Piston / Cylinder Rebuild

Therrin · 29th April 2009, 02:58 PM

Who out there has done P&C rebuilds on their saws?

Anyone actually done one on a 361?

I noticed that Bailey's mentions that soon they'll have a "Big bore P&C kit" for the 361 that's got a moly coated piston on it.

Opinions on this? Apparently they've been out for the 441, 460, 660, etc for a while.

Any reason I couldnt put a normal, but used, P&C on my existing 361 as long as the used one doesnt have anything wrong with it?

All of the parts people suggest using a piston ring clamp that they sell in a set in order to put the piston and rings back into the cylinder.....anyone used this kit? How does it work?

Thanks =)

Therrin · 29th April 2009, 03:42 PM

Second question,

Can I put a MS360 piston and cylinder on an MS361?

Jeff Darby · 29th April 2009, 07:22 PM

measure the piston diameter, and the depth of the skirt, and as long as it compares to the 360 pistons specs I cant see why no not.

With used one as long as it has a resonable life left in it, go for it, but install new rings and lightly scuff the bore to help the rings seating.

I'm running a second hand jug on my 066 with a new piston and rings for over two years now and it still goes hard.

Allways when interchanging parts make sure to compare the parts you intend to use with original ones.

Therrin · 30th April 2009, 10:59 AM

Okay, so I stripped the saw down, bagging and labelling groups of parts as I went.

Got down to the block, unbolted the cylinder. The cylinder really doesnt look bad inside. Just a little scuffing, it could probably be buffed out.

The piston looks pretty scored though.

Anyone think that I could just get the cylinder buffed, and try to put a new piston in it?

Secondly, how do you remove the hollow pin which secures the piston to the rod? It looks like there's some little circular spring pieces which hold that pin in, and there's a groove to pop them out, but I dont have anything that small.

Also,..... damn. I think I should've loosened the clutch or flywheel BEFORE taking the cylinder off. Is there a way to get them loosened up so I can take them off with the cylinder already off?
I tried jamming the flywheel and wrenching off the clutch nut thing, but all I succeeded in doing was busting a fin off of the flywheel.

Is that going to cause an imbalanced spin?

newguy18 · 30th April 2009, 01:08 PM

Lean siezure for sure.Lock the flywheel down,then use a hammer and punch to remove the clutch,smacking the shoe surface,take care when doing that or you could crack the shoes.I use a small screwdriver or knife to remove the c-clips from the wrist pin,also its a good idea to replace the wrist pin bearing.Yes the cylinder can be honed,if yuo don't think you can do it,take it to a machine shop.The fins in the flywheel mainlt circulate air around the cylinder fins to keep them cool,but they also circulate air to the air filter,i wouldn't worry about it that much,but thats just me.

Therrin · 30th April 2009, 03:29 PM

So which side do I remove to get at the camkshaft? The flywheel side or the clutch side? I want to check the bearing in there.

Also, what am I looking for to tell the condition of the cam and the other stuff in there?

How do I lock the flywheel? I'm almost tempted to put the cylinder back on and put a cylinder stop in there.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ok so i got those little round clips out, pushed the hollow pin out and pulled the piston off. I just need to get a piston kit w/ new rings. The old ones broke as I pulled them off. They're really fragile.
Then I'll have the cylinder buffed out, and the new rings should re-seat on the cylinder walls right?

Bruce Hopf · 30th April 2009, 09:49 PM

Ken.
As far as I know, that if the mounting holes for the cylinder for the 360, and the 361 are the same, you can use a cylinder from a 360, but you might have to also change the connecting rod, and the piston, if they are not the same length. You will have to get the measurements of both to see if there is any difference in the length.
What are the main bearings like? if there feels a little drag, you might want to change them also, when you have the saw tore down this far, instead of wishing that you would have done that later on.
You might be able to get away with just having your cylinder honed, and putting in a new piston and rings.
I don't think it matters which side that you take out your C clips for the wrist pin, to remove the piston. Bruce.

Therrin · 1st May 2009, 07:17 AM

treejames64 · 1st May 2009, 09:03 AM

I know nothing of saw repair but had a question for you. It seems that you edit all the pictures so they pop up open. What's the majic trick in doing that? It's amazing.

