Block Driver - if you are blocking down big wood then you need this tool

Ekka · 13th June 2007, 10:49 PM

The Block Driver

You have removed the canopy and working your way down the trunk. It's 3' diameter and you are cutting 12" sections, each weighing around 450lbs. Pushing these off is near impossible...

Until now.

Invented by a treeman, Reg Coates, the Block Driver is inserted under the cut section and simply ratcheted off the trunk. Simple and effective. See for yourself in this video of the Block Driver in action. See how easily a large section is pushed off one handed!

block driver tool

This brilliant tool is available from Australia and New Zealand Arborist Supplies.

Save your back and increase your productivity with the Block Driver.

A copy of the instruction manual can be downloaded here 2mb

nick · 16th June 2007, 06:11 AM

Hi Ekka, I used the BlockDriver this morning on a large poplar trunk that needed felling. Access was very limited. We only had one spot to drop all the blocks and then roll them out through a hole in the hedge.

The stem had quite a lean and, as it happened, it was leaning the wrong way; away from my drop zone.This meant I was under the lean to move the blocks in the desired direction. Usually, I find this part of the job very tiring. With this new device, however, it was an absolute joy to be able to push the blocks (much bigger than I would have normally cut) under control and in an otherwise awkward direction. This smart tool saves a heap of time and work.

http://www.nickbaileytreeservices.co.uk

Ekka · 16th June 2007, 08:00 AM

That's great, can only imagine the PITA it would have been to try get them off other ways.

You'll have to get some pics and maybe vids guys when using this device and stick them in this thread so others can see the savings.

TrevMcRev · 22nd June 2007, 10:39 PM

That looks like a great tool, a little bulky, but i like how its all left on top ready for the next block.

JohN Dee · 25th June 2007, 02:26 PM

The video wouldn't work for me.

Nick, I was just over at your site and was viewing your photo's. They are great photo's, you should start your own thread in the picture forum to show them off to a bigger audience.

Ekka · 25th June 2007, 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohN Dee

The video wouldn't work for me.

This is the direct URL for it, give it a try.

http://www.mydeo.com/asx.asp?CID=903...2348&WMCache=0

JohN Dee · 25th June 2007, 03:46 PM

Quote:

This video is unavailable. The owner may have removed it or it may have expired.

That's what it comes up like.

nick · 7th July 2007, 05:51 AM

Thanks JohN Dee.
Nearly all those pictures were taken by Paddy, who I work with, on a mobile phone. Customers who have seen the website seem to like the fact that it gives them an idea of what can be done for their trees. Explaining it in words just doesn`t cut the mustard.

Tim Craig · 11th July 2007, 06:20 PM

I've seen the Blockdriver in that guy's videos, looks like a great tool!

A sensible idea for an ugly problem, I'm always struggling to push big sections off the spar, that tool makes it look so easy.

Ekka · 10th January 2008, 08:02 PM

Aussie tree workers heads up.

Block driver and felling bar has been sent out to me by Reg.

This is the deal.

It's no doubt a valuable tool, and many might want to try before they buy.

So, what will happen is this. It can do the rounds, if you need it ... post about it here, if you want to try it ... post about it here.

And of course if you want to buy one just say the magic word here and the right people will hook up.

Anyway, I'm going to send it, complete with the DVD and Instruction Manual it comes with down to Melbourne to AceMaster.

We have to keep a running tab on it and write your reviews here.

Conditions of usage/mailing on as follows.

Dont be a slack ass, send it on if some-one wants it ... after all that's how YOU got it. Make sure you get all the persons details so if it goes missing or gets lost we can track it and get up the fool who lost it. Heck, they should even pay Reg for the loss of it afterall he did this at NO COST to any of us.

So, it'll be going to Ace Master down in Melbourne. I haven't used it yet but dont want to sit on it and want YOU people out there to help make Reg rich coz he's a smart good bloke and no-ones thought of this nor made it.

I can tell you it's very well made, beautifully finished and honestly I'm disappointed not to give it a go but I'm inundated with shit sticks to cut!

