Stihl MS361 upgrades and options

windthrown · 7th February 2009, 04:48 PM

Here is a thread with some options and features that I know of on the MS 361 and some information on sizes of bars, rims and chains that I run on my 361s, etc. Please, this is not a 361 praise or bashing thread, just an information thread. If you know of any other 361 options, features or mods, please add them here.

windthrown · 7th February 2009, 04:55 PM

If you have a spur type drum/sprocket on your 361, you should flip to to a rim style clutch drum/sprocket. That is not only a better drive for your chains, but it allows you to swap rims to a different size to vary the torque and chain speed on your saw. The 361 comes stock with a 7 pin rim drive. I have found that does well with 20" and 25" bars, but on an 18" or 16" bar, the torque seems to be wasted. On those size bars I use an 8 pin rim. I use all 3/8" (.375") standard chain on my 361s, but you can also use .325" chain.

These are the part numbers for the 361 rims from the Stihl IPL:

0000 042 1216 1 Rim sprocket 3/8" 8T
0000 042 1223 1 Rim sprocket 3/8" 7T <------ stock rim for the 361
0000 642 1239 1 Rim sprocket 0.325" 9T

Oregon has these rim sprockets that are a match as well (available at Bailey's and other saw shops):

Power Mate Rim, standard spline, 3/8-8, 8 tooth (Bailey's #ORL 22273)
Power Mate Rim, standard spline, 3/8-7, 7 tooth (Bailey's #ORL 68210)

Also Bailey's have some generic rim sprockets available for cheap, and they seem to be about the same quality as the others:

Drive Sprocket Rim (Standard Spline) 375-8 Tooth (Bailey's #RSD 3758)
Drive Sprocket Rim (Standard Spline) 375-7 Tooth (Bailey's #RSD 3757)

windthrown · 7th February 2009, 05:14 PM

Much debate is out there regarding what is the best bar size for the MS 361. I have 16, 18, 20, 25, and 28 inch bars, all in Stihl ES type and some in GB Pro Top, and some in Stihl E type as well. I have run them all on the 361s. The factory advises using a 16" through 25" bar on the 361. However, I have seen them sold and slung here in the PNW with 28" bars, and even 32" bars. The problem with running a 28" or 32" bar on the 361 is that the stock 361 oiler will not keep it wet enough. I got my second 361 with a 28 inch bar on it. It has little wear, but has obvious signs of burning from too little oil, even with the oiler turned up to high (I will post a solution to that problem in a note later).

I think that if you were only to have one bar for this saw (if it is not modified), it should be a 20". Some others feel that the 18" is the ideal size bar for this saw. It depends on your cutting conditions, and the type of wood and the type of cuts that you are making, as well as the chain type that you are using. Personally, I have found that I like the 25" bar with 3/8" std. chain the best on the 361. Really! They have more than enough power to drive that size bar. My next favorite is the 20" bar. That is a wide variety of cutting, from felling, bucking, firewood cutting, noodling, thinning, and limbing. As I said in the post above, I change rims sprockets to match the bars I am using. For more torque driving a 20" or longer bar, I use a 7 pin rim sprocket. For driving an 18" or 16" bar, I run an 8 pin rim for more chain speed, as they have more than enough torque from the 361.

I like the GB Pro Top and Ti bars a lot, as they are flatter (less oval) than Stihl ES bars and they put up with a LOT of abuse. I have bent them when trees and bent them right back in the shop. Overall, I feel that using a solid bar is far better than using a laminated one. Mainly from experience bending bars, pinching them, in tree cuts, and overall wear and tear. They cost more, but they are worth it.

Here is a link to the more common Stihl bars used on their saws, including the 361. It is not complete, but it has most of the options and part numbers:

http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdfs/SawChainSelection.pdf

windthrown · 7th February 2009, 05:23 PM

When using a 361 with a 28 inch or longer bar, there will probably be issues with adequate oiling of the bar and chain. After some use with the oil pump set to full, the 28 inch bar on one of my 361s is blueing top and bottom near the sprocket tip mounts (Stihl ES bar) and the paint is burning off in these places as well.

To solve this, you can replace the 361 oil pump with the full 460R (3/4 wrap) high capacity oil pump assembly. The Stihl part number is:

1128 640 3250 oil pump assembly

You can also keep the 361 oil pump and just replace just the piston and control bolt with the 460R parts. The Stihl part numbers for these are:

1128 647 0602 oil pump piston
1128 647 4803 oil pump control bolt

windthrown · 7th February 2009, 05:26 PM

Starter grip handle options on the 361 with part numbers from the IPL:

1121 195 3400 1 Starter grip (1) USA standard solid grip
1128 190 3400 1 Starter grip ElastoStart

The ElastoStart grip has a big stretchy rubber thingey in it for some give when starting, which can make it easier on your wrist. Some people have told me that the Elasto-Grip is better than using the decomp buttons on the 361 and the 440/460 saws.

windthrown · 7th February 2009, 05:30 PM

This is the Stihl part number for the dual dog and chain roller kit for the 361 from the IPL.

