Saw maintenance

beaker · 8th June 2011, 08:06 PM

Hi all, what basic maintenance do you carry out on your saws during the slow days when the weather does not permit much else,also what do you use to clean the black sticky pine sap stuff off your saws ?

cheers

kaazih · 8th June 2011, 11:12 PM

Petrol or white spirit removes the pine sap. Tequila probably works too.

Basic maintenance gets done everyday!

Slow days is when the spark plug comes out, clutch comes off, side covers off and everything gets a good blow out with compressed air. Re-grease the needle cage. That way your saws never end up at the dealer for repair or servicing (assuming you're running a quality saw like stihl or husqvarna)

Get the workshop/parts manuals on CD (STIHL saws) to help out

Get/borrow an electronic tacho so you can tune your own saws

Steve

Rob Chace · 9th June 2011, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kaazih

Petrol or white spirit removes the pine sap. Tequila probably works too.

Basic maintenance gets done everyday!

Slow days is when the spark plug comes out, clutch comes off, side covers off and everything gets a good blow out with compressed air. Re-grease the needle cage. That way your saws never end up at the dealer for repair or servicing (assuming you're running a quality saw like stihl or husqvarna)

Get the workshop/parts manuals on CD (STIHL saws) to help out

Get/borrow an electronic tacho so you can tune your own saws

Steve

^^^whs

Levi Parkin · 10th June 2011, 02:15 PM

This is one thing the last two companies I've worked for have lacked. It makes no sense to me why you'd let a perfectly good saw get run down. Those are the tools we used to make our money afterall.

kaazih · 10th June 2011, 07:44 PM

Also, make sure you have two chains for each saw. If there's time at the end of the day or before you start work the next day, sharpen the chain that's already on the saw. Then remove the newly sharpened chain, service the bar - clean grove, oil holes and remove burrs - flip the bar over and install your other chain (which of course is sharp since you sharpened it yesterday)

So at the start of the day, your chain is sharp and you have a spare (sharpened) just in case. Although I'll usually just re-sharpen the already installed chain if I hit some dirt/metal/stone/or a discarded tequila bottle - damn those mexicans.

When you have a few spare dollars, buy a new chain, but don't use it yet. Do the same again when your other two chains are coming up for retirement.

If you're a careful cutter, you'll hardly ever hit dirt. Always clean around those stumps and use a blower to help before starting the final cut. Be a pro and make sure your last cut is level too, even if the stump grinder is coming in later - it's good practice

There are enough other frustrations in this industry without having to worry about having a saw in good working order. At least you can control the later to some degree.

If you're running STIHL saws, get the following tools, T20 and T27 torx (star bit) drivers and an 8mm nut driver. That way you can strip your saws down easily (OK, not removing flywheel, head or splitting the crankcase...) As a bonus, you'll never have to replace a nut or screw since you know they're always sufficiently tightened and will never come loose during the day.

always arborlicious and treethinking,
steve

beaker · 10th June 2011, 10:45 PM

Great thanks for that Im new to the industry but love my saws I only have 2 stihls and a husky .
Thanks again
cheers
Beaker

APSE · 14th June 2011, 02:23 PM

The most common thing that we see that is overlooked is cleaning. Chainsaws ingest a very large amount of sawdust and bar oil, mixed together they make an internal mess that reduces the airflow for cooling etc. If you keep your saw clean inside and out, you will get more longevity out of it, because it will cool and function correctly. Also clean the bar, grooves, and oiler hole for better life. Also run the saw at an idle until it runs out of gas before storage then you will avoid carb problems as well. And PLEASE don't use the pressure washer to clean it up as we see so many people do...It just creates a different set of problems!

John Vander · 14th June 2011, 02:52 PM

Some guys run it out of gas but forget that some gas still remains in the carb. Run it out of gas, then crank it a couple of times. It might (and usualy does) fire up again. Get that leftover gas out. Crank it till it's completely dead. Mixed fuel also runs down after about a month. Make sure your mix is fresh.

APSE · 14th June 2011, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kunugi john

Some guys run it out of gas but forget that some gas still remains in the carb. Run it out of gas, then crank it a couple of times. It might (and usualy does) fire up again. Get that leftover gas out. Crank it till it's completely dead. Mixed fuel also runs down after about a month. Make sure your mix is fresh.

Good point! Also a good fuel stabilizer is beneficial, as most of them will keep the fuel good for about a year.