Therrin · 1st May 2009, 09:06 AM

The Ninja Monkey has spent many long years in training, learning to be one with his HTML skills, and honing a fine zen of keyboard and mouse. Such secrets may only be passed on by the sharing of ergot, from rye.

Jeff Darby · 1st May 2009, 10:54 AM

ahh the journey to enlightenment may be a long journey indeed, OR you could just read this..lol..

How to post| add a picture or file| embed picture

Jeff Darby · 1st May 2009, 11:45 AM

Ken,
The pictures in post#8 of the cylinder if those scuff marks have gone deeper than the chromium plating the clinder is NO good, make sure it is good before you re assemble it.

I can not tell by the pictures alone, use good judgment.

aphid · 1st May 2009, 11:51 AM

i think the clutch has reverse threads that are quickly removed with a 3/8 impact gun

olyman · 1st May 2009, 12:54 PM

therrin, by the pics you posted, both the piston, and the cyl, look like they are trashed.... id just get a new piston and cyl--or look on ebay for a used p&c, and put new rings in it..

&

newguy18 · 1st May 2009, 01:18 PM

The cylinder is in bad shape,you might be able to hone it,but its doubtful.

Therrin · 1st May 2009, 10:00 PM

I came 'round to the same conclusion you folks just led me to after talking to my saw shop guy. Thank you for all the input.

He also mentioned the hardened coating and why you can't hone as much as I'd need to with that cylinder.

It's toast, the piston is toast...

I've already had one negative input about aftermarket P&C's, does anyone else concur with that, or has anyone else actually tried them and had any success?

Anyone know if a 360 cylinder will bolt onto a 361 body?

newguy18 · 2nd May 2009, 02:07 PM

i wouldn't go there,the 360 is a pofs,i had nothing but issues with mine,slow to rev,cut out when dogging up and in felling cuts.

Therrin · 2nd May 2009, 03:08 PM

When have you ever had an MS360???

You've always hated stihls Bill.

And I'm not asking about the 360 as a saw, just its piston&cylinder mounted in my 361 saw.

newguy18 · 2nd May 2009, 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Therrin

When have you ever had an MS360???

You've always hated stihls Bill.

And I'm not asking about the 360 as a saw, just its piston&cylinder mounted in my 361 saw.

i had bought one,brand new,almost 4 years ago,used it maybe 6 times and gave it away.Just go stock,the 361 is better than the 360 ever hoped to be,just keep it stock,except for opening up the muffler.

Therrin · 2nd May 2009, 04:53 PM

Yeah that's great Bill. The POINT was that a 360 top end is *affordable*.

You wanna buy me the OEM replacement parts for the 361? Go for it

I've never met someone who reacts like you do to equipment you don't like. You BUY something and dont like it (and you havent RUINED it from pushing it harder than it was meant to be pushed) try SELLING it to recoop some of your investment. Geez.

Jeff Darby · 2nd May 2009, 05:59 PM

Hey Ken,
What about an aftermarket jug and piston new. You should be able to get a set real cheap in the states, plot where the decomp valve goes as I dont think they have one, drill and tap a thread srew in the decomp valve and away you go???

maybe a cheaper way to go than OEM?

newguy18 · 2nd May 2009, 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Therrin

Yeah that's great Bill. The POINT was that a 360 top end is *affordable*.

You wanna buy me the OEM replacement parts for the 361? Go for it

I've never met someone who reacts like you do to equipment you don't like. You BUY something and dont like it (and you havent RUINED it from pushing it harder than it was meant to be pushed) try SELLING it to recoop some of your investment. Geez.

Sell it?i gave it away,however my boss wants to buy the 192t off me for cutting around wire and cutting down debris in the dump trailer.Theres an old saying "do it right the first time."

Therrin · 3rd May 2009, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JayD

Hey Ken,
What about an aftermarket jug and piston new. You should be able to get a set real cheap in the states, plot where the decomp valve goes as I dont think they have one, drill and tap a thread srew in the decomp valve and away you go???

maybe a cheaper way to go than OEM?

Actually they've got aftermarket brand new cylinders that *have* the decomp valve spot on them.