1135 650 7750

The kit includes 2 larger than stock dogs and a roller at the bottom between the spikes that repalces the stock aluminum chain catcher at the bottom of the saw. It works with the stock side cover, which needs to be drilled out (punched through) to accept the bolts for the second outside dog. The roller is really nice, and far better at stopping thrown chains than the stock amuminum chain catcher.

windthrown · 7th February 2009, 05:34 PM

The Stihl part number for this kit is:

1135 007 1007

The kit includes a 3/4 wrap top handle (Stihl calls this a full wrap), a new deep dish side cover, a new (different) top buffer spring, a short scrench, dual large dogs and roller chain catcher. The scrench is required becasue the 3/4 wrap handle gets in the way of using a standard scrench on the bar nuts at the side of the saw.

I have this kit on my 044, and it is really nice. For the price, it is a good deal (about $130-160 in the US).

windthrown · 7th February 2009, 05:42 PM

To replace your 361 bar studs with the new type now standard on the newer 361s, the Stihl part number is:

1138 664 2400

Supposed to be a couple bucks each at the dealer. They have a longer threaded section, and the wide parts are tapered. They supposedly avoid stripping as easilly as the old style studs.

StihlTheOne · 10th April 2009, 01:17 AM

New guy here. Found the site based on this thread (google search). Since no one commented, really appreciate the information and thanks for taking the time to present it. Big fan of the 361! If you don't mind, I may have a question or two for you that I'll send via PM. Thanks again.

Therrin · 10th April 2009, 06:06 PM

Windthrown,
Could you possibly post a picture of the 3/4 wrap handle, along with the double dawgs and roller chain catcher?

Also, if you're running the 16" bar, in primarily softer woods, not hard stuff, would you ever think of jumping up to the 9 pin sprocket?

I also have 16", 20", 25", 28", and 32" bars for it. I've found that I only prefer using skip chain on the 28" and 32" and usually on the 25" as well.

I'm gonna look into the oil pump stuff, that sounds great. However, how does cranking up the oiler with the 460R parts compare to the life of a tank of gas on the 361? Will the upgraded oiler last through a full tank when its cranked way up?

Thanks for all the info so far Windthrown, I really appreciate you putting all that together!!

windthrown · 11th April 2009, 03:32 PM

I have the 460R oil gusher pump on my 044, and it runs about par with the gas, but there is a little oil left in the tank when the gas runs out. Different tank though. I do not know if the 361 oil tank will keep up with the 460R oil pump or not. You can also adjust the bolt down once it is in there though.

Running a 16 or 18 inch bar on my 361s is a waste of torque with a 7 pin. 8 pin ran better. I run the 16 rarely on them. I am not aware of a 9 pin rim being available on a 3/8 Stihl chainsaw. All I have seen are 7 and 8 pin in 3/8. 9 pin is available in .325, but I do not use .325 on my saws (hate the stuff). My guess would be that you would maybe need to add a link running a new chain with a 9 pin rim with 3/8 chain on a 16 inch bar though.

I have 16, 18, 20, 25x2, and 28 inch bars, and I run mostly 20 and 25 inch bars on my pair of 361s. I usually run a 25 and 28 bar on my 044.

windthrown · 11th April 2009, 04:05 PM

Here is a 3/4 wrap on a 361. The dogs on this are from a 660 I think (Jeff's saw). It also has the larger "PNW side cover":

Here is a big dog and roller kit on a 361 (Gary's old saw):

Therrin · 11th April 2009, 07:10 PM

Oh okay I must have misunderstood about the 9pin then. I'd love to try the 8pin though. I also hate .325 sized stuff. I've got it on my 028 only, and only because it's too expensive to swap that over to a rim in 3/8". Old saw and not powerfull enough for me to really feel that it's justified. I only use it as a backup saw now so I'm not worried about it.

I really like what you've suggested for the 361 though.

I would LOVE to try the wrap handle, and I think I like the dawgs in the 2nd picture (silver ones) more than the black ones in the first picture. The silver ones look more aggressive than what I've got now, and its double sided with the roller chain catcher.
Does the 361 really do that well with the big aggressive black colored dawgs or is it not really an issue?

Oh, one other thing, I got the exhaust off of the head today, but I can't manage to get the two pieces of the exhaust assembly apart. Do you have any idea how to go about that? I had heard that there's something in there I can take out but I can't get into it. (I dont mean the spark arrestor)

newguy18 · 11th April 2009, 11:19 PM

if its crimped togther,you'll have to cut the crimp off,or un-crimp it

.If not try tapping it lightly with a small ball peen hammer to break it loose.

