Double Block Bucking

Eric Frei · 14th May 2007, 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim Craig

I've even heard of some people using soft furniture foam!

Yeah, and I'll be foaming up the pool area on Thursday, me climbing, Jimbo dragging.

Now Jimbo has to test his reflexes and see if he's up to Brother Colins standard.

Ouch if your not!

Eric Frei · 15th May 2007, 01:13 AM

Oh yeah

Here you go, I found a video, now lets see ... it's called SOBfoams.

14.2mb WMV.

You'll see the hook in action.

You'll see me blocking and one handing a ms440

You'll see me one handing an 200T on seed pods.

And, if ya dont like it, dont do it.

Every, 100% of people I have employed or seen working palms have one handed ... every single one. And, unlike Stryken's lovely situation of having solid wood to block palm heads fall to pieces, so I get to catch those pieces with my free hand.

Still with me, wake up, have a look at the terrain.

We have formal manicured garden beneath ugly palms.

We have pavers set on sand bed, pavers crack and sink when bombed on.

We have a pool for wayward logs, fortunately in this instance it's not a liner pool.

We have a piss weak pergola roof right up close to the trunk, any bits falling out of the head would ding that.

Also, a huge disclaimer, it aint me.

I call it a SISSY FREE ZONE!

www.palmtreeservices.com.au/video/sobfoams.wmv

Streyken · 15th May 2007, 04:10 AM

Nice video Ekka. There's a huge difference between what some consider safe and "easy" compared to the reality of the tree and conditions your situation may present. I've seen other people bitch about it too, but 4-6 hours in spurs is a piece of cake. It is much easier being up a tree than on the ground as far as I'm concerned, which is why I try and be easy on my groundies. After the first year your feet and back stop hurting, and in 18 years I've never had a back problem - sore shoulders yes, but 8 hours of hedge trimming will do that.

Maybe a new pair of boots would help. I've seen guys climbing in $100.00 boots bought from Walmart! Spend the 500.00 and get a pair that will last.

Another problem I've seen is guys who don't do tree work consistently. A layoff of a 4 days or so and back at her hard again is sure to cause injuries.

I'll often use my 266 for bucking, the reason the ms660 was being used in the video is because I trashed the chain on the 266 a few days before and haven't had time to get new ones yet. Even the next 4 Saturdays are booked up - take it while it's there, right!

In the next few days I have one that I'll be able to bomb out 40' + chunks, if it's not pouring I'll be sure to get some video.

Question guys, why the second tie in? I use a second if the tree I'm working on is likely to fall over so I can swing to safety, but why is one needed while bucking a spar? I use 5/8 trawler cable and have NEVER had one cut or break - not even close. I have seen one cut into, but the saw was useless before even making its way half through.

Again good video Ekka, shows reality over fiction.

Streyken · 15th May 2007, 04:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ekka

Also, a huge disclaimer, it aint me.

The characters portrayed are professional stunt men. Don't try this at home.

Eric Frei · 15th May 2007, 08:38 AM

The main reason for 2 attachment points on the spar is if you cut through or kick out.

If you kick out you'll go straight down so another choked rope etc will hold you.

The chances of you cutting through the cable you have is zero so for you situation a second tie in would mainly be for kick out.

That said, some say it's also to access the ground quickly. You could have a choked lifeline with a figure 8 decent device installed your prussic backing it up. Lets say you were blocking a hollow spar and got hammered by bees you could rappel to the ground. Now the probability of that in a pine like your doing is zero. Especially with the amount of small stub things likely to catch the flip line.

Also it doesn't state anywhere that your second tie in point must reach the ground.

I use 2 attachments in palms coz they're not so soft to stick ya spikes in and I have kicked out here and there. When blocking I'll use two lanyards. Palms also aren't a tapered dia nor have stubs so it would be a straight ride to ground.

Streyken · 15th May 2007, 10:41 AM

I do use two lanyards for tall whippy alders, same thing, if you kick out you're going straight to the ground. I usually just wrap my second lanyard twice around and leave it way loose. It then acts like a choke once pressure is applied. For the evergreens here, all you have to do is lean back and press one arm on your lanyard and you'll stop very quickly.

George Hayduke · 21st May 2007, 01:59 AM

If you fall onto a non-looped lanyard you won't have time to push on the lanyard to stop your fall. You're going to the ground. Then...where is all of the time saved using dangerous techniques? Gone...when you're recovering or dead.

not on my crew!