Alrighty then, be fair, be honest and keep a track on where it is. I'll get it away in the next few days, have Ace's details etc. He will use it and write about it ... maybe even buy it and we get Reg to send another. The only reason this wont work is because some-one let their end of the bargain down.

Use it and move it if some-one wants it, easy.

a_lopa · 10th January 2008, 08:08 PM

Send it my way after Ace Master

Therrin · 10th January 2008, 08:42 PM

Maybe if he's interested in advertising it in two different countries, and has another to spare, he could send one to the USA mates to do the same with?

Just an idea, I'm not asking for it cuz I don't need it at the moment, but if someone's got big stuff goin on out here, you could get twice as much input, as well as a good sales opportunity.

allmarktree · 14th January 2008, 04:44 AM

What is the cost to purchaase it? How much does it weigh? Maybe its not too expensive to ship it here.

RC1 · 15th January 2008, 03:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Therrin

Maybe if he's interested in advertising it in two different countries, and has another to spare, he could send one to the USA mates to do the same with?

Just an idea, I'm not asking for it cuz I don't need it at the moment, but if someone's got big stuff goin on out here, you could get twice as much input, as well as a good sales opportunity.

There's one out there already... but that situation apears to have turned into a farce. It has cost me a considerable amount of money, time and also a spot in a trade magazine over here, so embarrassment on top of that also.

Misplaced trust on my part it appears, so ultimately my fault!

There is still one guy out of the group that I hope might yet get his hands on it, and perhaps salvage the situation, but I?ve not heard from him in a while so its not looking good.

Problem is Therrin, I'm running a little low on stock now so I can?t really afford to send any more out at the risk of missing a sale, but if that AWOL sample does resurface then I'll do my best to aim it in your direction. Mark, it cost me about ₤60 to send over, combined weight with bar and package is just under 10kg

Eric, thanks for your effort, input, encouragement and sincerity thus far man

Therrin · 15th January 2008, 12:25 PM

Gotcha...

If you send it in my direction, I'll promise safe-keeping, till you can find someone else who needs it out here. I haven't as-of-yet had the opportunity to block down stuff that I'd need one for. But if you get the mess sorted out I'd hold onto it for ya. Maybe find someone who could try it.

newguy18 · 16th January 2008, 01:16 PM

Other than the occasional monster oak[I did one 2 years ago drop and leave]I'd have no need for one.

Ace Master · 1st February 2008, 09:40 AM

Ekka
The block driver has arrived,

going out today to test it out.

thanks
Ace Master.

Ekka · 1st February 2008, 02:36 PM

I didn't send instruction manual and DVD ... it'll be in the first post.

Grizzly · 24th February 2008, 05:01 PM

A block driver? another thing to put in the war box for urban felling and lagre timber. What happen to pushing the blocks off with a angled cut. on big stuff like that I usually cut it small enough so when it hit the ground my ground crew can pick it up and push it to the truck. cool tool though. I awt to go look further into. thats the first I ever heard of it. I know that a trunk
4' in diamiter would be a real pain without some sort of wedge or block giving some leverage. Looks good

treevet · 26th February 2008, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grizzly

A block driver? another thing to put in the war box for urban felling and lagre timber. What happen to pushing the blocks off with a angled cut. on big stuff like that I usually cut it small enough so when it hit the ground my ground crew can pick it up and push it to the truck. cool tool though. I awt to go look further into. thats the first I ever heard of it. I know that a trunk
4' in diamiter would be a real pain without some sort of wedge or block giving some leverage. Looks good

Taking a 3 or 4 foot dia chunk w/out this tool would be effected in this way.
As said above, cut on an angle with an 088, 090, 066, etc and plenty of bar so no question about cut being completed on side.

The angle would be a little more than 45 degrees downward obviously. Once the saw is buried about half way in stop cutting and put brake on. Insert 3 twig pieces that you have to force into the cut and will go in at least half an inch, one in each back rear side and one in the middle (we re using twigs because chasing a damn wedge or 2 or finding them from previous cut is slow and tedious). We re putting the twigs in because the saw WILL get stuck or kickback otherwise.

Once the twigs are fitted start cutting again and make the cut finish right where you want the chunk to fall by feathering the trigger.

