How to break in a Saw Chain and Chainsaw

JohN Dee

Hi guys, I've spent a little bit of time the last week(HOURS the last few days) SEARCHING for where I read about how to properly "break in" a chain. I think I recall TreeD posting it, but I have gone through all of his posts and it's not in any.

So I'm asking for you guys to post his up or your own, or the manual's or whichever. If there are differences between brand, bars, bar length, types of chains, brands of chains post that too.

Oh heck while we're here we may aswell talk about how to properly break in a brand new chainsaw. Lets make this a good thread about it

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stihl #1

You will get as many answers to this as there are people to give them. My thoughts are:
Use synthetic oil and 89 octane fresh fuel, use a name brand bar oil, not cheap stuff from the bait and tackle store. I always add stabilizer also, but I have a lot of saws that may sit for a time so if you use the saw regularly then it may not be needed. I use a vacuum to pull fuel out of the tank when done and then start the saw and let it idle till it dies to get most of the fuel out of the system. Don't rev it up to use up the fuel since that will run it lean right before it dies.
Set the chain tension so that it snaps back to the bar when you check it at the bottom in the middle. Not too tight. Remember to hold up on the end of the bar while doing this, then tighten the bar nuts. A new chain will loosen quickly at first. Stihl chain is prestretched so not as bad as some other brands. Check the tension often, and loosen it up when you are done sawing.
Verify that the saw is not revving beyond WOT spec with the bar and chain on it. Doesn't hurt to set it 200 to 300 revs rich (slower) when it is new. Always warm up the engine before tuning or cutting. I start the engine get it off fast idle real quick, then slowly rev it up to about half throttle a dozen times or so, then tach it at WOT. By then you should be able to see oil being slung off the end of the bar when you hold it against the end of a log or a piece of cardboard.
A quality brand of saw will run better after a few tanks as it breaks in and may need tuning along the way.
Never tach a saw to WOT while cold. A big bore engine may cold seize.
HTH
Eddie

jim1nz

Excellent post Stihl 1.

With a new bar and chain, put a extra bit of oil on the bar but i dont know if this does anything really, it just throws the oil off as soon as ya start cutting. Use viscous brand name bar oils. Adjust the oiler to full if your that worried, but make sure it dont run dry!

New saw, use fully synthetic oil only. Mix it exactly with high octane fuel, i use 98 octane. When running the saw in, dont thrash the hell out of it just ease it into lifes work, but after 3 tanks of fuel thrash it. Make sure you take it in for a 10hr tune service.

Keep using good oil and dont forget to clean the air filter!!!

Take it easy

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bigshea13

i always tighten the chain pretty well the first run. i use it till paint on the edges of the bar start to deminish{before the bar turns blue.} i peel off the chain, file the bar down, put the bar back on and just glance the rakers{hopefully the joker im workin for doesnt use double raker safety chain/i never buy them...they suck! suck,suck,suck!did i mention they suck!}, then depending on what im doing with the saw i put the appropriate angle on and fire it back up}dont be lazy , kkep the file tilted up.
repeat as needed.

treevet

What you usin to file bar Bigshea? I like that manual (blue) file holder w file contained made just for this. See Sherrill above.

I like to take just a nick off the rakers with my Stihl chain grinder on a brandy new 020 chain before it even touches wood.

bigshea13

right now in using husky files. i usually use a flat file to do the bar and rakers but i have had to use a round file to do the bar before. i dont use handles. i just rest the files against my palms. i learned that way and now any additions to the process is only extra baggage.'
im with you on the touch up out of the package deal treevet. ive had poeple tell me im crazy. they say that i cant sharpen the chain as sharpe as it comes from the factory. so i let em cut with it new....take it...sharpen it..then they agree.

treevet

If you ever cross paths with one of these Chris (you may have already tried one and don't like it) you might give it a try. I like them and file can be replaced.
Dave

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bigshea13

ive seen them but never tried them. if you say you like em i may have to give one a wirl. do they have a specific name/?

treevet

Sherrill calls them a bar edge dresser, w 2 sided file, cost...$22.

newguy18

when breaking on the first start its not a bad idea to put a drop of oil in the cylinder so you don't dry start it.

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old schooler

playfordtree

These look great Vet, is it just Sherrill that sells them?

looks like it would be easy to work with.

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treevet

I think I saw them in Baily's too, Simon.

playfordtree

Found em
$16.95

Bailey's - Pferd Universal Edge Sharpener

I wonder how much to get shipped to Aus?
Might look around here more first, now that i know they exist, i know what to look for.

Cheers

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Jeff Darby

You also find these on Fleabay.

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bill24

How did you gents go with the bar dresser?

I got hold of one about 2 months ago, reckon its brilliant! Think its a Valore, very similiar to one shown above.

An old 24" stihl bar from the 066 is on it again and cutting full cutter bar length into stumps, and importantly - straight. I had thought it worn out after dressing at local saw shop.

Messed round with bar off saw and in vice for 3/4 hr.. handy little tool in my chainsaw box now.

Why weren't they around 25 yrs ago, better than a flat file by a mile.

VC Traders in Warragul were selling them on Ebay, I rang and got it delivered very promptly......about $36 Aus. Bit dear but worth it.

regards, Bill 24.

The Lorax

Well the Oregon manual stated that new chains should be soaked in oil before use.
I think that most people probably won't do this but the manufacturer says whats best.
how hard is it to get an old coat hanger hook the chain over it drop it into a can of bar oil for 24 hrs and then hang it back up to drip dry?
Seems like no work and all gain.
Apparently it is to do with the way the chains sre made, they use a rust preventative rather than a lubricant when the chains are manufactured so from first use the chain is running dry in the pins rather than floating on a film of oil.

newguy18

so dump some oil on the bar and chain before firing the saw up.

