pretty stump cut......

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I have a difficult time making a nearly ground level stump cut that's attractive when the bar is shorter than the radius of the stump.

Keeping the cut on the same plane throughout the entire circumference is something I have not been able to do........close but no cigar yet.

I was hoping there was a trick or good method in accomplishing this.

I getting tired of spilling my drinks on the kitchen table

Garry Brockley

use your thumb on the trigger instead of your finger, useing your finger pulls the tip downwards, make sure your bar is dressed right and the cutters are all equal then you shouldn't have any problems.

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By dressed you mean good and sharp.....yes?
I use a 046 with 25" bar.

I'll try what you suggested next time and let you know if it did the trick. Wow thanks for the tip.

Galbee

Garry Brockley

no worries we like to help here, its the little tips that make our life easier. if we cant learn from each other without ridicule then theres no point in having a forum.

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No doubt.

TrevMcRev

A dressed bar is straight, square, free of burrs or uneven wear.
If you are not already doing regular bar maintenance then it could be the cause of your cutting challenge.

The chain is a seperate matter. Also needing even cutters & rakers.

Bruce Hopf

I have posted a couple of pictures for you, on how I check to make sure my bar rails are square.
I place a square across the bar, to determine if the bar rails are equal in height, on both sides of the bar. I check both top and bottom. If one rail is higher than the other, you can use a file to bring them down even.
I prefer using my disc sander, that I also have provided a picture of, to give you a better idea.
Hope this helps a little. Bruce.

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__________________
McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

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Thanks Trev, I bought this 046 used in good condition a few months ago. However when I was learning to sharpen the chain I mistakenly filed about 3 rakers in sequence. substantially to far when I misunderstood the instuctions.
It was taking to long much to long.....is what made me question what I was doing....

So I finished it up doing it correctly, and could not really tell any difference in the chain performance afterwards. As far as the bar goes.... straight,square.......Not certain how to check for that. It may cut just ever so slighlty out of square if thats what you mean. Perhaps the chain was in need of sharpening when I bought it.
It's a 25" rollermatic bar. I flip the bar frequently and file the bar edge if it becomes sharp. I went ahead this evening and put a new chain on the bar and will soon find out if the chain has been the problem all along. It cuts good but has never really seemed smooth mainly with the bar angled upward it bounces a tad, same after I sharpened the chain to. Since then I seem to have the sharpening down pretty good my 2 other saws cut excellent. I feel pretty confident this new chain will do the trick.....we'll see

If the new chain doesn't make a big difference I'll go ahead and get a new bar ....prolly a 36". Any suggestions on a top notch bar and chain and where to get it....good pricing etc..., O46 is mainly used for felling and bucking out the big stuff, and some very minor ripping.

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You guys are answering questions before I have a chance to ask them.
you guys work like a well oiled machine..
Thanks so much for the pics Bruce.....I understand now

stirmantrees

thanks galbee

Bruce Hopf

This is how my Dad taught me. You look down the length of the bar, as if you were looking down the barrel of a gun. Hold the bar up towards a light bulb (not to close to the light bulb, a few feet away).
Place the square across the rails of the bar, starting closest to you, and slide the square down the length on the bar, and if you see light comeing from under the square, on one side of the other, that will be your lowest rail, of the bar.
You then will have to file down the side where there is no light showing under the square, that will be your highest rail of the bar. Once you see no light comeing from under the bar, your rails of the bar, are squared properly.
Hope this helps you a bit, and gives you a better idea, of what to look for. Bruce.

__________________
McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

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Bruce I'm crystal clear thanks to you and others. Great effort pics and posting
No doubt I'm going to have and be able to maintain a great cutting saw now.

Eric Frei

Couple of other things to make life easy.

As you go around the stump use the kerf as a guide for the saw, I also find getting down on your knees and holding the saw properly helps, like not bending over like some lazy ass. This helps also line up the cut and wrap your right hand around the handle bar properly and left on the throttle. I like to bury that nose deep and cinch down on those "dawgs" till you cannot cut anymore with the brake lever hitting the stump. This way you have a deep kerf for the saw to follow next "bite" of the "dawgs".

As you go around the stump either wedge the kerf or usually I just shove in sticks so the weight of the piece doesn't sit on the saw.

And practice.

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Thanks Ekka, I'm hopping this bar and chain education will be the answer.
I've watched one of your videos of you making such a cut(not the focus of video though) can't see the subtlties but I do bore in the nose and do pretty much what you described.
The 046 bar or chain I pretty certain is where my problem lies. From the day I bought it used I was impressed with the brute power of the saw but i was suspicious of the bar or chain because it didn't cut as smoothe as my husky 51 or 192t.

This topic may make a nice instructional video for noobs like me.
My favorate video makers are you, Reg Coates, and Ace treemaster.

Bruce Hopf

Something else to consider. Lay the bar flat,on top of a table, press down on the end of the bar, nearest to the point where the bar mounts on to the chain saw, close to the edge of it. This will also determine if the bar is twisted slightly, if the bar tilts one way or the other. If there isn't any tilt when doing this, flip the bar over, and re do this step. Remember to press down on both edges of the bar, on both sides. Bruce.