At this point, you take one hand off the saw and put it on the top side (not top) of the piece and exert pressure. Position your body so if kick back then it could not hit your body. When wobble is noticed, then stop feathering the trigger and just as the cut is about to be finished, kick the throttle in the ass and push the 3 or 4 foot by 3 or 4 foot length piece (any longer and it will fall back and crush you without you being able to overpower it).
It will slide off like on rollerskates, and your body positioning or picker location will allow the 090 or 088 or whatever to swing like a pendulem not cutting any legs or arms off while being held with one hand (OMG).

This is the way I would make thousands of big chunk cuts a year over decades if it was legal and if I didn t have that slow ass looking device.

RC1 · 26th February 2008, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by treevet

that slow ass looking device.

LOL?.trust me therrin, its faster than it looks when you?re using it and there are obviously shortcuts to what you see in this instructional video.

I don?t doubt for a second you have indeed pushed off thousands of chunks in the way you?ve described, but you?re obviously an experienced cutter, who has the ability to improvise, however I certainly would trust a newby with methodology that you?ve written down here. The blockdriver, on the other hand is pretty much idiot proof.

Also, while sloping/angled cuts will put something on the floor you do end up having to cut through more wood, off grain?.consider a 6 foot section and that?s a lot of wood; Such sections are near impossible to rig, difficult to split and you obviously can?t roll them anywhere once they?re on the floor (another incentive for cutting them deep unless you?re right next to the truck).

While cutting wood of a substantial diameter, ridges can often occur for various reasons so you don?t always get the flat surface needed to slide the section across. When this does happen, even if you cut the piece shallow it won?t be sliding anywhere. The blockdriver raises the load above such snags, so even with a real bad cutter at the rein this tool will work the chunk off.

So there is a little more forethought to the method than simply putting a chunk on the floor, and apart from a recent chain-breaking incident, there have been otherwise excellent feedback.

Thanks for the interest and comments, they?re greatly appreciated

Therrin · 26th February 2008, 06:14 PM

Why was that directed at me??? I didn't do it this time! I've been quiet!!
(I know...hard to imagine!)

I actually think it's pointless to argue *against* something that has pointedly great potential for people who *arent* as skilled, agile, and practiced as others are.

If it allows some to safely do something that they are not otherwise safely able to manage, then it's an advancement in the climbing arborist industry.

allmarktree · 26th February 2008, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by treevet

Taking a 3 or 4 foot dia chunk w/out this tool would be effected in this way.
As said above, cut on an angle with an 088, 090, 066, etc and plenty of bar so no question about cut being completed on side.

The angle would be a little more than 45 degrees downward obviously. Once the saw is buried about half way in stop cutting and put brake on. Insert 3 twig pieces that you have to force into the cut and will go in at least half an inch, one in each back rear side and one in the middle (we re using twigs because chasing a damn wedge or 2 or finding them from previous cut is slow and tedious). We re putting the twigs in because the saw WILL get stuck or kickback otherwise.

Once the twigs are fitted start cutting again and make the cut finish right where you want the chunk to fall by feathering the trigger.

At this point, you take one hand off the saw and put it on the top side (not top) of the piece and exert pressure. Position your body so if kick back then it could not hit your body. When wobble is noticed, then stop feathering the trigger and just as the cut is about to be finished, kick the throttle in the ass and push the 3 or 4 foot by 3 or 4 foot length piece (any longer and it will fall back and crush you without you being able to overpower it).
It will slide off like on rollerskates, and your body positioning or picker location will allow the 090 or 088 or whatever to swing like a pendulem not cutting any legs or arms off while being held with one hand (OMG).

This is the way I would make thousands of big chunk cuts a year over decades if it was legal and if I didn t have that slow ass looking device.

This is the worst advise Ive heard givin. So many unsafe acts. Feathering the throttle increases the risk of kickback.1 handing the saw to swing like a pendulum...there is no control there either.If you dont want to use the devise why not use a snap cut where you can have safe control of the saw at all times.
I also have my wedges on a teathe so I dont have to chase them. Its easier than collecting twigs.