Someone already mentioned that aftermarket parts were crap, do you have any reason to think that they wouldnt be JayD?

Here's a picture of an aftermarket kit for a 361. The whole package is only $120.

Jeff Darby · 3rd May 2009, 10:39 AM

I'm running an aftermarket piston in a second hand jug, It's going fine after two years, I'm just saying if money is a big factor it may be the way to go.

Aftermarket mmm, some will be good and some no doubt will be bad, do your homework before you commit.

Therrin · 3rd May 2009, 10:47 AM

Okay....so who made YOUR aftermarket stuff then?

(I'm doing my homework)

Jeff Darby · 3rd May 2009, 11:11 AM

I purchased mine from the states, at the time they did not have the decomp valve, things get better as time rolls by, from a second hand dealer, bailey's on AS. Will have to dig through the garage to find out what brand it was leave to me.

We are going to buy John a new car at the moment will try and post again later on today.

Willard Holmen · 3rd May 2009, 01:31 PM

I see your still on your 361 rebuild Ken. My tree work season is now in full gear and don't have alot of spare time now especially with my young family and all.
I have tried some of Bailey's aftermarket P/C kits ,top handles various other parts over the years and I have found they don't stand up at all like the OEM parts. I put a aftermarket bigbore kit on my 044 and wasn't long the rings seized in the grooves and clipped the bottom of the exhaust port destroying the upper crown of the piston. `From inferior machine sizing this is one example of what goes wrong.
Aftermarket top handles ,junk bend like a pretzl another example.
I say support the factories and their dealers and saw development will always evolve and we will always have a superior product for the working man who relys on them.

Jeff Darby · 3rd May 2009, 06:30 PM

Point taken, Holmentree, but we all know that OEM is the best you can get, unless they are using superior billetts and tooling in the after market product.

you get what you pay for it.

Like you, we can only state our experience with products on the market.

Willard Holmen · 4th May 2009, 02:14 AM

Thanks for your points JayD. Everyone here has to understand most of these aftermarket parts are coming out of China and India and their quality control just doesn't cut it most times.
Maybe todays auto makers troubles can be an example. Way to much contracting out parts making.
An interesting point, way back in the day when the Dodge brothers loaned Henry Ford money to start up his plant and made parts for Ford. When Ford got on his feet he disbanded from Dodge and went on his own, Ford today is probably in the best shape of the 3 big auto makers in North America.
I hope chain saw manufacturers can do the same.

Therrin · 4th May 2009, 12:22 PM

which chainsaw makers are american?

And, the reason we outsource parts is because it's cheaper to have them made over there. Its a basic cost/benefit ratio analysis.

If people didnt BUY the stuff then it wouldnt be worth it, but they do, so it is. lol.

I got a year and a half out of my stihl piston/cylinder. If I can get at least that much out of an aftermarket for half the price, I could go for twice as long as what it'd cost me to get the OEM stuff.

If only the scale were actually linear. *sigh*

29th April 2009, 02:58 PM	#1
Therrin Former Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca Posts: 2,497	Piston / Cylinder Rebuild Who out there has done P&C rebuilds on their saws? Anyone actually done one on a 361? I noticed that Bailey's mentions that soon they'll have a "Big bore P&C kit" for the 361 that's got a moly coated piston on it. Opinions on this? Apparently they've been out for the 441, 460, 660, etc for a while. Any reason I couldnt put a normal, but used, P&C on my existing 361 as long as the used one doesnt have anything wrong with it? All of the parts people suggest using a piston ring clamp that they sell in a set in order to put the piston and rings back into the cylinder.....anyone used this kit? How does it work? Thanks =)

29th April 2009, 03:42 PM	#2
Therrin Former Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca Posts: 2,497	Re: Piston / Cylinder Rebuild Second question, Can I put a MS360 piston and cylinder on an MS361?

