Chains and sharpening

newguy18 · 9th January 2008, 08:37 PM

Hey whenevers fine.just let me now what shipping costs so I can ship it back to you.

Quintrex · 9th January 2008, 10:36 PM

Oregon states that safety chain is 17% less efficient than other chain. I've noticed that it doesn't cut as well and won't use it.

Therrin · 14th January 2008, 10:02 PM

Well today turned out pretty good.

I picked up some RM chain for my 25" bar on the 361.

Also got two "RM" equivelant chains for my 200T, but they're in picco, so they aren't actually "rm", i just forgot what they're specified as.

Originally picked up a 14" Rollomatic E bar for my 200T, then he showed me the Rollomatic E "light" bar, and I got that one instead. it's 30% lighter than the other.... noticeable difference, just holding it.

I'm phasing out all of my "safety chain"... swapping over to more aggressive and faster cutting stuff.

Then, later on after that, I was over at a friend's place, and he gave me a Poulan P3314 BRAND NEW, with a 14" bar/chain on it. It's certainly not the world's greatest saw or anything, but it was brand new and free

Can't beat that. Nice little backup saw, never even had gas in it yet.

RandyMac · 15th January 2008, 02:59 AM

I handfile, touch up as I go. I do better with the bigger chain, old eyes you know. I learned from my Grandad, he was an old style logger, knew how to get the most out of a chain. As a lad, I spent 3 years in the CA forestry, one of our projects was clearing old logs left by the 1964 flood. I was attacted to a Mac 660 geardrive with a 48" bar, the logs were well seasoned, grit embeded Doug Fir for the most part. It wasn't unusual to touch up the chain 4-5 times a day, more if things were nasty. I got good at it, could whip through the almost 9' of chain in 10 minutes or so. 1/2" pitch was easy, the files were pencil sized. Square file came later, a bit of a trick there, not that tough after awhile. As with anything, the more you do, the easier it gets.

From 1975, a few crew members clowning around, I'm at the left holding a boat anchor.

Ekka · 18th January 2008, 05:04 AM

You must have had arms like a gorilla using that beast of a saw!

treevet · 18th January 2008, 05:43 AM

Also, that is one squared away, color coordinated crew for 1975!

Therrin · 18th January 2008, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by treevet

Like most of you I like to hand sharpen so as not to take the temper out of the metal. There is no reason not to use a machine on the rakers though and, with my stihl HOS grinder on a stand that I have had many years I can do a 36 inch chain in maybe a minute (rakers). I think raker reduction is way underused by the inexperienced.

Treevet, I've considered getting a grinder for a while now. Do you know if there's much working difference or quality between the Stihl grinder and the Oregon model? I know there's a significant price difference.

As far as rakers, it'd sure help with that. Grinding rakers down with a dremel makes the stones pretty uneven. It's hard to keep it where you need it while grinding without it skipping around.

newguy18 · 18th January 2008, 04:33 PM

rakers with a dremel?unless you really let them go yuo should only need a few keen strokes with a flat file and a depth gauge tool.The two are about 10 bucks at any dealer and its really not to hard but to each his own.

treevet · 18th January 2008, 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Therrin

Treevet, I've considered getting a grinder for a while now. Do you know if there's much working difference or quality between the Stihl grinder and the Oregon model? I know there's a significant price difference.

As far as rakers, it'd sure help with that. Grinding rakers down with a dremel makes the stones pretty uneven. It's hard to keep it where you need it while grinding without it skipping around.

No Therrin, I am not familiar with any other grinders. IMO the most important part is setting the machine up. You want to set it up so the longest chain will not touch the floor. I also like to sit down while doing it so a tall bar type chair works. If you put it (bolt it) on your work bench it gets in the way. I had my welder friend make me a stand that puts the area where the wheel meets the chain right around eye level when sitting down. A good focused light source is also important right on the chain. I ve got a fluorescent light also on a moveable, bendable type stand that works perfect. I d go for the cheaper one if all is fairly equal specs.

PS. Sorry for a bit of a wrestling match on other thread. I m over it if you are.

Therrin · 18th January 2008, 06:49 PM

Sounds like a good setup. Having it at eye-level really makes alot of sense. I wouldn't have thought of that. I've got a welder so I'll be making my own stand. Good stuff to keep in mind though, thanks.

