what chain grinders are you guys useing?

Straw

Hi All.
I am in the market for a chain grinder ( I think ). I am wondering what you guys are using. I have looked around and found several that seam to fit the bill but not really sure if I should go with a big dollar one or if maybe I can find a economical one that will do the job. I read a thread here about sharpening but do not seam to find the poll anymore. I used to hand file but the chain never lasted as long as when I had them done at the shop. I am far far away from any place that can sharpen chain now and think I want a grinder. Any info or tips / help would be great.

Thanks in advance for any and all constructive replies.

Straw

Therrin

I found a thread that had quite a bit of talk about chain grinders, if you're interested in reading through it.

Chain filing - sharpening chainsaw| sharpen chain video

Bruce Hopf

I have a Tecomec FL 136, and it is a great outfit. I love it, and I've had it for over 6 years. If I was going to buy another one to replace this one, or do it all over again, I'd get on with the automatic clamp, that clamps the chain into place, as you bring the power head down.
Other than that, saves a lot of time when it come to sharpening a few chains, at a time. I can sharpen 8 - 20" chains in an hour, with my grinder, as to 4 chains an hour, with a filing guide, that clamps on the bar of the chain saw.
Tecomec is made in the exact same factory as Oregon, but you are buying the name, when you go with an Oregon. Both are built the roughly, or exactly the same. Bruce.

__________________
McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

Straw

Thanks for the help guys. I just bought one of them bar filing jigs for now and I still haven't got the hang of it. lol. Has anyone ever use one of these or one of the ones that is a bench mount file guide? It basically screw locks to your bar and has angle / depth settings with a chain stop etc. I tried it and it did not file both sides the same for some reason. None of the grinders cut the gullet the same profile as a file correct?

Thanks in advance for the help guys.

Straw

Bruce Hopf

When sharpening with the grinder,the gullet is more straighter, and with the file, you have a more rounded gullet. You can adjust the power head, from 90 Degrees, to 40 Degrees.
If you set your power head at a 50 degree angle, it is pretty close to the gullet, of a new chain.
Some chain manufactures, recommend to have the power head of the grinder at 60 degrees, for a little more hook. I hope this helps you out a bit. Bruce.

__________________
McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

rick

An Oregon/Tecomec/Precision Tooling jig ? (all come out of the same factory in Italy)

Seems like they just don't file the same height side to side. I thought it must have been mine, I had to reset the file height side to side to get the hook the same, but I've read that most that use them have found the same thing.
Not sure how good the Granberg and Stihl versions are, hopefully a lot better.

If you use Carlton chain, I really like their File-O-Plate. it's easy to get the right angle and file height, and it is without doubt the best way to set your raker height I've seen. I've also used it on Oregon, and a mate uses it to set the rakers on Windsor chain too. I'll be trialing it on osme Windsor soon.
Great little gizmo.

Straw

Thanks for the post's guys!

Rick, I am so glad you posted that info. I had tried it on another older chain to the letter of the directions and had the same exact thing happen. The profile of the left and right side where different. I kept thinking what am I doing wrong. Now I understand I need to set the depth for each side. Seams kind of weird that this could happen. If the cut angle settings are the same and the filing stop doesn't change how could the depth be different? I think I will try to use one of them "clip on" file angle/depth gauge things to set the depth for each side now and see how it goes. ( I will clip it on just to set the depth then remove it prior to filing) Hopefully that will fix the issue. I already noticed you need to use pliers to tighten the setting screws for the angles or it has more play than the increments show. I am wondering if the bench mount version of this device isn't more precise and accurate.

Thanks again for the replies so far.

Straw

Bruce Hopf

I think that it is the way, that the wheel hits the raker's. One side is closer to the center of the grinding wheel, that side of the raker's on that side closest to the center of the wheel, will be lower that the raker's on the opposite side. That is what I found. I had the same trouble, and that is what I discovered.
What I do now, is I use a flat edge, place it across two of the raker's, on the same side of the chain, and with a feller gauge (not fell her guages ), to determine where .025" is. Then I set the height of the power head, and tilt the power head 10 Degrees, do all the raker's on one side of the chain, at 0.025".
I then reset the power head so I'll keep my 0.025 on the outside, and do the rest of the raker's. Then both sides are equal, in high th for the raker's. I also have the chain vise set at 90 degrees as well. Bruce.