29th April 2009, 07:22 PM	#3
Jeff Darby Moderator - Previously known as JayD Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: TreeWorld, Sydney Australia Posts: 2,059	Re: Piston / Cylinder Rebuild measure the piston diameter, and the depth of the skirt, and as long as it compares to the 360 pistons specs I cant see why no not. With used one as long as it has a resonable life left in it, go for it, but install new rings and lightly scuff the bore to help the rings seating. I'm running a second hand jug on my 066 with a new piston and rings for over two years now and it still goes hard. Allways when interchanging parts make sure to compare the parts you intend to use with original ones. __________________ Member: Australian Tree Association Join the Australian Tree Association...Have your voice heard ! Arboriculture, A life long study for some, a passing phase for others © Jeffrey J Darby 2011

30th April 2009, 10:59 AM	#4
Therrin Former Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca Posts: 2,497	Re: Piston / Cylinder Rebuild Okay, so I stripped the saw down, bagging and labelling groups of parts as I went. Got down to the block, unbolted the cylinder. The cylinder really doesnt look bad inside. Just a little scuffing, it could probably be buffed out. The piston looks pretty scored though. Anyone think that I could just get the cylinder buffed, and try to put a new piston in it? Secondly, how do you remove the hollow pin which secures the piston to the rod? It looks like there's some little circular spring pieces which hold that pin in, and there's a groove to pop them out, but I dont have anything that small. Also,..... damn. I think I should've loosened the clutch or flywheel BEFORE taking the cylinder off. Is there a way to get them loosened up so I can take them off with the cylinder already off? I tried jamming the flywheel and wrenching off the clutch nut thing, but all I succeeded in doing was busting a fin off of the flywheel. Is that going to cause an imbalanced spin? Attached Thumbnails

30th April 2009, 01:08 PM	#5
newguy18 Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: orlando,fl Posts: 4,948	Re: Piston / Cylinder Rebuild Lean siezure for sure.Lock the flywheel down,then use a hammer and punch to remove the clutch,smacking the shoe surface,take care when doing that or you could crack the shoes.I use a small screwdriver or knife to remove the c-clips from the wrist pin,also its a good idea to replace the wrist pin bearing.Yes the cylinder can be honed,if yuo don't think you can do it,take it to a machine shop.The fins in the flywheel mainlt circulate air around the cylinder fins to keep them cool,but they also circulate air to the air filter,i wouldn't worry about it that much,but thats just me. __________________ Have your say join us today. old schooler

30th April 2009, 03:29 PM	#6
Therrin Former Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca Posts: 2,497	Re: Piston / Cylinder Rebuild So which side do I remove to get at the camkshaft? The flywheel side or the clutch side? I want to check the bearing in there. Also, what am I looking for to tell the condition of the cam and the other stuff in there? How do I lock the flywheel? I'm almost tempted to put the cylinder back on and put a cylinder stop in there. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ok so i got those little round clips out, pushed the hollow pin out and pulled the piston off. I just need to get a piston kit w/ new rings. The old ones broke as I pulled them off. They're really fragile. Then I'll have the cylinder buffed out, and the new rings should re-seat on the cylinder walls right? Last edited by Therrin; 30th April 2009 at 04:30 PM.

30th April 2009, 09:49 PM	#7
Bruce Hopf Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: North of Sebringville, Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,167	Re: Piston / Cylinder Rebuild Ken. As far as I know, that if the mounting holes for the cylinder for the 360, and the 361 are the same, you can use a cylinder from a 360, but you might have to also change the connecting rod, and the piston, if they are not the same length. You will have to get the measurements of both to see if there is any difference in the length. What are the main bearings like? if there feels a little drag, you might want to change them also, when you have the saw tore down this far, instead of wishing that you would have done that later on. You might be able to get away with just having your cylinder honed, and putting in a new piston and rings. I don't think it matters which side that you take out your C clips for the wrist pin, to remove the piston. Bruce. __________________ McCulloch chain saws 1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's, 2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener, 1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver 2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10 Stihl chain saws 2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084, Strunk chain saws 1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

1st May 2009, 07:17 AM	#8
Therrin Former Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca Posts: 2,497	Re: Piston / Cylinder Rebuild Attached Thumbnails

1st May 2009, 09:03 AM	#9
treejames64 Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Gainesville, fl Posts: 104	Re: Piston / Cylinder Rebuild I know nothing of saw repair but had a question for you. It seems that you edit all the pictures so they pop up open. What's the majic trick in doing that? It's amazing.