Streyken · 21st May 2007, 05:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by George Hayduke

If you fall onto a non-looped lanyard you won't have time to push on the lanyard to stop your fall. You're going to the ground. Then...where is all of the time saved using dangerous techniques? Gone...when you're recovering or dead.

not on my crew!

On a D-fir of hemlock pole it won't happen, period. I've got video will post when I get a chance. And chances are here you'd be working for me.

Eric Frei · 21st May 2007, 08:29 AM

On palms I take two anythings depending what I'm doing ... that'd be an express ride to the ground.

Hey GW, what sort of trees you mainly cut?

Streyken · 22nd May 2007, 04:18 AM

I?m sure GH was just having a bit of fun, as was I; our last posts combined are asinine and if he has the experience he states, he knows that as well. I posted for juxtaposition, but I don?t want anyone without experience getting the wrong idea. Generalities, sweeping statements and absolutes without contextual framework and specific application are just stupid, and some people take subtle sarcasm literally. No one can say what will or won?t work until they?ve been in a specific situation with a specific tree under specific conditions. I?ve never slid down a spar, nor do I know anyone who has, never had both spurs kick out while cutting and I?ve never slid more than a few feet while climbing, ever ? and I don?t believe in luck. My first reaction to any type of slip is to bend my knees slightly and lean back, the bark and lanyard take care of the rest, any pressure applied to the lanyard and you stop that much quicker, but most likely your spurs will dig in again; I know if I was doing palms, eucs, etc. this wouldn?t work, but it really is ingrained habit that has served me well here. If you?re talking about both spurs kicking out and being nowhere near the tree, I don?t even know how you?d get into that situation here without trying. I?ve climbed thousands and thousands and thousands of these poles with never a problem. Some days I?ll do as many as 9 removals of 100? + fir or hem, again, not luck.

I have a 60? tall 18? diameter hemlock snag I?ve got to bring down this week. Its top has been missing for years and all the branches have fallen off. It?s about a 15? swing from the nearest adjacent tree. I?ll be using two ropes, but no lanyard, as the snag has a good possibility of going over. Now it might seem common sense to say "always use a lanyard", but in this case it would be a big mistake. Every situation is unique, as is every area, which is why I like seeing how others do their job on this board.

JohN Dee · 22nd May 2007, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Streyken

I’ll be using two ropes, but no lanyard, as the snag has a good possibility of going over.

Is this the technique reffered to as DbRT? I use two ropes(Two TIP's), no lanyard up a tree when I do prune's...

Streyken · 23rd May 2007, 03:08 AM

I don't know what this is called. I have used 2 ropes for work positioning, usually placed at opposing angles, but this will be two ropes, one below the other, in a tall neighboring tree while I swing to the snag. It will be more of a balancing act than positioning; the second rope is only for safety while I block the snag down. I'd love to hang it, but it would fall apart.

<edit>Just thought I'd mention, I might try a tear-away velcro lanyard clip I've been toying with for these situations.</edit>

Oxman · 30th May 2007, 10:29 AM

Howzabout this scenario?

When blocking down a spar on slightly steep ground, make two overlapping cuts from opposite sides of the stem about 2 inches apart.

With the next cut, drop these two partially joined pieces to the ground, where they break apart upon impact.

Rather than roll down hill like a single block, this longish piece of wood will generally stay put. Some of the force of the fall is used up by the upper piece knocking into the first piece to strike the ground.

An advantage is that the wood does not have to be cut after dirtying itself.

It seems like after cutting so much wood, we get bored, and want to shake things up with variants on standard operating procedure. We're like kids playing with Lincoln Logs.

The other day, I took down a tall Sugar Pine tree in 6 foot sections. They landed all in a row, lying side by side. They looked like body bags by the side of the road.

Here's a scene when one of the tops was dropped. Sorry, no view of the makeshift coffins.

Oxman · 30th May 2007, 11:05 AM

Retry of attaching the video. It was almost 4 MB, with a 3.89 limit.
Good thing Bill Gates "improved" Windows Movie Maker. Now, it won't save in any format except .wmv. The original version allowed .mpg's, etc.

Just tried it again, a slightly smaller version at 2.99 MB, but still no luck. Time to reboot.

Solly, Cholly.

Eric Frei · 30th May 2007, 04:55 PM

Oxman, check ya private messages, I can upload for you.

