PFERD Chain Sharp Any Good?

munderhill

I just ordered 2 of these in sizes 5/32 for my new 200T and a 3/16 for my 028. Anybody used one? I usually take my saw to my uncle to sharpen as he is an expert, but would like to be able to do myself in the event I hit the ground or hardware in a tree etc.
Are the stump vises any good either?
Thanks
MU

newguy18

pics please?i usually take mine to the stihl dealr as i usually don't have time.Any other time,i free hand,been doing it since i was 14.

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old schooler

Gunslinger

I've seen these stump vises in a catalog and wondered the same thing, are they any good? The concept seems Ok. Pound the vise into a log and it keeps the saw from flopping around. It probably works better than the tailgate of my pick-up.



I would likely buy one if they came highly recommended by an expert.

TrevMcRev

They're good. Just dont pound it into the tailgate of your pick up! Tree stumps only

munderhill

I had my first one sharpened at the dealer but was $10.50! I thought that was high.
I don't know how to attach an address. Google search pferd or husqvarna. The pferd is blue and the husky version (same) is orange, obviously. I did not recieve my 2 yet.
I will post pic's of them when i recieve.
On another note my 200t arrived at the dealer. I'll have it Sunday along with the helmet.

MU

newguy18

I get any length of chain sharpened for 5 bucks.

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old schooler

dannyboysfc

The pferd chain sharp works well, just be carefull with it as its made of plastic and there are little plastic thingys that hold the wire clips that hold the files in place, you'll know what I mean when you get yours. It'll take some practice, but you'll be able to put a great sharpen on your saw with these, they file the depth gauges at the same time too.

You guys who pay someone to sharpen your chains, even at 5$, are throwing away $$$, you can learn to do it just as good as the shop if not better. They usually take off to much and shorten the life of your chain!

Oh yeah the stump vise thingy works real good to.

newguy18

I can free hand pretty good,just usually don't have time.If i go to the dealer+5 minutes for the 192t or the 141 15 minutes for the 51.For 15 bucks my saws are razor sharp,go to the next job.When i have time i do it with the file to save my money but it takes about 20 minutes per saw.

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OutofMytree

Chain sharpening is a simple skill to learn. Chain guides, available from any saw distributer will show you the correct angle and control file depth. Always hold the saw bar rigid in a vice. I have one bolted to the mudguard of my chipper. I also have a woodsmans vice as per the picture shown previously. The most extreme chain nazi I know sharpens on EVERY refuel. I prefer every second refuel. Its a personal choice but ask any skilled saw handler. The 3-5 minutes spent sharpening a saw saves you 10 minutes on the ground and 20 minutes in the tree.

Gunslinger

At every second refuel how long does the chain last before you need to toss it?

OutofMytree

Good question. I am not interested enough to keep track of consumption of almost any consumable but I can offer some insights into metal fatigue that may help you out.

Constantly OVERSHARPENING will wear out chains quickly.

No matter when you sharpen your chain the very first thing you must do is inspect it visually and by touch. It is common that the outside of the chain wears more than the inside. (My PERSONAL definition of chain sides is the inside is the side closest to the pull start). The outside is the side closest to the ground when cutting so is more likely to hit the dirt or even the rock u didnt see when cleaning up.....

Once you have found the worst tooth, start sharpening there. Count your strokes. However many you use on the worst tooth, is the standard for the rest of your chain. By sharpening this way, the gap between raker and tooth remains similar on every tooth resulting in the most even "feel" to the chain possible.

By leaving the chain longer between sharpenings it is quite possible to "burn" the chain. This is metal fatigue, induced by the heat, generated by the increased friction experienced by a blunt chain. When this has occured you must apply many more strokes than normal to sharpen the chain which definately wears your chains out faster.

Frequent sharpening results in increased cutting speeds without risk. Any time saved without risk increases your profit per hour and should be pursued in any area of a business. The additional wear, if indeed there is any, induced by frequent sharpening is more than offset by increased profit gained this way.

On a side note, the chain nazi I mentioned actually keeps all his chains. He has compared his chain consumption with other arborists and claims to be well ahead.

TreeCo

Be careful with your 200T. My experience is that the Pferd guide takes the depth gages down a bit too far on the 200T chain and I get chain grab.

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Drouin Tree Service

Worked with a guy who liked to sharpen NEW chain but i guess running 488 shindiawas had to get every bit you could.

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OutofMytree

Nothing wrong with Shinadaiwa's! Nothing being dropped down a deep hole couldnt fix!

munderhill

I recieved a free sample 7/32 from PFERD this morning.
I pland to get a regular guide/file so as not to take down the raker every time I sharpen. My Dad said it's not a good idea to take the raker down every sharpen as said above.
On another not I picked up my new 200 this weekend. I'll start a thread with some pictures.

MU

OutofMytree

Your Dad is on the nail. I PERSONALLY file the rakers more by the "feel" of the saw than by any standard. The file guides we get here have a depth guide which you can use to get it spot on. Just remember that the depth guides only give you "their" opinion of the best depth for the best cut. You may prefer more depth for softwoods or less for hardwoods.

Sounds like your on the right track. I remember when an old saw hand showed me how to properly sharpen my chains. What a difference in the cut!

dannyboysfc

Not true, the Pferd chain sharp is designed to keep the rakers at the perfect depth. It will not file too much off of the raker unless you apply too much pressure, it is a precision tool and keeps everything precisely filed and sharpened with regular use.

munderhill

Well, all I can say is he's been sharpening and cutting alot longer than I ever will and gets good results.
I recieved my 5/32 and 3/16 sharps last night and read the instuctions and your correct, it does say the sharp takes care of both without oversharpening. Is the .035" from raker to tooth sound correct?
This is the distance the sharp maintains.

MU