1st May 2009, 09:06 AM	#10
Therrin Former Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca Posts: 2,497	Re: Piston / Cylinder Rebuild The Ninja Monkey has spent many long years in training, learning to be one with his HTML skills, and honing a fine zen of keyboard and mouse. Such secrets may only be passed on by the sharing of ergot, from rye.

1st May 2009, 10:54 AM	#11
Jeff Darby Moderator - Previously known as JayD Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: TreeWorld, Sydney Australia Posts: 2,059	Re: Piston / Cylinder Rebuild ahh the journey to enlightenment may be a long journey indeed, OR you could just read this..lol.. How to post\| add a picture or file\| embed picture __________________ Member: Australian Tree Association Join the Australian Tree Association...Have your voice heard ! Arboriculture, A life long study for some, a passing phase for others © Jeffrey J Darby 2011

1st May 2009, 11:45 AM	#12
Jeff Darby Moderator - Previously known as JayD Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: TreeWorld, Sydney Australia Posts: 2,059	Re: Piston / Cylinder Rebuild Ken, The pictures in post#8 of the cylinder if those scuff marks have gone deeper than the chromium plating the clinder is NO good, make sure it is good before you re assemble it. I can not tell by the pictures alone, use good judgment. __________________ Member: Australian Tree Association Join the Australian Tree Association...Have your voice heard ! Arboriculture, A life long study for some, a passing phase for others © Jeffrey J Darby 2011

1st May 2009, 11:51 AM	#13
aphid Sappling Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: united states Posts: 46	Re: Piston / Cylinder Rebuild i think the clutch has reverse threads that are quickly removed with a 3/8 impact gun

1st May 2009, 12:54 PM	#14
olyman Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: iowa--usa Posts: 122	Re: Piston / Cylinder Rebuild therrin, by the pics you posted, both the piston, and the cyl, look like they are trashed.... id just get a new piston and cyl--or look on ebay for a used p&c, and put new rings in it.. &

1st May 2009, 01:18 PM	#15
newguy18 Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: orlando,fl Posts: 4,948	Re: Piston / Cylinder Rebuild The cylinder is in bad shape,you might be able to hone it,but its doubtful. __________________ Have your say join us today. old schooler

1st May 2009, 10:00 PM	#16
Therrin Former Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca Posts: 2,497	Re: Piston / Cylinder Rebuild I came 'round to the same conclusion you folks just led me to after talking to my saw shop guy. Thank you for all the input. He also mentioned the hardened coating and why you can't hone as much as I'd need to with that cylinder. It's toast, the piston is toast... I've already had one negative input about aftermarket P&C's, does anyone else concur with that, or has anyone else actually tried them and had any success? Anyone know if a 360 cylinder will bolt onto a 361 body?

2nd May 2009, 02:07 PM	#17
newguy18 Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: orlando,fl Posts: 4,948	Re: Piston / Cylinder Rebuild i wouldn't go there,the 360 is a pofs,i had nothing but issues with mine,slow to rev,cut out when dogging up and in felling cuts. __________________ Have your say join us today. old schooler

2nd May 2009, 03:08 PM	#18
Therrin Former Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca Posts: 2,497	Re: Piston / Cylinder Rebuild When have you ever had an MS360??? You've always hated stihls Bill. And I'm not asking about the 360 as a saw, just its piston&cylinder mounted in my 361 saw.

2nd May 2009, 04:53 PM	#20
Therrin Former Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca Posts: 2,497	Re: Piston / Cylinder Rebuild Yeah that's great Bill. The POINT was that a 360 top end is affordable. You wanna buy me the OEM replacement parts for the 361? Go for it I've never met someone who reacts like you do to equipment you don't like. You BUY something and dont like it (and you havent RUINED it from pushing it harder than it was meant to be pushed) try SELLING it to recoop some of your investment. Geez.

