Stihl 660

treevet

Or build you up. The 66/65 is a toy compared to the 88. I mentioned not running the big bar all the time because it is awkward on smaller wood and not because the engine will not push the chain.

I like the idea of a 20" bar on the 66. Some people would like it thought all they cut is giant redwoods all the time. I keep a 36" on my 090 and it does not go out that much. I also have a 6' bar for it.

The 66 is not a big saw. If it is too much for anyone, maybe some grip and forearm exercises would be helpful.

newguy18

Well said Dave,i run his 650 most of the time when feeding the chipper and felling,just nice,fairly lightweight,lots of power.

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old schooler

spartek

I don't understand, my forearmrs are huge, and by biceps are definately not lacking. Why run a 66 on a 20'' bar if you dont have too. Hell if its an ego thing,put the dam thing on an 880 or a 090 an run it 24-7. Oh by the way , do they make "safety chain" in the .404 gauge for the 090, cause little pencil-armed, insurance-toting , newbies like me are only trained in on "safety"chain

treevet

Well then how you gonna break those big meat slabs down you savage.

As for why a 20 incher on a 66....answer, ...just fun.

newguy18

What self respecting treeguy uses safety chain?I'm sure they do make it but its just mainly on homeowner type saws i guess,i haven't seen to many homeowners walking around with an 066 or 088.

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old schooler

treevet

Remember those shields they used to put on the end of department store saws to protect HO's from the kickback quadrant? Haven't seen one of them for a while. Do they still make them?

Willard Holmen

Yeah I remember those guards, Homelite was heavy into those 20-30 years ago. Kind of useless for commercial use, but then you would never have to worry about rocking out the chain LOL.
A commercial grade safety chain has the safety in the sloped depth gauge ramp [33RS,72 LGX,50APL]. Or the ramped drive link on the 72 LPX for example. Oregon 59L .404 chain also has the kickback reducing ramped depth gauge, the Oregon 27 .404 does not [not safety chain].
I'll tell you a little story when I worked for Stihl in 1989 the 33RS at the time did not have the ramp on the depth gauge like they have now. The ramp was on top of the side strap[link] directly in front of each cutter's depth gauge. Now when each cutter went over the nose of the bar the straight blunt depth gauge was out in the open because now the ramp was bent below it. Only when the cutters and depth gauges were filed almost all the way back small there was "some" anti-kickback protection with the ramp on the side strap.
When I met Hans Peter Stihl I brought this problem up. He replied to me, "The ramped side link on the 33RS is only there for a optical illusion."

spartek

I was just kidding around about the "saftey chain". I run full chisel on everything except my climbing saws. I like 33RSF on my longer bars and 33RSC on 20'' and under bars. I use 91VX(Oregon) on my 200T and the 335's and on the 2135 J-red. I get them for $10.95 a piece from Baileys

Therrin

Yeah I decided to keep my mouth shut when you made the crack about "saftey chain". Thought I'd see who bit that one, that was pretty funny.

I only like RSC3 in softer woods. Otherwise I go for full-chisel, and full skip on my longer bars.

I'd love to try out a 660 or 650 sometime. It'd be nice if the shops around here let you try them out. No such luck.

newguy18

See if your shop will sell you demo saws or broken saws that yuo can fix up yourself,both the 660 and 650 are good saws,the 441 is okay too.

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old schooler

spartek

Therrin , I"m just about, almost, ready to send you a 650 in the mail ,

Therrin

Spartek, I'm just about, almost, ready to recieve that offer.


Ok fine, go for it.

Willard Holmen

Can I interest you in a classic original first year Stihl "Red light" 066 Magnum Artic [heated carb] with factory dual port muffler. My new Husqvarna 395XP has kept the 066 on the shelf.
Wait your in California you won't need the Artic carb.

Therrin

can you "disable" the arctic part of it?

or at least how much would a replacement carb be?

Is it still a well-running saw?

I'm interested, keep talking

newguy18

to disable the carb heater,there should be 2 wires,they should just unplug.

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old schooler

Willard Holmen

The Artic carb would work just fine in California. I forget the temperature the thermostat cuts in and out at, but its a low number. Stihl put together an excellent setup here. I never had a problem with it and the carb heater and thermostat always works spot on.
This model was the very first of the digital Stihls and now that I think of that fact, maybe I was a little premature in offering it for sale, sorry about that. I just may restore this saw back to its shining glory with new covers etc. I never had the cylinder off this saw and it still has massive compression and runs like it did when new. This saw is 17 years old! Never logged full time with it , just a backup big saw for my tree service and a little firewood before that.
A note of interest , I field tested the very first "Artic" prototype saw for Stihl in the winter of 1991-1992. It was a 044 with a mechanical heat setup, then shortly after I tested the electronic setup which of course is what they stuck with.