Split backcut

Sean Freeman · 19th February 2007, 08:32 PM

Here's a group of photos showing the very simple and very safe felling technique called the split backcut, or 1/4 cut.
It was taught to me and the two other guys in the firm I work for by a forestry trainer when we completed our tickets for advanced felling of dangerous trees. When I finally track down the shots from that training done in State forests I'll post them cause I think they're pretty cool.

Any way here's the steps for the split back cut: 1 assess the tree to be felled, used a palm cause that's what we did today.

DSCF7775.JPG

2 Make the face cut as normal aimed in the direction you intend the tree to fall (since the palm is as good as vertical no adjusted gun here..see EKKA's video for that one)

DSCF7780.JPG

3 Then make the first back cut only cutting into the tree 1/2 way across the back, effectively cutting 1/4 of the timber behind the face cut. You leave the normal 10% hinge wood (since the palm was sound with hardly any lean) you watch the bar of the saw all the time to ensure you don't cut through the hinge!!

DSCF7781.JPG

4 A wedge is driven into the back cut hard

DSCF7783.JPG

5 Then moving around the back of the tree begin cutting the second part of the back cut matching the first cut accurately, and cutting in to match the hinge wood across the width of the tree.

DSCF7785.JPG

DSCF7786.JPG

6 The tree is then sitting on the wedge (or wedges) and can be felled under perfect control by driving the wedges.

DSCF7788.JPG

Close ups of the stump and hingewood (me thinks Tim left more wood on one side, perhaps it was leaning slightly to the left)

DSCF7789.JPG

Oh yeah, someone has to dock the trunk and head and I'm taking photos so its not going to be me

DSCF7791.JPG

SF

Ekka · 19th February 2007, 09:02 PM

Hey

That's the 1/4 cut.

I got a close up video of that, second video in the 1st post this thread ....

1/4 cut cocos drop

TreeCo · 19th February 2007, 09:10 PM

Great technique. On large trees I've done a plunge cut in the center of the back cut and inserted a wedge, and then proceded to cut one side and then the other. It gets the wedge right in the middle.

Sean Freeman · 19th February 2007, 09:16 PM

I don't mind what we call it I just want more guys to use it. The control and safety factor using this technique is extremely high. We use it on trees with a lean, trees with problem tops, trees with termite infestation really big trees, we use it all the time.

The best parts of this technique with larger trees is it makes you reassess the fell as you proceed, we all tend to fall into the trap of rushing things or working on auto pilot, both can be fatal. It gives you much more control of the timing at the end of the fell too which I really like; one more check before we drive the tree over.

I get really shocked seeing the lack of any technique in the fells some companies undertake.

SF

yooper · 19th February 2007, 09:24 PM

Back in the day, when i did alot of hard wood timber cutting, umm 9 10 years or so ago, that is the way i was always tought to fell trees ,to avoid hang ups. and proper control, i still use it today on many trees , our timber manigment did eventually force us into boar cutting all are trees to avoid splitting and fiber ripping, for the log material, i still use bore cutting today also,bye wedging on both sides, also very effective for control of the tree.

Ekka · 19th February 2007, 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TreeCo

Great technique. On large trees I've done a plunge cut in the center of the back cut and inserted a wedge, and then proceded to cut one side and then the other. It gets the wedge right in the middle.

Yep, got that video too! lol

http://www.treeworld.info/showthread...=1491#post1491

Quote:

Originally Posted by boa07

I get really shocked seeing the lack of any technique in the fells some companies undertake.

SF

Haha, I'm a bloody good fella.

You ought to see some of the close calculated shots I pulled off .... those clinometers are darned accurate.

Quote:

Originally Posted by yooper

our timber manigment did eventually force us into boar cutting all are trees to avoid splitting and fiber ripping, for the log material, i still use bore cutting today also,bye wedging on both sides, also very effective for control of the tree.

Bore cut strap release ideal for forward leaners. Can get tricky if ya bars too short... that's when you have to bore both sides and you can also relieve the centre of the tree by boring in the front.

yooper · 19th February 2007, 10:51 PM

I have cut many back leaners with a very tight wedge on each side tward the back of my face notch, or side leaning with one wedge, with the bore cut tword the adj side. although i do perfer to later method, all in all a rope is always a good insurence and cheap too,

Ekka · 19th February 2007, 11:03 PM

Yooper, you gotta get pics when ya doing stuff like that.