2nd May 2009, 05:59 PM	#21
Jeff Darby Moderator - Previously known as JayD Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: TreeWorld, Sydney Australia Posts: 2,059	Re: Piston / Cylinder Rebuild Hey Ken, What about an aftermarket jug and piston new. You should be able to get a set real cheap in the states, plot where the decomp valve goes as I dont think they have one, drill and tap a thread srew in the decomp valve and away you go??? maybe a cheaper way to go than OEM? __________________ Member: Australian Tree Association Join the Australian Tree Association...Have your voice heard ! Arboriculture, A life long study for some, a passing phase for others © Jeffrey J Darby 2011

3rd May 2009, 10:39 AM	#24
Jeff Darby Moderator - Previously known as JayD Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: TreeWorld, Sydney Australia Posts: 2,059	Re: Piston / Cylinder Rebuild I'm running an aftermarket piston in a second hand jug, It's going fine after two years, I'm just saying if money is a big factor it may be the way to go. Aftermarket mmm, some will be good and some no doubt will be bad, do your homework before you commit. __________________ Member: Australian Tree Association Join the Australian Tree Association...Have your voice heard ! Arboriculture, A life long study for some, a passing phase for others © Jeffrey J Darby 2011

3rd May 2009, 10:47 AM	#25
Therrin Former Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca Posts: 2,497	Re: Piston / Cylinder Rebuild Okay....so who made YOUR aftermarket stuff then? (I'm doing my homework)

3rd May 2009, 11:11 AM	#26
Jeff Darby Moderator - Previously known as JayD Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: TreeWorld, Sydney Australia Posts: 2,059	Re: Piston / Cylinder Rebuild I purchased mine from the states, at the time they did not have the decomp valve, things get better as time rolls by, from a second hand dealer, bailey's on AS. Will have to dig through the garage to find out what brand it was leave to me. We are going to buy John a new car at the moment will try and post again later on today. __________________ Member: Australian Tree Association Join the Australian Tree Association...Have your voice heard ! Arboriculture, A life long study for some, a passing phase for others © Jeffrey J Darby 2011

3rd May 2009, 01:31 PM	#27
Willard Holmen Over mature heritage tree Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Manitoba, Canada Posts: 650	Re: Piston / Cylinder Rebuild I see your still on your 361 rebuild Ken. My tree work season is now in full gear and don't have alot of spare time now especially with my young family and all. I have tried some of Bailey's aftermarket P/C kits ,top handles various other parts over the years and I have found they don't stand up at all like the OEM parts. I put a aftermarket bigbore kit on my 044 and wasn't long the rings seized in the grooves and clipped the bottom of the exhaust port destroying the upper crown of the piston. `From inferior machine sizing this is one example of what goes wrong. Aftermarket top handles ,junk bend like a pretzl another example. I say support the factories and their dealers and saw development will always evolve and we will always have a superior product for the working man who relys on them.

3rd May 2009, 06:30 PM	#28
Jeff Darby Moderator - Previously known as JayD Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: TreeWorld, Sydney Australia Posts: 2,059	Re: Piston / Cylinder Rebuild Point taken, Holmentree, but we all know that OEM is the best you can get, unless they are using superior billetts and tooling in the after market product. you get what you pay for it. Like you, we can only state our experience with products on the market. __________________ Member: Australian Tree Association Join the Australian Tree Association...Have your voice heard ! Arboriculture, A life long study for some, a passing phase for others © Jeffrey J Darby 2011

4th May 2009, 02:14 AM	#29
Willard Holmen Over mature heritage tree Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Manitoba, Canada Posts: 650	Re: Piston / Cylinder Rebuild Thanks for your points JayD. Everyone here has to understand most of these aftermarket parts are coming out of China and India and their quality control just doesn't cut it most times. Maybe todays auto makers troubles can be an example. Way to much contracting out parts making. An interesting point, way back in the day when the Dodge brothers loaned Henry Ford money to start up his plant and made parts for Ford. When Ford got on his feet he disbanded from Dodge and went on his own, Ford today is probably in the best shape of the 3 big auto makers in North America. I hope chain saw manufacturers can do the same.

4th May 2009, 12:22 PM	#30
Therrin Former Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca Posts: 2,497	Re: Piston / Cylinder Rebuild which chainsaw makers are american? And, the reason we outsource parts is because it's cheaper to have them made over there. Its a basic cost/benefit ratio analysis. If people didnt BUY the stuff then it wouldnt be worth it, but they do, so it is. lol. I got a year and a half out of my stihl piston/cylinder. If I can get at least that much out of an aftermarket for half the price, I could go for twice as long as what it'd cost me to get the OEM stuff. If only the scale were actually linear. sigh

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