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| | #1 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: missouri
Posts: 74
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as of right now im running a stihl 066 dual port muffler proably made around 1995. it was run over by a skidsteer and sat around for alot of years in perfect running condtion except for the carby/air filter area. well i bought it cheap and fixed it up. new factory sized carb and all new plastic. ran it for about 6 months and decided to put a bb kit on it from balies. now im wondering what else can i possibly do to improve preformance substantially? bigger carb, higher compression, muffler mods, air filter, woods porting or anything else that would make it cut faster. i just need refrences to ppl that can modify saws. i dont wan2 race saws just make the fastest 066 around where i live. oh i currently run a 20 inch bar with 3/8 oregon square chisel chain,im considering going to 404 if it will make it cut faster. thanks in advance for any ideas.
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| | #2 |
| Former Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,211
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1) Woods port it. 2) 404 has a wider kerf than 3/8, and thus will be slower cutting a wider swath in the wood. 3) 20 inch bar on an 066 is a waste of torque, IMO. Put an 8 pin rim on it and get more chain speed out of that bad boy. |
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| | #3 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: missouri
Posts: 74
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ok i was wondering about the 404 being slower. so on the woods porting is their somebody that i can send it to to have it done? and how much hp gain do you think there will be? and yea i suppose a 20 inch bar on a 66 might be a tad excessive but all i cut with this saw is shagbark hicory and thorny locust and none of it is ever under 15 inches in diamiter and i like to get done fast lol.
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| | #4 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: missouri
Posts: 74
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oh also on the 20 inch bar i always grind the rakers almost all the way off so that i can actually just set the saw on the log and let it eat. cant hardly even use the dogs cause it just stalls the saw out, got any ideas besides the 8 pin rim sprocket. maby an even more aggresive chain profile?
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| | #5 |
| Former Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: midwest
Posts: 589
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You could woods port your own or save the stihl oem top back and I hate to say this, but running one was believing. The aftermarket 4th Generation NWP Big Bore 066 kits are 99cc out of the box are very impressive and felt like a mildly woods ported saw IMHO, least I was and 2 others that ran it that day. About $119. Gobs of torque even with 9T 10T sprockets in small wood testing and rpm to boot. http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdet...item=BBN%20066 This video is with 9T but cut even faster with 10T. So the torque was there stock. |
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| | #6 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: missouri
Posts: 74
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so is it better than the woodland pro 56mm big bore kit thats on my saw now? if it is could i buy the nwp and get it woods ported? i want it to be right the first time so i would really prefer to send it to someone. and i dont care how much gas i burn as long as their is a power increase. and what about mufflers, i kno that i have the dual port on it now but could i buy a better flowing muffler or maby even a tuned pipe? and while im at it one of those oiled foam filters and a bigger carb? |
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| | #7 |
| Former Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: midwest
Posts: 589
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If your going to wood port just use the big bore one you got. I'm just saying the 4th generation BB kits are pretty hot out of the box. Lot better then the stock 1-3. If you got gen 1-3 not so hot. Open your muffler and see if you have the cage still inside where it comes out cylinder exhaust opening. Also look at your side exhaust outlet, is it the size of a pencil eraser or outlet completely the size of the deflector outlet. If you have the DP cover it dont need anything done to it. I tested stock new one compared to one that was opened a little more. Sending off to someone can cost you $150-$200, then you got some guys raping people for $250-$300. |
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| | #8 | |
| Former Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: midwest
Posts: 589
| Quote:
http://www.youtube.com/user/doemaster789#p/u/8/HDpqWxQm2qQ stihl 084 http://www.youtube.com/user/doemaster789#p/u/5/cTplf5etMes dolmar 166 http://www.youtube.com/user/doemaster789#p/u/3/-TSwxnmEy9g husky 3120 partner 5000 | |
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| | #9 |
| Former Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,211
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Several do good woods port jobs, but they can be spendy. If you are not mechanically inclined, I would have someone else do it. If you have the tools, time and aptitude you can do it yourself. I have woods ported several of my saws myself: 026s, 044s and 361s. I have modified a lot more mufflers and carbs. I am porting an 066 now, but that is sidelined with buying property. I took the advice of Tree Singer and saved some scored engines and practiced porting them with a dremel tool and emery paper on glass. I do light porting though; too much of a good thing can ruin a saw. I have run some so-called woods ported saws and they did not run that great. There are a lot of factors to consider when porting a saw, and a lot of places to go wrong with them. There are other threads here on TW that get into the details on porting, and the typical stages involved. The 3/8 vs 404 debate is about like the 3/8 vs 325 debate. There are many opinions on the size and type chain to use. I tend to file the rakers more than the recommended gauge depth to get a tad more grab, but filing them all the way down? In that case you may want to keep the torque of a 7 pin rim. Personally I prefer more chain speed. Power is a multiplier of torque and speed, and you need a good balance of them both. |
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| | #10 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: missouri
Posts: 74
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the airfilter kit im looking at is called max flow from balies. i dont much care for cleaning oiled filters but if it helps preformance than i can do it. the carb modifaction i was talking about was like taking a carb off an 088 or something like that and making it fit if it was possible.and on the woods porting who would be good to send it to? i dont want to spend any more than 500 on this saw but i might be able to stretch that a little. thanks for all the info so far.
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| | #11 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: missouri
Posts: 74
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oh and on the chain the reason that i was filing the rakers almost all the way down was because of it being so powerfull, it didnt even give the saw a workout with them filed the way they should be. one thing that i dont like about my setup right now is trying to plunge cut, its a bit of a workout lol. i didnt kno that they made a 10 sprocket, thats next on the list.
