MS192 and chain sizes

MrDiesel

G'Day all, Just wondering if anyone has tried a larger chain on a MS192. I was wondering if the bar and chain from a MS200 will fit on. Seems to be the same size sprocket and teeth. I was also wondering what the knock on affects of this would be ie will the slower chain speed of the 192 combined with a 3/8 chain wear out the engine too fast?

Im only just getting into the game and cant afford the 200 but there is an oportunity for a near new ms192 for $350 (AUS).

rbtree

Sure. both work. The PMN .043 is optimal for the 192T, but a funky chain.....small cutters, doesn't back chain as well.

I'm currently out of it...so am running standard chain and a 16 inch bar on one of mine. It is muffler modded, though, so has a lot more power than a gutless stocker. Still prefer a 14 inch bar on the saws...and either chain.

A side benny of the thinner bar is its reduced weight. Besides price, the main reason for having a 192 is the light weight. So, saving a few ounces by going with the .043 makes sense.

I might look into the reduced weight bars, to see if they're worth the much higher cost. i think they are only made in .50 gauge.

newguy18

hey rb,when yuo modded the muffler,did you pull the baffle as well?How about the spark screen?I'm thinking of modding mine,if it means more power i'm all for it.

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rbtree

Way more power......

I don't think there's a baffle inside the muffler...if there was, you'd have to split it open to get it cut out.

I grind out the port to full size, toss or keep the screen (I lost it when the first deflector was lost) and grind back the deflector as much as possible to still somewhat deflect the gases downward. Better would be to weld on a pipe to deflect gases better, and not melt the plastic of the bar cover.

I need to mod the deflector for another screw or something or tack weld it on. I've now lost two, as the single screw vibrates loose.

My other 192 has been woods ported..and is a bit faster still...but clamshell engine designs (the Husky climb saws are also this design) don't lend themselves to effective modding.)

Bruce Hopf

Here is a website that you can look at to determine which Bar will fit your Chain Saw. Oregon Cutting Systems, world leader in chainsaw chain, guide bars, and sprockets .
I took my Muffler apart, for my 024, and I removed the front part of the Baffle, with a 1/4" Drill Bit. I just kept drilling the Holes close to one another, until I got the Front Part of the Baffle removed. I still have to weld a piece of metal with my Mig Welder, to cover up the Hole in the Face Plate of the Muffler, and drill a 5/16" hole in each corner of the Face Plate, and also have to open up the Carburetor a bit, to be careful not to lean out the Chain Saw to much, and it too will increase Power, and Speed of the Chain Saw. Bruce.

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Therrin

Try an 050 bar, lightweight. And 3/8 PM chain. =) I've got 12, 14 and 16" bars and I've found that the 14 is the one I end up using the most.

Lightweight bars totally rock, they give a much nicer feel to the overall balance of the saw in your hand. They use a polymer insert down the length of the blade which makes it weigh about a third to almost half less than the original bar.

I've had alot of luck with 3/8 Picco Micro chain.

Bruce Hopf

OK, here is something New to me. What is Picco Chain? I've never heard of it before. Thanks. Bruce.

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McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

Therrin

Picco micro? It's stihl-brand 3/8 mini-chain



Except I dont think that's the same as what I use... my saw shop guy said that it's still the picco size, but it's closer to RM style chain. Apparently I use a picco size that isnt low kickback.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Bruce Hopf

Is it something like a Low Profile Chain then, or am I on the wrong Track here? Thanks. Bruce.

__________________
McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

Therrin

I really dont know...maybe Ekka can add something here.

rbtree

Picco is simply Stihl's term for low profile chain for climb saws. It is 3/8th pitch, technically .370, compared to normal .375 chain. The cutter is smaller. It's available in both pro, and reduced kickback versions. The PMN chain is .043 gauge, has an even smaller cutter, and different depth gauge, and is only available as reduced kickback. The bar that it requires is quite light. I'm pretty sure the reduced weight bar, with plastic inserts is for PM chain, which is .050. It is quite a bit more $ than the normal bars.