John Vander · 15th June 2011, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by APSE

Good point! Also a good fuel stabilizer is beneficial, as most of them will keep the fuel good for about a year.

APSE, can you recommend a good stabilizer? Here in Japan, the humidity and heat gets so bad that mixed fuel sometimes only lasts up to 2 weeks!

APSE · 17th June 2011, 02:17 PM

kunugi John,

Here in the states we have a product that is called Sta-bil, it has been a good stabilizer for years. Many of the two stroke oils sold here also have a stabilizer mixed in with them, that would only be helpful for your two stroke premixes, though. There are a few other stabilizers that have cropped up in the last couple of years, haven't heard anything bad about any of them. I would think searching the internet might get you some results for what is available in your area...
Hope that helps,

John Vander · 21st June 2011, 10:42 AM

APSE, I'll check with my local Stihl dealer here. You can get some American products here in Japan. I'll try to look up some local stuff too.

Bruce Hopf · 21st June 2011, 05:21 PM

About two, three times a year (depends on how much fire wood I cut), I pull the bar cover, bar, clutch hub, clutch, cover for the brake spring, top cover, air filter cover, air filter, fuel tank assembly, starter assembly, and take everything, out to my work shop, and use the engine wash blow gun, with siphon hose, to put into a var sol jug, and blow, and wash the gunk off of everything, with that, then just an air gun, to blow everything dry, from all the covers, and the engine components.
As I assemble the clutch, and the clutch hub. I use white grease, for the needle bearing, for the clutch hub, and assemble everything back together.
I take the bar, to the table sander, with a drum, and a disc, and take the burs, from the edges of the guide bar, and square the bar up again, so that both edges, are even, top, and bottom. I then use a table parts washer, and tub, to clean the grooves, of the bar, and flush out the roller nose, for the bar. I then grease the roller nose, bar, and install it with a sharp chain, and that chain saw, is ready to go.
I check, and clean the spark plug, if too fouled, I change it with a new plug, and with the parts washer, on the work bench, I flush out the air filter, and set to dry. Once dry, I install the air filter, and the air filter cover. Bruce.

John Vander · 22nd June 2011, 10:40 AM

When putting a new chain on your saw, run the saw at a low speed for a minute or so, as to allow the new chain to "set". The chain's rivets, cutters and tie-straps need to get used to the tension while running on the bar. Don't tension up the chain like a bow string. New tension on the chain is also introduced when the chain makes it's first cut. Wade into it, and don't just suddenly plunge the saw into a trunk with the same girth as your beer-belly. Make a few simple cuts at first. Considering the price and maintenance of chains, it's worth making a good start.

NHlocal · 9th August 2011, 07:51 AM

Hello,

I have been reading this thread on saw maintenance, a lot of great information.

I do have a question for everyone who reads this post.

What works the best for cleaning up the outside (covers/tank/handle) of the saw?

Things like pitch, tree sap, oil stains etc.

I would like to keep them looking as good as they are running. Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thank you and work safe.

NHlocal.

NHlocal · 9th August 2011, 01:09 PM

Hello,

I've got another question I wanted to throw in, sorry goin' off subject,

before
I forget again. On a freshly rebuilt saw what is the best/recommended way to
"break it in"? All my saws were well "broken in" by the time I got them. Again,
I appreciate any and all input. Thanks again,

work safe.

NHlocal.

rogue60 · 10th August 2011, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NHlocal

Hello,

I've got another question I wanted to throw in, sorry goin' off subject,

before
I forget again. On a freshly rebuilt saw what is the best/recommended way to
"break it in"? All my saws were well "broken in" by the time I got them. Again,
I appreciate any and all input. Thanks again,

work safe.

NHlocal.

myself running in a rebuilt saw i do nothing special,warm the saw up before cutting and see its running right,and i just make it run a little rich for about a tank of fuel.. i dont baby it, i give it full throttle and go for it..well thats what i do works for me never had a saw blow up,by the way i only use genuine stihl parts..i dont know how that aftermarket stuff goes you can buy on ebay...

NHlocal · 11th August 2011, 08:02 AM

Hello rogue60,

Thanks for the input, I've heard basically the same
suggestion from a few others. I'll go with that,

thanks again,
work safe.

NHlocal

NHlocal · 15th August 2011, 08:01 AM

Hello,

I'm still trying to get a little help

getting the
outside of my saws clean

(pitch,tree sap,oil,grime).

Any and all suggestions and/or recommendations will be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks.