__________________
McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

ALAIN LAMOTHE

I 've had the Oregon model for years without problems.

MCW

Hi fellas.
I know a few of you guys here from AS but couldn't resist registering and posting when a thread is about grinders. Rick would have heard this all before from AS but I had nothing but problems with my MAXX grinder. Many people praise them up but I wonder whether they've ever checked angles etc etc. I bought a Speed Sharp Auto as a backup for my business and within 4 weeks I had sold my MAXX it was that bad. The Speed Sharp showed what true consistency should be like.
If the turntable/design of the MAXX was actually symmetrical I think they would be a good grinder but having to change every single setting when changing sides got tiring. I also like a unit that actually grinds to 30° when set to 30°, not grind to 23° or 33° depending on how you locked the turntable.
If looking for a good grinder you can't go past the Speed Sharp/Oregon units (same manufacturer) but whether you need an auto vice clamp depends on how deep your pockets are or how many chains you sharpen. Certainly a worthwhile feature in a business situation.

Bruce Hopf

I have seen very similar things happen like what has happened with your grinder. I know that sometimes the jigs, of the presses, and machines that manufactures use, to make a product, or a part, gets out of alignment, and of coarse, the product, or part isn't true, or accurate, to what it is supposed to be.
Holes don't line up, for mounting something, on a machine, you name it. It happens almost everyday.
If a worker at a factory, is only there for a pay cheque, and doesn't give a crap, to see weather or not his machine, or press is set up right at the factory, or what the product looks like, when it leaves his press, or machine.
Another thing, I know that could have happened, is that quality control operate, who is also there for a pay cheque, didn't feel like doing his job, as he was supposed to, and allowed a faulty product, slip by.
When I used to be a transport truck driver, I seen that happen so many times. Makes a customer, at the other end not happy, with the product, that he had bought. It's not the fault of the grinder, it is the fault of the employees, building the grinder.
Also welcome here at Tree World. Bruce.

__________________
McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

treevet

I have had a Stihl grinder for maybe 25 years and it works well. It is on a stand and I find that much better than a bench as it is movable but stable.

I just mainly do rakers with it unless a chain has taken a heavy hit on something.

Louis

Northern Industrial Bench or Wall-Mount Saw Chain Sharpener | Chain Saw Sharpeners, Maintenance + Repair | Northern Tool + Equipment
This is a Chinese copy of an Oregon 511. It is supposed to be such a good copy parts are interchangeable. It was huge at AS. The fit and finish aren't up to Oregon standards but a thread discusses a few recommended improvements. At $100.00 ± I’m willing to tweak a few items. The discussion about this grinder follows.
http://www.????????????.com/showthre...t=39995&page=3
Lou

Louis

Let's try this again, discussion.
http://www.????????????.com/showthre...t=39995&page=3
Lou

Louis

The ?????????? link to a different arborist web site.

You all saw the light come on didn't you.

treevet

Don't think you are allowed to link to another Arb. site. Makes sense to me.

rick

You can't link to any 'rival' sites from AS, you can't even mention them, even in PM's, they are censored.....

I'm guessing ekka's just returning the favour.

treevet

I once posted a picture of 2 books I was talking about on AS with a Tree World hat with the logo plain as day and Ekka thought I would get dinged but they let it go to their favor. haha

Bruce Hopf

There isn't much over there worth anything anyway, besides a bunch of B.S. Bruce.

__________________
McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

Joe Kelly

Hi to everyone!
I am new to the forum and new to wood cutting, having been at it just the last few years since moving to a place that I can enjoy a wood stove and have lots of free wood for the bucking and splitting. I only do firewood for myself, with two small Huskys (a 334 and a 340).

I found this forum with a search for saw chain grinders and I learned much already just from reading this thread.