Oxman · 1st June 2007, 12:33 PM

Thanx a bunch. Here it is. Unfortunately, it's not the blocking portion. Just some mundane topping out the 110 footer. Interesting shot of a jet flying in to Sea-Tac airport.

The vid is at: http://www.treeworld.info/video/souaiaia2.wmv

Eric Frei · 1st June 2007, 12:49 PM

I noticed in that video the stem goes up and divides into 2 stems.

What happened there, was it topped before or natural? Included etc? Just interested.

boreality · 17th June 2007, 05:01 AM

Streyken my issue with your technique is what about the curious 10 year old boy who walks onto the worksite to check out the activity, and your throwing chunks without looking down or giving verbal warnings. I assume pedestrians are dumb, because they keep proving it. They walk around pylons under warning tape and are not used to looking up.

Brad Goyen · 17th June 2007, 04:33 PM

Definitely easier on the arms keeping the saw up, i only thaught the saw was too big till i read on. Tim there has been many a day when i wish i could have cut the tree in larger sections but by using the methods you suggest it becomes financially unviable to work as a small operation. there are a few things i am pretty sure of, trees won't get me, i won't get me but idiots on the ground will, so if your methods limit your interaction with the unknown (groundies) then the better for you.
Streyken, looking forward to more vids, go hard son

Streyken · 17th June 2007, 08:16 PM

Boreality, I see you just finished reading a safety manual, good on you. What program did you use to see the drop zone and surrounding area in the video and where can I get a copy?

Streyken · 17th June 2007, 08:21 PM

Very true Brad. Unless I really know and trust the groundie, I do all my own rigging and roping.

boreality · 25th June 2007, 02:58 PM

I tried the double buck and liked it so much I wish there was a triple buck.

Streyken · 26th June 2007, 04:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boreality

I tried the double buck and liked it so much I wish there was a triple buck.

Try it and let us know.

I won't say I've tried four, that would get me into real trouble!

Bernard Keays · 29th June 2007, 10:28 PM

Streyken....I'm a bit of an arm chair arborist these days but enjoyed your video. I haven't climbed for at least a month now but itching to get back into it. I use to do take downs like that in tight spots before I could lower with ropes. Just thought your climber was cutting a bit close to his flip line and personally I would prefer a smaller saw.

JohN Dee · 1st July 2007, 08:28 PM

I think the size of the saw and bar are great, think about it, all that power to go straight through, and the big ass bar minimizes the chance of a kick back.

I'd like to try it myself, but even when i'm normally bucking down now, i'm still very conscious about cutting into my tie in's...

treestyle · 18th July 2007, 09:09 PM

sorry George, but i'm not too sure that the sun is the centre of the universe either.

godavey · 11th September 2007, 10:25 AM

that looks strange i have never seen that method before

treefeller · 12th September 2007, 06:30 AM

Looks like an effective method, wont obviously be to everyones taste but im gonna give it ago, will use my steel spiking strop tho and my lanyard as a second, ill get some pics up when ive done one

cut-right · 9th March 2008, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Streyken

LOL. Sort of like the vast majority of your posts, hey? Want me to take your opinion seriously, show some of your work where you have to buck 100' of 80cm + wood. Gotta remember that saying though, thanks.

streyken, You were looking smooth on all of your cuts, didnt see any loss of control or indication of that technique not being safe. The big bar seemed to balance the saw laying on log.

cut-right · 9th March 2008, 02:35 PM

just read the last page of all replies to your video double chunking the pine tree.. Doing a good job of defending your position that doesnt even need defending. Whats up with these guys. A saftey record combined with yrs. exp. should tell them something. I think you know what your doing!

15th May 2007, 01:13 AM	#32
Eric Frei Admin - Razor sharp and independent 2 X Diploma Level 5 qualified arborist Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane Posts: 12,820	Oh yeah Here you go, I found a video, now lets see ... it's called SOBfoams. 14.2mb WMV. You'll see the hook in action. You'll see me blocking and one handing a ms440 You'll see me one handing an 200T on seed pods. And, if ya dont like it, dont do it. Every, 100% of people I have employed or seen working palms have one handed ... every single one. And, unlike Stryken's lovely situation of having solid wood to block palm heads fall to pieces, so I get to catch those pieces with my free hand. Still with me, wake up, have a look at the terrain. We have formal manicured garden beneath ugly palms. We have pavers set on sand bed, pavers crack and sink when bombed on. We have a pool for wayward logs, fortunately in this instance it's not a liner pool. We have a piss weak pergola roof right up close to the trunk, any bits falling out of the head would ding that. Also, a huge disclaimer, it aint me. I call it a SISSY FREE ZONE! www.palmtreeservices.com.au/video/sobfoams.wmv __________________ Protect your rights to work - Join Australian Tree Association My businesses:- Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping \| Stump Grinding Brisbane \| Brisbane - Gold Coast Consulting Arborist

