ms 361 and 28" bar

toyguy · 23rd January 2011, 01:36 PM

My local dealer sold me a 28" bar and skip tooth chain and said i would have no trouble running this setup on my 361 that i just purchased new.the saw came with a 25 and had the 28 option.is there anyone that has had trouble with running this..

jamming · 23rd January 2011, 02:32 PM

Hey ! Also new here and first post ! LOL ! I think it all depends on if you cut hardwoods. I went back and forth on the 362 with a 28" bar. But i was told not to do it ! Not enough power and will cut slow. So i went with the 460 magnum. I think the 361 and 362 are close on power, and the stihl web site says 25" Max.

toyguy · 23rd January 2011, 02:50 PM

It is basicaly going to be cutting firs in the northwest.red fir white fir tamarack.just wanted something that i didnt have to bend over and limb with..it cut just fine with the 25 on it.. just wntd more.

superfire · 23rd January 2011, 04:11 PM

You will be fine with that setup. My dealer has the 362 with 28" and your what ever chain you want . The saw needs only one minor tweak from new ant that is to faten up the high side a wee bit, protecats the saw by being a wee rich. Once it is past warranty open the muffler up abit and enjoy.

nmurph · 25th January 2011, 01:10 AM

it SHOULD have enough power to pull a 28" with skip. however, you may find that the oiler can't keep up.

Cut4fun · 25th January 2011, 07:28 AM

I put a 32" on my stock muffler modded 361 once. Just because I wanted to see if

.

I tested it with square chisel , full skip in softwood only. Spruce. The bar oiler couldnt keep up with 32".

The 361 could make the cuts but would only want to have to do that in a emergency and no other bigger cc saws were available.

wrebelmachine · 28th January 2011, 11:27 AM

You should be fine I had to in a bind put a 28" on an old Sachs Dolmar 117 and was pleased with how it cut. That is a 30 year old school saw that pulled it very well. Your 361 should have no trouble at all if you let the saw do the work for you.

toyguy · 29th January 2011, 01:08 PM

after I ran the saw this past weekend I dont think that i will have any trouble with the way it is after the yr is up and no more stihl warrenty may be some mods done.dont know how much more it needs thought.any thoughts?

superfire · 30th January 2011, 01:28 PM

Start with 10% more muffler opening then put a big bore kit on it. Then get the west 3/4 wrap handle and dual dawgs

Woods Ported · 30th January 2011, 01:46 PM

It won't exactly be impressive to put a 28" bar on a stock 361. Port it out and then try it.

Cut4fun · 31st January 2011, 01:25 AM

Good place to save this info from past post. Hate when I lose a HD and lose the info.

Upgrade 361 oil pump with 460-R full wrap oil pump parts

Issues with low output from 361 oil pumps.

Replace the 361 oil pump with the 460-R full wrap high capacity oil pump assembly for about about $90. The Stihl part number is, 1128 640 3250 oil pump assembly

Can also keep the 361 oil pump and just replace the piston and control bolt with the 460-R parts. The Stihl part numbers for these are, 1128 647 0602 oil pump piston $30 1128 647 4803 oil pump control bolt $5

APSE · 1st February 2011, 12:52 PM

Gotta agree with woods ported and cut4fun.
That saw stock is going to not be real impressive on a bar that size without modifications, even at sea level, it will do it but it won't be the best in production. Also, Stihls have a tendency to not produce enough oil for bars that length. Cut4fun pointed out some good info for making that situation better, it will increase the life of the chain as well as the bar, and will obviously will cut better and be easier on the engine if it is oiling correctly. Footnote: We are at 8500 feet in altitude and some of the local pro's here use the 361 for limbing(we lose 35% horsepower due to oxygen deprivation) Consequently we all like larger saws, maybe get the whole 460 instead of just the oil pump.....Can't have too many saws ya know!

superfire · 1st February 2011, 02:15 PM

If you are like me I put vstacks on my saws.

gooddog · 1st February 2011, 02:39 PM

I just put those 460-R pump parts in my 460 saw. That will get me 7cc more volume on that saw. I'm thinking of putting the old 460 parts into my new 361 because that will get me 2cc more oil. I am only running a 20" bar but cut a lot of dry dead wood that needs more.

SawTroll · 2nd February 2011, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nmurph

it SHOULD have enough power to pull a 28" with skip. however, you may find that the oiler can't keep up.