StihlTheOne · 12th April 2009, 10:43 PM

How much does the 1135 650 7750 kit run? and are they the same dogs and rollers included in the kit shown below? Thanks for the pics and another of the 3/4 wrap handle would be nice if you have it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by windthrown

The Stihl part number for this kit is:

1135 007 1007

The kit includes a 3/4 wrap top handle (Stihl calls this a full wrap), a new deep dish side cover, a new (different) top buffer spring, a short scrench, dual large dogs and roller chain catcher. The scrench is required becasue the 3/4 wrap handle gets in the way of using a standard scrench on the bar nuts at the side of the saw.

I have this kit on my 044, and it is really nice. For the price, it is a good deal (about $130-160 in the US).

THANKS AGAIN FOR THIS INFORMATION.

windthrown · 13th April 2009, 06:05 PM

That's the only 3/4 wrap photo that I have of a 361. I will see if I can find one of Gary's after he added the 3/4 wrap.

The kit... lemesee... yes, those are the same dual dogs in the kit that Gary had on his 361 in the photo there. They are about $35 here in the PNW. Stihl parts vary by region though, so I do not know what they are in your area.

As for the giant spikes on Jeff's 361, he likes them that size as he cut thick bark Doug fir, and he would use them to dog in the saw and get a good lever off of them. I have large spikes on my 044R and I like them; they are sized between the huge one's on Jeff's and the ones on the 361.

windthrown · 14th April 2009, 07:25 AM

Here is another 3/4 wrapped 361 with the dual dogs and roller:

Therrin · 14th April 2009, 10:14 AM

Well I just got home from the saw shop.

I ordered the kit with the double dogs and roller chain catcher.

Just picked up an 8T rim sprocket for the 361.

Ordered a changeover-to-rim sprocket kit for my 028, and then got .325 and 3/8" rim sprockets for it.

I talked to the saw guy about the 460 oiler parts being used in the 361. He looked them up on the computer, and the oiler control bolt is the SAME EXACT part number for those two saws... and he said the piston wouldnt fit in the 361 from the 460. He showed me how the cam works inside the oiler and how the control bolt works against that, and said that once the cam is all the way out, you cant get anymore oil out of it than that.

So.....I was wondering how that goes up against what you were saying about the 460 oiler with the 361.

He seemed of a mind that the 361 puts out enough oil, as well as saying that you wouldnt wanna run out of oil before gas.

Hmmm, I'll have to think about that one. I'm gonna work on the other mods for now though.

SawTroll · 14th April 2009, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Therrin

Windthrown,
Could you possibly post a picture of the 3/4 wrap handle, along with the double dawgs and roller chain catcher?

Also, if you're running the 16" bar, in primarily softer woods, not hard stuff, would you ever think of jumping up to the 9 pin sprocket? ....

I have regularly been running a 15" bar and 8-pin for limbing and bucking birch up to about 18" - but wouldn't even consider a 9-pin.

Birch is a hardwood, but not a very hard one.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Therrin

Oh okay I must have misunderstood about the 9pin then.

They are made - but not generally advertised in product catalogs etc.....

SawTroll · 14th April 2009, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Therrin

...Oh, one other thing, I got the exhaust off of the head today, but I can't manage to get the two pieces of the exhaust assembly apart. Do you have any idea how to go about that? I had heard that there's something in there I can take out but I can't get into it. (I dont mean the spark arrestor) ....

They are crimped, you have to "uncrimp" them.

Therrin · 15th April 2009, 09:22 AM

That sounds like a real PITA....

windthrown · 15th April 2009, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Therrin

I talked to the saw guy about the 460 oiler parts being used in the 361. He looked them up on the computer, and the oiler control bolt is the SAME EXACT part number for those two saws... and he said the piston wouldnt fit in the 361 from the 460. He showed me how the cam works inside the oiler and how the control bolt works against that, and said that once the cam is all the way out, you cant get anymore oil out of it than that.

So.....I was wondering how that goes up against what you were saying about the 460 oiler with the 361.

He seemed of a mind that the 361 puts out enough oil, as well as saying that you wouldnt wanna run out of oil before gas.

Hmmm, I'll have to think about that one. I'm gonna work on the other mods for now though.

The 460R (with the "full" wrap, not the standard 460) oil update kit is according to a dozen guys on AS, and Lakeside (Andy) who is a pro Stihl mechanic in the Seattle area. He knows more about Stihls than anyone else that I know. I know several guys that have done the 361 oiler mod and they say it works. I have one in my 044, and that thing gushes oil.

