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How to break in a Saw Chain and Chainsaw

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Old 25th July 2009, 03:13 PM   #31
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Default Re: How to break in a Saw Chain and Chainsaw

The last chain that I used new, was a month ago, on my 044. I put it on, and as I walked to a tree that I was going to cut down (about 150' from my pickup truck), I ran it at low speed, just enough to run the Chain, while I was walking in the field. If I was walking in the bush, I'd stand in one place, so I wouldn't trip over something and fall on the chain saw, then proceed to the tree, that I was going to be working on.
Once I got close to the Tree, I checked the tension, which was loose, tightened up the chain again, proceeded to clear the brush around the tree, checked the tension again, loose again, but after I tightened it again, I had no troubles with the tension keeping the proper tightness.
Personally, I soak my chains. Some say that it is not necessary, because they say the chainsaw gives oil automatically when it is revved up. Not so, because it takes a moment or two for the oil pump to re prime itself, to pump the oil, and the chain could be running dry for a revolution or two. I soak mine to give it a little extra lubrication, for the initial start up of the new chain, but each to their own. Bruce.
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McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).
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Old 26th July 2009, 01:24 AM   #32
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Default Re: How to break in a Saw Chain and Chainsaw

I quess thats why I break in a new chain by first cutting limbs and under growth for a few minutes so the chain gets a chance to get some oil and loosen up. Then re-tension.
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Old 31st March 2010, 09:23 AM   #33
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Default Re: How to break in a Saw Chain and Chainsaw

Well, Hello And G'Day to Everyone! I'm brand new to this forum, and brand new to owning a chainsaw.

So, bought a Stihl 441 Pro saw and went throught the paces with the store technician. Strarting it, revving and handling. All went great. Superb saw, I figured! Now, here I am at home, and I can't even get the damn thing started! Let alone try out bucking a log I've got all set up. So, my first question, what the heck? What am I missing starting this thing? And the second question is: During Break-in I'm not supposed to run high revs off load. Does that mean it's OK, or even encouraged, to run high revs while cutting for the first few tanks?
Should I just run at half revs and cut some small timber for a few tanks before turning cedar trees into lumber?
ciao for now, thanks for reading this far!
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Old 31st March 2010, 09:36 AM   #34
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Default Re: How to break in a Saw Chain and Chainsaw

There is a four position leaver switch on your chain saw, to the left of the rear handle. It should have small pictures of every position for the leaver, and what it does.
While holding the throttle trigger all the way in, as if it was at wide open throttle, push that leaver switch all the way down, to the bottom. Give the starter rope a few pulls, till it starts, or offers.
Once you the chain saw starts, or offers to start, while holding the throttle trigger in again, raise the lever up one notch, or position, and pull the starter rope again, till the chain saw starts. Once it starts, rev the chain saw up, and let go of the throttle trigger. The leaver will go into the next position, automatically, where the chain saw will idle for you.
When you want to shut the chain saw off, raise the leaver one more notch, or position, it will turn the chain saw off.
If you have any troubles, don't hesitate to ask any questions, no matter how dumb you think they are. The dumbest question, is the one that was never asked in the first place. Hope this help you a bit, and good luck with the new toy. Bruce.
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McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).
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Old 31st March 2010, 12:12 PM   #35
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Default Re: How to break in a Saw Chain and Chainsaw

Thanks Bruce,
Your directions match what I did in the first place. I suspect that perhaps my spark plug is gummed up(?). I'll check that, but thanks again for the reply. One would think that these days a pull start would be quick and easy....hmmmm....perhaps I'm not "cut out" for this? Will try again. As for the break-in period, is it OK to rev full throttle WHILE cutting something? It really only recommends not full revs for off load for the first few tanks. Stihl could use a bit more wording in their manuals I suspect.
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Old 25th April 2010, 10:53 AM   #36
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Default Re: How to break in a Saw Chain and Chainsaw

Hi Guys,
The idea of soaking a chain in oil overnight has some merrit. But! The chain on a chainsaw wears the cutters out way before the chain links and pins are worn out. On a motorbike we use them until the links and pins are worn out. So I personally think that soaking a chainsaw chain before use as recomended is maybe a waste of time but on a bike definetaly worth it.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Luckydave.
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Old 25th April 2010, 01:37 PM   #37
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Default Re: How to break in a Saw Chain and Chainsaw

Quote:
Originally Posted by luckydave View Post
Hi Guys,
The idea of soaking a chain in oil overnight has some merrit. But! The chain on a chainsaw wears the cutters out way before the chain links and pins are worn out. On a motorbike we use them until the links and pins are worn out. So I personally think that soaking a chainsaw chain before use as recomended is maybe a waste of time but on a bike definetaly worth it.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Luckydave.
What I was talking about for a new chain. The oil on the chain isn't intended for, or as a lubrication. It is there, to prevent the chain from rust, as it is being shipped, or on a shelf, in at a dealer.
Once the chain has run a bit, it will get the proper lubrication, that it needs, from the oiler of the chain saw, but for the initial start, of the chain, it doesn't hurt, to have that, little extra bit of chain oil.
__________________
McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).
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