PS. we're good ;-)

Quintrex · 18th January 2008, 08:41 PM

I usually file freehand, but use the Oregon grinder when I've hit a nail or somesuch that requires more taken off the chain.
The Oregon grinder is good. With any grinder, be gentle and take your time to avoid burning the chain and ruining the temper. Sometimes you may need to go around the chain several times to avoid overheating.

bigshea13 · 18th January 2008, 09:12 PM

All the stuff I have is pretty much low-kickback safety chain, but all the in-between rakers are really annoying me. It's hard to file them down without wearing divots in my sharpening stones. And I'm ready for a more aggressive cutting chain. I'll just have to be more carefull I suppose.
__________________
grind those friggers off. i got one by mistake once ground off the safety rakers.... and ended up using it to cut up 10' pieces of pvc in half. they suck!

dannyboysfc · 18th January 2008, 09:19 PM

PFERD Chain Saw Files & Accessories - Chain Sharp Tool & Accessories

check the link to see my favorite for sharpening a saw out on the jobsite.
It works really well, both teeth and rakers at the same time.

Therrin · 18th January 2008, 09:20 PM

I've already solved that one Shea, went out a week ago and bought all brand new RM chains, and the "rm-equiv" for the picco stuff. Don't have any in-between rakers" to bug me!

The saw shops here sell a saw smaller than a 440/441 with safety chain already on it. When I was more inexperienced I just thought the chain was supposed to be like that, so when I bought 5 of each size, I bought it all as SAFETY CHAIN

I'm such a dumbass eh?

Luckily that was quite a while ago and most of them are starting to wear down to nubs. I still have the stuff but I only use the RM chains now.

Therrin · 18th January 2008, 09:21 PM

Dannyboysfc,

The link comes up saying "no changes were made, Shopping Cart not updated".

dannyboysfc · 18th January 2008, 09:28 PM

Fixed it, is a link to the mfg site, you can buy them from Sherrill Tree for around 28$ if I remember right.

SawTroll · 22nd January 2008, 12:39 AM

Hand filing only, and only touch-up in the woods (normally).

2-4 chains per bar.

9th January 2008, 08:37 PM	#26 (permalink)
newguy18 Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Live Oak Florida home of the crapiest trees you will ever see. Posts: 2,683	Re: Chains and sharpening Hey whenevers fine.just let me now what shipping costs so I can ship it back to you. __________________ Have your say join us today. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xzkd_m4ivmc http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xzfzb...eature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-OqK...eature=related

9th January 2008, 10:36 PM	#27 (permalink)
Quintrex Mature tree Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Sydney Posts: 464	Re: Chains and sharpening Oregon states that safety chain is 17% less efficient than other chain. I've noticed that it doesn't cut as well and won't use it. __________________ Heightmaster

14th January 2008, 10:02 PM	#28 (permalink)
Therrin The Tree World Bandit Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Lancaster, Ca Posts: 1,273	Re: Chains and sharpening Well today turned out pretty good. I picked up some RM chain for my 25" bar on the 361. Also got two "RM" equivelant chains for my 200T, but they're in picco, so they aren't actually "rm", i just forgot what they're specified as. Originally picked up a 14" Rollomatic E bar for my 200T, then he showed me the Rollomatic E "light" bar, and I got that one instead. it's 30% lighter than the other.... noticeable difference, just holding it. I'm phasing out all of my "safety chain"... swapping over to more aggressive and faster cutting stuff. Then, later on after that, I was over at a friend's place, and he gave me a Poulan P3314 BRAND NEW, with a 14" bar/chain on it. It's certainly not the world's greatest saw or anything, but it was brand new and free Can't beat that. Nice little backup saw, never even had gas in it yet. __________________ Ken Fessia I.T.S.A. Tree Service (661) 916-4703

15th January 2008, 02:59 AM	#29 (permalink)
RandyMac Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: NW California Posts: 77	Re: Chains and sharpening I handfile, touch up as I go. I do better with the bigger chain, old eyes you know. I learned from my Grandad, he was an old style logger, knew how to get the most out of a chain. As a lad, I spent 3 years in the CA forestry, one of our projects was clearing old logs left by the 1964 flood. I was attacted to a Mac 660 geardrive with a 48" bar, the logs were well seasoned, grit embeded Doug Fir for the most part. It wasn't unusual to touch up the chain 4-5 times a day, more if things were nasty. I got good at it, could whip through the almost 9' of chain in 10 minutes or so. 1/2" pitch was easy, the files were pencil sized. Square file came later, a bit of a trick there, not that tough after awhile. As with anything, the more you do, the easier it gets. From 1975, a few crew members clowning around, I'm at the left holding a boat anchor. Last edited by RandyMac : 15th January 2008 at 03:05 AM. Reason: added pic