Ekka · 26th February 2008, 10:59 PM

Thanks Allmark.

So Treevet ... would the operator also be cutting on a downward slope toward their flip line and ropes?

treevet · 27th February 2008, 12:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ekka

Thanks Allmark.

So Treevet ... would the operator also be cutting on a downward slope toward their flip line and ropes?

I listed this quote so poss if another post is coming in this will hold it back land I won t appear to miss addressing it?

RC1, you mention eneven cuts causing snags. This never happens as it actually helps by lessening surface tension and they ALWAYS slide off. (with enough angle cut, but not too much).

As for the device in this scenario, you obviously are using just 1 unit and outside of the perfect results that are portrayed in the video I watched, I see 2 potential misfires, one mentioned by you (chain breaking).

1. The ridges you described or uneven pressure make the device/wood location a pivot point and the piece starts going sideways. If you had 2 devices spread apart it would eliminate the pivot and you could alternate jack them (but the time, cost....). Once it goes sideways, how do you get it back? Another device? If a piece falls off sideways it could be disaster sometimes.

2. The broken chain scenario......You ve cut through the piece horizontally. You ve got it jacked up in the rear. What about the front? When you finish the cut, 1000 lbs of piece (the example) is on the saw blade (in my hypothetical cut it is not, the whole works goes). Is this how the chain broke? Trying to pull out a stuck bar? I guess you just jack the entire combo off (saw/piece) although it does not show that in video. The saw could get involved in rigging if it is there.

To Allmark: As for this being "the worst advice......" This is NOT advice. Also, feathering the trigger does not increase kickback, the upper quad of the bar tip hitting an object does. As for snap cut......you are not going to push over a 1000 piece. You would have to be able to upright and force over or in effect be able to bench press 1000 lbs. No one can that I know of. As for the twigs.....They are all that is nec to retain the opening of the cut. I would put 20 or 30 in pocket if climbing, and there is always some on bucket floor.

Ekka, yes you are cutting more in the direction of lanyard than horizontal cut. This just requires more attention to rope/cut relationship. Also always have 2 tie ins. The second one is climbing line cinched up, well below the lanyard. Then when you can slam the stick, you can set a pull rope or two and bale out.

Listen, I know a big investment in time and $ has been put forth. I should have been more sensitive and skipped the last 5 words of my post. Do wish Therrin would quit going off like that

. You handle criticism well RC!.

I wouldn t trust a newby with this cut (or anyone, I am not advocating this cut for ANYONE!). But at the same time, a newby has no place up there making these large cuts and using a large displacement saw. Ofcourse this is now illegal (my old school cut) so it is for no one. Hence, enter the "Blockpusher".

As for making more work on the ground, cutting for firewood and splitting, I am assuming there is a lifting machine of some type on the job.

Pieces of this size go to the recycle center (dump) where they can figure what to do with them (100 $ load).

RC1 · 27th February 2008, 02:07 AM

Sorry Therrin, I wrote that reply over my porage (breakfast) and rushed it so I could get out of the door, you know how it is first thing!

As for handling critisism therrin....sorry, I mean treevet.....well I dont really take it that way, not on this particular forum anyhow, so its all fair game mate.

However, you may have misunderstood what I meant by uneven-cuts, so Im going to have to go away and draw some $hit down now!! But I have time so its cool.

Oh and when I said chain breakage, I meant a chain in the device not a saw chain.

I'll be back later

allmarktree · 27th February 2008, 02:40 AM

A chainsaw is meant to be operated at full throttle. Using it at less than full throttle increases the chance of kickback.
A snap cut can work Especially if you have wedges in the back. If you make a snap cut with a downward cut you are suggesting you could still stow the saw before pushing the piece.
I can bench press1000# with the proper tools and knowledge.

newguy18 · 27th February 2008, 03:03 AM

or with your crane.

RC1 · 27th February 2008, 04:10 AM

Ok, I used a picture to explain what I meant by uneven cuts.