Tomorrow I gotta fell this ugly fern tree, they're called a Mexican fern tree Schizolobium parahyba, the customer to keep cost down said we can drop it in her garden ... too bad for other plants. They're brittle as buggery and shatter when they hit the deck. It's got a decent leader going out over the house so we have to evac the owner in case the proverbial hits the fan.

Man I like the good jobs.

Sean Freeman · 19th February 2007, 11:30 PM

Good luck Ekka, Schizolobium parahybahorrible brittle things, TD's definately helicopter job or 100T crane

SF

yooper · 19th February 2007, 11:47 PM

Well its nuthen i would do to avoid hitting somones personal property or any thing of value but if i know if i can flop it into a gravel driveway or rather not into the woods, flop it into the yard, i guess it all depends on the situation, iv had alot of practuce using the bore cut in the logging industry...many days cuting trees all day long 30 to 40 a day dont know never counted.... all biger ones over 28 inch dbh and over(the ones the machines would not cut economacly whithout splitting the but end)
but ya somtimes it didnt work the way ya wanted it to, in the woods i would never us it on a big tree nor a small too close to a house i do like the insurence of the rope. i dont take chances when i do gat a time i will take some photos times are slow now for me beeing winter dont get to many jobs this time of year.

Sean Freeman · 20th February 2007, 02:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ekka

Bore cut strap release ideal for forward leaners. Can get tricky if ya bars too short... that's when you have to bore both sides and you can also relieve the centre of the tree by boring in the front.

This wasn't a heavy leaner but too big for the bar we had back then on the 046. Tree is Nauclea orientalis Leichhardt tree, removed due to numerous large branch drops onto entrance to kindy part of State School.

Discussing the lack of length,
DSCF2985.JPG

Plunging the face,
DSCF2986.JPG

nice narrow slot,
DSCF2987.JPG

cutting 1/2 the backcut,
DSCF2989.JPG

cutting the other 1/2,
DSCF2997.JPG

Steve hitting the wedges,
DSCF3008.JPG

Away she goes,
DSCF3011.JPG

Pretty good looking stump,
DSCF3014.JPG

Not long after that job we got 090 with a really big bar, not because we wanted to destroy big trees just that the kind of problem jobs we get big saws sometimes make the job easier.

SF

19th February 2007, 08:32 PM	#1 (permalink)
Sean Freeman PDF King & Arborist Extrodinaire Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Townsville Nth Queensland & Gold Coast Sth Queensland Posts: 1,645	Split backcut Here's a group of photos showing the very simple and very safe felling technique called the split backcut, or 1/4 cut. It was taught to me and the two other guys in the firm I work for by a forestry trainer when we completed our tickets for advanced felling of dangerous trees. When I finally track down the shots from that training done in State forests I'll post them cause I think they're pretty cool. Any way here's the steps for the split back cut: 1 assess the tree to be felled, used a palm cause that's what we did today. DSCF7775.JPG 2 Make the face cut as normal aimed in the direction you intend the tree to fall (since the palm is as good as vertical no adjusted gun here..see EKKA's video for that one) DSCF7780.JPG 3 Then make the first back cut only cutting into the tree 1/2 way across the back, effectively cutting 1/4 of the timber behind the face cut. You leave the normal 10% hinge wood (since the palm was sound with hardly any lean) you watch the bar of the saw all the time to ensure you don't cut through the hinge!! DSCF7781.JPG 4 A wedge is driven into the back cut hard DSCF7783.JPG 5 Then moving around the back of the tree begin cutting the second part of the back cut matching the first cut accurately, and cutting in to match the hinge wood across the width of the tree. DSCF7785.JPG DSCF7786.JPG 6 The tree is then sitting on the wedge (or wedges) and can be felled under perfect control by driving the wedges. DSCF7788.JPG Close ups of the stump and hingewood (me thinks Tim left more wood on one side, perhaps it was leaning slightly to the left) DSCF7789.JPG Oh yeah, someone has to dock the trunk and head and I'm taking photos so its not going to be me DSCF7791.JPG SF