Work safe.

NHlocal

John Vander · 7th September 2011, 02:52 PM

by the way i only use genuine stihl parts..i dont know how that aftermarket stuff goes you can buy on ebay...[/QUOTE]

Good point! Stick to genuine parts only. They might be a bit more pricey, but in the long run it's better than screwing up your entire saw ! Don't buy cheap fuel mixes either. Stihl fuel mix has done wonders for my machines. (Not only chainsaws but other equipment too.)

NHlocal · 20th September 2011, 11:19 AM

Hello,

Thanks for the good advice on using genuine Stihl replacement parts and Stihl fuel mix.
I'm still looking for a "good" (easy) way to get pine pitch off my
equipment, can any one help me out with that??? I welcome any and
all suggestions.
Work safe!

NHlocal.

John Vander · 21st September 2011, 10:32 AM

I've used kerosene until now, and I've had no problem. The kerosene dissolves the pitch pretty o.k.

NHlocal · 21st September 2011, 07:33 PM

Hello,

Thanks for the tip, I'll give it try and let you
know how it works out. Work safe.

NHlocal

Sam Beazley · 6th October 2011, 04:53 PM

Because most my work is removing palm trees i strip the saws down and clean them everyday.sharpen the chains and spray the bar chain and clutch with WD40 to keep it free of rust.if not working on palms ill clean my saw out every friday and keep enough sharp chainsaws for each saw to last me till friday.

MrDiesel · 6th October 2011, 07:32 PM

During the rain days I like to put out the oil worm gear and inspect/replace it. They are a cheap item to replace but seem to cause problems when you least want them.

8th June 2011, 08:06 PM	#1
beaker Sappling Join Date: May 2010 Location: Kaitoke, New Zealand Posts: 15	Saw maintenance Hi all, what basic maintenance do you carry out on your saws during the slow days when the weather does not permit much else,also what do you use to clean the black sticky pine sap stuff off your saws ? cheers

8th June 2011, 11:12 PM	#2
kaazih Sappling Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Australia Posts: 28	Re: Saw maintenance Petrol or white spirit removes the pine sap. Tequila probably works too. Basic maintenance gets done everyday! Slow days is when the spark plug comes out, clutch comes off, side covers off and everything gets a good blow out with compressed air. Re-grease the needle cage. That way your saws never end up at the dealer for repair or servicing (assuming you're running a quality saw like stihl or husqvarna) Get the workshop/parts manuals on CD (STIHL saws) to help out Get/borrow an electronic tacho so you can tune your own saws Steve

10th June 2011, 02:15 PM	#4
Levi Parkin Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Kansas Posts: 213	Re: Saw maintenance This is one thing the last two companies I've worked for have lacked. It makes no sense to me why you'd let a perfectly good saw get run down. Those are the tools we used to make our money afterall.

10th June 2011, 07:44 PM	#5
kaazih Sappling Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Australia Posts: 28	Re: Saw maintenance Also, make sure you have two chains for each saw. If there's time at the end of the day or before you start work the next day, sharpen the chain that's already on the saw. Then remove the newly sharpened chain, service the bar - clean grove, oil holes and remove burrs - flip the bar over and install your other chain (which of course is sharp since you sharpened it yesterday) So at the start of the day, your chain is sharp and you have a spare (sharpened) just in case. Although I'll usually just re-sharpen the already installed chain if I hit some dirt/metal/stone/or a discarded tequila bottle - damn those mexicans. When you have a few spare dollars, buy a new chain, but don't use it yet. Do the same again when your other two chains are coming up for retirement. If you're a careful cutter, you'll hardly ever hit dirt. Always clean around those stumps and use a blower to help before starting the final cut. Be a pro and make sure your last cut is level too, even if the stump grinder is coming in later - it's good practice There are enough other frustrations in this industry without having to worry about having a saw in good working order. At least you can control the later to some degree. If you're running STIHL saws, get the following tools, T20 and T27 torx (star bit) drivers and an 8mm nut driver. That way you can strip your saws down easily (OK, not removing flywheel, head or splitting the crankcase...) As a bonus, you'll never have to replace a nut or screw since you know they're always sufficiently tightened and will never come loose during the day. always arborlicious and treethinking, steve

10th June 2011, 10:45 PM	#6
beaker Sappling Join Date: May 2010 Location: Kaitoke, New Zealand Posts: 15	Re: Saw maintenance Great thanks for that Im new to the industry but love my saws I only have 2 stihls and a husky . Thanks again cheers Beaker

