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| | #1 |
| Admin - Razor sharp and independent 2 X Diploma Level 5 qualified arborist Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 12,820
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Bore cut strap release video for forward leaning trees or trees under tension. View in HQ (high quality) to read the opening text.
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| | #2 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Kansas
Posts: 213
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That's a great vid. While on the topic, could someone please explain how to safely make a bore cut? This is a technique that I feel is very useful, but I find the bore cut to be quite intimidating.
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| | #3 |
| Admin - Razor sharp and independent 2 X Diploma Level 5 qualified arborist Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 12,820
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You need to plunge in with the bar and use the bottom corner of the bar NOT THE TOP. As you start to plunge into the wood put slight force toward the bottom of the bar (like you are cutting forward normally) so more cutting is done with the pulling chain and less chance of kick back. When I did the 660 plunge cut int he video you'll see a little biit of bouncing when I started, that's because it was a bastid ironbark with real decent chunks of hard bark, so the initial start was a little worrisome however you saw how I braced myself and the saw. Here's a not bad youtube video of a guy showing it.
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| | #4 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Kansas
Posts: 213
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Thanks, Ekka! That helps out a lot. I think this is something I'm going to have to practice before I'll ever be comfortable doing it.
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| | #5 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: miami, fl
Posts: 121
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i can't view the video right now (i'm actually at my diesel mechanics class right now) but it sounds, from the breif description, like you described what we call a plunge cut. am i wrong in this assumption? i've found this cut usefull on a couple of occasions and was taught that it is sometimes the only safe cut to make. ive used it a few times on stump cuts where the tree is backed against a wall and feel a bit safer knowing that once i'm in any kick would go into the tree seeing as how it's the only place available. am i also wrong in assuming this? |
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| | #6 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: eugene oregon
Posts: 89
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plunge or purge either are the same, watch for kick back or chatter as you are cutting with the tip initially, but as you work your way into the wood you are using more the back underside of the bar, towards the motor so it feels pretty smoooth if done properly
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| | #7 |
| I'm new here so be nice Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: New Jersey
Posts: 2
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I just did my first bore cut the other day and had one question. If the tree is a head leaner, do I make my straight cut in the notch, and my back cut, parallel to the ground or perpendicular to the to the direction that the tree is leaning ? I'm thinking parallel to the ground. |
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| | #8 |
| Admin - Razor sharp and independent 2 X Diploma Level 5 qualified arborist Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 12,820
|
If the ground is flat and horizontal then parallel with the ground. Think of the bar of the chainsaw having a spirit level in it, keep it horizontal.
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| borecut, felling, release, strap |
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