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Old 17th December 2008, 11:32 AM   #121
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Whats up you guys? I am busy as all get out on mods and saws and season.

Hope all you folks have a Merry Christmas.
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Old 17th December 2008, 11:56 AM   #122
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Default Re: Chainsaw Muffler Modifications - Internet Sales World Wide

Can you go over again what can be done with a 361 and what the problems are with it?
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Old 17th December 2008, 12:27 PM   #123
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Quote:
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Can you go over again what can be done with a 361 and what the problems are with it?


There are no problems with using the muffler. Only benefits.

treat it as any modified saw, no public lands.

I add a port and screen to the muffler. I can send you a new muffler for $125. or You can send me your muffler to be worked up for $75.

Thanks,
Scott.
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Old 17th December 2008, 12:35 PM   #124
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i thought there was some problem about baffling material or something. In the past you said you only do it with a muffler from a 361 that a customer sends you, otherwise you have to buy an entire muffler for it.

Have you solved that issue?
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Old 17th December 2008, 01:31 PM   #125
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i thought there was some problem about baffling material or something. In the past you said you only do it with a muffler from a 361 that a customer sends you, otherwise you have to buy an entire muffler for it.

Have you solved that issue?
Yes,

I have been able to source new mufflers. I have current listings on eBay, and as orders are made, I build and ship out. I thought that $125 would be to high to market the mufflers effectively. But I have made several sales, and will refund the difference if you send me your good muffler to re-use. It has worked very well.

Some folks want to retain their stock muffler in case their new saw develops a warranty issue the first year.

Thanks,
Scott.
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Old 24th December 2008, 05:28 PM   #126
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I tried a WOJO muffler on my 575xp, Its now going like a Stihl:

It did need to tune but thats part of the fun

i would be interested in hearing about a modded muffler for the MS200 and 192 if anyones done one
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Old 24th December 2008, 05:42 PM   #127
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i would be interested in hearing about a modded muffler for the MS200 and 192 if anyones done one
With the 200T all you have to do is pull that gauze strip out (a screw holds it in), that'll do it.
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Old 24th December 2008, 10:30 PM   #128
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Meaning there's really not enough displacement to really make much of a difference?

That would be my gut sense, not being a mechanical wizard by a long shot.

Giving this little saw a little boost might give the operator an inflated sense that the little saw can do the work of a bigger saw.
That would be a road to an early demise of the little saw that you've upgraded to nothing more than an overall bigger price tag. Congrads.

Pull the spark arrest screen and call it good.
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Old 24th December 2008, 11:03 PM   #129
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Meaning there's really not enough displacement to really make much of a difference?

That would be my gut sense, not being a mechanical wizard by a long shot.

Giving this little saw a little boost might give the operator an inflated sense that the little saw can do the work of a bigger saw.
That would be a road to an early demise of the little saw that you've upgraded to nothing more than an overall bigger price tag. Congrads.

Pull the spark arrest screen and call it good.
On the smaller saws its a bit trickier for the guy who has to tune the saw. Several have a fixed jet carb and you would have to manually make the jets larger. About the smallest saw I would attempt for the expert operator would be the 026. And those, ONLY if there is a fully adjustable carb. Most have one or the other.

The only other option on the really small saws would be a full blown woods port by the engine builders here in the States or in Canada.
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Old 25th December 2008, 06:19 AM   #130
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Default Re: Chainsaw Muffler Modifications - Internet Sales World Wide

my comments in bold

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tree Machine View Post
Meaning there's really not enough displacement to really make much of a difference?

Not true at all. My 2139T Jonsy was 40% faster when i put a dual port muffler on it. After I open up the stock 192T port, it is 20-30% faster.

Pull the spark arrest screen and call it good.That's plenty with the 200T, as it makes the already fast saw about 8% faster. And, any louder would be painful
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Old 25th December 2008, 06:23 AM   #131
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On the smaller saws its a bit trickier for the guy who has to tune the saw. Several have a fixed jet carb and you would have to manually make the jets larger. About the smallest saw I would attempt for the expert operator would be the 026. And those, ONLY if there is a fully adjustable carb. Most have one or the other.

The only other option on the really small saws would be a full blown woods port by the engine builders here in the States or in Canada.
While there may be some small saws with fixed jet carbs, I don't know of any current models so equipped. The 200T and 260 now have fully adjustable carbs.
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Old 25th December 2008, 07:50 AM   #132
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While there may be some small saws with fixed jet carbs, I don't know of any current models so equipped. The 200T and 260 now have fully adjustable carbs.
Some of the 026's had fixed jet carbs.

Alot of the junkie home owner saws also are fixed.
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Old 28th December 2008, 03:44 AM   #133
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Default Re: Chainsaw Muffler Modifications - Internet Sales World Wide

I found this information. If it has been already Posted, Sorry for the Duplicate, because I haven't read all the Posts yet. Bruce. Carb Adjustment on Pro Chainsaws Info
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Old 29th December 2008, 08:33 AM   #134
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When using a low kick back chain (standard safety chain) can the saw spin to fast and reduce cutting ability??

I tried Ekka's trick on the 200 and it worked a treat.
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Old 29th December 2008, 01:09 PM   #135
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I tried Ekka's trick on the 200 and it worked a treat.
Hope you re-tuned as it likely would run faster, maybe needs a tad of richening up. It's the "H" screw you'll need to adjust, winding in (clockwise) is richer, and out (anti-clockwise) is leaner. Too lean and you'll stuff the saw, better to run slightly rich.