14th June 2011, 02:23 PM	#7
APSE Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Aspen Park,Colorado Posts: 76	Re: Saw maintenance The most common thing that we see that is overlooked is cleaning. Chainsaws ingest a very large amount of sawdust and bar oil, mixed together they make an internal mess that reduces the airflow for cooling etc. If you keep your saw clean inside and out, you will get more longevity out of it, because it will cool and function correctly. Also clean the bar, grooves, and oiler hole for better life. Also run the saw at an idle until it runs out of gas before storage then you will avoid carb problems as well. And PLEASE don't use the pressure washer to clean it up as we see so many people do...It just creates a different set of problems! __________________ Vintage Chainsaws, Parts, Restorations, Custom Work, Special Saws on Request and Much More. Please visit our webalbum: http://picasaweb.google.com/APSELLC or our website https://apse.mybigcommerce.com/ APSE-LLC Email:apse-llc@live.com Phone:720-260-0157 Business Hours: Tuesday Through Friday 9-6 Saturday 9-5 Rocky Mountain Time, USA If ya got sumthin' ya can't find we'd be glad to try and help ya! Brian and Tina :

14th June 2011, 02:52 PM	#8
John Vander Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: May 2011 Location: Oita Prefecture, Japan Posts: 135	Re: Saw maintenance Some guys run it out of gas but forget that some gas still remains in the carb. Run it out of gas, then crank it a couple of times. It might (and usualy does) fire up again. Get that leftover gas out. Crank it till it's completely dead. Mixed fuel also runs down after about a month. Make sure your mix is fresh. __________________ "What kills a skunk is the publicity it gives itself." Abraham Lincoln

17th June 2011, 02:17 PM	#11
APSE Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Aspen Park,Colorado Posts: 76	Re: Saw maintenance kunugi John, Here in the states we have a product that is called Sta-bil, it has been a good stabilizer for years. Many of the two stroke oils sold here also have a stabilizer mixed in with them, that would only be helpful for your two stroke premixes, though. There are a few other stabilizers that have cropped up in the last couple of years, haven't heard anything bad about any of them. I would think searching the internet might get you some results for what is available in your area... Hope that helps, __________________ Vintage Chainsaws, Parts, Restorations, Custom Work, Special Saws on Request and Much More. Please visit our webalbum: http://picasaweb.google.com/APSELLC or our website https://apse.mybigcommerce.com/ APSE-LLC Email:apse-llc@live.com Phone:720-260-0157 Business Hours: Tuesday Through Friday 9-6 Saturday 9-5 Rocky Mountain Time, USA If ya got sumthin' ya can't find we'd be glad to try and help ya! Brian and Tina :

21st June 2011, 10:42 AM	#12
John Vander Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: May 2011 Location: Oita Prefecture, Japan Posts: 135	Re: Saw maintenance APSE, I'll check with my local Stihl dealer here. You can get some American products here in Japan. I'll try to look up some local stuff too. __________________ "What kills a skunk is the publicity it gives itself." Abraham Lincoln

21st June 2011, 05:21 PM	#13
Bruce Hopf Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: North of Sebringville, Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,167	Re: Saw maintenance About two, three times a year (depends on how much fire wood I cut), I pull the bar cover, bar, clutch hub, clutch, cover for the brake spring, top cover, air filter cover, air filter, fuel tank assembly, starter assembly, and take everything, out to my work shop, and use the engine wash blow gun, with siphon hose, to put into a var sol jug, and blow, and wash the gunk off of everything, with that, then just an air gun, to blow everything dry, from all the covers, and the engine components. As I assemble the clutch, and the clutch hub. I use white grease, for the needle bearing, for the clutch hub, and assemble everything back together. I take the bar, to the table sander, with a drum, and a disc, and take the burs, from the edges of the guide bar, and square the bar up again, so that both edges, are even, top, and bottom. I then use a table parts washer, and tub, to clean the grooves, of the bar, and flush out the roller nose, for the bar. I then grease the roller nose, bar, and install it with a sharp chain, and that chain saw, is ready to go. I check, and clean the spark plug, if too fouled, I change it with a new plug, and with the parts washer, on the work bench, I flush out the air filter, and set to dry. Once dry, I install the air filter, and the air filter cover. Bruce. __________________ McCulloch chain saws 1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's, 2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener, 1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver 2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10 Stihl chain saws 2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084, Strunk chain saws 1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

