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| | #1 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Florida
Posts: 78
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Slotted nut that holds the top (cylinder) plastic cover on was stripped and ceased onto the stud. I Broke the cylinder cooling fins (top two) trying to remove it and the whole thing came off in one piece. No damage to Cylinder wall but now the stud is stuck in the fins with whole thing still in the plastic cover. How do I remove the stud? I want to JB weld the fins back on so I can secure the cover with the new stud and nut. Also, can the decompression valve be rebuilt or best to order new and replace it? I know that simple but can you rebuild one? Thanks, Mike |
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| | #2 |
| Former Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: midwest
Posts: 589
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When a decomp starts leaking, best to toss in the trash and buy and new one. $10-$22 depending on where you shop. |
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| | #3 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Florida
Posts: 78
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Thanks, I like to rebuild things when possible. I know replacement is around $20 but I like to see how things work. It looks like a simple unscrew and bolt in the new one. Is there any sequence that matters...like...make sure it's pushed in when bolting the new one in to keep from forcing chamber air against the new o-ring? Thanks Again for the reply, Mike |
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| | #4 |
| Former Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: midwest
Posts: 589
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There is mods you can do to improve decomps on high psi saws, but not needed on a stock saw. Just basic unscrew old one and screw new one in. Nothing more about it. |
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| | #5 |
| Former Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca
Posts: 2,512
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Last time I replaced the cover it didn't come with the replacement screw. I don't remember exactly what happened to the first one... But I did find that you can pick up a machine screw of the same type from the hardware store and use that instead. Use loctite to hold it in place and it works very well. Otherwise... I think I have an extra around here that I ordered and ended up not using. Lemme know if you can't get it fixed or the part replaced and I'll see if I can dig mine out and send it to you. |
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| | #6 |
| Former Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,211
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JB welding cooling fins? Damn... I though that using super glue to repair fins on my old 210 was insane (but it worked!). If I lost a decomp on one of my 361s I would just bolt it shut. I rarely use them on those saws any more, and never when they are cold. I cannot recommend a fix for the threaded stud for the cover. They are the same on the 260, but I have never snapped or stripped one.
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| | #7 |
| Former Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca
Posts: 2,512
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Ahhh, I had thought he meant the bolt that holds the top plastic cover in place... it bolts the cover through a rubber grommet to the head.
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| | #8 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Florida
Posts: 78
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Windthrown, thanks not sure how I'll fix the stud either. I've never seen one seize up like it did. Therrin, thanks for the offer, but I got a threaded nut to replace it. Will let you know how it comes out. |
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| | #9 |
| Sappling Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 28
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I am new to this site and recently picked up a nice used ms361. I too like to work on everything mechanical and just ordered a shop manual for the 361... figured it would help when needed. Just sharing... |
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| | #10 |
| Former Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,211
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No need for a hard copy of shop manuals with the web... we trade them online. Also the Partls List (called the PL), which is just as important (but a different file). 361 is a good saw, but harder to mod than previous models. They try to stop us from modifying them.
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| | #11 | |
| Former Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: midwest
Posts: 589
| Quote:
Maybe you are talking about the 362 strato. | |
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| | #12 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Florida
Posts: 78
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Are you talking about pdf shop manuals and drawings and parts lists??? If so, where can I find them? Would love to be able to print what I need instead of trying to see through the greasy, oily pages from last time I fixed something.
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| | #13 |
| Former Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,211
| The muffler on the 361 is harder to mod than the 360. The 361 has a one piece crimped muffler design made to thwart modification, and it is way more choked up than the 360. The 360 like the 260 is a simple quick mod to the muffler cover, which unbolts. The newer 362 is even harder still, with the strato charged engine.
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| | #14 |
| Former Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,211
| Yes. As soon as you have 10 posts on TW, PM me and I can get you copies of the 361 PDF manual and PL.
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| | #15 |
| Former Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: midwest
Posts: 589
| Windy have you figured out how to email bigger files over 25MB? Some of the service manuals I email out are over 25MB and wont go out for being over limit. Small ones under 25MB, no problem. I have never figured out how to break them apart to send as 2 separate files. So I end up burning a copy of the IPL's and Service manuals to send to the guys. |
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| | #16 |
| Former Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca
Posts: 2,512
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Cut4fun, you can use services online which allow you to upload the file to a main server, then you give the link to someone and they download it. Look up "transferring large files" or similar phrasing on Yahoo/google. |
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| | #17 |
| Former Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the Great Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,211
|
341/361 service manual that I have is only 3.9MB. You can also use PKZIP, jZIP or 7ZIP to compress files before sending. |
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| | #18 |
| Former Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Ca
Posts: 2,512
|
I've run into that problem because some of the manuals are pdf and *include* the "saftey" manual, and put the filesize up over the attatchment limit. At least with PDF files you could take only the content you want and create a new PDF out of them and make them quite a bit smaller. If WT has you taken care of on the service and IPL manuals for that, lemme know if you want the Stihl carb manual as well and I'll send it over. |
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| | #19 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Florida
Posts: 78
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Great. I'm new to this whole forum thing. Usually talk to people face to face. I'm pretty old school. My twelve year old knows more about computers than me. As soon as I have enough posts I'll PM both you and WT. Thanks.
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| | #20 | ||
| Sappling Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 28
| Quote:
Quote:
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| | #21 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Florida
Posts: 78
|
Well, JB Weld didn't work. Let it cure and cooling fins broke as soon as I put the nut back on. Going to try to mod by threading a stud into the lower fins and just use a longer one than stock that comes from top fin. I might try the super glue fix first. Will post pics to let you know how it works, so the other person in ten million who breaks one can fix it too.
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