Block Driver - if you are blocking down big wood then you need this tool

RC1

Sorry Therrin, I wrote that reply over my porage (breakfast) and rushed it so I could get out of the door, you know how it is first thing!

As for handling critisism therrin....sorry, I mean treevet.....well I dont really take it that way, not on this particular forum anyhow, so its all fair game mate.

However, you may have misunderstood what I meant by uneven-cuts, so Im going to have to go away and draw some $hit down now!! But I have time so its cool.

Oh and when I said chain breakage, I meant a chain in the device not a saw chain.

I'll be back later

allmarktree

A chainsaw is meant to be operated at full throttle. Using it at less than full throttle increases the chance of kickback.
A snap cut can work Especially if you have wedges in the back. If you make a snap cut with a downward cut you are suggesting you could still stow the saw before pushing the piece.
I can bench press1000# with the proper tools and knowledge.

newguy18

or with your crane.

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RC1

Ok, I used a picture to explain what I meant by uneven cuts.

If I sink the saw in at point X and walk my way around the tree (moving to the left) to finish at point Z, it wouldn?t be unheard of for my cuts to take a route similar to that of the purple line, not matching up (uneven). Obviously lots of reasons why this can happen i.e. guide-bar length (short, sometimes even too long on a horizontal cut), poor chain condition, wood grain, etc, I shouldn?t really have to elaborate on this but for anyone who is able to avoid this kind of cutting in the tree then just compare the scenario to flushing off a large stump at ground level.

Anyhow, between the two cuts on the drawing there is now a ridge, and point Z has unfortunately finished above X on this occasion, so that sucker aint going to slide in my intended direction (arrow) without first being raised. This is overcome by the provisions I described earlier, and so on and so forth?.

Pieces sliding off sideways: There are obviously guidelines on how to avoid this which are all in the instructional manual but all tools/techniques still have limitations and require a degree of familiarity and common sense.

The saw getting trapped under the wood: The method recommends that you complete the horizontal cut by 95%, this is kept open by a wedge (see video) and then finish off the remaining 5% by cutting just below so that the two cuts bypass each other. You may feel a slight pinch on the second cut but no big deal really. Incidentally, that particular sequence on the video was taken from 2 different sections which why one is smaller than the other, poor camera work I?m afraid but we still managed to salvage the sequence somewhat.

As for assuming that we have access with a truck and loader etc then don?t. If that were the case then a smart person would obviously be looking to sneak a crane in. Think, confinement, rigging, poor access, rough terrain etc, all or either and the qualities of this particular method begin to make sense.

Hey, I?m not trying to tell people what they?ve been doing is right or wrong, it?s none of my business after-all. But from a personal perspective, its not enough for me to just manage, somehow?.I try to utilize all the resources that are available and waste nothing in the process, especially energy. So there lies this man's primary incentive, the fact that a product evolved was only secondary.

Treevet, you referred to an illegal cut in your method, what do you mean, illegal ?

Mark, I will push off smaller stuff as I try not to make a meal out of a job if it can be otherwise avoided..... but as oppossed to actual bench-pressing, you have no upper-back support/leverage from a harness so I couldn't risk the sort of injury that might incur....I already have a bad neck

Attached Images

Picture 051.jpg (108.1 KB, 22 views)

treevet

You have things pictured in your mind and I have things pictured in my mind's eye. Sometimes they are hard to convey. This picture is a poor example because if you cut 95 % through, some part of this piece is going to sit heavy on the bar because it is so fractured. I don t know what is above the picture of this beech but if it ends there and you are going to just start a horizontal cut through this broken piece, I d have to say, good luck.

I guess I have not conveyed what cut I make on large dia pieces to you so I am giving up and good luck to you on sales of your product.

Just want to add that for about 4 decades I have done most of the large removals in my niche area. Many bid on these jobs but only a couple of us are capable of handling the truly most difficult takedowns and always end up doing them, no matter what the bids are. Just wanted to represent the technique that I have developed and used with never any injury or property damage. It has been rendered "illegal" by disallowing the use of one hand while running a power saw.

RC1

There was about 70 ft of heavy wood above me so Im not sure luck would have been enough. I cropped this picture to use as an ilustration because it was the only one I could find where I was in a suitable position to add text etc.

I dont doubt your credibility treevet, not for a minute.....and if there is anything else you'd like to ask or point out then please, be my guest, its all objective on treeworld, thats always been the feel of this particular forum!
Giving up, winning or losing doesn't really apply, its just a bunch of guys sharing ideas!

I'm trying to win a big job at present, if it comes off I'll get video as the stem has to be rigged same as the one in this picture (attached) but is a much bigger tree. should make for good viewing if i get it.

Attached Images

web pics 009.jpg (55.2 KB, 22 views)

treevet

I m with you all the way on win/lose and TW. Good luck on bid. Look fwd to seeing video or picts if you get it.

treevet

PS. We re all glad you didn t make that cut with 70 foot of tree above you.

newguy18

That might leave a hole in a clients yard.

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Done it

Or do it this way YouTube - Snag Felling Sept 13/07 Fall No. 2