If you are going to run a 28 inch or longer bar on the 361, you are apt to burn the bar from lack of enough oil. I know for a fact that my second 361 with a 28 inch bar blues that bar with the oiler set on high. It came with the 28 inch Stihl ES bar on it. I do not use the 28 inch bar on either 361 any more. No need with the 044 around with an HO oiler. As for the 361 oil tank size issue, that is a design item that cannot really be worked around.

windthrown · 15th April 2009, 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Therrin

Oh, one other thing, I got the exhaust off of the head today, but I can't manage to get the two pieces of the exhaust assembly apart. Do you have any idea how to go about that? I had heard that there's something in there I can take out but I can't get into it. (I dont mean the spark arrestor)

Yah, they are crimped. Lakeside Andy has taken them apart and shown them in great detail on some other forums. Lots of crap in there, unlike the 440/460. Basically it was deemed that it was not worth trying to break the muffler apart and most guys drill an oval hole and braze a pipe fitting into the lower right side of the muffler (bar toward you). Then they cover it with some sparc screen material and clamp it. Look on AS for the details. There is another 361 muffler mod that is popular using a thin cutting disk on a Dremel tool and cutting 3 slits in the same spot of the muffler, and prying them open like shark gills.

Therrin · 15th April 2009, 01:42 PM

Cool, okay. I'll look into that.

I wanted to get a Wojo-mod; but I really don't have that kinda money lying around, which is why I've been doing all this mechanical work on my saws lately instead of taking them to the shop.

I dont doubt that the 361 could certainly use more oil with longer bars (as my own opinion), but I dont know how to reconcile what they suggest doing with having seen on the screen at my saw shop that those oilers use the same exact part numbers for the control bolt. *shrugs*
He has a thing on there that shows which parts are adaptable to each of the other stihl saws, and the oiler piston "wasnt compatible" with the 361. Said it was too big to fit or something.
I'm always up for more oil, but with the lack of large cutting I have to do right now I just wont worry about it. I'd love to get a 460 someday. Maybe then I'll just use the bigger saw and leave my 361 for everything out to 25".

newguy18 · 15th April 2009, 02:06 PM

Speaking of 361's,you get yours running Ken?

Therrin · 15th April 2009, 09:47 PM

Not yet... you get your truck runnin?

I can't figure the damn saw out. I replaced the tank breather, I've been through the carb 3 times, nothings clogged up, new plug, getting plenty of spark, fuel line is fine....

But I tug and tug and tug.... and the plug doesnt even get wet. So for some reason it isnt getting fuel. I just dont get it. I cant even get it started now, even though I could the other day. It's frickin annoying.

I contacted my shop and said, look, this is my top saw, I cant operate without it, I know you guys are backed up, how much $$ do I gotta slip you to put it at the top of the list. (I've spent hundreds of bucks in there on parts and supplies in the last couple weeks, and picked the tech's brain on dozens of issues)
He says, dude, just bring it in, I'll work on it first, don't worry about it.
So that's where I'm at. And they have like.... 50 other saws in there that he's putting mine ahead of.

newguy18 · 15th April 2009, 10:53 PM

My truck always ran,drives too,it just doesn't stop.

The kits so i can rebuild the brake wheel cylinders is supposed to be in today so i can rebuild them on sunday.If its not getting any fuel,it had a new breather put on,line and carb have been cleaned,then the carb has to be out of adjustment,the L needle would have to be most of the way in to cause that.

Therrin · 16th April 2009, 06:16 AM

You said earlier that the glass float bowl broke.

newguy18 · 16th April 2009, 08:43 AM

oh yeah,still gotta either buy a carb,or get the glass company to cut me a new bowl,right now its held togther with permatex and seal all.

windthrown · 16th April 2009, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Therrin

Cool, okay. I'll look into that.

I wanted to get a Wojo-mod; but I really don't have that kinda money lying around, which is why I've been doing all this mechanical work on my saws lately instead of taking them to the shop.

Yah, the 440s/460s are so easy to muffler mod; get a stock Stihl DP cover for $35. U R Done. Wojo is an OK guy. I have bought GB bars from him for cheap. The muffler mods seem spendy, but he is also supplying a muffler. They are cheaper if you send him the muffler to modify. He is on Ebay all the time. Shark gill mod is the cheapest/easiest. Though in CA, you want to have a sparc screen on there.

The rest of your reply I will have to deal with later. I have the numbers and the reasons that the 460R model oil pump parts upgrade in the 361 works. It does. I do not doubt Ian or Andy. Andy has worked on many Stihls for many years.

7th February 2009, 04:48 PM	#1
windthrown Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest Posts: 1,238	Stihl MS361 upgrades and options Here is a thread with some options and features that I know of on the MS 361 and some information on sizes of bars, rims and chains that I run on my 361s, etc. Please, this is not a 361 praise or bashing thread, just an information thread. If you know of any other 361 options, features or mods, please add them here. __________________ . Stay thirsty my friends... Modified Stihl work saws: 310, 4 x 026 / 3 x 361 / 1 x 044 / 066 in rehab Sorry, my global parts shipping is suspended at this time.

