Starting your chainsaw

SawTroll

I do it in front of me, but I agree on left hand on the starter - I am right handed, but it feels much safer that way - like the saws are designed for it.

The chainbrake is used with long bars, and some times with saws that I haven't started before - and in thick undergrowth/high grass.

SawTroll

Mine sure is, unless the saw is flooded (5100S only) - but then the brake is on, for sure.

Willard Holmen

I do the most natural position of hand placement , left hand on top handle , right pulls starter and works switch controls. But yes I agree rear handle with right hand if flooding or freeze up problems. I have been there done that.
Willard

Perth David

I have to echo what JohN Dee says. Chainsaw components can be replaced when worn out, - fingers, legs, eyes, ears etc. cannot. Maybe if you were out of action for 6 months with a "no-chain-brake, drop-start-related injury" you'd have plenty of time to enjoy spending the few dollars you saved on maintenance by not using the chain brake when you start your saws. If you work out how many times you are going to start up a chainsaw over the length of your career, then remember that out of all those (over 50'000?), it only has to go wrong ONCE. Just ONCE, and you lose a piece of your body. Or one of your crew's. Aint worth it is it?

After reading this post I am determined to rid myself of the bad habit, I occasionally drop start.

David.

Ps, more of a reader than a poster, thanks for a great site Ekka & all regular contributers.

windthrown

Saws were originally designed for that way of starting (and remain that way). Back in the day, that was the way they trained us how to start a saw, and that was the way that it was shown in the owners' manuals. Then OSHA and the lawyers took over. But saws have not changed in regard to the setup for starting, other than the larger back handle base so that you can sort of get a foot in there, and adding decomps and Easy/Happy-Start to saws so that they can be started on the ground without taking your wrist off. Starting saws dozens of times a day it really becomes an issue if you start saws on the ground.

Drop starting here is using the left hand on the starter, and the right on the top handle. It is not the wild yo-yo throw using one hand on the starter and throwing the saw away from you with the other (as I have seen done in the days of old). That is a very bad idea. That unfortuantely is also called drop starting, and is often times confused with the 'proper' way to drop start chainsaws. Similar with starting the saw with your right hand on the back handle. 90% of pros I have worked with here and seen in the woods drop start their saws. Its standard practice in logging, and commonly done by most arborists here as well.

I tried OSHA ground starting saws for several months one year. My wrist was sore all the time. I decided that drop starting is safer. Personally I think that the potential wrist injury is higher starting saws on the ground (from the snap back on the starting cord). Also the position is wrong for starying saws scrunched over on the ground. It makes you off-balance. Very bad ergonomics. Food jamed into starter handle and all. I was starting a saw for a guy I was selling it to a few weeks ago and he was intrigued while watching me. He said that the saw blade naturally moved away from me as I started the saw with a drop start, and he was impressed. He decided it was a lot safer than he had perviously thought. Also for starting my 066 I had to compromise for the size of the saw. I usually set it on a log to start it. Similar to starting my big old MAC 380s with 36 inch bars. Drop start it on a log, without the drop.

Anyway, I am sure that this debate will rage on forever.

windthrown

Well, nothing has never happened to me from that ever, even once. I have never had any type of chainsaw injury, other than from vibration from running saws for too long a time. I have maybe a dozen or so saws now, and have owned and run maybe 50 different saws in all. Relying on the brake for safety when you start a saw is a dumb idea. What happens when you think that the brake is on, and it is not? THEN you are in trouble. In some situations I will set the saw brake to start my saws, as the Troll describes.

Also in the day, chainsaws did not have chain brakes. Funny, I do not recall reading about all the chainsaw starting injuries back then. My Oly, Macs and Homelites did not have them. My personal view and experience of where safety chain brakes are most needed is mainly for kickback situations. I have had saws kick back on me on many occasions, and in all events my left hand triggered the hand brake before the saw came up and back toward my head. It is instinctive, and automatic. I have hit my hardhat more than once that way. I also use the brake when handing a saw off when running, walking with a running saw, moving a saw to another cut in brush or when thinning, or when setting it down while it is running.

