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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Sappling Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Toronto, ON
Posts: 6
| Hello folks, I heard a rumour that running a saw without a bar and chain is bad for the engine, is this true or false? Also, with regards to storing a chainsaw, my McCulloch owner's manual suggests to fill the combustion chamber with oil and then pull the starter rope several times to disperse the oil. Is using 4-stroke (synthetic) SAE 30 oil recommended or should I only use 2-stroke engine oil? When removing from storage, how do I flush/clean the engine? Using gasoline or ?? Many thanks. |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Live Oak Florida home of the crapiest trees you will ever see.
Posts: 2,679
| sae 30 is okay to store the cylinder with it'll just smoke for a few minutes when you start it up again. running a saw without a bar and chain will only hurt the engine if you run it full throttle for more than a minute[no load on the clutch,without the bar and chain its already moving faster.] if you store yours with gas in the tank go to your local dealer or auto parts store and buy a product called sta-bil.it'll keep your gas fresh for a year.if you ned to clean your tank dump what you can out and fill the tank about half full and swish fuel mix around it that will usually clean it but you might have to use a blow gun with an air compressor to clean it.hope that helps. ![]()
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| Eric Frei Administrator - Brisbane L5 (Dip) Hort Cert III Arb + some Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 6,932
| I'd use 2 stroke oil for the cylinder rather than ordinary motor oil. It seems to coat better, tacky and less likely to perhaps dribble off. Also when starting it cant hurt. No bar or chain, over revving is the issue.
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Sappling Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: chesapeake, virginia
Posts: 11
| To add to all this: here in Virginia the gasoline (fuel, petrol) is awful. It has 6 to 10% ethanol added, and winter blend will vapor lock easy, and our weather has been all over the place but mainly way warmer than usual, so it is even worse. So for me here with this fuel, I use Stihl Ultra full synthetic oil, and add fuel stabilizer as well. I use a vacuum tank to suck the fuel out of the tank, but leave it in the carb. I do not run the engine out of fuel. It is hard on the piston as it goes lean as it runs out. I have not had to put oil in the cylinder, but it sure won't hurt to do it, especially for a long period of storage. For my saws I actually cut with, I just make sure and cut with them from time to time, at least every 6 months. For the collection saws that I get running but probably will not use regularly, I let them idle out of fuel after sucking out the tank. I always tune the saw with a tach with the bar and chain installed, to the wide open no-load RPM spec. for the saw and re-tune if I change to a different length bar. HTH |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Pacific Northwest USA
Posts: 127
| I have stored some 2-stroke engine stuff for over 20 years with great results. I run the last tank of gas through it with Sta-Bil until the tank is empty and let the gas tank dry out. Then squirt (not pour) a few squirts of oil into the spark plug port and pull the starter a few times. Thats it. Keep it in a dry place and it will last for (well in my case) 20 years. Any good new motor oil will be fine. 2-stroke oil is a little thin, but if its for a year or less storage that stuff is fine. No need to bathe it in oil. ![]() For summer storage around here (during fire season we do not cut much for about 3 months) I just run the last tanks of gas with Sta-bil and run them out of gas and store them. Maybe clean them up at that time too. I do not use oil or solvent or anything. I also keep one or two saws up for general farm work in summer, and for those I use the same pre-mix with Sta-Bil in the gas to keep it fresh for a few months. Seems to work good. I have found that during storage of any kind of engines, gas fouling is the biggest problem in the carbs, usually varnishing them or gumming up the jets. ![]()
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| Sappling Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: CANADA
Posts: 31
| I've been collecting saws for many years and i find that if a saw sits on a shelf for a long time the oil will get gummy and eventually dry-out and some dissassembly and cleaning will need to be performed. The only thing so far that i use without problems is transmission oil...it is not petroleum based and it does leave a permanent coating on all internal parts. It is not harmful to any seals and on the contrary it prevents shrinkage and cracks and the seals stays souple. As for restarting a saw that has been stored....i simply pour gaz mix in the muffler and crank the engine slowly then turn it around to empty the base and it usually start pretty easy.(use your judgment and dont pour a gallon of tranny fluid to make an hydrostatic lock-up).....otherwise your in big trouble.......... ![]() This process needs to be perform at the muffler since many saws have reeds that will not allow oil to enter the base.......piston ported saws on the other hand will allow oil to be poured at the carb. Alain, |
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Live Oak Florida home of the crapiest trees you will ever see.
Posts: 2,679
| Can we get a link please? ![]()
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 64
| I don't have a link, but I used to race motocross here so in winter we stored the bikes. Got it from my local cycle shop, I'd check online with one of the big suppliers. |
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| | #11 (permalink) |
| Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Live Oak Florida home of the crapiest trees you will ever see.
Posts: 2,679
| Thanks i'll check with the bike shopas well.I've never heard of it before i jst always coated pistons in 10w 30 for storage or on rebuilds.
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