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| View Poll Results: How do you start your saw? | |||
| I routinely start my chainsaw with the chain brake ON, and have no trouble with it. | | 127 | 39.32% |
| I start my saws with the chainbrake OFF, I thought everyone did?? | | 173 | 53.56% |
| I also dropstart my saws. | | 160 | 49.54% |
| I use handsaws and scissors, chainsaws are for crazy people. | | 5 | 1.55% |
| My chainsaw doesnt have a brake | | 21 | 6.50% |
| Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 323. You may not vote on this poll | |||
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| | #391 |
| Sappling Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 40
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Hey man I'll only write what I can back up.my next situation that is adequate to show u I'll video and post it.I'm not a show off but pushed myself to be the best I can with the saw.it's good to be proud of what we do.and it ain't luck mate,as Shigo said feel the tree.well I feel the saw aswell.we use to race our saws,kickback comps,use it behind our back top of bar blah blah.it taught us limits.Anyway I'm new to this site and wana keep the peace but tell it how I do it.so take it how ya want to.and I think I'm goin off track with the thread sorry. |
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| | #392 |
| Admin - Owner Palm & Tree Services in Brisbane Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 12,994
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| | #393 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Florida
Posts: 77
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As for the handle between the legs thing...If you place it there, then cross your arms. Put your right hand on front handle and pull starter rope handle with your left hand, across the top of the saw. It'll keep the bar from being able to hit your face or you can be sure to lock your elbow on the non-starting arm and accomplish the same. I have heard (circa 1994 when working in the PNW) that crossing your ankles, and arms was an OSHA approved starting method. I never verified that, but it does seem somewhat safer if your footing is clear and level.
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| | #394 | |
| Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,557
| Quote:
__________________ My business: Tree Pruning and Removals -- Strump Removals -- Advice -- Consulting -- Arborist Reports Consulting Forester If you want an honest opinion, call Brent Ferris...because, Trees want to Live Too ! We do great jobs, even in small yards. Free Estimates Oakville to Oshawa - North to Bradford (Will travel further if cost of travelling covered) Email -- treeshaveneeds@3web.com Cell 416-460-5704 | |
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| | #395 | |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Aspen Park,Colorado
Posts: 76
| Quote:
Ok, Two questions, just tried that position as described. If the saw gets your arm and you drop it, it's gonna hit your leg or your foot? Then you're bleeding in two places. And how is crossing your arms safer? Just seems more awkward to me. Maybe a third question...What about a right hand start saw? Do ya cross yer arms twice or maybe OSHA doesn't acknowledge them. If starting your saw scares you that much, maybe you shouldn't do it!
__________________ Vintage Chainsaws, Parts, Restorations, Custom Work, Special Saws on Request and Much More. Please visit our webalbum: http://picasaweb.google.com/APSELLC or our website https://apse.mybigcommerce.com/ APSE-LLC Email:apse-llc@live.com Phone:720-260-0157 Business Hours: Tuesday Through Friday 9-6 Saturday 9-5 Rocky Mountain Time, USA If ya got sumthin' ya can't find we'd be glad to try and help ya! Brian and Tina : | |
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| | #396 |
| Sappling Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 15
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Perhaps it's not correct, but here's how I do it: COLD Start: Saw on the ground, chain brake OFF. Left hand on top handle, right hand on pull handle (so arms are 'crossed' I suppose). Right foot stabilizing on or in the rear handle or anywhere on rear of saw (depending on design) and I give her a pull. Sometimes have to be quick to switch right hand to the throttle but saw never gets away from me this way and and it works for me ![]() HOT start: Chain brake is ON, drop and yank! Yee haw, blippety-blip-blip |
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| | #397 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: South Coast
Posts: 126
| yes pretty much everyday.. piece of piss .. its tiny
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| | #398 | |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: South Coast
Posts: 126
| Quote:
__________________ http://www.arbtrain.com.au | |
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| | #399 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: South Coast
Posts: 126
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Hi all .. i didnt want to wade into this because it seemed like too much of a can of worms ,, ( and also because i WAS AMAZED at the amount of blokes that drop start saws - brake off ),, and i didnt want to offend anyone.. but enough is enough,, stress on the engine ( which is tiny if you do it correctly ) is irrelevant- human safety outweights it by miles ,, kickback CANNOT be " dodged" ,, im sorry - but its not possible- and yes i have the training video from both stihl & husky to prove it - a mongoose would be lucky to dodge it. The training standards state that a saw must be controled and the brake on .. end of story,, i'm not saying i'm some great hero who has been doing this longest .. but i have started a fair few saws in my time ,, in the air ,, on the ground, cold,, hot ,, the lot.. and even real big saws DONT need to be drop started. ( i understand extreme cold climates may have a bearing here but im an aussie and usually sweating like a pig ,, not shivering), Injury stats tell the story- no one has ever had their face ripped off by a saw started CORRECTLY and the chain brake on- it cannot happen - thats the point, just my point of view ( backed by every training organisation i have ever encountered).. standards are standards and safety is safety.. PS .. yes .." technically" i drop my top handled climbing saw - because it is designed that way.. but the brake is on. -always..
