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| | #61 |
| Mature tree Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Troms, North Norway
Posts: 280
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| | #62 |
| Mature tree Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Troms, North Norway
Posts: 280
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| | #63 |
| Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: orlando,fl
Posts: 4,948
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but it orange and white and it says stihl.The chances of me owning another stihl is about the same as me owning a chevy.Not likley i'll stick with husky and ford.
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| | #64 |
| Former Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,207
| Eeeeeeshh.... Husky and Ford. Man, those are two names I do not like. The GF's Ford F250 4WD is a POS. Gets stuck in mud all the time. My Toyota Tundra can run circles around it. As for Husky, I never liked them. I did have a '55 Ford F100 that was nice. But that was the only one I had that I liked.
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| | #65 |
| Former Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca
Posts: 2,497
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Windthrown, Could be. I'll have to check it out. It was originally supposed to come with a 20", but I requested the 25" with it, and they swapped it at no extra cost. Probably 70% of my work is on pines and firs. I was leanin more towards the 18" bar for the shorter one, but my Dealer mentioned a couple guys puttin shorter bars on their 361's and burnin em up. Sounded more like operator error to me, but I don't know. As for it attaining peak performance after everything seats propperly, I had also read that in the manual. However, it also said not to run it at high RPM's for the first 5 or six tankfulls or so. Is that really a problem? I found it difficult *not* to run it at higher-end RPM's yesterday. It's hard to cut through somethin that's 24" diameter without givin the saw the juice it needs to get it done. What's your advice on this? |
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| | #66 | |
| Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: orlando,fl
Posts: 4,948
| Quote:
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| | #67 | |
| Former Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,207
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You will be OK revving it. They are just covering their arses and do not want you maxing the engine out at peak revs and bogging it down a lot when it is new. Break her in a tad easier than you normally would run a saw. She will be fine. Ease up a tad... I know it is hard. About like buying a nice new sports car and having to limit the RPMs until its broken in. But in the long run it will be better. Nice that you got the 24/25" (I dunno why they call it a 25) for the cost of a 20". I would recommend a 20" if you are cutting mosly pine and fir. A 24" does fine even in black oak here. I have an 18" that came with my 361 and it seems small for it. I moved the 18" over to the 290 where it has a better home, and use the 20" that came on the 290 on the 361. A lot of guys around here use RM full skip. I use (and prefer) full comp (but I have skip). Running a smaller bar will not burn it up. Heck, you can crank up the oiler on a 361 and it will gush all over an 18 inch bar. I turned it down to half dose for that size, and up to full for the 24". All those guys back east run short bars. And in Europe too. We western cowboys all seem to prefer longer bars. Go figure... I like the 20 and 24 on the 361 best. A 22" would be perfect I think. But I cut mostly fir here; grand and Doug. But also black oak, maple and madrone. Madrone is tough on chains though. Seems to me that a longer bar has no big chain drag, and the chain speed is the same. Only when you come into contact with wood along the entire length of the bar is there a difference. If it bogs too much in that case go with skip and keep the revs up. And I have found that even with a 460 you can bog it down in fir even with a 20 inch bar on it. So... I say go long. Quote:
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| | #68 | |
| Former Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,207
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I had a limited edition Great Divide Range Rover, and I traded it in for my Tundra. Had a '67 Mustang too. Sloppy handeling, and bad electrical. Good body. The women loved it too. I loved my '65 Chevy Malibu. First car I had. Great on the road. Great electrical system. Great acceleration. Crappy Fischer body rusted out on me. Beemers are great, but like Rovers, once the warantee is up they plummet in value becasue they cost a fortune to maintain. These days I prefer Hondas and Toyotas. Easy to maintain, parts are available and they do not break down much. If I had your discount, I'd would get a Chevy or GMC PU. | |
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| | #69 |
| Former Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca
Posts: 2,497
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I used to love my Ford Bronco II. That thing was great. Was able to pull people outta roadside ditches here in the wintertime. Good side job when you're 16, flatlanders can't drive in precipitation. Can't do that with my Tacoma, but this toyota will run forever and retains its value well. My last toyota pickup truck I finished off at 420K miles. That probably has somethin to do with why I got another one. |
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| | #70 | |
| Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: orlando,fl
Posts: 4,948
| Quote:
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| | #71 | |
| Mature tree Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Troms, North Norway
Posts: 280
| Quote:
I believe what they refer to is high rpms out of wood, which is good advice..... ....or maybe it is about setting the carb a bit rich initially - which is common practise, and good advise as well. Anyway, they should have been more spesific, and 5 tanks is not enough for a propper run-in........ | |
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