15th May 2007, 04:10 AM	#33
Streyken Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 150	Nice one Ekka Nice video Ekka. There's a huge difference between what some consider safe and "easy" compared to the reality of the tree and conditions your situation may present. I've seen other people bitch about it too, but 4-6 hours in spurs is a piece of cake. It is much easier being up a tree than on the ground as far as I'm concerned, which is why I try and be easy on my groundies. After the first year your feet and back stop hurting, and in 18 years I've never had a back problem - sore shoulders yes, but 8 hours of hedge trimming will do that. Maybe a new pair of boots would help. I've seen guys climbing in $100.00 boots bought from Walmart! Spend the 500.00 and get a pair that will last. Another problem I've seen is guys who don't do tree work consistently. A layoff of a 4 days or so and back at her hard again is sure to cause injuries. I'll often use my 266 for bucking, the reason the ms660 was being used in the video is because I trashed the chain on the 266 a few days before and haven't had time to get new ones yet. Even the next 4 Saturdays are booked up - take it while it's there, right! In the next few days I have one that I'll be able to bomb out 40' + chunks, if it's not pouring I'll be sure to get some video. Question guys, why the second tie in? I use a second if the tree I'm working on is likely to fall over so I can swing to safety, but why is one needed while bucking a spar? I use 5/8 trawler cable and have NEVER had one cut or break - not even close. I have seen one cut into, but the saw was useless before even making its way half through. Again good video Ekka, shows reality over fiction. __________________ Trimmin' bush and caring for flowers is good 'n' all... but sometimes ya gotta let the big wood fly and pound the garden.

15th May 2007, 08:38 AM	#35
Eric Frei Admin - Razor sharp and independent 2 X Diploma Level 5 qualified arborist Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane Posts: 12,820	The main reason for 2 attachment points on the spar is if you cut through or kick out. If you kick out you'll go straight down so another choked rope etc will hold you. The chances of you cutting through the cable you have is zero so for you situation a second tie in would mainly be for kick out. That said, some say it's also to access the ground quickly. You could have a choked lifeline with a figure 8 decent device installed your prussic backing it up. Lets say you were blocking a hollow spar and got hammered by bees you could rappel to the ground. Now the probability of that in a pine like your doing is zero. Especially with the amount of small stub things likely to catch the flip line. Also it doesn't state anywhere that your second tie in point must reach the ground. I use 2 attachments in palms coz they're not so soft to stick ya spikes in and I have kicked out here and there. When blocking I'll use two lanyards. Palms also aren't a tapered dia nor have stubs so it would be a straight ride to ground. __________________ Protect your rights to work - Join Australian Tree Association My businesses:- Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping \| Stump Grinding Brisbane \| Brisbane - Gold Coast Consulting Arborist

15th May 2007, 10:41 AM	#36
Streyken Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 150	I do use two lanyards for tall whippy alders, same thing, if you kick out you're going straight to the ground. I usually just wrap my second lanyard twice around and leave it way loose. It then acts like a choke once pressure is applied. For the evergreens here, all you have to do is lean back and press one arm on your lanyard and you'll stop very quickly. __________________ Trimmin' bush and caring for flowers is good 'n' all... but sometimes ya gotta let the big wood fly and pound the garden. Last edited by Streyken; 15th May 2007 at 12:18 PM. Reason: spalling, I mean spelling

21st May 2007, 08:29 AM	#39
Eric Frei Admin - Razor sharp and independent 2 X Diploma Level 5 qualified arborist Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane Posts: 12,820	On palms I take two anythings depending what I'm doing ... that'd be an express ride to the ground. Hey GW, what sort of trees you mainly cut? __________________ Protect your rights to work - Join Australian Tree Association My businesses:- Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping \| Stump Grinding Brisbane \| Brisbane - Gold Coast Consulting Arborist

21st May 2007, 01:59 AM	#37
George Hayduke Former Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: Slickrock, USA Posts: 87	If you fall onto a non-looped lanyard you won't have time to push on the lanyard to stop your fall. You're going to the ground. Then...where is all of the time saved using dangerous techniques? Gone...when you're recovering or dead. not on my crew!