__________________
McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

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Thanks again Bruce, I appreciate your attention to every detail. It shows your a true professional and dedication to your skill. I know how important the subtlties are and the effort it takes to explain such things.
Thankyou, Sir. most appreciated. If you ever need help with a Trim carpentry or pc problem/ project I will be glad to share my expertise or help if I can with you or any member. Unfortunately I have little to give back in the tree service industry at this time other than gratitude since this is all fairly new to me. Your effort is noted and I'm proud to know you.

Bruce Hopf

Glad to be of help. I just cut fire wood for myself, take out the odd tree in my bush, for lumber, but when I was a lot younger, in my teens, early twenties, I did custom fire wood cutting for a few farmers, in my area.
Mainly just tree felling out in open fields, or in the bush, and cut up. I did climb once to cut a few tree limbs off a tree, around a round farm machinery shed, so I could fell it along the side of the building, without doing any damage to the building. Other than that, that is about it.
I'll let you know if I ever need any help with trim work. Thanks for the offer.
Don't sell yourself short, because you never know what you have to offer in this business, until you try. Don't hesitate to ask questions. There is a lot of members, that will guide you along. Have fun here, because I sure do. Bruce.

__________________
McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

banner

Update.........seems there was a problem with the chain from the day I bought it used. Put a brand new one on made a noticable difference. Checked the bar to, was fine. Thanks for all the advice!

Therrin

I dont suppose anyone is this perfectionist, but my dad was reading over my shoulder for a few minutes while I was browsing on here.

His solution (cuz he's anal about stuff) was, "glue one of those small plastic bubble levels to your saw. Not the whole thing, just the tube with the bubble. Glue it so that it's level on whichever plane you're looking to use, and eyeball it while you're cutting."

O.o

MCW

Your dad had the same idea as me. All good for practicing with saw not running but useless in the field. I did this to my Dolmar 7900 (and tried 2 types of bubbles) and the second you hit any throttle you end up with 40,000 little bubbles. May work if fixed to the handle or a part of the saw that isn't directly attached to the non dampened motor, but I found practice is the best thing as Ekka mentioned.

Therrin

Ahh, hadnt realized that problem.

Maybe jimmy up a shock-mount for it. Maybe more trouble than its worth. i dunno. If you could rig it up so it worked right it'd be pretty spiffy.

MCW

I am doing a job at the moment with well over 10,000 trees to drop ranging from 10-46" odd. My biggest problem early was dropping my bar tip on the backcut. I thought I was an absolute genius when I thought of a spirit level bubble and my epoxy job was first class My first attempt was silicone so it was somewhat protectd as it was a glass bubble (I broke it wqithin 30 minutes but it still didn't work before that). My second plastic bubble is still on one of my 7900's and I have used it for practicing but unfortunately didn't work as planned
I've got my eye in now and after around 3000 trees only get things out of whack when I'm not concentrating.
You cn see the bubble just below the Dolmar sticker...

Garry Brockley

cool you missed a couple though

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MCW

Yeah you're right I left a few of the leaning bifurcated trunked Casuarinas in spots but intend to get back and tidy them up later. These are windbreaks that are part of a 2000 acre corporate citrus/winegrape property that they want dropped. All ground work which suits me fine
I'll leave the tree climbing and harnesses to the experts.

Eric Frei

Crikey!

What a job, imagine having to stump grind them all, BORING!

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MCW

All I'm paid to do is drop them
They'll be stump ground with a Caterpillar

MCW

Another way of keeping your cut level where the tree is larger than the bar is keep the tip in the cut and walk to the other side finishing the cut with the back of the bar. As mentioned it keeps the bar on the same plane. Have attached video using this technique on the backcut of a large(ish) Casuarina I dropped Sunday - note irrigation valving on left that wasn't damaged despite some smaller limbs covering it (I puckered up for a second! )...

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dude......you'll be like a feller wizard, by the time you get all those trees down.

MCW

Just need the long grey beard, the magic wand, and the pointy hat

You certainly get your eye in fast.

Martin

I work as a full time production faller here in BC so normally we're just putting stump in but I also climb (industrial - single stem and windfirming, and residential) ps I love this site. But alot of our wood is 4 ft plus and with a 36" bar we are regularly cutting over our bar size. The biggest is your filing or grinding, and next is definetely bar rails. All the guys recommendations were good in my eyes. There are alot of good products out there to dress your bars yourself (power or handtools). Also, if your filing properly you shouldn't need to dress a ton and you could just bring it in to your local saw shop for a 5-10 dollar dress job. Also, keep in mind your sprocket and clutch drum, bearings etc. They aren't going to directly affect your cuts but if worn out will run down your bar rails via the drivers of your chain. In terms of the cutting downa stump I have found that if you start your cut and cut as much as you can while pivoting on the dogs. Then restart your cuts on the back of the stump from both sides attempting to match them up. This will hopefully decrease the error that you are increasing as you cut your way aroung the stump. I got a few shots here of a 5 and 6 ft douglas fir. You'll notice on the stump shot that I had to cut the heart out from the under cut to get it all cut up properly. Technically I suppose I should have pulled out the 42

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