pretty stump cut......

banner · 13th October 2009, 07:02 AM

Much appreciated, and welcome to TW Martin. Yup, having a long enough bar sure takes the guess work out of the equation.

Hows this rookie style......take a 1/4" string/rope, encircle the trunk with it keep it level. Now take a cheap can of spray paint and quickly spray the rope around the trunk. pull the rope off and botabing there's your line...lol.

just don't let anyone see you doing it.....Where's Uncle chop chop

Eric Frei · 13th October 2009, 07:43 AM

Some big wood there Martin inj your parts, your cuts look pretty darn nice.

I had the drum on the ms460 split and take out the oil pump and brake band, now I change it more often.

Therrin · 13th October 2009, 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by banner

Hows this rookie style......take a 1/4" string/rope, encircle the trunk with it keep it level. Now take a cheap can of spray paint and quickly spray the rope around the trunk. pull the rope off and botabing there's your line...lol.

just don't let anyone see you doing it.....Where's Uncle chop chop

1st I wanna say... oh gawd.

2nd, how do you know the string/rope is level all the way around? Sounds like WAY too much work. Just learn to cut level.
(I know you, you're the guy who cant wear spurs for more than 30 mins cuz it hurts, arent you?)

banner · 13th October 2009, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Therrin

1st I wanna say... oh gawd.

2nd, how do you know the string/rope is level all the way around? Sounds like WAY too much work. Just learn to cut level.
(I know you, you're the guy who cant wear spurs for more than 30 mins cuz it hurts, arent you?)

It was a joke.....but I confess I thought of doing it ......and then thought no that would be to easy......I wanna be a real man....lol.
But then I tried wearing spikes and kept snagging my panty hose

The string would be easy to level....lol
Seriously though.... I never allowed the pain to become a major factor. It was more to the tune of a fear and agravation factor, the shanks just moved to much to feel confident. If something doesn't work or feel right I'm not one to force the issue. My ankles were never an issue the top of the shank was though digging into my upper legg causing my knees to kind of lock up when resting and having my full weight and legs straight resting in them, was weird, hoping when I get the caddies that will stop.

Bruce Hopf · 13th October 2009, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MCW

I am doing a job at the moment with well over 10,000 trees to drop ranging from 10-46" odd. My biggest problem early was dropping my bar tip on the backcut. I thought I was an absolute genius when I thought of a spirit level bubble and my epoxy job was first class

My first attempt was silicone so it was somewhat protectd as it was a glass bubble (I broke it wqithin 30 minutes but it still didn't work before that). My second plastic bubble is still on one of my 7900's and I have used it for practicing but unfortunately didn't work as planned

I've got my eye in now and after around 3000 trees only get things out of whack when I'm not concentrating.
You cn see the bubble just below the Dolmar sticker...

With the chain saw idling, how does it effect the bubble? Is it one bubble, or is it a bunch of bubbles, that you are trying to work with? Good idea. Bruce.

kiwi_tree_steve · 13th October 2009, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by banner

It was a joke.....but I confess I thought of doing it ......and then thought no that would be to easy......I wanna be a real man....lol.
But then I tried wearing spikes and kept snagging my panty hose

The string would be easy to level....lol
Seriously though.... I never allowed the pain to become a major factor. It was more to the tune of a fear and agravation factor, the shanks just moved to much to feel confident. If something doesn't work or feel right I'm not one to force the issue. My ankles were never an issue the top of the shank was though digging into my upper legg causing my knees to kind of lock up when resting and having my full weight and legs straight resting in them, was weird, hoping when I get the caddies that will stop.

your spurs are to long, adjust them mate, shuld be easy, and take away that pain

MCW · 13th October 2009, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruce Hopf

With the chain saw idling, how does it effect the bubble? Is it one bubble, or is it a bunch of bubbles, that you are trying to work with? Good idea. Bruce.