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The Lorax

Thats just a good way of making a mess what soaking does is allow the oil to enter all the little pins and galleries that are inside the chain, thereby letting the chain start from new with lube.
If you rebuilt a saw engine would you use 2 stroke oil as an assembly lube?
Same principle just a lot of difference in cost.

newguy18

Well seeing as i've never soaked a new chain and have a friend who does in south florida and my chains seem to last just as long as his i'd say just dumping some oil on it woks just fine but to each his own.Oh and no i use nd-30 when doing rebuilds,doesn't matter if its a car,truck,boat,saw,or anything else.

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The Lorax

Not sure what nd-30 is never heard of it.
If I am rebuilding a saw engine I use the same 2T oil that the machine burns.
If I am rebuilding a 4T engine I use the same lub oil that the engine runs.
I haven't to date soaked any chains that I have bought but I may just start trying the technique.
Why does Oregon chain recommend to soak chains in oil before use?

newguy18

Nd-30 is non detergant 30 motor oil,not really sure why oregon recomends soaking them in oil.

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woodman55

I know it's mfg recomendation but thats the craziest thing i've ever heard. Been sawin logs with for the family all my life and have never soaked a chain in oil, we get em new slap em on file until they cant be filed anymore and throw them in the chain bin.

Bruce Hopf

The reason that Oregon, recomends Soaking the New Chains, is because there is no Lubricating Oil on a New Chain. It's a rust inhibater Oil, that is suposed to stop Surface Rust.
Once you put on a New Chain onto the Chain Saw, the First Start of the Chain, is hardley any Oil to lubricate, and stop the Friction, once the Saw strats to turn the Chain on the Drive Sprocket, and the Guide Bar. It is a way to help against Friction of the inital strat for the Chain. I soak my Chains overnight for that reason.
I run my Chain Saw a little faster than Idel, but slower than half throttle, for a few miniutes to let the Chain get some of the Paint wore off the Drive Links, and readjust the tention of the Chain before I start to cut with it.
I start with cutting some Limbs off the Tree with the Chain Saw, and check the tention again, before I start cutting Bigger Wood, and then I'm set to go.

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1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
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rbtree

Totally unnecessary. The new chain has a bit of oil on it (and all oil lubricates), plus, as soon as it's up and running, the oiler will adequately supply the oil it needs. Also, stihl chain is prestretched, unlike Oregon, though Oregon has improved their chain recently, so its now closer to Stihl's in performance. It may also be harder, more like Stihl, which is all I buy these days. Good info on bar/chain care here:
http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdf/Shar...61301final.pdf

The only time I've ever soaked a chain, if it is got rusty from sitting around...and I've been running saws for nearly 40 years.

As far as breaking in a saw goes, run it hard, but not for prolonged periods. If anything back off the high speed jet so it's running a tad rich. Run full synthetic mix, at richer than the recommended 50-1, as should be done on all saws. (I've heard Klotz R50 is very good, and it is reasonably priced.) Run the best premium grade pump gas you can get, which, for me, is 93 octane. It's fine for my saws, many of which have been woods ported, and have compression of 170-190. Though I'd prefer to run AV-Gas or similar special product, i've not found the need. It'd be a pain sourcing it and picking it up, and it's pricey.

Bruce, there's no paint on saw chain....errr, except on the Stihl connecting straps that come with a reel of chain. The blueing is from the treatment process.

Bruce Hopf

Thanks for clearing that up for me. I knew that it wasn't Paint, but I Forgot the Proper Term for it. It is something like Hot Dipped if I remember correctly. Bruce.

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McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

cord arrow

LOL...we used to heat the dirt bike chains in the oven...while the oil was in the 'fridge...dunk 'em while they're still smokin'...

Our mums never quite embraced the procedure...

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cord arrow

Damn these threads are old...

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ty1220

I finished my first saw engine rebuild today. I put a 372 jug and piston on my 365 and am curious about the recommended run in procedure for a new 2 cycle engine. I have found a lot of info, naturally half of it contradicts the other bunch.

So... I started it up, let it idle for a couple of minutes and then started gently revving it up some. I did this for a bit, then shut it off for a few, restarted and did it all over again.

I see some people say baby them for a bit, other guys say start them and wring them out. lol I am going for a middle ground I guess you could say. I don't want it just sitting around idling, on the other hand I am not comfortable really getting on it yet.

I would like to hear from you guys and what you think.

Thanks in advance.

Willard Holmen

I like to break in a new sawchain by first cutting a few limbs or small stuff before I put it into big wood. I remember in the day when new sawchain right out of the box or off the roll had to be filed first because they came from the factory with a poor edge and poor angles. Now today its hard to file a new sawchain better then what the factories put out now. We have come a long ways. A new saw powerhead should be run with care for the first 4- 5 tanks, and that also means no cutting at WOT with a dull chain. Never run the gas tank empty to the last drop of fuel to get that last cut in. Keep your airfilter clean and your chain sharp.

ty1220

Thanks Holmen, that sounds right to me too. I have been using the saw, but on the gentle side. Not babying it, but as you said staying away from a lot of WOT, especially if I was really putting a load on it. I am gonna work it moderately for another few tanks and then I'll see what it will do. I did mix the gas a bit rich as well. I figured that probably can't hurt it and might help it during the break in. I realize that will throw off the jetting but I am not worried about that just yet.

I have heard from people, and know of manufacturers recommending that you soak a brand new chain. I can see their point but I have never done it. More out of laziness ( forgetfulness as well ) than anything else I think.

I am a bad one about checking my air filter, that's a good reminder.

Have a good day all