gas to oil ratio

sportsman70

What is the best ratio to run in husqvarna chainsaws,40:1 or 50:1

sharkey

32:1

Willard Holmen

Hey guys I'm trying to start an oil thread war here but....
If your running cheap oil yes 32:1 is a good idea. But with todays excellent semi-synthetic Husqvarna or Stihl's full synthetic Ultra oil, 50:1 is the best ratio. If your in dusty hot weather conditions you are more then safe with 40:1. Regular Stihl and Husqvarna oil is also all you need at 50:1 in any conditions. The synthetics offer a little extra protection and you can breath a little easier from the cleaner exhaust.

Eric Frei

Here's the mix rates in metric.

25:1 means 40ml of oil to 1lt of gas
32:1 means 32ml of oil to 1lt of gas
40:1 means 25ml of oil to 1lt of gas
50:1 means 20ml of oil to 1lt of gas

I too run Stihl synthetic two stroke at 34:1 (I use 30ml oil for 1lt gas)... have done for years, no excess smoke, no oiled plugs and great peace of mind.

I don't like any other 2-stroke oil either.

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TrevMcRev

Stihl Synthetic at 50:1

newguy18

Husky xp synthetic oil at 50 to 1.32 to 1?thats alot of oil,the only thing i have that runs that mix is my 4 wheeler.

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Therrin

Your 4 wheeler uses mix???



I use Stihl fully-synthetic 50:1
Never used anything else. In fact... I decided that it works so well that I Wont use anything else. It's got a fuel stabilizer added in as well.

Mmmm...wait, I did use Stihl's semi-synthetic for a long time. I just use the fully synthetic now. Dont really notice much difference, but it apparently burns cleaner? (shrugs)

newguy18

Yep,polaris 250[really 300] trailblazer,i got it back last weekend,had it home for all of 20 minutes and managed to run the neighbor's dog over.

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Therrin

windthrown

I use about 45:1. More oil is not always better, especially with the new synthetics. I use Elf 2T oil, now that Mobil 1 no longer sells 2T stateside. I have found that JASO FC or better full synthetic runs better, with less crap built up in the saw, and far less smoke.

hoot gibson

i own a husky and two stihls. my dealers said to run only 50:1 since they had to do the warrenty work i figured i would listen to them .. why the difference? h

Therrin

From what I understood the warranty only applies to regular home-owner use. Not professional use with a company or tree service of any kind.

newguy18

pro use on stihl saws has a 90 day warrenty,home owners get a 2 year warrenty.

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hoot gibson

what if your a tree service that owns there own home? even though im one of the smartest men on earth, you guys know this . im not a pro tree service . im not even a service . now im feelin bad . i just get to kut fire wood . h

newguy18

I'm sure that yuor local dealer can tell what a saw has been through just by looking at it.I'm in my shop every 2 weeks getting chains shortened.

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windthrown

From what the guys in shops tell me here, just buy your saws as personal use saws. That way you get the extended service warantee. They cannot tell you otherwise. In my case, I managed 85 acres of trees. I had personal saws, not a pro business. So I got the long warantee.

hoot gibson

i would think that even a pro user useing his saw all the time would take better care of it then most homeowners . how many saws does a homeowner buy in a lifetime , versis how many saws a pro would buy ? let alone other equipment , chains and such . seems to me , i would want to take care of the pro guy .

Willard Holmen

Yes I agree. I myself who makes a living with saws, have never had a warranty problem with my dealer . For the amount of business I do with him he is more then happy to go well past the warranty deadline. If I wasn't happy with a chain or whatever he will gladly replace it for free. Dealers appreciate the pro users because of the business and free advertising they are getting. But there are way more casual users though which is good for the dealer too, especially if the dealership sharpens chains for the casual.

Therrin

You say some of the strangest things Bill.... I've never had to take a chain in to get it shortened.

Does anyone else get their chains "shortened" every 2 weeks?

I mean, I know they stretch with age, but if they're stretching so far that your tension adjuster cant keep up with it, then you've got some shitty chains!

rick

Stihl synth in Oz ? really ?

What specs does it have on the bottle Ekk ? I didn't know it was available here, or more to the point, I've never seen it.

I'm guessing it's just re-packaged Castrol Power 1 Racing TTS or a Castrol brew very similar. (Castrol blend Stihl lubes worldwide)

I'll stick to Motul 800 2T though although I'd be happy with Silkolene Pro 2 SX, Elf HTX 976, Maxima 927, etc.

