Ripping chain grind angles

jimmy34

Gday all.
Having purchased a new 576AT with 20' and 24" bars and 5 x 24" chains, I intend doing a bit of ripping in due course, with a chainsaw mill. Can anybody advise how I go about grinding a normal chain (Carlton 84DL 3/8 .058) and making it into a ripping chain? I have a Millers Falls electric chainsaw sharpener - is it just about setting a particular angle to grind? Also, are the rakers filed normally or do you go lower on those? Also, is there a particular way of breaking in a new chainsaw, can I just pick a log and start going at it full-on? Thanks from James.

Branching Out TreeCare

Hi James, I use 404 skip tooth milling chain and have the top plate angle set to ten degrees for ripping. I use a husqy 3120 that has been further
"worked-up" for milling. I use a 48 inch bar with a replacable tip for slabs . The short bars (eg 28in) are amazing for beams but tip replacement is often sooner usually because of increased pressure and speed.
I borrow a mates alaskan Mk3. ....awesome I reackon.
As far as running a saw in .....cane it for a few hours and then get your first bench service.....then you're away ....just keep the screws tight and the maintainance up often.
most new saws are the same with minor teething probs within the first 10 hours or so but usually just check the screws for tightness and "Bobs your uncle"...
Just a wee tip about oil residue though....if you mill in one spot for ages watch out for chain bar lube contaminating your immediate environment .
I have learnt that oil contaminants do little for the health of the plants and trees in close proximity of the mill site.They will suffer the ill effects of poor health and retardation and on the downward side ( catchment) from where the water will run when it rains.
Even better catch the dust on a drop sheet if and dispose of off site.
Also keep well away from constantly inhaling the oil mist that comes off the bar. The MK3 has a winding handle remote to drag the saw along away from you so is quite good for not being in the " bad-air"
hope this helps you a bit. Be safe and have fun. All the best.....from Paulo.

Branching Out TreeCare

Try just setting the top plate angle to 10 degrees and I wouldnt take the rakers any more than normal ...obviously the easier the wood the more you can take them down but only to a point and only if you keep your edge really sharp.
I usually hand sharpen with a file ...I think the total length of cutting edge is slightly longer because of a rounder gullet.

jimmy34

Thanks very much for your replies mate. very helpful. Will post some pictures of the ripping process when we get round to it. Think I will set aside a weekend soon to experiment.

Brent Ferris

I agree with BranchingOut's comments -- you want the skip chain to remove the sawdust -- and there is lots of sawdust; you want to check that the chain is getting oil, because in hard wood there are more fines, and the oiler gets plugged sooner burning out your chain sooner; a tarp to catch all the sawdust and oil drips is a really good idea; the fumes from the saw can overpower you and nearby plants; the rakers should not be taken down more than normal because the saw bucks too much and you want as smooth a cut as possible; finally initial setup takes the longest -- take your time, get it as level as you can, because the first cut determines how all the rest the lumber turns out. And, cut the lumber as close as possible to the final size, allowing for minimal planing/sanding, because if it is dried right there is minimal surface checking, and finding equipment to slice the plank into thiner slices later is really difficult. I hope you also appreciate that lumber air dries about 1 inch thickness per year -- so a 4 inch thick piece takes 4 years.

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