Another issue is that even a 25" (24" really) totally destroys the nice handling qualities of the basic saw. 16-18" bars really fits it the best!

toyguy · 2nd February 2011, 03:22 PM

how does the 25" bar ruin the saw it ran great.i have had not trouble with it sank the bar in full no lack of power or oil. bar never got hot not really even warm after about an hour of running the saw.

APSE · 2nd February 2011, 04:53 PM

In my opinion,
In any hand held tool, it is the balance of the tool that allows it to do the work for you or causes you to have to work it. I spent over 30 years in body shops and as a mechanic, I am a rebuilder by trade. As such I can tell you in great detail the difference between a good hammer and a bad hammer, and it has to do with balance, a saw is very similar. If the tool is well balanced and well proportioned it will handle well and reduce fatigue, essentially improve the operators efficiency, and actually make the job easier by doing the work for you. If it is imbalanced and awkward, it increases fatigue, slowing the production aspect and with a saw, making it almost unsafe to operate for long periods of time because it does not function as it was designed. If a saw balances well with an 18" bar and can still run a 28" bar, that may be acceptable in a pinch or for show. But if you need to run that 28" bar all day long you will feel less fatigued and be more efficient by using a larger saw that balances well with the 28" bar. A simple solution....... Just buy more saws!!!! Truly if there was one saw that does it all, we would all own it, instead of the collections we each have, for the individual applications. Oh yeah, I have a huge assortment of hammers, too.

stihl kickin · 3rd February 2011, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toyguy

how does the 25" bar ruin the saw it ran great.i have had not trouble with it sank the bar in full no lack of power or oil. bar never got hot not really even warm after about an hour of running the saw.

saw troll didn't mean, harming the saw. he meant the balance of the saw. easier on the operator.

stihl kickin · 3rd February 2011, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by APSE

In my opinion,
In any hand held tool, it is the balance of the tool that allows it to do the work for you or causes you to have to work it. I spent over 30 years in body shops and as a mechanic, I am a rebuilder by trade. As such I can tell you in great detail the difference between a good hammer and a bad hammer, and it has to do with balance, a saw is very similar. If the tool is well balanced and well proportioned it will handle well and reduce fatigue, essentially improve the operators efficiency, and actually make the job easier by doing the work for you. If it is imbalanced and awkward, it increases fatigue, slowing the production aspect and with a saw, making it almost unsafe to operate for long periods of time because it does not function as it was designed. If a saw balances well with an 18" bar and can still run a 28" bar, that may be acceptable in a pinch or for show. But if you need to run that 28" bar all day long you will feel less fatigued and be more efficient by using a larger saw that balances well with the 28" bar. A simple solution....... Just buy more saws!!!! Truly if there was one saw that does it all, we would all own it, instead of the collections we each have, for the individual applications. Oh yeah, I have a huge assortment of hammers, too.

nice explanation.

toyguy · 3rd February 2011, 01:21 PM

i agree that it must be balanced.I do know that putting the bigger bar did make it easier to run.i dont bend over to limb.the power to weight is almost perfect.i have a buddy who has a husky 385 xp and for wht we are trying to do which is cut firedwood, clean trails and so forth its too much.to heavy and it just doesnt fit.my sthil runs great has more than enough power and is light.i being a mechanic understand the balance issue.for me this saw fits..if i were to put a smaller bar on my saw it would not do wht i wnt it to.lots of power but y make two cuts in a tree when i can make one?maybe if i had to run my saw everyday allday long i might think different.

gooddog · 3rd February 2011, 02:04 PM

I know a guy that has a saw about the same size (husky 460) and is running a 20" bar. He would like to move up to a 25 or 28" bar because his "bender" doesn't work. (meaning: he has a hard time bending over)

I like running a shorter bar unless I NEED a long bar. Although, up until a month ago, I didn't have a problem with MY "bender". It's not the length of your tool, but what you can do with it.

The only wood I've had problems not getting enough oil was on dry dead oak.

toyguy · 3rd February 2011, 02:58 PM

ya i dont have the problem bending over i am just lazy.i dont wnt to.with that bar i can hold saw and feel safe and limb.the husk not so much.its too heavy.just doesnt feel well balanced as some would say.and that is just my opinion.its only been the last two yrs i have had much experiance with saws to begin with.but my sthil is comfortable.