7th February 2009, 04:55 PM	#2
windthrown Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest Posts: 1,238	Rim drive sprocket options If you have a spur type drum/sprocket on your 361, you should flip to to a rim style clutch drum/sprocket. That is not only a better drive for your chains, but it allows you to swap rims to a different size to vary the torque and chain speed on your saw. The 361 comes stock with a 7 pin rim drive. I have found that does well with 20" and 25" bars, but on an 18" or 16" bar, the torque seems to be wasted. On those size bars I use an 8 pin rim. I use all 3/8" (.375") standard chain on my 361s, but you can also use .325" chain. These are the part numbers for the 361 rims from the Stihl IPL: 0000 042 1216 1 Rim sprocket 3/8" 8T 0000 042 1223 1 Rim sprocket 3/8" 7T <------ stock rim for the 361 0000 642 1239 1 Rim sprocket 0.325" 9T Oregon has these rim sprockets that are a match as well (available at Bailey's and other saw shops): Power Mate Rim, standard spline, 3/8-8, 8 tooth (Bailey's #ORL 22273) Power Mate Rim, standard spline, 3/8-7, 7 tooth (Bailey's #ORL 68210) Also Bailey's have some generic rim sprockets available for cheap, and they seem to be about the same quality as the others: Drive Sprocket Rim (Standard Spline) 375-8 Tooth (Bailey's #RSD 3758) Drive Sprocket Rim (Standard Spline) 375-7 Tooth (Bailey's #RSD 3757) __________________ . Stay thirsty my friends... Modified Stihl work saws: 310, 4 x 026 / 3 x 361 / 1 x 044 / 066 in rehab Sorry, my global parts shipping is suspended at this time.

7th February 2009, 05:14 PM	#3
windthrown Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest Posts: 1,238	Stihl MS361 bar size options Much debate is out there regarding what is the best bar size for the MS 361. I have 16, 18, 20, 25, and 28 inch bars, all in Stihl ES type and some in GB Pro Top, and some in Stihl E type as well. I have run them all on the 361s. The factory advises using a 16" through 25" bar on the 361. However, I have seen them sold and slung here in the PNW with 28" bars, and even 32" bars. The problem with running a 28" or 32" bar on the 361 is that the stock 361 oiler will not keep it wet enough. I got my second 361 with a 28 inch bar on it. It has little wear, but has obvious signs of burning from too little oil, even with the oiler turned up to high (I will post a solution to that problem in a note later). I think that if you were only to have one bar for this saw (if it is not modified), it should be a 20". Some others feel that the 18" is the ideal size bar for this saw. It depends on your cutting conditions, and the type of wood and the type of cuts that you are making, as well as the chain type that you are using. Personally, I have found that I like the 25" bar with 3/8" std. chain the best on the 361. Really! They have more than enough power to drive that size bar. My next favorite is the 20" bar. That is a wide variety of cutting, from felling, bucking, firewood cutting, noodling, thinning, and limbing. As I said in the post above, I change rims sprockets to match the bars I am using. For more torque driving a 20" or longer bar, I use a 7 pin rim sprocket. For driving an 18" or 16" bar, I run an 8 pin rim for more chain speed, as they have more than enough torque from the 361. I like the GB Pro Top and Ti bars a lot, as they are flatter (less oval) than Stihl ES bars and they put up with a LOT of abuse. I have bent them when trees and bent them right back in the shop. Overall, I feel that using a solid bar is far better than using a laminated one. Mainly from experience bending bars, pinching them, in tree cuts, and overall wear and tear. They cost more, but they are worth it. Here is a link to the more common Stihl bars used on their saws, including the 361. It is not complete, but it has most of the options and part numbers: http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdfs/SawChainSelection.pdf __________________ . Stay thirsty my friends... Modified Stihl work saws: 310, 4 x 026 / 3 x 361 / 1 x 044 / 066 in rehab Sorry, my global parts shipping is suspended at this time.

7th February 2009, 05:23 PM	#4
windthrown Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest Posts: 1,238	Stihl MS 361 upgrade with 460R oiler option When using a 361 with a 28 inch or longer bar, there will probably be issues with adequate oiling of the bar and chain. After some use with the oil pump set to full, the 28 inch bar on one of my 361s is blueing top and bottom near the sprocket tip mounts (Stihl ES bar) and the paint is burning off in these places as well. To solve this, you can replace the 361 oil pump with the full 460R (3/4 wrap) high capacity oil pump assembly. The Stihl part number is: 1128 640 3250 oil pump assembly You can also keep the 361 oil pump and just replace just the piston and control bolt with the 460R parts. The Stihl part numbers for these are: 1128 647 0602 oil pump piston 1128 647 4803 oil pump control bolt __________________ . Stay thirsty my friends... Modified Stihl work saws: 310, 4 x 026 / 3 x 361 / 1 x 044 / 066 in rehab Sorry, my global parts shipping is suspended at this time.