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| | #400 |
| Sappling Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Camp
Posts: 7
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When I went to get re-certified I was shown a different way: put bar on a downed tree. Roll it forward while pulling the rope.* Works really well when warm. Cold, I set it on the ground with boot through the handle and pull away. * National Forest Service "C" recert. |
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| | #401 |
| Sappling Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: New Hampshire, USA
Posts: 41
| Hello, I'm all about safety, I always start my saws with the chain brake on, every time. What ever wear and tear it causes with the saw, I don't care. I have been cuttin' trees for 15 years with no accidents or injuries. I ain't braggin', I'm just all about safety. I also start my 200t up in the tree with the chain brake on, 170lbs compression, no problem. What ever you do, how ever you choose to do it, remember, Work safe.NHlocal. |
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| | #402 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: AUS
Posts: 134
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I would start a saw with the brake on, right foot in the handle every time. Drop starting is only for top handle saws in the tree. (No D to get the foot in even if you could) You should only ever drop start a ground saw if you are either too tired or weak to do it the proper way. The best way to get hurt is to drop start your saw, brake off when limbing a heap of dry, hard branches. Dont forget your safety thongs. |
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| | #403 | |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: South Coast
Posts: 126
| Quote:
If you cant do it "the proper way".. you dont do it.. if you are fatigued- its time to have a break/ knock off 4 the day... tree work is very physical- theres no shame in being tired.... stay safe.. Geoff/Arbtrain
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| | #404 |
| Sappling Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: New Hampshire, USA
Posts: 41
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Hello, ![]() if you have to short cut safe procedure then it shouldn't be done at all. Everyone should know at what point of physical fatigue it's time to call it a day, it's different for everyone. But it's not worth risking serious injury or worse to get that "one more cut". Thanks for listening, I'm off my soapbox now. I just don't like hearing about people getting hurt.![]() Work safe! NHlocal. |
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| | #405 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: AUS
Posts: 134
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Sorry about the wording on that last post. What I meant was "Only the tired and weak drop start their ground saws" The way I wrote it the first time sounds better if you could see my sarcasm. Notice how the majority of "drop starteurs" have not replied here. Pah! |
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| | #406 |
| Sappling Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: New Hampshire, USA
Posts: 41
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Hello BlackMoses, ![]() I took no offense at all from what you said. As I said, I hate hearing about others getting hurt when it could(should) have been avoided. Thanks for posting.Work safe! NHlocal. |
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| | #407 |
| I'm new here so be nice Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Victoria Australia
Posts: 3
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Cold starts I do choke on, saw on the ground, foot in the rear handle. Warm stars I do using the between your leg technique. Chain break on all the time. I’ve seen a similar kickback video to yours Eric by Stihl during a recent training day and was blown away by the speed of the return. We watched that over and over and noticed how the Quickstop inertia chain breaking system on the Stihl engaging just after the saw had begun its rearward travel. I’m not sure if it would work in all situations but nice to know it is there. |
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| | #408 | |
| I'm new here so be nice Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: UK
Posts: 1
| Quote:
I read the problems of starting all your saws with horror, cant beleive how many saws are not set up right and in need of some urgent tuning. It's simple basics that everyone using a saw should know, a hard to start saw is a dangerous saw.... you pull & pull then frustration sets in and you slip. Too late then | |
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| | #409 |
| Sappling Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: nsw
Posts: 14
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I pretty much always drop start my 029, never chain brake on with choke/high idle, the new 660 cold start it on ground no chain brake. I'm happy to start warm saw with chain brake on, just not cold or high idle! If I was working for someone and they wanted me to start their saw with brake on, no worries, just won't do it with my saws. ![]() |
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