muffler mod

Joshua Rugg · 18th February 2011, 09:02 PM

got an echo 330T and took out the spark screen and the catalytic plate under the mufflers exhaust deflector. i also pulled the carb limiter caps and tuned the L screw alot richer and the H screw so it four strokes at max throttle. anyone else do this to echo saws? when muffler modding i was told you have to tune richer in the low screw. am i right?

loggerBOB · 18th February 2011, 09:13 PM

check your piston for scoring now that you think you just made a 2 stroke convert to a four stroke

Eric Frei · 18th February 2011, 09:23 PM

I think he means it's running richer and "burbling" aka 4 stroking.

Joshua Rugg · 18th February 2011, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eric Frei

I think he means it's running richer and "burbling" aka 4 stroking.

yes, that's what i meant Eric.

loggerBoB,
it is impossible to make a 2 stroke engine run 4 stroke. you apparently have no idea what your saying.

stihl kickin · 19th February 2011, 02:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hard-as-Stihl

yes, that's what i meant Eric.

loggerBoB,
it is impossible to make a 2 stroke engine run 4 stroke. you apparently have no idea what your saying.

i only mess with the L screw for quick acceleration from idle and\or fine tuning idle speed. After the mod, i didn't adjust the L screw. just the H screw.

Eric Frei · 19th February 2011, 06:20 AM

Usually the H screw has to be adjusted I find, richer.

APSE · 19th February 2011, 06:31 AM

Any engine that you increase the amount of air that has the ability to escape automatically increases to a certain degree the amount of air it can take in. More air equals the need for more fuel/lubrication. You should adjust the saw according to how it runs now. Meaning both the L and H screws as well as the idle screw for the difference. If this is a new saw you should run it a little richer than normal throughout it's break-in period(3-4 tanks of fuel) then re-adjust. You should leave the spark arrestor screen in place, in order to prevent accidental fires, and don't max-out the saw at high RPM while adjusting. For best results we adjust saws while in the cut, BUT be very careful this is not something for the novice, requires cutting one-handed, one mistake and.....well it is a chainsaw, ya' know, they do bite!

Joshua Rugg · 19th February 2011, 07:09 AM

can someone walk me through adjusting the low screw?

superfire · 19th February 2011, 07:15 AM

Hardas Stihl check out you tube there are several guys that demonstrate this 4 stroke adjusment. I setup the saw to smokey levels and work that out a bit then tweak the high side. My 460 was done this way after putting a v stack on and opening the muffler. You fuel air mix a hair fat because of how lacking in quaility of modern fuels.

loggerBOB · 19th February 2011, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hard-as-Stihl

got an echo 330T and took out the spark screen and the catalytic plate under the mufflers exhaust deflector. i also pulled the carb limiter caps and tuned the L screw alot richer and the H screw so it four strokes at max throttle. anyone else do this to echo saws? when muffler modding i was told you have to tune richer in the low screw. am i right?

Sorry for misreading you explanation

Cut4fun · 19th February 2011, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hard-as-Stihl

can someone walk me through adjusting the low screw?

Simple as can be. Follow this link and with sound if you need it.

Saw Carb Tuning

Joshua Rugg · 20th February 2011, 02:01 PM

well heres what i did for the low screw adjustment.
when it was at the stock setting it wasn't as snappy and it took longer to reach the max high RPMs. i tuned it richer then the factory setting and then the saws idle slowed down so i turned the idle up and repeated this process until the throttle was not slow to build up to the max rpms and became more responsive and snappy. when the low is set leaner the engine races and you have to back the idle speed down but in this setting it builds slowly to the max high RPMs and even dies when it's cold and you hit the throttle(this was the factory setting). the saw was modified by taking out the catalytic converter(little steel plate making the port hole smaller) and spark screen. i think i had to tune it a good one full turn richer and now it's much much more responsive and doesn't hesitate to reach max RPMs. i did notice that the saws exhaust area is a bit hotter then before. this normal after a muffler mod?

Knot Smart · 14th June 2011, 06:14 AM

No expert here, but that's pretty much the same low side scenario I went through while tuning a few old clunkers last week. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think we achieved the same result; smooth idle, snappy response and no stumble/bog anywhere in the transition from idle to max r's. Not too rich not too lean right? That said, me thinks it would be normal to see higher exhaust temps. After all, more fuel + more air = more power = more heat - right?

Knot Smart · 14th June 2011, 06:24 AM

Hhhmm, I can't seem to be able to edit my own post, do I need certain permissions for that? I forgot to ask if it's OK to partake in a little thread necromancy, it's a bad habit of mine on a new forum - sorry!! This stuff is just to interesting to ignore

APSE · 14th June 2011, 02:15 PM

Hard-as-Stihl,

I keep missing you, the time frame is so different! You are welcome to give us a call at the shop the number is 720-260-0157, tell Tina who you are and she will come to the shop and get me for a couple of minutes. More than happy to help ya with the mods and tuning as you asked.....It's a very busy time of year!
Thank You,
Brian and Tina

18th February 2011, 09:02 PM	#1
Joshua Rugg Mature tree Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: maui, hawaii Posts: 285	muffler mod got an echo 330T and took out the spark screen and the catalytic plate under the mufflers exhaust deflector. i also pulled the carb limiter caps and tuned the L screw alot richer and the H screw so it four strokes at max throttle. anyone else do this to echo saws? when muffler modding i was told you have to tune richer in the low screw. am i right?

