How to break in a Saw Chain and Chainsaw

JohN Dee

Hi guys, I've spent a little bit of time the last week(HOURS the last few days) SEARCHING for where I read about how to properly "break in" a chain. I think I recall TreeD posting it, but I have gone through all of his posts and it's not in any.

So I'm asking for you guys to post his up or your own, or the manual's or whichever. If there are differences between brand, bars, bar length, types of chains, brands of chains post that too.

Oh heck while we're here we may aswell talk about how to properly break in a brand new chainsaw. Lets make this a good thread about it

__________________
Climber with slow climbing speed, must make up with mighty chainsaw roar.

Free Tree and Green Industry Link Directory

Red : Green : Blue

stihl #1

You will get as many answers to this as there are people to give them. My thoughts are:
Use synthetic oil and 89 octane fresh fuel, use a name brand bar oil, not cheap stuff from the bait and tackle store. I always add stabilizer also, but I have a lot of saws that may sit for a time so if you use the saw regularly then it may not be needed. I use a vacuum to pull fuel out of the tank when done and then start the saw and let it idle till it dies to get most of the fuel out of the system. Don't rev it up to use up the fuel since that will run it lean right before it dies.
Set the chain tension so that it snaps back to the bar when you check it at the bottom in the middle. Not too tight. Remember to hold up on the end of the bar while doing this, then tighten the bar nuts. A new chain will loosen quickly at first. Stihl chain is prestretched so not as bad as some other brands. Check the tension often, and loosen it up when you are done sawing.
Verify that the saw is not revving beyond WOT spec with the bar and chain on it. Doesn't hurt to set it 200 to 300 revs rich (slower) when it is new. Always warm up the engine before tuning or cutting. I start the engine get it off fast idle real quick, then slowly rev it up to about half throttle a dozen times or so, then tach it at WOT. By then you should be able to see oil being slung off the end of the bar when you hold it against the end of a log or a piece of cardboard.
A quality brand of saw will run better after a few tanks as it breaks in and may need tuning along the way.
Never tach a saw to WOT while cold. A big bore engine may cold seize.
HTH
Eddie

jim1nz

Excellent post Stihl 1.

With a new bar and chain, put a extra bit of oil on the bar but i dont know if this does anything really, it just throws the oil off as soon as ya start cutting. Use viscous brand name bar oils. Adjust the oiler to full if your that worried, but make sure it dont run dry!

New saw, use fully synthetic oil only. Mix it exactly with high octane fuel, i use 98 octane. When running the saw in, dont thrash the hell out of it just ease it into lifes work, but after 3 tanks of fuel thrash it. Make sure you take it in for a 10hr tune service.

Keep using good oil and dont forget to clean the air filter!!!

Take it easy

__________________
SPEED ALWAYS FOLLOWS TECHNIQUE

bigshea13

i always tighten the chain pretty well the first run. i use it till paint on the edges of the bar start to deminish{before the bar turns blue.} i peel off the chain, file the bar down, put the bar back on and just glance the rakers{hopefully the joker im workin for doesnt use double raker safety chain/i never buy them...they suck! suck,suck,suck!did i mention they suck!}, then depending on what im doing with the saw i put the appropriate angle on and fire it back up}dont be lazy , kkep the file tilted up.
repeat as needed.

treevet

What you usin to file bar Bigshea? I like that manual (blue) file holder w file contained made just for this. See Sherrill above.

I like to take just a nick off the rakers with my Stihl chain grinder on a brandy new 020 chain before it even touches wood.

bigshea13

right now in using husky files. i usually use a flat file to do the bar and rakers but i have had to use a round file to do the bar before. i dont use handles. i just rest the files against my palms. i learned that way and now any additions to the process is only extra baggage.'
im with you on the touch up out of the package deal treevet. ive had poeple tell me im crazy. they say that i cant sharpen the chain as sharpe as it comes from the factory. so i let em cut with it new....take it...sharpen it..then they agree.

treevet

If you ever cross paths with one of these Chris (you may have already tried one and don't like it) you might give it a try. I like them and file can be replaced.
Dave

Attached Images

DSC00151.JPG (825.9 KB, 40 views)

bigshea13

ive seen them but never tried them. if you say you like em i may have to give one a wirl. do they have a specific name/?

treevet

Sherrill calls them a bar edge dresser, w 2 sided file, cost...$22.

newguy18

when breaking on the first start its not a bad idea to put a drop of oil in the cylinder so you don't dry start it.

__________________
Have your say join us today.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xzkd_m4ivmc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xzfzb...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-OqK...eature=related

playfordtree

These look great Vet, is it just Sherrill that sells them?

looks like it would be easy to work with.

Attached Images

bar file holder_.jpg (50.3 KB, 61 views)

__________________
I Drink
Therefore I am.

treevet

I think I saw them in Baily's too, Simon.

playfordtree

Found em
$16.95

Bailey's - Pferd Universal Edge Sharpener

I wonder how much to get shipped to Aus?
Might look around here more first, now that i know they exist, i know what to look for.

Cheers

__________________
I Drink
Therefore I am.

JayD

You also find these on Fleabay.

__________________

Free Tree and Green Industry Link Directory