SawTroll · 8th February 2011, 12:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by APSE

In my opinion,
In any hand held tool, it is the balance of the tool that allows it to do the work for you or causes you to have to work it. I spent over 30 years in body shops and as a mechanic, I am a rebuilder by trade. As such I can tell you in great detail the difference between a good hammer and a bad hammer, and it has to do with balance, a saw is very similar. If the tool is well balanced and well proportioned it will handle well and reduce fatigue, essentially improve the operators efficiency, and actually make the job easier by doing the work for you. If it is imbalanced and awkward, it increases fatigue, slowing the production aspect and with a saw, making it almost unsafe to operate for long periods of time because it does not function as it was designed. If a saw balances well with an 18" bar and can still run a 28" bar, that may be acceptable in a pinch or for show. But if you need to run that 28" bar all day long you will feel less fatigued and be more efficient by using a larger saw that balances well with the 28" bar. A simple solution....... Just buy more saws!!!! Truly if there was one saw that does it all, we would all own it, instead of the collections we each have, for the individual applications. Oh yeah, I have a huge assortment of hammers, too.

newguy18 · 8th February 2011, 12:55 AM

I wouldn't go more than 20" on a 361. If you wanna run 28" get a 460.

superfire · 8th February 2011, 10:09 AM

The shorter the bar the more chance of getting hurt

I feel nervous running saws with shorter then 32" bars

newguy18 · 8th February 2011, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by superfire

The shorter the bar the more chance of getting hurt

I feel nervous running saws with shorter then 32" bars

Not true, unless you take too much off the rakers or misharpen a chain.

gooddog · 8th February 2011, 01:21 PM

Many accidents happen when we are fatigued or tired, so sawing with 32" bar when a 20" bar would work, might not be "safe" for some people.

newguy18 · 8th February 2011, 01:29 PM

Yeah we get tired, but even when we aren't its simple math,the longer the bar,the more severe the kickback.

superfire · 8th February 2011, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gooddog

Many accidents happen when we are fatigued or tired, so sawing with 32" bar when a 20" bar would work, might not be "safe" for some people.

I find shorter bars cause a person to tire out quicker. Constant bending and straining because of the shorter bar. Me I run my 460 with a three foot bar all day, when I run my 360 with 2 foot bar I can only handle two hours before being wore out from the constant strain being over bendt over.

066logger · 9th February 2011, 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by superfire

I find shorter bars cause a person to tire out quicker. Constant bending and straining because of the shorter bar. Me I run my 460 with a three foot bar all day, when I run my 360 with 2 foot bar I can only handle two hours before being wore out from the constant strain being over bendt over.

???????????? hmm i find that interesting lol. it takes way more exertion to undercut with the tip of a 3 foot bar then it does with a 20". and then theirs the balance issue that has already been stated lol. my 660 feels perfectly balanced with a 20". hold the top handle with one hand and the saw stays level. do that with a 3 foot bar and see what happens. not to mention the increased sharpening time of the longer chains. plus the increased cost, plus the increased chance of throwing a chain on a longer bar. and just the extra weight of the bar makes me have no intrest in using a longer bar then i need. but i suppose to each his own......

23rd January 2011, 01:36 PM	#1
toyguy Sappling Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: pnw Posts: 7	ms 361 and 28" bar My local dealer sold me a 28" bar and skip tooth chain and said i would have no trouble running this setup on my 361 that i just purchased new.the saw came with a 25 and had the 28 option.is there anyone that has had trouble with running this..

23rd January 2011, 02:32 PM	#2
jamming Sappling Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: diablo wa Posts: 22	Re: ms 361 and 28" bar Hey ! Also new here and first post ! LOL ! I think it all depends on if you cut hardwoods. I went back and forth on the 362 with a 28" bar. But i was told not to do it ! Not enough power and will cut slow. So i went with the 460 magnum. I think the 361 and 362 are close on power, and the stihl web site says 25" Max.

23rd January 2011, 02:50 PM	#3
toyguy Sappling Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: pnw Posts: 7	Re: ms 361 and 28" bar It is basicaly going to be cutting firs in the northwest.red fir white fir tamarack.just wanted something that i didnt have to bend over and limb with..it cut just fine with the 25 on it.. just wntd more.

23rd January 2011, 04:11 PM	#4
superfire Former Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Central Oregon Posts: 166	Re: ms 361 and 28" bar You will be fine with that setup. My dealer has the 362 with 28" and your what ever chain you want . The saw needs only one minor tweak from new ant that is to faten up the high side a wee bit, protecats the saw by being a wee rich. Once it is past warranty open the muffler up abit and enjoy.

25th January 2011, 01:10 AM	#5
nmurph Sappling Join Date: May 2008 Location: georgia Posts: 48	Re: ms 361 and 28" bar it SHOULD have enough power to pull a 28" with skip. however, you may find that the oiler can't keep up.