7th February 2009, 05:26 PM	#5
windthrown Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest Posts: 1,238	Stihl MS361 strater grip options Starter grip handle options on the 361 with part numbers from the IPL: 1121 195 3400 1 Starter grip (1) USA standard solid grip 1128 190 3400 1 Starter grip ElastoStart The ElastoStart grip has a big stretchy rubber thingey in it for some give when starting, which can make it easier on your wrist. Some people have told me that the Elasto-Grip is better than using the decomp buttons on the 361 and the 440/460 saws. __________________ . Stay thirsty my friends... Modified Stihl work saws: 310, 4 x 026 / 3 x 361 / 1 x 044 / 066 in rehab Sorry, my global parts shipping is suspended at this time.

7th February 2009, 05:30 PM	#6
windthrown Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest Posts: 1,238	MS361 dual dog and chain roller option This is the Stihl part number for the dual dog and chain roller kit for the 361 from the IPL. 1135 650 7750 The kit includes 2 larger than stock dogs and a roller at the bottom between the spikes that repalces the stock aluminum chain catcher at the bottom of the saw. It works with the stock side cover, which needs to be drilled out (punched through) to accept the bolts for the second outside dog. The roller is really nice, and far better at stopping thrown chains than the stock amuminum chain catcher. __________________ . Stay thirsty my friends... Modified Stihl work saws: 310, 4 x 026 / 3 x 361 / 1 x 044 / 066 in rehab Sorry, my global parts shipping is suspended at this time.

7th February 2009, 05:34 PM	#7
windthrown Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest Posts: 1,238	MS361 3/4 wrap, dual dog and deep side cover kit The Stihl part number for this kit is: 1135 007 1007 The kit includes a 3/4 wrap top handle (Stihl calls this a full wrap), a new deep dish side cover, a new (different) top buffer spring, a short scrench, dual large dogs and roller chain catcher. The scrench is required becasue the 3/4 wrap handle gets in the way of using a standard scrench on the bar nuts at the side of the saw. I have this kit on my 044, and it is really nice. For the price, it is a good deal (about $130-160 in the US). __________________ . Stay thirsty my friends... Modified Stihl work saws: 310, 4 x 026 / 3 x 361 / 1 x 044 / 066 in rehab Sorry, my global parts shipping is suspended at this time.

7th February 2009, 05:42 PM	#8
windthrown Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest Posts: 1,238	MS361 bar studs To replace your 361 bar studs with the new type now standard on the newer 361s, the Stihl part number is: 1138 664 2400 Supposed to be a couple bucks each at the dealer. They have a longer threaded section, and the wide parts are tapered. They supposedly avoid stripping as easilly as the old style studs. __________________ . Stay thirsty my friends... Modified Stihl work saws: 310, 4 x 026 / 3 x 361 / 1 x 044 / 066 in rehab Sorry, my global parts shipping is suspended at this time.

10th April 2009, 01:17 AM	#9
StihlTheOne Sappling Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: SW IND Posts: 11	Re: Stihl MS361 upgrades and options New guy here. Found the site based on this thread (google search). Since no one commented, really appreciate the information and thanks for taking the time to present it. Big fan of the 361! If you don't mind, I may have a question or two for you that I'll send via PM. Thanks again.

10th April 2009, 06:06 PM	#10
Therrin Tree World Ninja Monkey Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca Posts: 2,705	Re: Stihl MS361 upgrades and options Windthrown, Could you possibly post a picture of the 3/4 wrap handle, along with the double dawgs and roller chain catcher? Also, if you're running the 16" bar, in primarily softer woods, not hard stuff, would you ever think of jumping up to the 9 pin sprocket? I also have 16", 20", 25", 28", and 32" bars for it. I've found that I only prefer using skip chain on the 28" and 32" and usually on the 25" as well. I'm gonna look into the oil pump stuff, that sounds great. However, how does cranking up the oiler with the 460R parts compare to the life of a tank of gas on the 361? Will the upgraded oiler last through a full tank when its cranked way up? Thanks for all the info so far Windthrown, I really appreciate you putting all that together!! __________________ Stihls: 200T, 011, 028, 260p, 361, 660 Give a man a match and he'll be warm for a moment, but light him on fire and he'll be warm the rest of his life.