Willard Holmen

Your saying left hand on starter and right hand on top handle to drop start the saw? Now after the saw starts you now have to fumble switching hands putting the left hand on top handle and turning your saw 180 degrees to get your right hand on rear handle. Seems like alot of extra movement there to start your saw, dangerous too. Especially when the bar and chain is next to your leg while drop starting.
Like I said earlier the natural procedure is left hand on top handle, right hand on starter grip. Drop start the saw in a downward direction movement, no throwing away from you. In this position only the rewind housing can brush against your leg not the b/c as in the other position. No switching hands and turning saw after saw starts.
Saws are designed for right handed people, right hand majority rules.
Willard.

Bruce Hopf

Personally, I on occasion start by drop starting, on occasion, I'm kneeling down on my right knee, with my left knee holding down the chain saw (in flooded conditions) while holding the throttle at WOT, to get it to start. I also have rear handle pinned between my legs, as I start the chain saw.
All with the chain brake off. Relying on a chain brake, I agree can be dangerous. What do I mean by this, is that it is Man Made, and is Mechanical, and Mechanical things are known to FAIL, when you expect, or count on them to work.
I also strongly believe, that it is up to the individual, circumstances, and of the position of the operator is in, as long as the operator has knowledge, and aware with what he is doing, and is doing it safety as possible, and has the situation under control, as he is starting the chain saw. I feel that this is very important.
Now to go and say, that nothing has never, or ever happened, I feel that this is just luck, on his side. Why do I say this. This is why.
I've heard a lot of people say such things as never, or ever will happen, well sooner or later, something does happen, not right away, but in time it does, and they get bit, and hard.
Seen it happen too many times, where Cockiness, and Arrogance, to a given situation, leads into an accident, or worse, disaster, so what ever way you attempt to start your chain saw, do it to cut another day, and please be safe while working with these machines. Thanks. Bruce.

__________________
McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

windthrown

Well, if you think that I am just an arrogant SOB for having pride in a 100% safety record when using chainsaws, so be it. You think its just dumb luck? I think its experience and ability. When I was 12 my dad handed me the smaller Homelite (no chain brake on that thing) and said, "Its time that you learn how to use this thing." He then dragged home one of his wiley old sawyer buddies that taught me how to sharpen, start and use a saw, and fall a tree. Then fall many more trees. Then he taught me how to run a bulldozer, but that's a different story. Anyway, I learned the old school way. And yah know what? That method works.

Since then we seem to have fallen into a world where we have to cater to the least common denominator of the most uncoordinated moronic idiot using a chainsaw, and as a result of lawsuits filed for hot coffee spilled while cutting a three inch DBH tree down in his back yard. We all have to do things the safest way possible, or suffer the consequences of OSHA coming along, or having to file a workmans comp claim and some goon asking us if the brake was set, and was the saw started on the ground, and was the saw being used in the right position, and were you wearing the OSHA certified PPE, were you wearing your hard hat, did you have your safety reflective vest on, were you wearing steel toed certified shoes, did you have certified kevlar chaps on, and were you... blah blah blah.

Hell, I will take being an arrogant SOB and dumb luck over all this bull shit that they have come up with for chainsaws now and what passes for safety any day of the week. But that's me...

Treeson

Cold start - saw on ground lt hand on handle, rt hand on starter, chainbrake on.
Warm start - saw locked between legs, lt hand on handle, rt on starter, chainbrake on.

MS200T locked between legs, lt hand on handle, rt on starter, chainbrake on cold or warm.

No saw gets sent up to me cold -simple!

Lignum

That is exactly I start all of mine.

hddnis

Sorry, but starting a 200t that way sure sounds like the impending end of the family line.

That is one wicked little saw to have in that general locality.

If'n I'm topside and starting I set the brake, left on the loop, right on the starter handle, smooth pulling/pushing motion and the saw starts. Other way, top handle saws only, depending on clearance, is right hand on top handle and left on starter pull, then release the brake and go to work.