Straw’s lead off for the thread is exactly where I am right now….I want to buy a grinder. I’ve been using a friend’s grinder, which is an Oregon but I don’t know the model….it does have a 10 degree tilt on the vise which is needed for chisel chain. I’ve shapened my chains and the chains for my buddy’s Johnsereds but I’ve come to where I want the convenience of the grinder in my shop at home.

I jumped on an Oregon 310A for only $260 but sent it back when I saw it had no vise tilt.

You folks have provided a LOT of info: I learned the Tecomec factory in Italy makes the Oregon grinders and others such as the Tecomec FL-136, EFCO (I think), and even the Jolly Star.

I like the look of the Jolly Star 1136 9001 and wonder what do you folks think of the unit.

The Oregon 511AX does not mention a tilt vise in the brochure; I can’t tell from the pic if it has the tilt vise. I think this grinder compares with the Tecomec FL-136 and the Jolly Star 1136 9001.

Thank you for any comments, pros and cons….I welcome them before I go spending $360 !

JoeK

Cut4fun

I use a Stihl USG when I have a bunch of chains that have to go out quickly or rocked out chains.

Bruce Hopf

Hi Joe.
I've used my Tecomec grinder for a quite a few years, and if I had to buy it all over again, I'd get the one step up, from what I have now. The one up, has the automatic vise, when you pull the handle of the power head down, it locks the vise, for the chain.
For doing the cutters, even for a chisel chain, you want to have your power head, at a 60 degree tilt, and the chain vise set at a 30 degree cut, for the top plate of the cutter.
For doing the rakers, you want to have your power head set at a 80 degree tilt, and the vise set at 90 degrees. Make sure, you do only one side of the chain, using a feeler gauge, and a straight edge, across tow rakers of the same side of the chain, from 0.025", which the chain manufactures call for, but nothing more than 0.030", other wise your chain saw won't be able to pull the chain through, without too much bog down, or lugging.
I have the rakers cut down to 0.035", but all my chain saws had been modified, peaked and tuned, for better power, and performance, as I cut fire wood for myself, and selling, and at the end of the day, I have a fair bit more cut, as I need to, for health reasons.

__________________
McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

Joe Kelly

Thanks, Bruce, I'll sure look into the Tecomec FL 136 based on your recommendation. I won't spend the extra for the hydraulic vise...a nice thing but I'm only doing chains for myself....two saws. You run a lot of saws and have a lot of chain to sharpen; you kind of need the time saving auto vise!

I'm still hoping to get some feedback on the Jolly Star...if anyone has tried that grinder....made by Tecomec, as is the Oregon ginder, I believe.

JoeK

Bruce Hopf

I don't know too much about the Jolly Star. It could have replaced the Mini Jolly bench grinder, for all I know. The FL136 (which I have), is the Jolly bench grinder, and the Super Jolly bench grinder, is the one with the hydraulic chain vise.
I had worked with an Oregon chain sharpeners before, in a saw shop that I had worked at, and it is pretty much, the exact same machine, that I have here, but a bit more expencive, than of mine, as you are paying for a name. Hope this helps a bit. Bruce.

__________________
McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

Joe Kelly

Thank you, Bruce and everyone!

An Italian factory makes various grinders including the big name Oregon. A dealer I discussed grinders with, says the factory produces various levels of grinders...depending on specs and the name it is selling under. He happens to think the Maxx is top shelf but I don't have the big bucks so am going with the Oregon 511AX which he says is better than the Oregon 510 as they use a better (costlier) motor for the 511. Also, the 511 has the ten degree vise tilt recommeded for chisel chain.

The Tecomec website shows only Jolly Star grinders...so I am thinking the Tecomec morphed into the Jolly Star name.

I really appreciate the ginding tips from that thread....I don't know that I'll get my chains "that clean" but I do slosh them in diesel and hang them to dry before grinding. Good point about dressing the wheel often just to remove the steel bits and the oil gunk that will accumulate.

Also to grind lightly and not "blue" the cutter which will ruin the temper and hardness. I've learned to grind very little and go around the chain several times to bring a very dull chain back.

Great information here....I'll be spending time in other areas....such as how not to pinch a saw and need a second saw to get the first one out....or a third saw to get the second one out and then the first one....

Later, folks, stay safe when running our favorite toys!

Joe K