I have a PMN setup, it is fine....but doesn't back chain or bore cut all that well. And, since I buy the normal .050 chain by the 100 ft roll, will prolly not be using any more PMN when my current bar wears out. However, i see that the above pictured chain is improved over what I had, and is supposed to bore cut better. I also have a new loop of Oregon .043 gauge chain, which should work fine, considering how its cutter looks.

It is a nice setup with the 192T, as both the saw, and b/c are so light.

As I've stated before, I really like the 192T, so much so that I now have 3 of 'em, but only after the muffler has been opened way up. It then cuts a lot faster.

If anyone wants to see a video comparing a few climb saws, go to my youtube page...same user name.

Bruce Hopf

Thanks for the Help, and Information. I've done my Job, and Learned Something New. Thanks Guys. Bruce.

__________________
McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

MrDiesel

I tried Therrins trick of a 14" lightweight bar, it sure does rock hard. The next step is to mod the muffler. I just need a little bit of play time

newguy18

Ys,picco is 3/8 lo profile chain,stihl just calls it picco.Low kickback chain and bars with small tips suck.

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Therrin

Oh you like that huh?
One con I'll mention: Try not to overheat the bar. Keep the chain nice and sharp. If the bar gets too HOT, the polymer inserts can start to splay out like flashings on the side of the bar. The leading edge of the chain will start the cut and then the plastic flashings will catch on the kerf and you'll be sitting there going WTF??

I realized that happened when I was running it with an overly dull chain. I had to take my handheld sharpening grinder and grind the pieces of plastic flashing off the sides and smooth it down again. I still use that same bar though.

I'd never say not to buy it because of that, that was more user error than anything. The balance sure is SWEET though. And the price really wasnt that bad. I think the normal bar was $25 bucks or something and the lighter bar was maybe $35. I dont remember exactly but it isnt much.

MrDiesel

Yeah, i tend to be pretty slow anyways, being new to the game, so i dont tend to over heat anything. Over the last two months i have started to get a bit faster so ill keep an eye out fofor over heating. Generally im pretty good with keeping a sharp blade. I have always try to have three spare chains and tend to dress them each night ready for the next days work

Sam Beazley

Hey does anyone know if they still make the Stihl Ms190t top handle chainsaw anymore? if so were about in the illawarra can i get one from and how much would they cost? Sam.

Eric Frei

Stihl MS192T is still avail as far as I know, contact nearest Stihl dealer.

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Sam Beazley

thanks Ekka ill call my local dealer 2morrow

keepcutting

want to modify the 192 exhauast thought i might try to make a expainsion chamber inside the can rather than just drilling it out any thoughts

Therrin

You might ask ScotWOJO about that.

And I noticed someone mentioned that the PM chain doesnt bore cut well...??

I was boring into a black locust with it and it seemed to work just fine. It actually bored in and cut better than starting flush against the trunk I thought. That wood is pretty hard too. I was suprised.

I just re-cleaned all my bars... (all 20 of them...ugh) and came across my 16" bar. Realized I used it for a bit but never really even wore it in. I just prefer the 14" so much more. If I thought I really needed the 16" for something, I'd jump up to my 028 w/18" bar.

On that black locust I was using my 12" bar though. It works just fine. Affords a little more power to the chain (??) than the 14" maybe. I like having my assortment of 3/8"PM bars/chains. They fit both my 200T and my 011, so I can swap them all around. A 192T would be the same with those.

I checked, and I've got (2) 12" bars, (2) 14" normal bars, (1) 14" lightweight, and (1) 16" bar.
Only other thing I could think of is that since the smaller chains tend to make smaller sawdust, I've had a few probs with the oil-feed hole on the bars getting crudded up. But the small, flathead screwdriver that comes with the saws to adjust the carby settings works really good for clearing the oil-feed hole and the chain-guide grooves on those bars.

Bruce Hopf

Hey Ken.
Those little screwdrivers work OK, for cleaning out the grooves of the bar, but a broken hacksaw blade works even better. Just have the teeth of the blade pointed down, so that they hook the sawdust out of the groove. Bruce.

__________________
McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

Therrin

A portable air compressor works better than all of the above... but the only I have is in the garage. =(

I like using that to clean all my equipment. Moreso than solvents and brushes and such.