Mr. HE

windthrown

Which way?

As for starting saws, you can do a cross draw, left hand on the top handle, right hand on the starter. I do that when starting in cramped positions and at times when I am in trees and such. But it is far easier to start with my left hand. Right handed persons have more control starting the saw with the right hand gripping the saw (at least I do, but I have bad tendonitis in my left arm).

KiwiBro

Before the poulan brake broke, it would be the brake for cold starts and sitting down while idling, otherwise drop starts. That's when it would bother to start at all. Now, with no brake at all and a saw that just don't want to idle, she's not a saw for the safety conscious.

When my shiny new stihl gets here, I might try and figure out if I can take the brake off. you see, then I can be sure no bugger is gonna want to borrow it off me

Bruce Hopf

It's plan and simple, don't lend out your chain saw, or tools out to anyone, and leave the chain brake, well alone.
Could come in handy on day, when you least expect it. Bruce.

__________________
McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

KiwiBro

It only has to be off long enough for the word to get out that I'm a crazy bugger with a man-eating chainsaw, then I can put it back on without having to say "no" b/c nobody will ever ask.

Better still, I could just fix the brake on the obstinate poulan and use that as my loaner.

KiwiBro

Hey, I just noted there's 10 other users in the poll with saws devoid of brakes. Quite a few of us 'accidents waiting to happen'. ever since the chain brake broke on the poulan, I have certainly been more careful and less reckless, knowing I have less margin for error. Who'da thunk it? Certainly not OSH (the health and safety people here).

I don't envy any employers in these industries, having to worry about staff and keep up with the rules and regulations and the costs of doing so.

Willard Holmen

It seems I missed a fair ammount of excitement "aimed" at me on this thread before it was cleaned up. At the time I was at a snowmobile rally and dinner/dance. The next day this thread looks different. But I'm cool , all is forgotten, lets just leave it at that.
Here's some drawings of saw starting, maybe these will help, and yes chainbrake on.
Willard.

Attached Thumbnails

   

Bruce Hopf

The first drawing that you showed, is how I used to start my chain saws, for a lot of years (almost 29 years of running chain saws). I found sometimes, it somewhat very hard for me to get back too my feet, and standing up, because of a bad back condition.
The second picture, is how I mostly start my chain saws now, the odd time the way you described, as how you drop start your chain saw.
The odd time, I have a difficult start up, or the chain saw gets flooded, I'll put the chain saw on the ground, and get it started, the way I used to the chain saw, in the past.

__________________
McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

Willard Holmen

Thanks Bruce for quoting my post for the ignore list folks.
Here is another picture of how I drop start my saw as I previousily explained. The only trouble is, it has a big X through it.
Willard.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Bruce Hopf

Not a problem Willard.
I don't start my chain saw that way, but similar to that. I have the chain saw, in my left hand, turned to the out side of my left leg, with the fan housing against my thigh, and the bar pointing some what behind me.
I also have the wrap around handle as a stop ride against my outer part of my left thigh, and knee, which helps to prevent the chain saw from jumping inward, with the guide bar, or the chain saw, coming around any further, and the guide bar, and chain from coming into contact with me at all.
As I pull the starter rope, and push the chain saw down, I can hold it decently, against my thigh, in a straight downward motion.
I find it, a little easier to control the chain saw for starting, that way to too, and the bar of the chain saw, is no where in front of me, like what you have posted here in the picture. Thanks again. Bruce.

__________________
McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

Willard Holmen

The drop start picture was drawn to look as dangerous as possible with the b/c on the left leg.
Your right the rewind housing should slid down the left leg.
Willard

Bruce Hopf

Hi Willard.
I kind of figured that you were using that diagram, as a NO NO, for starting your chain saw. I'm quite sure that I could never picture you starting a chain saw that way, especially, when you worked in some of those timber camps. You probably wouldn't have walked out of the camp on your own, if you did, with some of those fellas that I heard a bit about, that worked in some of those camps. Well around here in Ontario anyway. Thanks again. Bruce.