If I sink the saw in at point X and walk my way around the tree (moving to the left) to finish at point Z, it wouldn?t be unheard of for my cuts to take a route similar to that of the purple line, not matching up (uneven). Obviously lots of reasons why this can happen i.e. guide-bar length (short, sometimes even too long on a horizontal cut), poor chain condition, wood grain, etc, I shouldn?t really have to elaborate on this but for anyone who is able to avoid this kind of cutting in the tree then just compare the scenario to flushing off a large stump at ground level.

Anyhow, between the two cuts on the drawing there is now a ridge, and point Z has unfortunately finished above X on this occasion, so that sucker aint going to slide in my intended direction (arrow) without first being raised. This is overcome by the provisions I described earlier, and so on and so forth?.

Pieces sliding off sideways: There are obviously guidelines on how to avoid this which are all in the instructional manual but all tools/techniques still have limitations and require a degree of familiarity and common sense.

The saw getting trapped under the wood: The method recommends that you complete the horizontal cut by 95%, this is kept open by a wedge (see video) and then finish off the remaining 5% by cutting just below so that the two cuts bypass each other. You may feel a slight pinch on the second cut but no big deal really. Incidentally, that particular sequence on the video was taken from 2 different sections which why one is smaller than the other, poor camera work I?m afraid but we still managed to salvage the sequence somewhat.

As for assuming that we have access with a truck and loader etc then don?t. If that were the case then a smart person would obviously be looking to sneak a crane in. Think, confinement, rigging, poor access, rough terrain etc, all or either and the qualities of this particular method begin to make sense.

Hey, I?m not trying to tell people what they?ve been doing is right or wrong, it?s none of my business after-all. But from a personal perspective, its not enough for me to just manage, somehow?.I try to utilize all the resources that are available and waste nothing in the process, especially energy. So there lies this man's primary incentive, the fact that a product evolved was only secondary.

Treevet, you referred to an illegal cut in your method, what do you mean, illegal ?

Mark, I will push off smaller stuff as I try not to make a meal out of a job if it can be otherwise avoided..... but as oppossed to actual bench-pressing, you have no upper-back support/leverage from a harness so I couldn't risk the sort of injury that might incur....I already have a bad neck

treevet · 27th February 2008, 09:30 AM

You have things pictured in your mind and I have things pictured in my mind's eye. Sometimes they are hard to convey. This picture is a poor example because if you cut 95 % through, some part of this piece is going to sit heavy on the bar because it is so fractured. I don t know what is above the picture of this beech but if it ends there and you are going to just start a horizontal cut through this broken piece, I d have to say, good luck.

I guess I have not conveyed what cut I make on large dia pieces to you so I am giving up and good luck to you on sales of your product.

Just want to add that for about 4 decades I have done most of the large removals in my niche area. Many bid on these jobs but only a couple of us are capable of handling the truly most difficult takedowns and always end up doing them, no matter what the bids are. Just wanted to represent the technique that I have developed and used with never any injury or property damage. It has been rendered "illegal" by disallowing the use of one hand while running a power saw.

13th June 2007, 10:49 PM	#1
Ekka Admin - Dip Arb & Hort & Seldom Wrong Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane Posts: 9,791	Block Driver - if you are blocking down big wood then you need this tool The Block Driver You have removed the canopy and working your way down the trunk. It's 3' diameter and you are cutting 12" sections, each weighing around 450lbs. Pushing these off is near impossible... Until now. Invented by a treeman, Reg Coates, the Block Driver is inserted under the cut section and simply ratcheted off the trunk. Simple and effective. See for yourself in this video of the Block Driver in action. See how easily a large section is pushed off one handed! This brilliant tool is available from Australia and New Zealand Arborist Supplies. Save your back and increase your productivity with the Block Driver. A copy of the instruction manual can be downloaded here 2mb __________________ TAS Training & Assessment Services\| Arb and Hort Training available here Free Online Tree Value Calculator by TreeWorld Free Online TPZ and SRZ AS4970-2009 Calculator by TreeWorld Free Online Tree Surface Area and Tree Volume Calculator by TreeWorld Free Tree and Green Industry Deep Link Directory ... Yes, I also SEO (Optimize) and build websites that fly high in Google Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping \| Stump Grinding Brisbane Brisbane - Gold Coast Consulting Arborist, Tree and Arborist Reports \| Project Arborist

