MS200 and 192T bogging down on throttle

MrDiesel

Gday,
Im wondering if any one has some tuning tips for a ms200 and 192's. I have a 575Xp, 441 and 660 running sweet as, however i cant get the knack of tuning the climbing saws.

The drama i get is that both units start within 2 or 3 pulls but i have to let them idle for about 2 minutes before they have any pick up. If i give them some mumbo prior to that they sound like they are flooding and then stall. They then normally start straight away i.e. one or two pulls. Once they are warm they still bog down a little before they reach full revs but no longer stall. When they are full revs they are fine, heaps of torque etc and luvin iron bark and yellowbox.

The fuel is normally no more than 3-4 days old and mixed with genuine husky oil (50:1)

Sorry, i forgot to mention that the 200 is 18 month old and the 192 is new.

Thanks

OutofMytree

Calling Bill...come in Bill.

Can't help you Mr D but there is someone lurking out in Florida who knows....

MrDiesel

Sorry, I forgot one major item, Both saws hunt at idle i.e. they revs creep up enough to spin the sproket maybee once every 5 seconds.

Its goto be my tuning teqniques but i cant see where i bugger it up as the other saws are running sweet as

Eric Frei

Sounds to me they got air leaks, you need to have them pressure tested.

Could be crank case seals, carb/boot seal????

When that crap happens go to the dealer or some-one who can pressure test them, if they have an air leak you'll never tune it, and as they warm up it changes a lot too.

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Jeff Darby

With your 200T check your breather pipe from the tank is not blocked some how, and you might have to replace your diathram they can go hard and cause this type of symptom.
Hope this helps
JayD

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MrDiesel

Thanks Ekka, You got the 200 nailed. It was a perished boot which goes from the carbie to the cylinder (Its about 1 inch diameter). When i pulled it out the whole thing was buggered at the cylinder end where its held down by the square plastic plate. It looks like the genius who worked on it managed to fold the lip of the rubber and tightened it up anyway. I also found the fuel line was beginning to go as well. I guess i got what i paid for from Ebay. When i out some amalgamating tape around it she ran rich but when tuned started to really sing. Ill be ordering a new boot and fuel line as soon as the shops re-open.

The 192 gets a strip down tomorrow to see if i can see what the go is

Thanks heaps

newguy18

Check the air boots,if not then the diapraghm in the carb is shot.

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Jason Axe

i also have a 192 t and it does the exact same thing and mine is also new mabey have used it ten hours. if that not sure wats going on with it its the only stihl saw i own that im not happy with hope fully its a simple fix let me know it you find and thing out about yours thanks!

MrDiesel

Gday Axe, good and bad news. I rebuilt the saw twice and stihl didnt get the problem sorted. I spent the best part of 10 hours straight (and a half case of VB) on it. I took it to a dealership with a tacho and they tuned it to the Stihls spec. At stihl specs it ran really well.

I have now put about 20-25 tanks through it and have been giving it a real hard time on Ironbarks. Curiosity got the better of me today so i deliberatly de-tuned it and tried to retune. It retuned no problems!! No bogging down what so ever. Thus after many beers i have concluded that for every new saw i get ill get a tacho put on it until i run it in!

Jason Axe

thanks! ill get mine tuned and hope fully that my problem too

thank Jason

TreeDimensional

Have you checked the screen in the muffler? These tiny saws don't get run enough to reach warm temperatures, and often run rich.

I have 2 200T's the older one was 3/4 plugged and the new one was 40% plugged.

newguy18

i used my 192t to cut a 30" limb,i was also doing my best to kill the damn thing,if it breaks again,i'm pitching it.

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MrDiesel

my 192 with be right behind yours ng. I got it tuned and thought it was not too bad but the plastic body cant cop the punishment which a 200T can. If only i had read up on a forum before i got into this game

Bruce Hopf

Some times it Pays to do some Research on something before you buy. But you also can get a Dud in what ever a Person does Buy. Bruce.

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McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

walkerized

Hello Mr.Diesal. well everyone has some good answers. I work on the 200t saws every day. The most problems i have with them are carb boots ,pulse lines come off thats the hose under the air box some crank seals on old ones plugged carbs or fuel filters. But lately the newest saws have a excalorater pump built into the carb alot of people dont know this. What happens to them is they will not respond off idle. From stihl the new carb are expensive. I fit those troubled saws with old style carb its a zama part#c1q s16a it costs less and makes the new style saw run great. anyways good luck any questions send me a question

Therrin

What does that have to do with anything NG? Those saws arent made to cut 30" limbs. Even with a 16" bar which is the max you should ever put on them, you should be using a bigger saw.