__________________
McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

Willard Holmen

You know Bruce some of the best loggers in Canada came out of Ontario and Quebec. Just like the early eastern seaboard loggers in the US who made their way to the west coast back in the day.
I'm proud to admit the honour I have had working alongside these icons in our northern Manitoba timber camps. These guys helped make me strong. Hell we didn't need a gun to settle an argument, we used our fists!!
You can quote this for our ignore list folks Bruce

Willard.

Bruce Hopf

. I know what you are talking about. My Great Grandfather's Uncle, was one of those men, who did a lot of farm land clearing, of bush, in this area. Dad told me that, They would make Hulk Hogan, look small, as muscle bound anyways. Bruce.

__________________
McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

Eric Frei

I like how they put the decomp buttons in easy finger access spots for a drop start.

__________________

Therrin

This thread =





I still gotta make a picture of holding the saw with the b/c between your legs and put a big red X through it just incase some folks havent figured out the other wrong way to do it.

Attached Thumbnails

 

windthrown

Cut4fun

Everyone is just plain wrong . To be safe put your saw on ground reach down with both hands as quickly as you can, left hand on handle, right hand pulling starter handle as fast as you can and get it to the wood.
Practice till you can get it right and a second or faster.

Bruce Hopf

windthrown. I can understand, that you are proud of your 100% safety record, and I do honour that. I really do. There is nothing wrong with taking pride in ones work. I'm the same way.
I was taught about chain saws, since I was 7, or 8, by my great uncle, and by my Dad. I started running chain saws, when I was 15. Dad just bought the McCulloch Pro Mac 700 chain saw, that is in my signature. Dad made me read the Doe's, and don'ts of running a chain saw, and gave me an oral test, before he was satisfied, that I could run a chain saw.
So, like you, I too was taught the proper way, to be as careful as possible, have a back up plan, while felling a tree, as we both know, a tree can go, the opposite, of what was planned, and to work a safe as we can, so we can cut fire wood another day.
What I was getting at, or trying to get at, that there is a lot of people out there (not including you here windthrown), that they think that nothing will ever happen to them, never, and when something does happen, they say that, that was not supposed to happen, or if the get into a serious accident, they cheated death.
I know, that you always, always take into consideration, of what is going on, around you, at all times, while you are working with chain saws, and equipment. Guys like you, I'd be honored to work beside you, in the bush.
I've always said, there are two kinds of people out there. One cares about what they are doing, and try to do it as safe as possible (like yourself), and those that don't give a crap, of what is happening around them, and those people are the most dangerous, to be around.
I've worked with a couple guys, and boy, they are not safe to be around. One is my ex-brother in law, and the other is my Mothers Boyfriend. My ex-brother in law, is a dangerous person to be around, when he is working with a chain saw. He is just a plain hacker, when he runs a chain saw. He has a few stitches, from a cut.
My Mothers boyfriend, operates a chain saw, with one hand, while his other hand, has his thumb shoved up his arse, and will argue, that there is nothing wrong while cutting that way.
He will argue, about what a chain brake is for, and when asked, how does the chain brake work, when his left hand is off of the wrap around handle, if a kick back occurs. He will still argue that there was nothing wrong with what he had done, or the way he runs a chain saw.
My neighbour father in law, was the Most dangerous person I had ever seen. This guy was attempting to cut a tree down, that had a bad leaning three into it, that was blew down, standing underneath the leaning tree, with an axe, trying to pound in a wedge.
I told my neighbour, that, that was the Most dangerous attempt to get a leaning tree down, and told him to cut the stump off of the leaning tree, and pull it out with the tractor, and I left them to it.
I'm very sorry windthrown, that you took this the wrong way. I didn't mean for that to happen. I was not pointing any fingers at you, and I do know, and understand where you are coming from, about people suing, one another, regulations, that is in place (some are way, way, way over board), and Workers Comp.
So once again, I apologize to you windthrown, if you took this the wrong way. Keep up the good safety record. Bruce.

__________________
McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).