22nd May 2007, 04:18 AM	#40
Streyken Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 150	I?m sure GH was just having a bit of fun, as was I; our last posts combined are asinine and if he has the experience he states, he knows that as well. I posted for juxtaposition, but I don?t want anyone without experience getting the wrong idea. Generalities, sweeping statements and absolutes without contextual framework and specific application are just stupid, and some people take subtle sarcasm literally. No one can say what will or won?t work until they?ve been in a specific situation with a specific tree under specific conditions. I?ve never slid down a spar, nor do I know anyone who has, never had both spurs kick out while cutting and I?ve never slid more than a few feet while climbing, ever ? and I don?t believe in luck. My first reaction to any type of slip is to bend my knees slightly and lean back, the bark and lanyard take care of the rest, any pressure applied to the lanyard and you stop that much quicker, but most likely your spurs will dig in again; I know if I was doing palms, eucs, etc. this wouldn?t work, but it really is ingrained habit that has served me well here. If you?re talking about both spurs kicking out and being nowhere near the tree, I don?t even know how you?d get into that situation here without trying. I?ve climbed thousands and thousands and thousands of these poles with never a problem. Some days I?ll do as many as 9 removals of 100? + fir or hem, again, not luck. I have a 60? tall 18? diameter hemlock snag I?ve got to bring down this week. Its top has been missing for years and all the branches have fallen off. It?s about a 15? swing from the nearest adjacent tree. I?ll be using two ropes, but no lanyard, as the snag has a good possibility of going over. Now it might seem common sense to say "always use a lanyard", but in this case it would be a big mistake. Every situation is unique, as is every area, which is why I like seeing how others do their job on this board. __________________ Trimmin' bush and caring for flowers is good 'n' all... but sometimes ya gotta let the big wood fly and pound the garden.

23rd May 2007, 03:08 AM	#42
Streyken Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 150	I don't know what this is called. I have used 2 ropes for work positioning, usually placed at opposing angles, but this will be two ropes, one below the other, in a tall neighboring tree while I swing to the snag. It will be more of a balancing act than positioning; the second rope is only for safety while I block the snag down. I'd love to hang it, but it would fall apart. <edit>Just thought I'd mention, I might try a tear-away velcro lanyard clip I've been toying with for these situations.</edit> __________________ Trimmin' bush and caring for flowers is good 'n' all... but sometimes ya gotta let the big wood fly and pound the garden. Last edited by Streyken; 23rd May 2007 at 03:27 AM. Reason: add

30th May 2007, 10:29 AM	#43
Oxman Sappling Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Seattle Posts: 42	Snap cut for blocking down a spar Howzabout this scenario? When blocking down a spar on slightly steep ground, make two overlapping cuts from opposite sides of the stem about 2 inches apart. With the next cut, drop these two partially joined pieces to the ground, where they break apart upon impact. Rather than roll down hill like a single block, this longish piece of wood will generally stay put. Some of the force of the fall is used up by the upper piece knocking into the first piece to strike the ground. An advantage is that the wood does not have to be cut after dirtying itself. It seems like after cutting so much wood, we get bored, and want to shake things up with variants on standard operating procedure. We're like kids playing with Lincoln Logs. The other day, I took down a tall Sugar Pine tree in 6 foot sections. They landed all in a row, lying side by side. They looked like body bags by the side of the road. Here's a scene when one of the tops was dropped. Sorry, no view of the makeshift coffins.

30th May 2007, 11:05 AM	#44
Oxman Sappling Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Seattle Posts: 42	Retry of attaching the video. It was almost 4 MB, with a 3.89 limit. Good thing Bill Gates "improved" Windows Movie Maker. Now, it won't save in any format except .wmv. The original version allowed .mpg's, etc. Just tried it again, a slightly smaller version at 2.99 MB, but still no luck. Time to reboot. Solly, Cholly.