Hi Bruce.
Yeah the magical "Spirit Level" bubble was going to be a hit! Unfortunately even at idle it was barely readable but the second you give the saw any throttle you've got 4,000 useless bubbles that stay like that until you turn the saw off. I tried a couple of different bubbles too. The first one broke (it was glass that I mounted in silicone - broke it in the first 30 minutes), and the second one was my best epoxy job ever.
Good for practicing with the saw off but to be honest, experience is the only thing that teaches you the proper techniques to keep your saw level. Pointers from experienced people always helps, but experience locks it in your brain!
I have a problem with dropping the bar tip if not concentrating, when you also drop the tip on the backcut the angles can be shocking, if not potentially dangerous/damaging in some/many felling situations. Perfectly parallel cuts is what everyone should aim for. I get quite angry with myself when I get the angles wrong, particularly when actually concentrating on larger trees.
Matt.

banner · 14th October 2009, 12:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kiwi_tree_steve

your spurs are to long, adjust them mate, shuld be easy, and take away that pain

Already tried that Steve. Unfortunately the shanks moved even more. The problem is solved once I get the caddies. Thanks

Ok this magic bubble thing. I have a drill with a level built in it. Same thing happens, running at full rpm. What you do is start and stop frequently to stay on target. Or when cutting a tree you could make a series of light cuts to create like a hyphonated line around the tree before you do the serious cutting.
Actually the string idea might be easier and quicker IMO, especially if you had a lot of trees. 2 guys could do the marking it in a jiff. It's just a lame idea.....real men would not do this......would they?....lol

Therrin · 15th October 2009, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Actually the string idea might be easier and quicker IMO, especially if you had a lot of trees. 2 guys could do the marking it in a jiff. It's just a lame idea.....real men would not do this......would they?....lol

no, they would not do that.

banner · 16th October 2009, 12:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Therrin

no, they would not do that.

You sound convinced Therrin. I'm curious, why? Have you tried it?
I know it sounds kinda dumb but I have to tell you I've had my share of surprizes in my trade.....lol. It might just work well in a production scenario, not sure but I've never tried it either.

I'd like to hear your reasoning though.

BTW.....a congats is in order on becomming an uncle, and also an appreciation of the risk your father takes everyday. Thanks

Therrin · 17th October 2009, 02:02 AM

I've never seen anyone do it, or heard of it for that matter, because I think most blokes realize that it's not known as any good way of learning how to cut straight. You make a cut, see how things go, and then learn to adjust. How to hold the saw the way that works for you, how to eyeball it, how the cut FEELS, when its over and the thing came down, you look at the stump and think about it, feel it maybe, read how things happened.

Using a string and some spray paint just seems like using too much time staving off the inevitable of learning it the way you need to.

When you started driving, did you set up two strings along a length of road, and then try to drive inbetween them to make sure you werent swerving into the other lane, or did you learn the way everyone else does....and occasionally maybe you went over the lines a couple times, but now for the most part, you dont even think about it?

You can go so far as to coddle yourself and it doesnt help your learning curve at all.

(and thank you for those other mentions)

banner · 17th October 2009, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Therrin

I've never seen anyone do it, or heard of it for that matter, because I think most blokes realize that it's not known as any good way of learning how to cut straight. You make a cut, see how things go, and then learn to adjust. How to hold the saw the way that works for you, how to eyeball it, how the cut FEELS, when its over and the thing came down, you look at the stump and think about it, feel it maybe, read how things happened.

Using a string and some spray paint just seems like using too much time staving off the inevitable of learning it the way you need to.

When you started driving, did you set up two strings along a length of road, and then try to drive inbetween them to make sure you werent swerving into the other lane, or did you learn the way everyone else does....and occasionally maybe you went over the lines a couple times, but now for the most part, you dont even think about it?

You can go so far as to coddle yourself and it doesnt help your learning curve at all.

(and thank you for those other mentions)

I have to laugh at your analogy.....sorry.....lol.
There were already lines on the road, didn't need to paint my own lines....I can see how much thought you put into that one.....smile. Must of had a rough day...you did....lol. Well no one seems interested anyway so thata be all I say about it.

Martin · 26th October 2009, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ekka

Some big wood there Martin inj your parts, your cuts look pretty darn nice.

I had the drum on the ms460 split and take out the oil pump and brake band, now I change it more often.

That sucks, all it take in those oilers is a little hole from a broken clutch spring or a groove(thats gone through) from a worn out drum to screw them up. Hey, it seems that I retired from a thread six months ago and now when I join one I don't get notified. How can I fix that? Thanks for the help.