Read this post, is an error here ... real fact is screwing in (clockwise) is lean and out (anti-clockwise) is rich.

Always tune with the saw warm and the chain on. Don't be a wanker like one guy on another forum was and kept winding to see what the peak revs were and blew the thing up (no bar or chain on either). Because it's running leaner the piston gets hot and expands faster than the bore, scores the bore and can seize, either way then the saw is stuffed and your Mrs or mates will kick ya ass.

Tuning a saw can be an art, I use my ears and am pretty good. However there's tacho's around that are great too. The real key is knowing when it's not a tuning problem but something else, often I see people trying to tune a saw with another problem, usually air leaks, and the saw gets flat spots, erratic, runs on or stalls.
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Old 29th December 2008, 01:56 PM   #136
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. Sorry guys, but you guys being worried about Noise, it is very Obvious to me, that you guys never ran a McCulloch 1-10, or McCulloch Mac 10-10 Automatic.
I have a Stiles 044, 034, and 024, and they are Whole Lot Quieter than any of my bigger McCulloch Chain Saws like my Pro Mac 60, and Pro Mac 700 and the Chain Saws I mentioned earlier. Those Old McCulloch Chain Saws are LOUD. . You definitely want to be wearing Hearing Protection, with those Chain Saws. Bruce.
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Old 30th December 2008, 05:59 PM   #137
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Thanks Ekka, It took a while (at least an hour and a bit) but i reckon i've got the 200 singing. I gave it my best then got a guy who's been in the industry for about 10 years to have a gander and he didn't think he needed to make any changes.

I've left it running more rich than lean. I was playing around on a yellow box and found it better under load when it was tuned little richer. Out of interest there is a summer/winter slide on the handle near the carbie. In the Sydney/Central West climate would you ever change it? I had assumed it was for the guys doing it tough in sub zero conditions . I leave it at summer.
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Old 30th December 2008, 07:26 PM   #138
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Yeah, I wouldn't worry with that, this isn't like -20C etc Canuck county or sub zero similar.
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Old 30th December 2008, 10:03 PM   #139
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HEY HEY Now. Watch The Bashing!!. I just started running my Stihl Chain Saws this fall. Up until now, I've always ran McCulloch Chain Saws, that you see in my Signature and I was told by a friend of mine down in Nova Scotia, that he runs all his Stihl Chain Saws, with the Window Open, all year long. Hope this helps you guys in the Banana Part of the World. Bruce.
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Old 31st December 2008, 05:38 PM   #140
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Quote:
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It's the "H" screw you'll need to adjust, winding in (clockwise) is richer, and out (anti-clockwise) is leaner. Too lean and you'll stuff the saw, better to run slightly rich.

Huh? Is that a down-under thing, Eric? Ya gots it bassackwards, mate....

Turning a jet in is closing it off, which allows less fuel, thus leaning the mixture.
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Old 31st December 2008, 05:45 PM   #141
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When using a low kick back chain (standard safety chain) can the saw spin to fast and reduce cutting ability??
Type of chain has nothing to do with chain speed. That is determined by engine tune and model. Also, at a given rpm, a larger sprocket will give more chain speed, but less torque.

safety chain has a tiny bit more drag, and a bit less cutting speed than pro chain
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Old 31st December 2008, 06:02 PM   #142
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Huh? Is that a down-under thing, Eric? Ya gots it bassackwards, mate....

Turning a jet in is closing it off, which allows less fuel, thus leaning the mixture.
LOL, my bad, You're right!

And it's been a while since I've tuned one as they're all running pretty good. Usually I also turn outwards (anti-clockwise) about 1/4 turn or so to run slightly rich off the peak.
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Old 1st January 2009, 05:42 AM   #143
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Type of chain has nothing to do with chain speed. That is determined by engine tune and model. Also, at a given rpm, a larger sprocket will give more chain speed, but less torque.

safety chain has a tiny bit more drag, and a bit less cutting speed than pro chain
If saftey chain has a tiny bit more drag.... how does that not change the chain speed?

Saftey chain is shyte....ugh.
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Old 1st January 2009, 10:19 AM   #144
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Yep, i though i would cop it for using safety chain but hey, im still new at this so im taking every precaution i can. Ill have a search throught the previous posts to see what chains are commonly used? I could make a good poll?

Whith the chain speed i was more wondering if the saw was spinning faster ie tuned too lean or an oversized sproket would the cutting efficiency be reduced on a safety chain.
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Old 5th January 2009, 01:18 AM   #145
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Here is another in some Big Wood.



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Old 5th January 2009, 01:22 AM   #146
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Here is a guy who bought this saw off of me on eBay. The Bar was brand new when he got it. Looks like he is getting some good use out of it.

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Old 5th January 2009, 06:41 AM   #147
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LOL, I think that guy needs to tighten the chain a little.
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Old 12th January 2009, 09:46 AM   #148
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that ole boy has been watching to much t.v. or mabey his lady was timeing him . h
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Old 12th January 2009, 10:02 AM   #149
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Looks like the Bar has seen some Abuse as well as Good Use. Bruce.
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1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).
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Old 12th January 2009, 10:48 AM   #150
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Looks like the Bar has seen some Abuse as well as Good Use. Bruce.
Like I said, he only had that saw for a short time. And the Bar was spanking brand new. I doubt he will be able to wear out that GB Ti bar.
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