16th June 2007, 06:11 AM	#2
nick Sappling Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Manchester uk Posts: 11	BlockDriver Hi Ekka, I used the BlockDriver this morning on a large poplar trunk that needed felling. Access was very limited. We only had one spot to drop all the blocks and then roll them out through a hole in the hedge. The stem had quite a lean and, as it happened, it was leaning the wrong way; away from my drop zone.This meant I was under the lean to move the blocks in the desired direction. Usually, I find this part of the job very tiring. With this new device, however, it was an absolute joy to be able to push the blocks (much bigger than I would have normally cut) under control and in an otherwise awkward direction. This smart tool saves a heap of time and work. http://www.nickbaileytreeservices.co.uk

16th June 2007, 08:00 AM	#3
Ekka Admin - Dip Arb & Hort & Seldom Wrong Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane Posts: 9,791	That's great, can only imagine the PITA it would have been to try get them off other ways. You'll have to get some pics and maybe vids guys when using this device and stick them in this thread so others can see the savings. __________________ TAS Training & Assessment Services\| Arb and Hort Training available here Free Online Tree Value Calculator by TreeWorld Free Online TPZ and SRZ AS4970-2009 Calculator by TreeWorld Free Online Tree Surface Area and Tree Volume Calculator by TreeWorld Free Tree and Green Industry Deep Link Directory ... Yes, I also SEO (Optimize) and build websites that fly high in Google Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping \| Stump Grinding Brisbane Brisbane - Gold Coast Consulting Arborist, Tree and Arborist Reports \| Project Arborist

22nd June 2007, 10:39 PM	#4
TrevMcRev Sponsor Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia. Posts: 1,433	That looks like a great tool, a little bulky, but i like how its all left on top ready for the next block. __________________ Total Tree Care - Melbourne Arborist Reports & Consulting,Tree Pruning & Removal \| Elm Leaf Beetle Treatment Melbourne www.treegear.com.au - Australia's Best Value Arborist Supplies

25th June 2007, 02:26 PM	#5
JohN Dee Moderator - Sponsor Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Sydney, Australia Posts: 930	The video wouldn't work for me. Nick, I was just over at your site and was viewing your photo's. They are great photo's, you should start your own thread in the picture forum to show them off to a bigger audience. __________________ The bigger the dreams, the smaller the competition Red : Green : Blue

7th July 2007, 05:51 AM	#8
nick Sappling Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Manchester uk Posts: 11	Thanks JohN Dee. Nearly all those pictures were taken by Paddy, who I work with, on a mobile phone. Customers who have seen the website seem to like the fact that it gives them an idea of what can be done for their trees. Explaining it in words just doesn`t cut the mustard. __________________ Tree Surgeon Manchester

11th July 2007, 06:20 PM	#9
Tim Craig Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Glasgow, Scotland Posts: 121	I've seen the Blockdriver in that guy's videos, looks like a great tool! A sensible idea for an ugly problem, I'm always struggling to push big sections off the spar, that tool makes it look so easy.

10th January 2008, 08:02 PM	#10
Ekka Admin - Dip Arb & Hort & Seldom Wrong Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane Posts: 9,791	Aussie Arborists Heads UP Aussie tree workers heads up. Block driver and felling bar has been sent out to me by Reg. This is the deal. It's no doubt a valuable tool, and many might want to try before they buy. So, what will happen is this. It can do the rounds, if you need it ... post about it here, if you want to try it ... post about it here. And of course if you want to buy one just say the magic word here and the right people will hook up. Anyway, I'm going to send it, complete with the DVD and Instruction Manual it comes with down to Melbourne to AceMaster. We have to keep a running tab on it and write your reviews here. Conditions of usage/mailing on as follows. Dont be a slack ass, send it on if some-one wants it ... after all that's how YOU got it. Make sure you get all the persons details so if it goes missing or gets lost we can track it and get up the fool who lost it. Heck, they should even pay Reg for the loss of it afterall he did this at NO COST to any of us. So, it'll be going to Ace Master down in Melbourne. I haven't used it yet but dont want to sit on it and want YOU people out there to help make Reg rich coz he's a smart good bloke and no-ones thought of this nor made it. I can tell you it's very well made, beautifully finished and honestly I'm disappointed not to give it a go but I'm inundated with shit sticks to cut! Alrighty then, be fair, be honest and keep a track on where it is. I'll get it away in the next few days, have Ace's details etc. He will use it and write about it ... maybe even buy it and we get Reg to send another. The only reason this wont work is because some-one let their end of the bargain down. Use it and move it if some-one wants it, easy. __________________ TAS Training & Assessment Services\| Arb and Hort Training available here Free Online Tree Value Calculator by TreeWorld Free Online TPZ and SRZ AS4970-2009 Calculator by TreeWorld Free Online Tree Surface Area and Tree Volume Calculator by TreeWorld Free Tree and Green Industry Deep Link Directory ... Yes, I also SEO (Optimize) and build websites that fly high in Google Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping \| Stump Grinding Brisbane Brisbane - Gold Coast Consulting Arborist, Tree and Arborist Reports \| Project Arborist