19th February 2007, 09:02 PM	#2 (permalink)
Ekka Eric Frei Administrator - Brisbane L5 (Dip) Hort Cert III Arb + some Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane Posts: 6,869	Hey That's the 1/4 cut. I got a close up video of that, second video in the 1st post this thread .... 1/4 cut cocos drop __________________ Remember to use the "search" function, if you have answers/questions post them so everyone can benefit. Free Tree and Green Industry Link Directory Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping Brisbane Tree Care, Consultations and Arborist Reports Forum Sponsors

19th February 2007, 09:16 PM	#4 (permalink)
Sean Freeman PDF King & Arborist Extrodinaire Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Townsville Nth Queensland & Gold Coast Sth Queensland Posts: 1,645	I don't mind what we call it I just want more guys to use it. The control and safety factor using this technique is extremely high. We use it on trees with a lean, trees with problem tops, trees with termite infestation really big trees, we use it all the time. The best parts of this technique with larger trees is it makes you reassess the fell as you proceed, we all tend to fall into the trap of rushing things or working on auto pilot, both can be fatal. It gives you much more control of the timing at the end of the fell too which I really like; one more check before we drive the tree over. I get really shocked seeing the lack of any technique in the fells some companies undertake. SF Last edited by Sean Freeman : 19th February 2007 at 09:16 PM. Reason: spelling!

19th February 2007, 11:03 PM	#8 (permalink)
Ekka Eric Frei Administrator - Brisbane L5 (Dip) Hort Cert III Arb + some Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane Posts: 6,869	Yooper, you gotta get pics when ya doing stuff like that. Tomorrow I gotta fell this ugly fern tree, they're called a Mexican fern tree Schizolobium parahyba, the customer to keep cost down said we can drop it in her garden ... too bad for other plants. They're brittle as buggery and shatter when they hit the deck. It's got a decent leader going out over the house so we have to evac the owner in case the proverbial hits the fan. Man I like the good jobs. __________________ Remember to use the "search" function, if you have answers/questions post them so everyone can benefit. Free Tree and Green Industry Link Directory Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping Brisbane Tree Care, Consultations and Arborist Reports Forum Sponsors

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19th February 2007, 09:10 PM	#3 (permalink)
TreeCo Mature tree Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Georgia, USA Posts: 262	Great technique. On large trees I've done a plunge cut in the center of the back cut and inserted a wedge, and then proceded to cut one side and then the other. It gets the wedge right in the middle.

19th February 2007, 09:24 PM	#5 (permalink)
yooper Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Upper Michigan U.S.A. Posts: 73	Back in the day, when i did alot of hard wood timber cutting, umm 9 10 years or so ago, that is the way i was always tought to fell trees ,to avoid hang ups. and proper control, i still use it today on many trees , our timber manigment did eventually force us into boar cutting all are trees to avoid splitting and fiber ripping, for the log material, i still use bore cutting today also,bye wedging on both sides, also very effective for control of the tree.

19th February 2007, 10:51 PM	#7 (permalink)
yooper Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Upper Michigan U.S.A. Posts: 73	I have cut many back leaners with a very tight wedge on each side tward the back of my face notch, or side leaning with one wedge, with the bore cut tword the adj side. although i do perfer to later method, all in all a rope is always a good insurence and cheap too,

19th February 2007, 11:30 PM	#9 (permalink)
Sean Freeman PDF King & Arborist Extrodinaire Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Townsville Nth Queensland & Gold Coast Sth Queensland Posts: 1,645	Good luck Ekka, Schizolobium parahybahorrible brittle things, TD's definately helicopter job or 100T crane SF

19th February 2007, 11:47 PM	#10 (permalink)
yooper Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Upper Michigan U.S.A. Posts: 73	Well its nuthen i would do to avoid hitting somones personal property or any thing of value but if i know if i can flop it into a gravel driveway or rather not into the woods, flop it into the yard, i guess it all depends on the situation, iv had alot of practuce using the bore cut in the logging industry...many days cuting trees all day long 30 to 40 a day dont know never counted.... all biger ones over 28 inch dbh and over(the ones the machines would not cut economacly whithout splitting the but end) but ya somtimes it didnt work the way ya wanted it to, in the woods i would never us it on a big tree nor a small too close to a house i do like the insurence of the rope. i dont take chances when i do gat a time i will take some photos times are slow now for me beeing winter dont get to many jobs this time of year.