25th January 2011, 07:28 AM	#6
Cut4fun Former Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: midwest Posts: 580	Re: ms 361 and 28" bar I put a 32" on my stock muffler modded 361 once. Just because I wanted to see if . I tested it with square chisel , full skip in softwood only. Spruce. The bar oiler couldnt keep up with 32". The 361 could make the cuts but would only want to have to do that in a emergency and no other bigger cc saws were available.

28th January 2011, 11:27 AM	#7
wrebelmachine Sappling Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: MO Posts: 22	Re: ms 361 and 28" bar You should be fine I had to in a bind put a 28" on an old Sachs Dolmar 117 and was pleased with how it cut. That is a 30 year old school saw that pulled it very well. Your 361 should have no trouble at all if you let the saw do the work for you.

29th January 2011, 01:08 PM	#8
toyguy Sappling Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: pnw Posts: 7	Re: ms 361 and 28" bar after I ran the saw this past weekend I dont think that i will have any trouble with the way it is after the yr is up and no more stihl warrenty may be some mods done.dont know how much more it needs thought.any thoughts?

30th January 2011, 01:28 PM	#9
superfire Former Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Central Oregon Posts: 166	Re: ms 361 and 28" bar Start with 10% more muffler opening then put a big bore kit on it. Then get the west 3/4 wrap handle and dual dawgs

30th January 2011, 01:46 PM	#10
Woods Ported I'm new here so be nice Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: USA Posts: 2	Re: ms 361 and 28" bar It won't exactly be impressive to put a 28" bar on a stock 361. Port it out and then try it.

31st January 2011, 01:25 AM	#11
Cut4fun Former Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: midwest Posts: 580	Re: ms 361 and 28" bar Good place to save this info from past post. Hate when I lose a HD and lose the info. Upgrade 361 oil pump with 460-R full wrap oil pump parts Issues with low output from 361 oil pumps. Replace the 361 oil pump with the 460-R full wrap high capacity oil pump assembly for about about $90. The Stihl part number is, 1128 640 3250 oil pump assembly Can also keep the 361 oil pump and just replace the piston and control bolt with the 460-R parts. The Stihl part numbers for these are, 1128 647 0602 oil pump piston $30 1128 647 4803 oil pump control bolt $5

1st February 2011, 12:52 PM	#12
APSE Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Aspen Park,Colorado Posts: 76	Re: ms 361 and 28" bar Gotta agree with woods ported and cut4fun. That saw stock is going to not be real impressive on a bar that size without modifications, even at sea level, it will do it but it won't be the best in production. Also, Stihls have a tendency to not produce enough oil for bars that length. Cut4fun pointed out some good info for making that situation better, it will increase the life of the chain as well as the bar, and will obviously will cut better and be easier on the engine if it is oiling correctly. Footnote: We are at 8500 feet in altitude and some of the local pro's here use the 361 for limbing(we lose 35% horsepower due to oxygen deprivation) Consequently we all like larger saws, maybe get the whole 460 instead of just the oil pump.....Can't have too many saws ya know! __________________ Vintage Chainsaws, Parts, Restorations, Custom Work, Special Saws on Request and Much More. Please visit our webalbum: http://picasaweb.google.com/APSELLC or our website https://apse.mybigcommerce.com/ APSE-LLC Email:apse-llc@live.com Phone:720-260-0157 Business Hours: Tuesday Through Friday 9-6 Saturday 9-5 Rocky Mountain Time, USA If ya got sumthin' ya can't find we'd be glad to try and help ya! Brian and Tina :

1st February 2011, 02:15 PM	#13
superfire Former Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Central Oregon Posts: 166	Re: ms 361 and 28" bar If you are like me I put vstacks on my saws.

1st February 2011, 02:39 PM	#14
gooddog Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: USA Wisconsin Posts: 72	Re: ms 361 and 28" bar I just put those 460-R pump parts in my 460 saw. That will get me 7cc more volume on that saw. I'm thinking of putting the old 460 parts into my new 361 because that will get me 2cc more oil. I am only running a 20" bar but cut a lot of dry dead wood that needs more. __________________ I'll be fine if my body holds out.

2nd February 2011, 03:22 PM	#16
toyguy Sappling Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: pnw Posts: 7	Re: ms 361 and 28" bar how does the 25" bar ruin the saw it ran great.i have had not trouble with it sank the bar in full no lack of power or oil. bar never got hot not really even warm after about an hour of running the saw.