10th January 2008, 08:08 PM	#11
a_lopa Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Australia Posts: 1,307	Re: Block Driver - if you are blocking down big wood then you need this tool Send it my way after Ace Master __________________ Drouin Tree Services and Excavator Hire \| Excavator Hire - Drouin and SE Gippsland

10th January 2008, 08:42 PM	#12
Therrin Tree World Ninja Monkey Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca Posts: 2,554	Re: Block Driver - if you are blocking down big wood then you need this tool Maybe if he's interested in advertising it in two different countries, and has another to spare, he could send one to the USA mates to do the same with? Just an idea, I'm not asking for it cuz I don't need it at the moment, but if someone's got big stuff goin on out here, you could get twice as much input, as well as a good sales opportunity.

14th January 2008, 04:44 AM	#13
allmarktree Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Albany, New York Posts: 130	Re: Block Driver - if you are blocking down big wood then you need this tool What is the cost to purchaase it? How much does it weigh? Maybe its not too expensive to ship it here.

15th January 2008, 12:25 PM	#15
Therrin Tree World Ninja Monkey Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca Posts: 2,554	Re: Block Driver - if you are blocking down big wood then you need this tool Gotcha... If you send it in my direction, I'll promise safe-keeping, till you can find someone else who needs it out here. I haven't as-of-yet had the opportunity to block down stuff that I'd need one for. But if you get the mess sorted out I'd hold onto it for ya. Maybe find someone who could try it.

16th January 2008, 01:16 PM	#16
newguy18 Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: orlando,fl Posts: 5,206	Re: Block Driver - if you are blocking down big wood then you need this tool Other than the occasional monster oak[I did one 2 years ago drop and leave]I'd have no need for one. __________________ Have your say join us today. I ship USA saws out of the USA old schooler

1st February 2008, 09:40 AM	#17
Ace Master Mature tree Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Australia, Vic, Melbourne Posts: 347	Re: Block Driver - if you are blocking down big wood then you need this tool Ekka The block driver has arrived, going out today to test it out. thanks Ace Master. __________________ Website: The Mt Dandenong Ranges Tree Specialists YouTube: Ace Tree Master

1st February 2008, 02:36 PM	#18
Ekka Admin - Dip Arb & Hort & Seldom Wrong Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane Posts: 9,791	Re: Block Driver - if you are blocking down big wood then you need this tool I didn't send instruction manual and DVD ... it'll be in the first post. __________________ TAS Training & Assessment Services\| Arb and Hort Training available here Free Online Tree Value Calculator by TreeWorld Free Online TPZ and SRZ AS4970-2009 Calculator by TreeWorld Free Online Tree Surface Area and Tree Volume Calculator by TreeWorld Free Tree and Green Industry Deep Link Directory ... Yes, I also SEO (Optimize) and build websites that fly high in Google Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping \| Stump Grinding Brisbane Brisbane - Gold Coast Consulting Arborist, Tree and Arborist Reports \| Project Arborist