11th April 2009, 03:32 PM	#11
windthrown Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest Posts: 1,238	Re: Stihl MS361 upgrades and options I have the 460R oil gusher pump on my 044, and it runs about par with the gas, but there is a little oil left in the tank when the gas runs out. Different tank though. I do not know if the 361 oil tank will keep up with the 460R oil pump or not. You can also adjust the bolt down once it is in there though. Running a 16 or 18 inch bar on my 361s is a waste of torque with a 7 pin. 8 pin ran better. I run the 16 rarely on them. I am not aware of a 9 pin rim being available on a 3/8 Stihl chainsaw. All I have seen are 7 and 8 pin in 3/8. 9 pin is available in .325, but I do not use .325 on my saws (hate the stuff). My guess would be that you would maybe need to add a link running a new chain with a 9 pin rim with 3/8 chain on a 16 inch bar though. I have 16, 18, 20, 25x2, and 28 inch bars, and I run mostly 20 and 25 inch bars on my pair of 361s. I usually run a 25 and 28 bar on my 044. __________________ . Stay thirsty my friends... Modified Stihl work saws: 310, 4 x 026 / 3 x 361 / 1 x 044 / 066 in rehab Sorry, my global parts shipping is suspended at this time.

11th April 2009, 04:05 PM	#12
windthrown Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest Posts: 1,238	Re: Stihl MS361 upgrades and options Here is a 3/4 wrap on a 361. The dogs on this are from a 660 I think (Jeff's saw). It also has the larger "PNW side cover": Here is a big dog and roller kit on a 361 (Gary's old saw): Attached Thumbnails __________________ . Stay thirsty my friends... Modified Stihl work saws: 310, 4 x 026 / 3 x 361 / 1 x 044 / 066 in rehab Sorry, my global parts shipping is suspended at this time.

11th April 2009, 07:10 PM	#13
Therrin Tree World Ninja Monkey Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca Posts: 2,705	Re: Stihl MS361 upgrades and options Oh okay I must have misunderstood about the 9pin then. I'd love to try the 8pin though. I also hate .325 sized stuff. I've got it on my 028 only, and only because it's too expensive to swap that over to a rim in 3/8". Old saw and not powerfull enough for me to really feel that it's justified. I only use it as a backup saw now so I'm not worried about it. I really like what you've suggested for the 361 though. I would LOVE to try the wrap handle, and I think I like the dawgs in the 2nd picture (silver ones) more than the black ones in the first picture. The silver ones look more aggressive than what I've got now, and its double sided with the roller chain catcher. Does the 361 really do that well with the big aggressive black colored dawgs or is it not really an issue? Oh, one other thing, I got the exhaust off of the head today, but I can't manage to get the two pieces of the exhaust assembly apart. Do you have any idea how to go about that? I had heard that there's something in there I can take out but I can't get into it. (I dont mean the spark arrestor) __________________ Stihls: 200T, 011, 028, 260p, 361, 660 Give a man a match and he'll be warm for a moment, but light him on fire and he'll be warm the rest of his life.

11th April 2009, 11:19 PM	#14
newguy18 Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: orlando,fl Posts: 5,238	Re: Stihl MS361 upgrades and options if its crimped togther,you'll have to cut the crimp off,or un-crimp it.If not try tapping it lightly with a small ball peen hammer to break it loose. __________________ Have your say join us today. I ship USA saws out of the USA old schooler

13th April 2009, 06:05 PM	#16
windthrown Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest Posts: 1,238	Re: Stihl MS361 upgrades and options That's the only 3/4 wrap photo that I have of a 361. I will see if I can find one of Gary's after he added the 3/4 wrap. The kit... lemesee... yes, those are the same dual dogs in the kit that Gary had on his 361 in the photo there. They are about $35 here in the PNW. Stihl parts vary by region though, so I do not know what they are in your area. As for the giant spikes on Jeff's 361, he likes them that size as he cut thick bark Doug fir, and he would use them to dog in the saw and get a good lever off of them. I have large spikes on my 044R and I like them; they are sized between the huge one's on Jeff's and the ones on the 361. __________________ . Stay thirsty my friends... Modified Stihl work saws: 310, 4 x 026 / 3 x 361 / 1 x 044 / 066 in rehab Sorry, my global parts shipping is suspended at this time.

14th April 2009, 07:25 AM	#17
windthrown Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest Posts: 1,238	Re: Stihl MS361 upgrades and options Here is another 3/4 wrapped 361 with the dual dogs and roller: Attached Thumbnails __________________ . Stay thirsty my friends... Modified Stihl work saws: 310, 4 x 026 / 3 x 361 / 1 x 044 / 066 in rehab Sorry, my global parts shipping is suspended at this time.