2nd February 2011, 04:53 PM	#17
APSE Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Aspen Park,Colorado Posts: 76	Re: ms 361 and 28" bar In my opinion, In any hand held tool, it is the balance of the tool that allows it to do the work for you or causes you to have to work it. I spent over 30 years in body shops and as a mechanic, I am a rebuilder by trade. As such I can tell you in great detail the difference between a good hammer and a bad hammer, and it has to do with balance, a saw is very similar. If the tool is well balanced and well proportioned it will handle well and reduce fatigue, essentially improve the operators efficiency, and actually make the job easier by doing the work for you. If it is imbalanced and awkward, it increases fatigue, slowing the production aspect and with a saw, making it almost unsafe to operate for long periods of time because it does not function as it was designed. If a saw balances well with an 18" bar and can still run a 28" bar, that may be acceptable in a pinch or for show. But if you need to run that 28" bar all day long you will feel less fatigued and be more efficient by using a larger saw that balances well with the 28" bar. A simple solution....... Just buy more saws!!!! Truly if there was one saw that does it all, we would all own it, instead of the collections we each have, for the individual applications. Oh yeah, I have a huge assortment of hammers, too. __________________ Vintage Chainsaws, Parts, Restorations, Custom Work, Special Saws on Request and Much More. Please visit our webalbum: http://picasaweb.google.com/APSELLC or our website https://apse.mybigcommerce.com/ APSE-LLC Email:apse-llc@live.com Phone:720-260-0157 Business Hours: Tuesday Through Friday 9-6 Saturday 9-5 Rocky Mountain Time, USA If ya got sumthin' ya can't find we'd be glad to try and help ya! Brian and Tina :

3rd February 2011, 01:21 PM	#20
toyguy Sappling Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: pnw Posts: 7	Re: ms 361 and 28" bar i agree that it must be balanced.I do know that putting the bigger bar did make it easier to run.i dont bend over to limb.the power to weight is almost perfect.i have a buddy who has a husky 385 xp and for wht we are trying to do which is cut firedwood, clean trails and so forth its too much.to heavy and it just doesnt fit.my sthil runs great has more than enough power and is light.i being a mechanic understand the balance issue.for me this saw fits..if i were to put a smaller bar on my saw it would not do wht i wnt it to.lots of power but y make two cuts in a tree when i can make one?maybe if i had to run my saw everyday allday long i might think different.

3rd February 2011, 02:04 PM	#21
gooddog Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: USA Wisconsin Posts: 72	Re: ms 361 and 28" bar I know a guy that has a saw about the same size (husky 460) and is running a 20" bar. He would like to move up to a 25 or 28" bar because his "bender" doesn't work. (meaning: he has a hard time bending over) I like running a shorter bar unless I NEED a long bar. Although, up until a month ago, I didn't have a problem with MY "bender". It's not the length of your tool, but what you can do with it. The only wood I've had problems not getting enough oil was on dry dead oak. __________________ I'll be fine if my body holds out.

3rd February 2011, 02:58 PM	#22
toyguy Sappling Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: pnw Posts: 7	Re: ms 361 and 28" bar ya i dont have the problem bending over i am just lazy.i dont wnt to.with that bar i can hold saw and feel safe and limb.the husk not so much.its too heavy.just doesnt feel well balanced as some would say.and that is just my opinion.its only been the last two yrs i have had much experiance with saws to begin with.but my sthil is comfortable.

8th February 2011, 12:55 AM	#24
newguy18 Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: orlando,fl Posts: 4,948	Re: ms 361 and 28" bar I wouldn't go more than 20" on a 361. If you wanna run 28" get a 460. __________________ Have your say join us today. old schooler

8th February 2011, 10:09 AM	#25
superfire Former Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Central Oregon Posts: 166	Re: ms 361 and 28" bar The shorter the bar the more chance of getting hurt I feel nervous running saws with shorter then 32" bars

8th February 2011, 01:21 PM	#27
gooddog Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: USA Wisconsin Posts: 72	Re: ms 361 and 28" bar Many accidents happen when we are fatigued or tired, so sawing with 32" bar when a 20" bar would work, might not be "safe" for some people. __________________ I'll be fine if my body holds out.

8th February 2011, 01:29 PM	#28
newguy18 Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: orlando,fl Posts: 4,948	Re: ms 361 and 28" bar Yeah we get tired, but even when we aren't its simple math,the longer the bar,the more severe the kickback. __________________ Have your say join us today. old schooler

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