24th February 2008, 05:01 PM	#19
Grizzly Sappling Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: California Posts: 36	Re: Block Driver - if you are blocking down big wood then you need this tool A block driver? another thing to put in the war box for urban felling and lagre timber. What happen to pushing the blocks off with a angled cut. on big stuff like that I usually cut it small enough so when it hit the ground my ground crew can pick it up and push it to the truck. cool tool though. I awt to go look further into. thats the first I ever heard of it. I know that a trunk 4' in diamiter would be a real pain without some sort of wedge or block giving some leverage. Looks good __________________

26th February 2008, 06:14 PM	#22
Therrin Tree World Ninja Monkey Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca Posts: 2,554	Re: Block Driver - if you are blocking down big wood then you need this tool Why was that directed at me??? I didn't do it this time! I've been quiet!! (I know...hard to imagine!) I actually think it's pointless to argue against something that has pointedly great potential for people who arent as skilled, agile, and practiced as others are. If it allows some to safely do something that they are not otherwise safely able to manage, then it's an advancement in the climbing arborist industry. Last edited by Therrin; 26th February 2008 at 08:37 PM.

26th February 2008, 10:59 PM	#24
Ekka Admin - Dip Arb & Hort & Seldom Wrong Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane Posts: 9,791	Re: Block Driver - if you are blocking down big wood then you need this tool Thanks Allmark. So Treevet ... would the operator also be cutting on a downward slope toward their flip line and ropes? __________________ TAS Training & Assessment Services\| Arb and Hort Training available here Free Online Tree Value Calculator by TreeWorld Free Online TPZ and SRZ AS4970-2009 Calculator by TreeWorld Free Online Tree Surface Area and Tree Volume Calculator by TreeWorld Free Tree and Green Industry Deep Link Directory ... Yes, I also SEO (Optimize) and build websites that fly high in Google Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping \| Stump Grinding Brisbane Brisbane - Gold Coast Consulting Arborist, Tree and Arborist Reports \| Project Arborist

27th February 2008, 02:07 AM	#26
RC1 Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Macclesfield England Posts: 207	Re: Block Driver - if you are blocking down big wood then you need this tool Sorry Therrin, I wrote that reply over my porage (breakfast) and rushed it so I could get out of the door, you know how it is first thing! As for handling critisism therrin....sorry, I mean treevet.....well I dont really take it that way, not on this particular forum anyhow, so its all fair game mate. However, you may have misunderstood what I meant by uneven-cuts, so Im going to have to go away and draw some $hit down now!! But I have time so its cool. Oh and when I said chain breakage, I meant a chain in the device not a saw chain. I'll be back later

27th February 2008, 02:40 AM	#27
allmarktree Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Albany, New York Posts: 130	Re: Block Driver - if you are blocking down big wood then you need this tool A chainsaw is meant to be operated at full throttle. Using it at less than full throttle increases the chance of kickback. A snap cut can work Especially if you have wedges in the back. If you make a snap cut with a downward cut you are suggesting you could still stow the saw before pushing the piece. I can bench press1000# with the proper tools and knowledge.

27th February 2008, 03:03 AM	#28
newguy18 Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: orlando,fl Posts: 5,206	Re: Block Driver - if you are blocking down big wood then you need this tool or with your crane. __________________ Have your say join us today. I ship USA saws out of the USA old schooler

27th February 2008, 09:30 AM	#30
treevet Monument Status Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio, USA Posts: 2,373	Re: Block Driver - if you are blocking down big wood then you need this tool You have things pictured in your mind and I have things pictured in my mind's eye. Sometimes they are hard to convey. This picture is a poor example because if you cut 95 % through, some part of this piece is going to sit heavy on the bar because it is so fractured. I don t know what is above the picture of this beech but if it ends there and you are going to just start a horizontal cut through this broken piece, I d have to say, good luck. I guess I have not conveyed what cut I make on large dia pieces to you so I am giving up and good luck to you on sales of your product. Just want to add that for about 4 decades I have done most of the large removals in my niche area. Many bid on these jobs but only a couple of us are capable of handling the truly most difficult takedowns and always end up doing them, no matter what the bids are. Just wanted to represent the technique that I have developed and used with never any injury or property damage. It has been rendered "illegal" by disallowing the use of one hand while running a power saw.

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