18th January 2008, 05:04 AM	#30 (permalink)
Ekka Eric Frei Administrator - Brisbane L5 (Dip) Hort Cert III Arb + some Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane Posts: 6,943	Re: Chains and sharpening You must have had arms like a gorilla using that beast of a saw! __________________ Remember to use the "search" function, if you have answers/questions post them so everyone can benefit. Free Tree and Green Industry Link Directory Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping \| Stump Grinding and Stump Removal Brisbane Brisbane Tree Care, Consultations, Developer, Tree and Arborist Reports Forum Sponsors

18th January 2008, 05:43 AM	#31 (permalink)
treevet Over mature heritage tree Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio, USA Posts: 979	Re: Chains and sharpening Also, that is one squared away, color coordinated crew for 1975!

18th January 2008, 04:33 PM	#33 (permalink)
newguy18 Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Live Oak Florida home of the crapiest trees you will ever see. Posts: 2,683	Re: Chains and sharpening rakers with a dremel?unless you really let them go yuo should only need a few keen strokes with a flat file and a depth gauge tool.The two are about 10 bucks at any dealer and its really not to hard but to each his own. __________________ Have your say join us today. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xzkd_m4ivmc http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xzfzb...eature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-OqK...eature=related

18th January 2008, 06:49 PM	#35 (permalink)
Therrin The Tree World Bandit Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Lancaster, Ca Posts: 1,273	Re: Chains and sharpening Sounds like a good setup. Having it at eye-level really makes alot of sense. I wouldn't have thought of that. I've got a welder so I'll be making my own stand. Good stuff to keep in mind though, thanks. PS. we're good ;-) __________________ Ken Fessia I.T.S.A. Tree Service (661) 916-4703

18th January 2008, 08:41 PM	#36 (permalink)
Quintrex Mature tree Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Sydney Posts: 464	Re: Chains and sharpening I usually file freehand, but use the Oregon grinder when I've hit a nail or somesuch that requires more taken off the chain. The Oregon grinder is good. With any grinder, be gentle and take your time to avoid burning the chain and ruining the temper. Sometimes you may need to go around the chain several times to avoid overheating. __________________ Heightmaster

18th January 2008, 09:12 PM	#37 (permalink)
bigshea13 Mature tree Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: hiding Posts: 378	Re: Chains and sharpening All the stuff I have is pretty much low-kickback safety chain, but all the in-between rakers are really annoying me. It's hard to file them down without wearing divots in my sharpening stones. And I'm ready for a more aggressive cutting chain. I'll just have to be more carefull I suppose. __________________ grind those friggers off. i got one by mistake once ground off the safety rakers.... and ended up using it to cut up 10' pieces of pvc in half. they suck!

18th January 2008, 09:19 PM	#38 (permalink)
dannyboysfc Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: California Posts: 121	Re: Chains and sharpening PFERD Chain Saw Files & Accessories - Chain Sharp Tool & Accessories check the link to see my favorite for sharpening a saw out on the jobsite. It works really well, both teeth and rakers at the same time.

18th January 2008, 09:20 PM	#39 (permalink)
Therrin The Tree World Bandit Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Lancaster, Ca Posts: 1,273	Re: Chains and sharpening I've already solved that one Shea, went out a week ago and bought all brand new RM chains, and the "rm-equiv" for the picco stuff. Don't have any in-between rakers" to bug me! The saw shops here sell a saw smaller than a 440/441 with safety chain already on it. When I was more inexperienced I just thought the chain was supposed to be like that, so when I bought 5 of each size, I bought it all as SAFETY CHAIN I'm such a dumbass eh? Luckily that was quite a while ago and most of them are starting to wear down to nubs. I still have the stuff but I only use the RM chains now. __________________ Ken Fessia I.T.S.A. Tree Service (661) 916-4703

18th January 2008, 09:21 PM	#40 (permalink)
Therrin The Tree World Bandit Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Lancaster, Ca Posts: 1,273	Re: Chains and sharpening Dannyboysfc, The link comes up saying "no changes were made, Shopping Cart not updated". __________________ Ken Fessia I.T.S.A. Tree Service (661) 916-4703

18th January 2008, 09:28 PM	#41 (permalink)
dannyboysfc Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: California Posts: 121	Re: Chains and sharpening Fixed it, is a link to the mfg site, you can buy them from Sherrill Tree for around 28$ if I remember right.

22nd January 2008, 12:39 AM	#42 (permalink)
SawTroll Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Troms, North Norway Posts: 63	Re: Chains and sharpening Hand filing only, and only touch-up in the woods (normally). 2-4 chains per bar.