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| | #1 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: May 2011 Location: Ohio
Posts: 57
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Hi, What kind of oak tree is this? It kind of looks like either a pin or red oak, but I am not sure. Also, depending on what kind of oak it is, what eats it? I am wondering if I need to keep the cage up around it to protect it. Also, the stem on the tree is a little bent because before I transplanted it, it was growing in ivy, which caused it to grow bent a little. Is there anyway to straighten it out? Should I just leave it? Will it straighten itself out? The first picture is of the leaves and in the second one, you can see the stem at the bottom of the picture. Thanks, |
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| | #2 |
| Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,557
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I believe it is Red Oak, Quercus rubra. ![]() Eden Keeper might be able to identify a variety for you.
__________________ My business: Tree Pruning and Removals -- Strump Removals -- Advice -- Consulting -- Arborist Reports Consulting Forester If you want an honest opinion, call Brent Ferris...because, Trees want to Live Too ! We do great jobs, even in small yards. Free Estimates Oakville to Oshawa - North to Bradford (Will travel further if cost of travelling covered) Email -- treeshaveneeds@3web.com Cell 416-460-5704 Last edited by Brent Ferris; 14th July 2011 at 03:11 PM. Reason: added thought |
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| | #3 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Alabama
Posts: 116
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It is definitely in the red oak group since the lobes are pointed rather than rounded, note the hair like tip of the lobes. I'm also leaning toward northern red oak, Quercus rubra L., due to the shallow sinuses between lobes. There is another half dozen otherwise similar species (pin, northern pin, southern red, scarlet, black, and Shumard's oak) reported in the area (Ohio) besides hybrids, thus uncertainty is to be expected with seedling of such a large and potentially mixed up group since the leaves used for identification are those growing in direct sunlight on mature trees where acorns and other keys are used to differentiate similar species. The cage will only help protect against mammals causing random damage where the biggest risk is usually humans doing lawn care followed by deer, rabbits and beaver. Just weigh those risk against any risk of the tree rubbing against the cage in windy conditions. Correctly applied and maintained mulch -- at least 3 feet in diameter, at most 3 inches thick, and never touching the trunk -- is usually just as effective besides being more attractive. The stem will stay bent (if nothing is done), although it will likely become less noticeable as the trunk diameter becomes larger than the bend. As small as the tree is it might be possible to use a bonsai technique to straighten/bend trunks/branches. This starts with wrapping the area with annealed copper wire (the wrapping stiffens the wire and allows the wrapped wood to be gently straightened/bent within reason) and diligence to be sure the wire is removed before the stem is effectively girdled. |
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| | #4 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: May 2011 Location: Ohio
Posts: 57
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Hi, How do oak trees form hybrids? Will the mulch diameter around the tree prevent deer, rabbits, etc from eating the leaves/bark? What else does the much help with? The reason I put up the cage is because I had another tree planted and some animal (I think a deer) ate all of the leaves off of it. So stems will not straighten themselves out. Do stems only grow diameter-wise once they have already grown vertically? Thanks ![]() |
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| | #5 | ||||
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Alabama
Posts: 116
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| | #6 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: May 2011 Location: Ohio
Posts: 57
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Hi, So do you suggest removing the cage, mulching, and hope that an animal doesn't eat the leaves? Or should I keep the cage there until the tree grows tall enough so that deer cannot reach 2/3s of it (which could be many years)? Thanks again! |
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| | #7 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: May 2011 Location: Ohio
Posts: 57
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Hi, Any ideas? Thanks ![]() |
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| | #8 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Alabama
Posts: 116
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Sorry for the delay, I was out of town most of that time. I'm just giving options with some potential outcomes, but the final decision has to be yours based on the specific set of risk and reward. I've used cages with both success and failure to protect plants from deer and make them more visible to anyone driving lawn/farm equipment in the area. Most of the damage to plants, cages, and even mulch has came from the later. Mulch simulates the layer of duff (leaves, twigs, and bark) and thus the conditions of a forest floor with the aesthetic appeal of formal landscaping or manicured lawns. The cage doesn't seem large enough to fully protect the tree so I usually remove similar sized cages while it can still be done with minimal damage to the tree and/or cage, but I'd mulch either way since some benefits include helping the tree reach a deer resistant size sooner.
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| | #9 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: May 2011 Location: Ohio
Posts: 57
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Thanks
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| | #10 |
| Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,557
|
I would be inclined to keep a cage, just make it bigger (and easier to remove) than the existing one to minimize deer feeding until the tree gets large enough and high enough to no longer need protection.
__________________ My business: Tree Pruning and Removals -- Strump Removals -- Advice -- Consulting -- Arborist Reports Consulting Forester If you want an honest opinion, call Brent Ferris...because, Trees want to Live Too ! We do great jobs, even in small yards. Free Estimates Oakville to Oshawa - North to Bradford (Will travel further if cost of travelling covered) Email -- treeshaveneeds@3web.com Cell 416-460-5704 |
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| | #11 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: May 2011 Location: Ohio
Posts: 57
|
Thanks! I put mulch down, making sure it was 6 inches from the base of the tree. I also made the cage a lot bigger so that there is no way the tree can touch it and that the deer can't eat it. |
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| | #12 |
| Former Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: cebu
Posts: 5
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Oaks have spirally arranged leaves, with a lobed margin in many species; some have serrated leaves or entire leaves with a smooth margin. The flowers are catkins, produced in spring. The fruit is a nut called an acorn, borne in a cup-like structure known as a cupule; each acorn contains one seed (rarely two or three) and takes 6–18 months to mature, depending on species. The live oaks are distinguished for being evergreen, but are not actually a distinct group and instead are dispersed across the genus.
Last edited by Jeff Darby; 9th November 2011 at 05:41 AM. Reason: removed spam link |
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| | #13 |
| Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,557
| Aren't catkins part of the Betulaceae family whereas Oak is part of the Fagaceae family?
__________________ My business: Tree Pruning and Removals -- Strump Removals -- Advice -- Consulting -- Arborist Reports Consulting Forester If you want an honest opinion, call Brent Ferris...because, Trees want to Live Too ! We do great jobs, even in small yards. Free Estimates Oakville to Oshawa - North to Bradford (Will travel further if cost of travelling covered) Email -- treeshaveneeds@3web.com Cell 416-460-5704 |
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