Stihl MS361 upgrades and options

MS 390 (Denmark)

it will be delivered on monday,then I´ll send
pics.... PHO??

__________________
Best regards Jan

Stay Sharp....

My Saws: STIHL 046,MS361,MS200,MS192T

Cut4fun

PHO = Power Head Only

windthrown

PHO: Saudi chainsaw... no bar (tha-dump!)

MS 390 (Denmark)

ok thanks..... if I´ll sell the saw,then it must be a complet saw,not a parts saw

__________________
Best regards Jan

Stay Sharp....

My Saws: STIHL 046,MS361,MS200,MS192T

Therrin

No sir... that is MY name however. Perhaps its a related thing. (bha-dumm!)

Cut4fun

Before you put a NEW AFM p+c on the 361 did you pressure test the crankcase or trouble shoot in anyway to find out why you scored the OEM topend?
No way would I just have thrown another AFM topend without knowing why you scored the first one. Live and learn I guess.

Therrin

It was thought to be from having been running it up around 4000' elev and tuned for there, then bringing it down to around 500' elev and running it while it was still tuned at the 4000' settings. Which apparently would make it run lean.

Alas, as it is it could still be pressure checked. Its in roughly the same condition as it was the first time it scored, it just looks better =P

Cut4fun

Did you post pics anywhere of the oem and afm tops scored.

Therrin

Yes, I had put up several pics, and a thread about it when the OEM stuff went. And I'm pretty sure I took pics of the replacement parts before the went on the saw. I haven't had the AFM parts off the saw yet though, so no, no pics of them in whole.

kflood74

Hello all,

I am having problems with my ms 390 and hoping to get some help.

I bought this saw over two years ago. I recently had the compression valve replaced after it broke and came down in the motor. After a second time (compression valve breaking) I decided I did not want to deal with this problem again, so instead of replacing the compression valve i found a bolt to make a plug where the valve would be. In the process of getting the compression valve out of the motor I took the muffler off and fished it out.

It seemed to run just fine after I did this, but the second time I tried to run it after this process I cannot get it to ignite. I am pretty sure it is not a spark plug issue. Would anyone know if this would cause any problems with the saw??

windthrown

I would suggest that you start a 390 thread, as no one is going to look here to answer your query. Or you can add onto the 390 that I posted to about the 290/310/390 muffler mods.

windthrown

They killed Kenny!? The bastards!

caseys

What... Kenny? They killed him again? What did I miss...?

windthrown

Poor Kenny overheated and was scored, twice...

SawTroll

Right, this thread should not be contaminated with MS390 talk!

windthrown

I still like running my juiced up MS310 for some reason though. Then I start up a 361 and I forget about the 310 for a while.

neilvha

I'm still finding MS361 listed for sale here. Its listed for as much as $1349 (US$1200)...

windthrown

Well, the 361s are no longer being made here in the states. The global supply of 361s were all made in Virgina until last year. Either they are dumping saws that they can no longer sell here, or they are being made someplace else now, like Brazil. For that price, they can sure make a fat profit! They sold for a tad more than $600 here. I have not seen a used 361 on CL here for a few months now.

SawTroll

Hmmmmmm - the MS361 was made in Germany all the time, for all markets but the NA and OZ ones, and probably still is made there. The latest Canadian sold ones also were made in Germany, as far as I have been told.

The US sold ones had a bit less power than the others.

windthrown

I was misinformed by some of my Stihl insiders then. Makes sence. The US models have a different cylinder and muffler, but other than that they are pretty much the same saw with a tad less power (they can be easilly modified to get more power than the EU model though). I thought that the EU 361 was being phased out as well? Maybe not... Stihl is currently changing out their entire line of saws in the US now to comply with the new EPA laws, and there is much confusion as to what models will be next and when they will appear.

SawTroll

In Germany they list the 361 alongside the 362, and the 260 alongside the 261 - if varies from market to market in Europe.

dcarter

Interesting.....I wish somebody in the world still had enough integrity to build something that's well engineered, and just keep building it, selling replacement parts through the years. I'm tired of having to always change to meet the market. What a bunch of BS, and now, I'm told the cab of my F-250 will have to come off if the heads need to be replaced. This was a great thing to say after telling me that I'd better pray it's not my injectors due to the price. Go figure. I'll walk. Thanks Ford, at least your not owned by the Govt.

Firephile

Hi, first post here:

I was wondering if there is any way to visually id the high output oiler (#1128 640 3250).

I have an oiler that I took out of an old 460 with a full wrap handle, but I'm not 100% sure it's the high output version. It has the numbers 1128 647 04(and then another # that has been slightly worn off, could be a 6, 8, or 0). Below that it has a 1.3 >MG<.

I just put it in a 361 that I got used, but haven't run the new oiler yet. I suppose I'll be able to tell because I'll run through a tank of oil for every half or 2/3 tank of fuel? Just waiting for my spark arrestor to come in before I mix some fuel...

Thanks for any help you can give.

SawTroll

Do you really need the spark arrestor?

Some do - others don't.......

Firephile

Basically, yeah.

Tatertuned

Newbie here
I have a 361, just did the muffler mods
Can someone walk me through how to set my carb
What's the " LA" do?
H"?
L"
A good explaintion would be appreciated

Cut4fun

Simple basic how to's

Saw Carb Tuning

Tatertuned

Read all that but anyone have diagrams of the carb .I like to know how stuff works
What's "la" stand for
The saw won't even start for some reason

danschweitzer

I got a very low used 361 2004 model a couple of months ago and i live by the sea. The saw was running badly lean at max richness. There was a red limmiter tab in the h high speed screw this with the help of a decent thikness of wire with a little bend at the end i maneged to wriggle/pull out. this is key to any thing you change on your saw. For that exact reason i de get it out any way dont know iff the last 361s were the same or not. Now you should have a fully adjustable high speed screw. Then just pop a few grill s in the right side of muffler or a big whole with the huskvarna part and some spark arresting screen windthrown has explained this earlier on in the thread once its opened wind the h screw out quite a bit i de say it were more than twice wat the limmiter cap would of alowed. the saw should 4stroke flat out whilst not cutting. how much is up to you you should be chopping up wood and just keep that little scrdw driver in your pocket till you re happy with performance and sound. l speed screw is to make sure the saw pops and spits a bit as it were this also should not be too lean. Iff you richen the l screw [wind out] you want to ajust the la this will need winding in a little this will make tick over rev a little higher. windthrown has talked about this a nuber of times read through the lean damege thread and you ll learn allot. all i know i learned from here.

wyk

I dunno. With a laminated bar, or the new STIHL lightweight weldeds, the balance is just fine. In fact, with my Oregon Pro Lite, it handles about the same as with my 20" ES bar. Unless I am in a tight space, I just use the 24" Pro Lite. You can't lever on it as much as with a solid bar, but otherwise it works fine. Just don't get it pinched.