30th May 2007, 04:55 PM	#45
Eric Frei Admin - Razor sharp and independent 2 X Diploma Level 5 qualified arborist Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane Posts: 12,820	Oxman, check ya private messages, I can upload for you. __________________ Protect your rights to work - Join Australian Tree Association My businesses:- Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping \| Stump Grinding Brisbane \| Brisbane - Gold Coast Consulting Arborist

1st June 2007, 12:33 PM	#46
Oxman Sappling Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Seattle Posts: 42	Thanx a bunch. Here it is. Unfortunately, it's not the blocking portion. Just some mundane topping out the 110 footer. Interesting shot of a jet flying in to Sea-Tac airport. The vid is at: http://www.treeworld.info/video/souaiaia2.wmv

1st June 2007, 12:49 PM	#47
Eric Frei Admin - Razor sharp and independent 2 X Diploma Level 5 qualified arborist Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane Posts: 12,820	I noticed in that video the stem goes up and divides into 2 stems. What happened there, was it topped before or natural? Included etc? Just interested. __________________ Protect your rights to work - Join Australian Tree Association My businesses:- Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping \| Stump Grinding Brisbane \| Brisbane - Gold Coast Consulting Arborist

17th June 2007, 05:01 AM	#48
boreality Sappling Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Saskatchewan Posts: 46	Streyken my issue with your technique is what about the curious 10 year old boy who walks onto the worksite to check out the activity, and your throwing chunks without looking down or giving verbal warnings. I assume pedestrians are dumb, because they keep proving it. They walk around pylons under warning tape and are not used to looking up.

17th June 2007, 04:33 PM	#49
Brad Goyen Sappling Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Sydney Australia Posts: 20	Definitely easier on the arms keeping the saw up, i only thaught the saw was too big till i read on. Tim there has been many a day when i wish i could have cut the tree in larger sections but by using the methods you suggest it becomes financially unviable to work as a small operation. there are a few things i am pretty sure of, trees won't get me, i won't get me but idiots on the ground will, so if your methods limit your interaction with the unknown (groundies) then the better for you. Streyken, looking forward to more vids, go hard son

17th June 2007, 08:16 PM	#50
Streyken Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 150	Boreality, I see you just finished reading a safety manual, good on you. What program did you use to see the drop zone and surrounding area in the video and where can I get a copy? __________________ Trimmin' bush and caring for flowers is good 'n' all... but sometimes ya gotta let the big wood fly and pound the garden.

17th June 2007, 08:21 PM	#51
Streyken Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 150	Very true Brad. Unless I really know and trust the groundie, I do all my own rigging and roping. __________________ Trimmin' bush and caring for flowers is good 'n' all... but sometimes ya gotta let the big wood fly and pound the garden.

25th June 2007, 02:58 PM	#52
boreality Sappling Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Saskatchewan Posts: 46	I tried the double buck and liked it so much I wish there was a triple buck.

29th June 2007, 10:28 PM	#54
Bernard Keays Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Glasshouse Posts: 193	Streyken....I'm a bit of an arm chair arborist these days but enjoyed your video. I haven't climbed for at least a month now but itching to get back into it. I use to do take downs like that in tight spots before I could lower with ropes. Just thought your climber was cutting a bit close to his flip line and personally I would prefer a smaller saw.

1st July 2007, 08:28 PM	#55
JohN Dee Moderator Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Climbing around the world Posts: 855	I think the size of the saw and bar are great, think about it, all that power to go straight through, and the big ass bar minimizes the chance of a kick back. I'd like to try it myself, but even when i'm normally bucking down now, i'm still very conscious about cutting into my tie in's... __________________ We are what we repeatedly do... Excellence then, is not an act, but HABIT... Red : Green : Blue

18th July 2007, 09:09 PM	#56
treestyle Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: North Brisbane Posts: 128	sorry George, but i'm not too sure that the sun is the centre of the universe either.

11th September 2007, 10:25 AM	#57
godavey I'm new here so be nice Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: denver Posts: 2	Re: Double Block Bucking that looks strange i have never seen that method before

12th September 2007, 06:30 AM	#58
treefeller Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: aaa Posts: 224	Re: Double Block Bucking Looks like an effective method, wont obviously be to everyones taste but im gonna give it ago, will use my steel spiking strop tho and my lanyard as a second, ill get some pics up when ive done one

9th March 2008, 02:35 PM	#60
cut-right Sappling Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: north carolina Posts: 31	Re: Double Block Bucking just read the last page of all replies to your video double chunking the pine tree.. Doing a good job of defending your position that doesnt even need defending. Whats up with these guys. A saftey record combined with yrs. exp. should tell them something. I think you know what your doing!

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