Bruce Hopf · 26th October 2009, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Martin

That sucks, all it take in those oilers is a little hole from a broken clutch spring or a groove(thats gone through) from a worn out drum to screw them up. Hey, it seems that I retired from a thread six months ago and now when I join one I don't get notified. How can I fix that? Thanks for the help.

If you are talking about being notified on your email site, like MSN, or something like that, you will have to go into your setting on this web site (Tree World), you will see something about notification, click on that, and that will open up your notification, and when you open your MSN account, you will see, that there is a response to, what ever, click onto the link, and it will bring you right to the last message posted. I hope this helps. Bruce.

Martin · 27th October 2009, 12:15 PM

Thanks Bruce

Bruce Hopf · 27th October 2009, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Martin

Thanks Bruce

Not a problem. Just trying to help. Bruce.

spartek · 27th October 2009, 01:48 PM

I sweep the entire bar through as far as I can, and then pull out and set back up on the left side of your first cut. If you leave three small edges around the circumference of the stump uncut (spaced roughly 60 degrees apart) and about a 1/2'' deep, they act as "wedges". I make three sweeps with the bar around large stumps, and they ALWAYS end up on the EXACT same plane. Looks as though there was only one pass. Afterwards take the bars nose , and bump the "natural wedges" apart with a downward cut and the whole round drops onto the stump.Toss a chain around the bitch and slide it off

13th October 2009, 07:02 AM	#31
banner Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Kentucky....oh yeah baby Posts: 135	Re: pretty stump cut...... Much appreciated, and welcome to TW Martin. Yup, having a long enough bar sure takes the guess work out of the equation. Hows this rookie style......take a 1/4" string/rope, encircle the trunk with it keep it level. Now take a cheap can of spray paint and quickly spray the rope around the trunk. pull the rope off and botabing there's your line...lol. just don't let anyone see you doing it.....Where's Uncle chop chop Last edited by banner; 13th October 2009 at 07:41 AM.

13th October 2009, 07:43 AM	#32
Eric Frei Admin - Razor sharp and independent 2 X Diploma Level 5 qualified arborist Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane Posts: 12,820	Re: pretty stump cut...... Some big wood there Martin inj your parts, your cuts look pretty darn nice. I had the drum on the ms460 split and take out the oil pump and brake band, now I change it more often. __________________ Protect your rights to work - Join Australian Tree Association My businesses:- Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping \| Stump Grinding Brisbane \| Brisbane - Gold Coast Consulting Arborist

17th October 2009, 02:02 AM	#41
Therrin Former Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca Posts: 2,512	Re: pretty stump cut...... I've never seen anyone do it, or heard of it for that matter, because I think most blokes realize that it's not known as any good way of learning how to cut straight. You make a cut, see how things go, and then learn to adjust. How to hold the saw the way that works for you, how to eyeball it, how the cut FEELS, when its over and the thing came down, you look at the stump and think about it, feel it maybe, read how things happened. Using a string and some spray paint just seems like using too much time staving off the inevitable of learning it the way you need to. When you started driving, did you set up two strings along a length of road, and then try to drive inbetween them to make sure you werent swerving into the other lane, or did you learn the way everyone else does....and occasionally maybe you went over the lines a couple times, but now for the most part, you dont even think about it? You can go so far as to coddle yourself and it doesnt help your learning curve at all. (and thank you for those other mentions)

27th October 2009, 12:15 PM	#45
Martin Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Duncan, BC, Canada Posts: 56	Re: pretty stump cut...... Thanks Bruce

27th October 2009, 01:48 PM	#47
spartek Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: ohio, USA Posts: 151	Re: pretty stump cut...... I sweep the entire bar through as far as I can, and then pull out and set back up on the left side of your first cut. If you leave three small edges around the circumference of the stump uncut (spaced roughly 60 degrees apart) and about a 1/2'' deep, they act as "wedges". I make three sweeps with the bar around large stumps, and they ALWAYS end up on the EXACT same plane. Looks as though there was only one pass. Afterwards take the bars nose , and bump the "natural wedges" apart with a downward cut and the whole round drops onto the stump.Toss a chain around the bitch and slide it off

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