14th April 2009, 10:14 AM	#18
Therrin Tree World Ninja Monkey Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca Posts: 2,705	Re: Stihl MS361 upgrades and options Well I just got home from the saw shop. I ordered the kit with the double dogs and roller chain catcher. Just picked up an 8T rim sprocket for the 361. Ordered a changeover-to-rim sprocket kit for my 028, and then got .325 and 3/8" rim sprockets for it. I talked to the saw guy about the 460 oiler parts being used in the 361. He looked them up on the computer, and the oiler control bolt is the SAME EXACT part number for those two saws... and he said the piston wouldnt fit in the 361 from the 460. He showed me how the cam works inside the oiler and how the control bolt works against that, and said that once the cam is all the way out, you cant get anymore oil out of it than that. So.....I was wondering how that goes up against what you were saying about the 460 oiler with the 361. He seemed of a mind that the 361 puts out enough oil, as well as saying that you wouldnt wanna run out of oil before gas. Hmmm, I'll have to think about that one. I'm gonna work on the other mods for now though. __________________ Stihls: 200T, 011, 028, 260p, 361, 660 Give a man a match and he'll be warm for a moment, but light him on fire and he'll be warm the rest of his life.

15th April 2009, 09:22 AM	#21
Therrin Tree World Ninja Monkey Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca Posts: 2,705	Re: Stihl MS361 upgrades and options That sounds like a real PITA.... __________________ Stihls: 200T, 011, 028, 260p, 361, 660 Give a man a match and he'll be warm for a moment, but light him on fire and he'll be warm the rest of his life.

15th April 2009, 01:42 PM	#24
Therrin Tree World Ninja Monkey Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca Posts: 2,705	Re: Stihl MS361 upgrades and options Cool, okay. I'll look into that. I wanted to get a Wojo-mod; but I really don't have that kinda money lying around, which is why I've been doing all this mechanical work on my saws lately instead of taking them to the shop. I dont doubt that the 361 could certainly use more oil with longer bars (as my own opinion), but I dont know how to reconcile what they suggest doing with having seen on the screen at my saw shop that those oilers use the same exact part numbers for the control bolt. shrugs He has a thing on there that shows which parts are adaptable to each of the other stihl saws, and the oiler piston "wasnt compatible" with the 361. Said it was too big to fit or something. I'm always up for more oil, but with the lack of large cutting I have to do right now I just wont worry about it. I'd love to get a 460 someday. Maybe then I'll just use the bigger saw and leave my 361 for everything out to 25". __________________ Stihls: 200T, 011, 028, 260p, 361, 660 Give a man a match and he'll be warm for a moment, but light him on fire and he'll be warm the rest of his life.

15th April 2009, 02:06 PM	#25
newguy18 Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: orlando,fl Posts: 5,238	Re: Stihl MS361 upgrades and options Speaking of 361's,you get yours running Ken? __________________ Have your say join us today. I ship USA saws out of the USA old schooler

15th April 2009, 09:47 PM	#26
Therrin Tree World Ninja Monkey Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca Posts: 2,705	Re: Stihl MS361 upgrades and options Not yet... you get your truck runnin? I can't figure the damn saw out. I replaced the tank breather, I've been through the carb 3 times, nothings clogged up, new plug, getting plenty of spark, fuel line is fine.... But I tug and tug and tug.... and the plug doesnt even get wet. So for some reason it isnt getting fuel. I just dont get it. I cant even get it started now, even though I could the other day. It's frickin annoying. I contacted my shop and said, look, this is my top saw, I cant operate without it, I know you guys are backed up, how much $$ do I gotta slip you to put it at the top of the list. (I've spent hundreds of bucks in there on parts and supplies in the last couple weeks, and picked the tech's brain on dozens of issues) He says, dude, just bring it in, I'll work on it first, don't worry about it. So that's where I'm at. And they have like.... 50 other saws in there that he's putting mine ahead of. __________________ Stihls: 200T, 011, 028, 260p, 361, 660 Give a man a match and he'll be warm for a moment, but light him on fire and he'll be warm the rest of his life.

15th April 2009, 10:53 PM	#27
newguy18 Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: orlando,fl Posts: 5,238	Re: Stihl MS361 upgrades and options My truck always ran,drives too,it just doesn't stop.The kits so i can rebuild the brake wheel cylinders is supposed to be in today so i can rebuild them on sunday.If its not getting any fuel,it had a new breather put on,line and carb have been cleaned,then the carb has to be out of adjustment,the L needle would have to be most of the way in to cause that. __________________ Have your say join us today. I ship USA saws out of the USA old schooler

16th April 2009, 06:16 AM	#28
Therrin Tree World Ninja Monkey Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca Posts: 2,705	Re: Stihl MS361 upgrades and options You said earlier that the glass float bowl broke. __________________ Stihls: 200T, 011, 028, 260p, 361, 660 Give a man a match and he'll be warm for a moment, but light him on fire and he'll be warm the rest of his life.

16th April 2009, 08:43 AM	#29
newguy18 Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: orlando,fl Posts: 5,238	Re: Stihl MS361 upgrades and options oh yeah,still gotta either buy a carb,or get the glass company to cut me a new bowl,right now its held togther with permatex and seal all. __________________ Have your say join us today. I ship USA saws out of the USA old schooler

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