18th February 2011, 09:13 PM	#2
loggerBOB Former Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Daylesford.Aus Posts: 38	Re: muffler mod check your piston for scoring now that you think you just made a 2 stroke convert to a four stroke

18th February 2011, 09:23 PM	#3
Eric Frei Admin - Owner Palm & Tree Services in Brisbane Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane Posts: 12,994	Re: muffler mod I think he means it's running richer and "burbling" aka 4 stroking. __________________ Protect your rights to work - Join Australian Tree Association My businesses:- Qualified Brisbane Palm and Tree Lopping \| Stump Grinding Brisbane \| Brisbane - Gold Coast Consulting Arborist

19th February 2011, 06:20 AM	#6
Eric Frei Admin - Owner Palm & Tree Services in Brisbane Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane Posts: 12,994	Re: muffler mod Usually the H screw has to be adjusted I find, richer. __________________ Protect your rights to work - Join Australian Tree Association My businesses:- Qualified Brisbane Palm and Tree Lopping \| Stump Grinding Brisbane \| Brisbane - Gold Coast Consulting Arborist

19th February 2011, 06:31 AM	#7
APSE Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Aspen Park,Colorado Posts: 76	Re: muffler mod Any engine that you increase the amount of air that has the ability to escape automatically increases to a certain degree the amount of air it can take in. More air equals the need for more fuel/lubrication. You should adjust the saw according to how it runs now. Meaning both the L and H screws as well as the idle screw for the difference. If this is a new saw you should run it a little richer than normal throughout it's break-in period(3-4 tanks of fuel) then re-adjust. You should leave the spark arrestor screen in place, in order to prevent accidental fires, and don't max-out the saw at high RPM while adjusting. For best results we adjust saws while in the cut, BUT be very careful this is not something for the novice, requires cutting one-handed, one mistake and.....well it is a chainsaw, ya' know, they do bite! __________________ Vintage Chainsaws, Parts, Restorations, Custom Work, Special Saws on Request and Much More. Please visit our webalbum: http://picasaweb.google.com/APSELLC or our website https://apse.mybigcommerce.com/ APSE-LLC Email:apse-llc@live.com Phone:720-260-0157 Business Hours: Tuesday Through Friday 9-6 Saturday 9-5 Rocky Mountain Time, USA If ya got sumthin' ya can't find we'd be glad to try and help ya! Brian and Tina :

19th February 2011, 07:09 AM	#8
Joshua Rugg Mature tree Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: maui, hawaii Posts: 285	Re: muffler mod can someone walk me through adjusting the low screw?

19th February 2011, 07:15 AM	#9
superfire Former Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Central Oregon Posts: 166	Re: muffler mod Hardas Stihl check out you tube there are several guys that demonstrate this 4 stroke adjusment. I setup the saw to smokey levels and work that out a bit then tweak the high side. My 460 was done this way after putting a v stack on and opening the muffler. You fuel air mix a hair fat because of how lacking in quaility of modern fuels.

20th February 2011, 02:01 PM	#12
Joshua Rugg Mature tree Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: maui, hawaii Posts: 285	Re: muffler mod well heres what i did for the low screw adjustment. when it was at the stock setting it wasn't as snappy and it took longer to reach the max high RPMs. i tuned it richer then the factory setting and then the saws idle slowed down so i turned the idle up and repeated this process until the throttle was not slow to build up to the max rpms and became more responsive and snappy. when the low is set leaner the engine races and you have to back the idle speed down but in this setting it builds slowly to the max high RPMs and even dies when it's cold and you hit the throttle(this was the factory setting). the saw was modified by taking out the catalytic converter(little steel plate making the port hole smaller) and spark screen. i think i had to tune it a good one full turn richer and now it's much much more responsive and doesn't hesitate to reach max RPMs. i did notice that the saws exhaust area is a bit hotter then before. this normal after a muffler mod?

14th June 2011, 06:14 AM	#13
Knot Smart Sappling Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Chicagoland, IL Posts: 15	Re: muffler mod No expert here, but that's pretty much the same low side scenario I went through while tuning a few old clunkers last week. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think we achieved the same result; smooth idle, snappy response and no stumble/bog anywhere in the transition from idle to max r's. Not too rich not too lean right? That said, me thinks it would be normal to see higher exhaust temps. After all, more fuel + more air = more power = more heat - right?

14th June 2011, 06:24 AM	#14
Knot Smart Sappling Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Chicagoland, IL Posts: 15	Re: muffler mod Hhhmm, I can't seem to be able to edit my own post, do I need certain permissions for that? I forgot to ask if it's OK to partake in a little thread necromancy, it's a bad habit of mine on a new forum - sorry!! This stuff is just to interesting to ignore

14th June 2011, 02:15 PM	#15
APSE Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Aspen Park,Colorado Posts: 76	Re: muffler mod Hard-as-Stihl, I keep missing you, the time frame is so different! You are welcome to give us a call at the shop the number is 720-260-0157, tell Tina who you are and she will come to the shop and get me for a couple of minutes. More than happy to help ya with the mods and tuning as you asked.....It's a very busy time of year! Thank You, Brian and Tina __________________ Vintage Chainsaws, Parts, Restorations, Custom Work, Special Saws on Request and Much More. Please visit our webalbum: http://picasaweb.google.com/APSELLC or our website https://apse.mybigcommerce.com/ APSE-LLC Email:apse-llc@live.com Phone:720-260-0157 Business Hours: Tuesday Through Friday 9-6 Saturday 9-5 Rocky Mountain Time, USA If ya got sumthin' ya can't find we'd be glad to try and help ya! Brian and Tina :

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