? I've searched but come up with blanks, I know it was a legitimate notch but cannot find anything on it. ![]()
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Banned Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 112
| Never seen that in application. I can see it jumping a little from base of tree not sure why this would benefit. Gonna be harder to control because it will act more like a snap cut than a hinge. Why do you want to know about it?? |
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| The Tree World Bandit Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Lancaster, Ca
Posts: 1,273
| Considering how much more difficult it would be to cut correctly, what would be the benefit of using a box notch like this? Are there any? I agree with Treelore, looks like the leading top edge on that notch could knee right down into the lower and kick it up.
__________________ Ken Fessia I.T.S.A. Tree Service (661) 916-4703 |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| Eric Frei Administrator - Brisbane L5 (Dip) Hort Cert III Arb + some Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 6,943
| Depending how wide you cut it just like a normal notch it shouldn't jump anymore. As far as snap cut goes the hinge works no different to a Humboldt. Just seen it around, want to know the history of it.
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| The Tree World Bandit Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Lancaster, Ca
Posts: 1,273
| Wouldn't you have to cut the first two level, and then plunge to box it out? Sounds like more stress and wear for the tip of your bar if ya used these box cuts much. Anyhow, what are the benefits to box cutting it?
__________________ Ken Fessia I.T.S.A. Tree Service (661) 916-4703 |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Over mature heritage tree Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
Posts: 734
| Box scarf. I've done it. Have some photos of the stump but will have to scan em. Works the same hinge wise. Main benefit being that you can fell a tree wider than more than double the bar you have. You plunge the vertical cut first, with the side benefit of feeling out decy in the stem. Then the face cuts can be done normal from both end and then you can use the tip and run across the face of the tree to complete it. Also after plunging & cutting from both ends the middle can be knocked out with an axe. |
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Live Oak Florida home of the crapiest trees you will ever see.
Posts: 2,682
| looks simaler to a notch in Jerry's book,he call it the block out humboldt but after that part is done he puts a snipe on the stump to help it slide.Good for big trunks.
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| Banned Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 112
| Still fail to see the benefit. What can you possibly gain from this that you can't from quarter cutting or plunge cutting or back cutting. To me it would seem the hinge would be far more loose and the control far less.Don't get it!! |
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Live Oak Florida home of the crapiest trees you will ever see.
Posts: 2,682
| Actually the hinge works about the same if not better,because of the gap it can guide over further before breaking off of the stump.Kinda like a wide face cut with a gap.
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| | #12 (permalink) |
| The Tree World Bandit Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Lancaster, Ca
Posts: 1,273
| I think if the vertical gap were a bit taller below the hinge it'd look right. As to it being loose... as long as the proper hinge dynamics are still in play... the depth of the scarf and notch, the level of the back cut and the level of the hinge, it should act like a normal hinge. It looks like the facets of the box don't really come into play with the hinge, but rather the dynamic of how the spar reacts to the stump when the hinge lets go. I've got some smaller dead stuff to drop today, I guess I'll check that out. Any reason that a small-scale facsimile wouldn't work the same as with a much larger tree? Pics if I can find a card that works in the camera.
__________________ Ken Fessia I.T.S.A. Tree Service (661) 916-4703 |
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| | #13 (permalink) |
| The Tree World Bandit Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Lancaster, Ca
Posts: 1,273
| The first box cut was just a tad too deep, the second turned out alright. It's funny, i put a hinge but the way it broke off was really clean. I actually really liked how it lets go when it separates, just pops off and and out enough that it never even touches the stump on the way down. Very easy, very nice... not violent or rough at all. Can't wait to try it on something BIGGER! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
__________________ Ken Fessia I.T.S.A. Tree Service (661) 916-4703 |
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| | #14 (permalink) |
| Eric Frei Administrator - Brisbane L5 (Dip) Hort Cert III Arb + some Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 6,943
| In this diagram I have opened up the box a lot. Now imagine the box so wide that it clears itself. Talk about superior anti stump kickback if felling up hill. ![]() Also it would allow the tree to sit right down, no hinge breaking, lay that tree down all the way. ![]()
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| | #15 (permalink) | |
| Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Live Oak Florida home of the crapiest trees you will ever see.
Posts: 2,682
| Quote:
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| | #16 (permalink) |
| Over mature heritage tree Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 751
| I think I read in my chainsaw manual, that they used to use the box cut because the OLDER chainsaws didn't like the diagonal cutting angles needed for a conventional scarf and this box cut was much more productive on the saws behalf... As soon as I bloody relocate my chainsaw manual I'll post up pics.. Heya Therrin, wheres the close up pic of the hinge after it broke off?
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