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| | #12 |
| Former Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: midwest
Posts: 589
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| | #13 |
| Sappling Join Date: May 2008 Location: georgia
Posts: 48
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the 066BB kit i received last night is very nice. the ports are nicely shaped. the only minor finish issue is that the bevel on the ports could be a little more consistant. it is not an issue that would effect performance or longevity, but i will be touching them up a little bf installation. i will say that there is not much room for improving the porting. the ports are already pretty much as wide as you can go. polishing the tracts, touching up the beveling, and setting the squish is about all i'm going to do on this kit.
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| | #14 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Florida
Posts: 78
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Great advice from WT. If you can get some scored or even junk motors that aren't scored, yardsales, craigslist, etc---from anything similar to what you want to port it's worth the extra time. Practice makes perfect, but the kicker here is practice makes you learn the things you otherwise wouldn't know. Get some old stihl weedeater, hedgetrimmers, blowers, etc, anything will work to let you get practice porting. Saw engines preferably the same thing you have, but anything will let you get your hands and eyes on the stuff and learn. If you break one of them, who cares. It'll save you a lot of heartache screwing up a saw you want to keep.
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| | #15 | |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: missouri
Posts: 74
| Quote: this is looking pretty good right now. maby i could strap the bottle to my back. lol | |
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| | #16 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: missouri
Posts: 74
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[QUOTE=windthrown;95839]Several do good woods port jobs please just tell me who these ppl are or some way that i can contact them so i can get my saw running better, thanks. |
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| | #17 |
| Former Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,211
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I know who some of these guys are, and I have met several in person. However, I do not have any way of getting ahold of them any longer, as they are on another online forum that cannot be listed here on this forum (forum rules). I am also no longer on that other forum myself (and some of them are banned from there now). I do not have their email addresses either. Sorry. Many of these chainsaw modification guys come and go. Its not like there is a list of these guys online... Several people that I know that have done saws in the past (I do not know if they still mod saws or not though) are: Jasha (Ft Jones, CA), Brad (Franklyn, OH), and Dean of Washington Hotsaws (Washington state). Online there is Zombieperformance in Roseburg, OR that advertizes several stages of chainsaw mods. Pretty spendy though. Maybe Cutty knows some people that are still doing this stuff. Maybe I will start modding saws for people when I get the shop set up in my new house next spring??? |
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| | #18 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: missouri
Posts: 74
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| | #19 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: missouri
Posts: 74
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well thanks for the lead i called zombie performance and talked to him and for his best port and polish job he said a 65% gain in preformance!!!!! ![]() is that what u all normally get when u woods port a saw? i put a 105cc bigger cylinder on my 4 stroke ktm dirt bike and only got like a 35% increase.
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| | #20 |
| Former Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,211
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You want a work saw or a racing saw? Work saws are woods ported, and less radical of a porting job. They run all day and all night. Racing saws are designed to be used in short races and not very long. I would be very skeptical of a woods port job claiming 65% gains. I have run some amazing woods ported saws, and the better ones are about 20-30% better than stock. I have also run some that are worse than stock. With racing saws, the sky is the limit. Piped, ported, shaved, tweeked, lightened, jetted, drilled, squished, popped up, special chains, av gas, etc. At some point you start to get past the design limits of the bearings, rod and low end components though. I have to ask, what you want to use your ported 066 saw for, anyway? Just to amaze people with? Or to run and cut wood? I mean, I know guys that have built Buick V-8 engine chainsaws, and motorcycle engine 'bike saws'. A 65% gain in a stock 066 would equate to a 12 HP saw. I do not think that the bearings could deal with that kind of torque. They say that the 066 has bullet-proof bearings, but I have blown them out in my 066 with only a DP muffler (10% gain?). They say that the 044 has weak bearings, but that sucker has no problem with a light port and DP muffler (20% gain). Also looking at Zombie's list of porting options, they do not seem to include turning the piston crown or cylinder base, or mechanical port timing. For about the money of a stage II Zombie port job, Jasha and others will usually do a full woods port job including: opening up and matching the muffler, widening/camphering/polishing the ports, turning the piston and cylinder to increase compression, opening up and polishing the piston ports and lowers, feathering the transfer ports, adjusting the mechanical and/or ignition timing, and trimming the limiter caps (takes 2 minutes). Removing the limiter caps is not a good idea on a Stihl; you want to only trim the tabs and replace them for keeping the carbs in tune. Last edited by windthrown; 29th August 2010 at 09:21 PM. |
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| | #21 |
| Former Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,211
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Some more saw modifiers from my older lists: Ken Dunn down in Oroville, CA (said to not be building saws any more), Big Dave Neiger in Michigan (also said to be in retirement from saw building), Ben up at NWCS in Washington state, and Dan Henry back east in Pennsylvania. |
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| | #22 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: missouri
Posts: 74
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yea i was wondering about a 65% gain myself. what would be the best way to find these other ppl so i can call them?
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| | #23 |
| Former Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,211
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PM me and I can give you the name of the forum that several that are still building saws are on (AS). You can contact them there.
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| | #24 |
| I'm new here so be nice Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: ohio
Posts: 3
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Where can I get the larger sprockets for the 066 to speed up the chain?
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| | #25 |
| Former Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,211
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Most dealers carry 8 pin rims for 3/8-404, as does Bailey's. I do not know who carries 9 and 10 pin rims, but I hear that they are available.
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| | #26 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: missouri
Posts: 74
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ok thanks for all the info. i finally found (AS) today lol. after much searching that is.
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