Whats the biggest bar for this saw??

I Love Firewood

Stihl MS-361? Thanks, I want a great saw to put at least a 32" bar on. Thanks

newguy18

I've heard of people putting a 30" bar on them but i think 25" is pushing it.

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rbtree

To efficiently run "at least" a 32 inch bar, you need a saw with gobs of power. Start with a 70 cc saw and go up from there. Best saw in the 70-80 cc class is the Dolmar 7900, which is torquey and will pull a 32 inch bar in softwoods with aplomb. It's sister saw is the Solo 681, which is 2 cc larger and even stronger. Other outstanding saws in that class are the Husqvarna 372XP, and Stihl MS 460. Newer, cleaner burning saws are the future, and they are the 576 Husky and 441 Stihl...A tad heavier than old models, but they sip the fuel and are cleaner.

But there's no replacement for displacement, and a 90-100 cc saw will be the best for running long bars in any wood, especially hardwood. The 660 Stihl and 390 or 395 Husqvarna are top performers.

A 361 is best fitted with a 18-20 inch bar. Even if it has been fully modified, a 24 inch bar is the most that will work well for fast cutting.

a_lopa

Wouldnt go any more than a 20" like what im running now.

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SawTroll

What the others said.......



.....don't even think of it!

OutofMytree

I have this mental picture of Mr Bean towing a Bandit 1890xp with his Mini.

southsoundtree

I run a 28" skip tooth chain fine in soft woods like fir. I take my time when doing this, as I figure that I'm only taking a few minutes longer, which would not translate to much profit loss as compare to greatly reducing the life of my saw.

My understanding from the Stihl dealer is that it is maxed at this.

check out a MS441 or bigger, especially if you are looking for a stumping saw where you will be running a duller chain (at least by the time you get to the end of a big stump).

Therrin

I've gotta agree with the overall consensus so far.

I actually have 18, 20, 25, 28 and 32" bars for my 361.

While it handles the 28" bar "okay" in soft woods using a skip chain, it's not optimal by any means. I got the 32" bar from someone I bought an alaskan mill from and it happened to come with the 32" Stihl bar and chain. Haven't tried it with the 361 yet. Seems overkill.

The 20" and 25" seem to work really well with it.


So if you want something you can run a 32" bar with, like others mentioned, i'd go 441 at the very LEAST, but maybe like a 660 would do well.

Mike Glynn

I just put a 24" bar on a Husky 61 (4.1 hp). I think the MS361 has 4.3 hp according to the Stihl catalogue. Also the longest bar recommended is the 25".

Just before dark I cut down a 36" soft maple without any problems and crosscut the whole thing in less than hour. My main bar for the Husky 61 though is the 18". So I think you could run a 32" only on an occasional basis on that saw and not push it very hard.

This is my third year of burning about 15 cords, and I think I want to eventually get a 441 or even a 660 Stihl. The Husky 395 and 385 can also handle long bars. I priced a 441 with a 32" bar, it was $840 new. Guess I will stick with my 61 for a bit.

treevet

I wouldn't run a 32" on a saw that small. 660 size category is probably the best match you mentioned as 44 (Stihl) size is even too small IMO.

SawTroll

The German made MS361s have 4.6hp.

Mike Glynn

I was wrong the USA catalogue shows 4.4hp for the 361; 4.3hp is shown for the 390.

I went back the the 36" maple to make a few final cuts and the stump with the 24" bar on the Husky 61. Right as I was finishing up the stump cut, I broke the darn handle where the trigger is. Has anyone every tried fixing plastic with epoxy? Or should I get a new gas tank/handle assembly? I found an after market for $55; and an OEM for $85.

Therrin

OEM....worth the $$.

Epoxy is crap for anything you put that much stress on on a daily basis.

Mike Glynn

I think your right, epoxy would be a waste of time. I need to do something about my tank vent now anyhow. Runs for 5 minutes at a time, then open fuel cap, 5 more minutes..... Dunka

Bruce Hopf

Here is a Web Sites to look at, and Recommend what size of Bars will fit your Chain Saws, no matter what Make, or Model you might have.
These are very helpful, and take the Guess Work out of it, and are very easy,m and straight forward to use. Hope this helps everyone. Bruce.
Oregon Cutting Systems, world leader in chainsaw chain, guide bars, and sprockets .

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2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

Bruce Hopf

I used JD Weld to fix a cracked Handle for my Stihl 044, with great success. Bruce.

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McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

jred630bb

I wouldnt go longer than 24" on this saw with a full comp chain. get at least a ms 460 or bigger for a 32". Rick!