22nd June 2011, 10:40 AM	#14
John Vander Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: May 2011 Location: Oita Prefecture, Japan Posts: 135	Re: Saw maintenance When putting a new chain on your saw, run the saw at a low speed for a minute or so, as to allow the new chain to "set". The chain's rivets, cutters and tie-straps need to get used to the tension while running on the bar. Don't tension up the chain like a bow string. New tension on the chain is also introduced when the chain makes it's first cut. Wade into it, and don't just suddenly plunge the saw into a trunk with the same girth as your beer-belly. Make a few simple cuts at first. Considering the price and maintenance of chains, it's worth making a good start. __________________ "What kills a skunk is the publicity it gives itself." Abraham Lincoln

9th August 2011, 07:51 AM	#15
NHlocal Sappling Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: New Hampshire, USA Posts: 41	Re: Saw maintenance Hello, I have been reading this thread on saw maintenance, a lot of great information. I do have a question for everyone who reads this post. What works the best for cleaning up the outside (covers/tank/handle) of the saw? Things like pitch, tree sap, oil stains etc. I would like to keep them looking as good as they are running. Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thank you and work safe. NHlocal.

9th August 2011, 01:09 PM	#16
NHlocal Sappling Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: New Hampshire, USA Posts: 41	Re: Saw maintenance Hello, I've got another question I wanted to throw in, sorry goin' off subject, before I forget again. On a freshly rebuilt saw what is the best/recommended way to "break it in"? All my saws were well "broken in" by the time I got them. Again, I appreciate any and all input. Thanks again, work safe. NHlocal.

11th August 2011, 08:02 AM	#18
NHlocal Sappling Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: New Hampshire, USA Posts: 41	Re: Saw maintenance Hello rogue60, Thanks for the input, I've heard basically the same suggestion from a few others. I'll go with that,thanks again, work safe. NHlocal

15th August 2011, 08:01 AM	#19
NHlocal Sappling Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: New Hampshire, USA Posts: 41	Re: Saw maintenance Hello, I'm still trying to get a little help getting the outside of my saws clean(pitch,tree sap,oil,grime). Any and all suggestions and/or recommendations will be greatly appreciated. Many thanks. Work safe. NHlocal

7th September 2011, 02:52 PM	#20
John Vander Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: May 2011 Location: Oita Prefecture, Japan Posts: 135	Re: Saw maintenance by the way i only use genuine stihl parts..i dont know how that aftermarket stuff goes you can buy on ebay...[/QUOTE] Good point! Stick to genuine parts only. They might be a bit more pricey, but in the long run it's better than screwing up your entire saw ! Don't buy cheap fuel mixes either. Stihl fuel mix has done wonders for my machines. (Not only chainsaws but other equipment too.) __________________ "What kills a skunk is the publicity it gives itself." Abraham Lincoln

20th September 2011, 11:19 AM	#21
NHlocal Sappling Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: New Hampshire, USA Posts: 41	Re: Saw maintenance Hello, Thanks for the good advice on using genuine Stihl replacement parts and Stihl fuel mix. I'm still looking for a "good" (easy) way to get pine pitch off my equipment, can any one help me out with that??? I welcome any and all suggestions. Work safe! NHlocal.

21st September 2011, 10:32 AM	#22
John Vander Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: May 2011 Location: Oita Prefecture, Japan Posts: 135	Re: Saw maintenance I've used kerosene until now, and I've had no problem. The kerosene dissolves the pitch pretty o.k. __________________ "What kills a skunk is the publicity it gives itself." Abraham Lincoln

21st September 2011, 07:33 PM	#23
NHlocal Sappling Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: New Hampshire, USA Posts: 41	Re: Saw maintenance Hello, Thanks for the tip, I'll give it try and let you know how it works out. Work safe. NHlocal

6th October 2011, 04:53 PM	#24
Sam Beazley Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Bulli N.S.W Posts: 105	Re: Saw maintenance Because most my work is removing palm trees i strip the saws down and clean them everyday.sharpen the chains and spray the bar chain and clutch with WD40 to keep it free of rust.if not working on palms ill clean my saw out every friday and keep enough sharp chainsaws for each saw to last me till friday.

6th October 2011, 07:32 PM	#25
MrDiesel Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: here Posts: 192	Re: Saw maintenance During the rain days I like to put out the oil worm gear and inspect/replace it. They are a cheap item to replace but seem to cause problems when you least want them.

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