There's some great 2 stroke lubes available, you just need to look further than a saw shop.

Mix ratio depends a lot on the oil too. A number of JASO FB/C/D oils are fairly thin at around 7-8 cSt @ 100*C (roughly SAE 20) for injector use, whereas pre-mix only race oils like the ones I listed above are often 15-20 cSt, or SAE 40-50.

BTW, the more oil the more power. Ring seal is the name of the game. The blokes that race and hang around on racesaws usually use 32:1 even in their work saws and they claim minimal to no carbon buildup using the type of oils I listed.

Willard Holmen

I remember back in the early 1980s Stihl started to sell in our logging area when everyone was running Husky,Jonsered and Partner. For years before since the late '60s everyone ran Castrol Super 2 Stroke oil . Stihl brought out their Stihl brand on the bottle with a very small Castrol logo on the back label. It took years for loggers to buy the Stihl brand even though the Stihl dealer swore it was Super 2 Stroke.
You can't compare racing saws and work saws when your comparing mix oil. Yes ring seal is very important when you double the compression and up the rpm in a race saw. Alot of compettitors don't run cooling fins on their race saws either, then you would definately need a good friction barrier. But for the work saw in some parts of the world it has to perform in -35C and a few months later in + 45C temps. Now the fancy race oils might work just fine in +45 but how about -35? Saw manufacturers have been doing product research and development for over 80 years, very competitive market if they say use this oil then you are reasured you won't go wrong, And yes the Stihl and Husky full and semi synthetics are a very good product [for a "work saw"].

emr

100:1 Seriously. Here is a link. We just started using it, but we have talked to many people who have been using it daily for years without any problems.

AMSOIL - Saber? Synthetic 100:1 Pre-Mix 2-Cycle Oil (ATP)

Bruce Hopf

I'm wondering, if your Chain Loops where made Too Long, for your Chain Saw, when you get your New Chain Loops. .
I agree with Ken, that Chains do Stretch with Age, but I have never had to get a Chain Shortened. Other than that I have No Idea why you are having this Trouble.
As for the Oil Ratio, I use Stihl Premium (all I can find from my Dealer) at
40:1. When I mix up my Oil/Gas Mix, I mix up 20 Liter Mixes (stupid Metric System, have No Idea what that is in Gallons. Used to know.) at a time with 18 Liters of Gas, instead of 20 Liters. Sure I have more Smoke, but helps with the Mosquitoes in the Spring and Summer.
My 044, and 024 calls for this Ratio, while my 034 calls for 50:1. A little more Oil won't hurt anything, other than Smoke a bit more. Bruce.

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McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

newguy18

Mostly stihl and oregon chains Ken.i do alot of dead oak trees and it can be compared to cutting concrete at times,i've actually smoked the tip of a guide bar in the process of cutting on really hard section of oak.I'm a nightmare on tools to begin with,plus i deal with some really bad conditions.I've been going in after the dozer guys push all the trees over and bucking the trees small enough to where they can be burnt,the combnation of sand,hardwood,and heat is really taxing on the bar,chain,clutch and saw itself.

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hoot gibson

i had to have my chain shortened while i was in high school . kept triping over it .

Bruce Hopf

Just a Question here, Since they Knew that you were going in to Cut the Stuff into Sections in the First Place, wouldn't it have been easier to have you come in, Fell the Trees, and then cut it up into sections, then push it up into Piles to be Burnt? I think it would be a lot Easier on your Equipment to do it that way. Just a Thought. Bruce.

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McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

newguy18

They didn't know,i'm coming in anywhere from 1 to 10 years after the fact by the homeowners.

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Bruce Hopf

Wouldn't the Wood be Rotten away after a few years. If it was Dozy, the Chain would rip through it like a Hot Knife through Butter.
I take it that this work was done by the Bulldozers, prior to your Customer taking Possession of the Property, and calling in you for the Clean Up. Bruce

__________________
McCulloch chain saws
1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's,
2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener,
1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver
2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10
Stihl chain saws
2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084,
Strunk chain saws
1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special
Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder).

newguy18

Most of the oaks down here usually dry out and become rock hard.Theres also some that get soft,until you've worked professionally in this area for at least 6 months,you wouldn't understand,this area is hell on tools.

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Therrin

Is it the area or the operator? In all my years of work I've STILL never bent a Stihl bar the way you did with the one you had in the first month you got it.