Just cuz you're determined to break your saw using it for dumb stuff doesnt mean they arent good saws. If I did my best to kill most of my equipment then it would DIE...but I dont, because I care about my equipment.
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For the rest of you, I've been having alot of the SAME problems with my 200T. I'll have to strip it when I get home and check the carby boot. This one is an older model 200T I beleive, so it shouldnt have that newfangled carb excelerator thing. I'll have to check the breather line too. I just replaced the fuel line maybe 7 months ago.
It creeps while idling, and like you said it'll start, then be going fine and then just die and then I cant get it started. I'll take it to the shop, and they'll tune it, and it'll be fine for a while, then it'll go out, and I'll tune it, and it'll be fine for a while, and then it'll just become all FUBAR. I can't even get mine to start right now.

newguy18

Did i say it was a bad saw?no,i tried to kill it because of a deal i made with the local saw shop when i bought it.The only beef i have with it so far is the chain tensioner broke,already on my second bar[stihl bars are junk imo] and its only a few months old,hardly ever leaves the ground,if i was climbing with it,those things wouldn't bother me.

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Bruce Hopf

Ive just looked in my Stihl Carburetor Book, in the Trouble Shooting Section of the Book. I'll do my Best to get the Information to you guys as best as I can.


Condition = Carburetor floods; engine Stalls.

Cause = Inlet needle not sealing. Foreign matter in valve seat, or cone damaged.
Remedy = Remove and clean or replace inlet needle, clean fuel tank, pickup body and fuel line if necessary.

Cause = Inlet control lever sticking on spindle.
Remedy = Free off inlet control lever.

Cause = Helical spring not located on nipple of the inlet control lever.
Remedy = Remove inlet control lever and refit correctly.

Cause = Perforated disc on diaphragm is deformed and presses constantly against inlet control lever.
Remedy = Fit new metering diaphragm.

Cause = Inlet control lever too high (relative to design position)
Remedy = Set inlet control lever flush with top of body or bottom of metering chamber.

_________________________________________________________________

Condition = Poor acceleration.

Cause = Idle jet "too lean"
Remedy = Back off low speed screw slightly.

Cause = Main jet "too lean"
Remedy = Back off high speed screw lightly.

Cause = Inlet control lever too low (relative to design position).
Remedy = Set inlet control lever flush with top of body or bottom of the metering chamber.

Cause = Inlet needle sticking to valve seat.
Remedy = Remove inlet needle, clean and refit.

Cause = Connecting bore to atmosphere blocked.
Remedy = Clean Bore.

Cause = Diaphragm Gasket leaking.
Remedy = Fit new Diaphragm Gasket.

Cause = Metering diaphragm damaged or shrunk.
Remedy = Fit new diaphragm.
_________________________________________________________________

Hope this helps you guys with your troubles. . Bruce.

__________________
McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

Therrin

Hey thanks... I was gonna say that I never got a manual for my 200T then in the wee back of my mind somewhere I remembered that when I shipped a new one out to Aus, the owner let me keep the manual. I should start looking that stuff up. I've gotta totally strip it down when i get back home.


NG, I've NEVER broken a Stihl bar. What are you DOING to that poor saw? It's not a prybar ya know. You just sound like a messy operator.

newguy18

Its not me,its the sandy conditions in my area,you'd be amazed at the amount of sand that ends up in bark and in crotches of trees.Its a nightmare on bar tips and chains.

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Therrin

Yer tellin me! I live in a desert with normal high winds!!! It's not uncommon for me to borrow the H.O.'s garden hose and wash stuff off before cutting into it now.

xylem09

MS200 is overrated. Give it to someone you don't like..

Buy a Husky. Then get back to work.

geoff

[QUOTE=MrDiesel;49974] i have 2 ms200t's , both had same problem you describe. its a known carb problem on them here in u.k. cost me £ 20/ saw at dealers to fix, hope this helps.

Bruce Hopf

With Sandy Conditions that some of you cut in, It wouldn't matter what type of Grease, or Bar Oil you have, once that Sand gets in the Sprocket, good bye Bearings. Hopefully there will be something out there, that will Combat this problem, for you guys, and gals. Bruce.

__________________
McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

newguy18

I like the bars that don't have a sprocket tip,which is what i have on the 192t right now,i have a bar with replaceable tips for the 51 which is pretty good.

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old schooler