Husky 3120 which i would like to buy

MrDiesel

GDay All,

I have the opportunity to get a husky 3120 for $500 AUS. I do a bit of work on iron bark etc so im seriously thinking about this saw. I have a couple of questions:

The ID plate says 3120 W (1998) which i take to be a 1998 model. Is this correct? It has heaps of compression and starts fairly well.

Does anyone know what the W stands for?

My biggest saw is a 660 (about 8 months old) which has been exceptional but it has also been the largest saw i have used. Moving into the big league i noticed that this 3120 has a manual oiler. I'm wondering what the experienced peoples out there can tell me about how frequently to oil the bar during a cut.

Thanks All

Cut4fun

I have 2 3120's. But I am only guessing here. W stands for full wrap handle maybe?

For $500 oz you better get that thing. $500 is cheap even here in the US. I have seen them selling for $375, 400, 500, 600, 625, all the way to $1200 USD used.

One of my used ones cost me $3000 though.

3120 has a automatic oiler also. On my 084's the manual oiler is only needed on really long bars.

MrDiesel

Yep its definitly a full wrap handle. I ended up buying it. A little more bling for the outfit. The missus is nealry talking to me again.

Once i got it i also got a new 36 inch bar with a 25 foot box of 404 chain. I had a couple of quick runs through a camphor to check the oiler. It seems to be running without any dramas.

I was wondering at what size bar you need to start using the manual oiler? I dont have any need to go larger than 36 inch but just curious

Cut4fun

Running a 36" you wont need the manual oiler unless your milling and want the added lube.

By the way you got a steal of a deal.

On the length of bar to need the manual oiler just depends on uses IMO. With the 56" 60" it may not really need the manual oiler but it is there and eases the mind.

MrDiesel

Thanks mate, I was pretty happy with the saw. There are a few things showing there age but im fairly sure i can fix them all for under 100 bucks

MrDiesel

So far the 3120 is going well but i checked the compression after i given it about 60 hours of use ripping iron bark. The compression has dropped. To buy a new head kit is about $850 yet to buy the saw new via gyc is about $1900. So.... Im trying to decide if its worth repairing or replacing. I have seen head kits on flea bay for $80 us. Has anyone tried these? Opinions?? Im keeping in mind that after this job i dont think ill need the saw to much. My 660 with a 36' bar works well. Ill probably end up selling it after a few months. Anyone is Sydney looking for a sw for parts?

Cut4fun

Does it act like you have a air leak and you might be scoring the top end? There fore losing compression.

What is your PSI? Why wouldnt you think it dont just need a set of new rings?

Pull your jug de-glaze it lightly. Check to make sure piston skirts are not slapping and real shinny, if not just re-ring it.


I am running and testing one of the aftermarket p + c kits right now on my new to me stock 3120. So far it is running good.

Something I didnt like about the aftermarket cyl was they were chrome lined, instead of nicksel.

Got some long extended run rip cuts to do when the snow melts. I usually use my 2 084, but will see how this 3120 compares.

MrDiesel

I havent got the head off yet but compression is about 125 psi after 10 full length pulls of the starter. I placed about 20ml of 2 stroke oil in the cylinder and the compression stayed constant at about 165 psi so im thinking the rings are buggered. Im going to pop the head off and check for any scoring. If thats ok ill hone the cylinder and replace the rings.

I might spend 10 minutes on google first to see what the compression should be!!

Cut4fun

Took the rev-limited coil out of my stock 3120 and was shown step by step on how to put in a different coil and re-time the flywheel .

It runs like they should have been from the beginning IMO. Guess the rods are a weak link in the 3120 and they dont want them pulling that type of rpm's, so I can understand from their point of view.

If you pull the cyl to put rings, measure your base gasket? If you want more PSI run it without a base gasket or make your own really really thin base gasket for more PSI with new rings.

I could check my psi for you? It has new rings with thick stock gasket that will be pulled next time torn down for more psi.

MrDiesel

C4F, It would be most graciously recieved if you could check the compression on your 3120 if you have a spare second. I have had a look around but not found anythng conctrete about the pressure.

I saw a quick comment about the timing and rev limiting coils. Are you able to tell me any more about this? Ive not come across this before.

Thanks mate

Cut4fun

First off, what year was your 3120? I see it now 1998

Plus check your coil, is it black with 2 bolts or black with 3 bolts or a green coil. I bet 98 is black coil with 3 bolts. This will be simple for you.

That is what my stock one is that just went unlimited.

Cut4fun

With just over 3 hours of run time and aftermarket rings and piston with chrome bore aftermarket cylinder it is pulling 130-134psi with a thick paper gasket.

Cut4fun

STOCK 3120 with AF-M P+C and base gasket still in saw pulling 9T for fun in some 11" x 10" poplar round today to know off some rust.

Cut4fun

Wow how slow that stock 3120 video was with 9T

Here is a race ported 3120 on muffler and bigger gear. Chain was crap with dubbed up corners, but is all I had without going to a good chain.