Chains

Man of God

I purchased 10 acres of wooded land and a Husqvarna 570. I want to buy the best chain for the money. How would you rate these 4? Sthil- Oregon- Carlton and Forester. Also, what does the gauge size (o.o50 vs 0.063) refer to and full vs half chisel?

stihlman441

I use only Stihl and Carlton brand chain and find them both great in wear and price,i get which one is the cheapest at the time.In 3/8 Stihl recomment 13/64 file and Carlton 7/32.In australia all Stilh gear in 3/8 is all .063 gauge so thats what we use.
Semi chisel will stay sharp longer and is good in dirty wood.
Chisel is farster but only use in clean wood.

Stihl semi chisel is RCM 3/8 .063 is 36RMC
chisel is RSC 3/8 .063 is 36RSC

Carlton semi chisel is EP 3/8 .063 is A3EP
chisel is LM 3/8 .063 is A3LM

I think Forester is made by Carlton

Hope this helps

PaulSmithton

I have never used stihl chain, only the Oregon brands, ie Windsor, Carlton even Sabre earlier in the piece before they shut it down [Was owned by Homelite then Deere]

Found them all good, i dont have a fav. got to keep them all sharp, tensioned and oiled.

.050 // .063 is the width that goes in the bar groove

Husky is mainly .058, like yours, but some other models Huskys are .050 in .325

Full/Half chisel is the tooth, full cuts better, haslf is easier to sharpen

NevC

Are these recommendations for both green and dry wood?

Do you sharpen with chains with standard angles?

What would you use on dry red gum?
I have been told by one cutter to use standard chain sharpened to 30 deg as it stays sharper longer and does not powder the wood as much which causes the filter to clog quicker.
I have standard, full and half chip chains.

Nev

stihlman441

On ya dry redgum use a semi chisel chain and stick with the standard 30 deg top plate angle,and bars 36'' and bigger better with a full skip chain.

Man of God

What would be a good aggressive chain for my 24" Husky 570? I'm looking at Oregon 72LGX 84 for $14. a pc. How aggressive is it and how's the price?

KevinE

I'm running the same bar as you are on your 570 on my 7901, with carlton semi chisel chain (.058 - 3/8); I choose semi chisel because this saw gets used to cut dirty wood quite often. I've run it with full chisel chain & through a 20" stump the only real difference I can detect between semi chisel & full chisel is that the full chisel is smother, as it pulls the bar through the cut. Whereas the semi chisel tends to push back out of the cut, albeit fractionally, pushing the saw towards me. It just means I have to work a little harder with the semi chisel chain than I would with the full chisel, but the chain stays sharp a lot longer on the semi chisel over the full chisel IMO.

If you're only going to cut clean timber, then I'd go for the full chisel. But if you're going to cut any dirty stuff, I'd go the semi chisel.

I find these chains very aggressive if kept sharp. I guess it depends on what's driving it.

$14 a chain!!! are you serious? I get mine at a good price for here (Aust) & I pay twice that per unit.

Eric Frei

I'm a one eyed semi chisel Stihl fan.

__________________

Drouin Tree Service

Im like Ekka semi chisel,On the big saws it's chisel semi skip less to sharpen.

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Drouin Tree Services | Excavator Hire - Drouin and SE Gippsland | Landclearing Melbourne

Man of God

The more I read, the more my ignorance is revealed! Please explain chisel vs semi chisel? Is it that there are half as many cutters with a space in between, or that the shape of the cutter is different?(an up close picture of each would probably settle it) Does semi chisel and semi skip mean the same or something different? (re: a_lopa) Another stupid question: What is considered dirty vs clean wood?
I apologize for how basic my questions are, but I've never had experienced lumberjacks or loggers give me advice in the 5 or 6 yrs since I moved out to the Florida country and started using chainsaws regularly. Is there a good book I should read to instruct me in these basic concepts? I've been hands on in construction all my life (56 yrs) but hardly ever dealing with chainsaws until recently.
Here are the markings stamped on my bar: RSN 24/60 050/1 3 3/8 84DL 92640 GX Made in Canada. Just so I can be sure that the 25 Oregon 72LGX 84 I want to buy for $370 are the right chains.
Is my chain gauge .050? The saw manual has an ANSI chart showing .058 for 24" with 84 drive links.
By the way, here is the ebay link with 25 of them for $14 each and $20 shipping: http://cgi.ebay.com/Husqvarna-24-Chisel-Chains-72LGX84-Twenty-Five-350-/280594100681?_trksid=p3286.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8904599851783523467#ht_2571wt_804

NevC

What is the consensus on tungsten tip chains?
My mate is dead set keen to get one for wood cutting on his property. His reason for this is the local fire brigade use tungsten tip chains for cutting dirty wood at fires and this has impressed him greatly.
Wouldn't the tips outlast the chain? Also, how easy is it to knock a tooth of, maybe loose it, and then replace it?

Done it

Absolute waste of money as far as I'm concerned. Might be ok for people that don't have to pay for them.

Way too expensive and they don't stay sharp long. Then you have to get them sharpened or buy the right stuff yourself. Just stick with semi chisel.

Man of God

Hi Done it. I'd like to get a reply to my post #10 on this thread. Could you oblige?

Done it

And the teeth will break off easy if you hit a nail or something.

Sorry Man, I can't help you much I only use 063. We don't use 050 here.

I've never heard of that chain but it looks ok, and as far as I can see it should be right to fit that bar. Give them a ring or ask on the ebay question thing, I'm pretty sure they'll be happy to confirm it for you for $370.

KevinE

Don't bid, your saw came stock with an .058 gauge bar. The chains on offer are for smaller saws. Your saw takes 3/8 high profile chain. The chains on offer are 3/8 low profile. Go to a shop that sells chain & ask them to show you both side by side & the difference will be instantly obvious.

Just use the forum search function for explanations of chisel/semi chisel (tooth/cutter shape) & full comp/semi skip/full skip (number of cutters on the chain)

Hope that helps?

Cheers!

KevinE

And the dust from sharpening them is a carcinogen

Man of God

Kevin. What about the numbers stamped on my bar listed on my post #10 ? It does have 050 in there!

KevinE

Mate, I have no idea what those numbers mean, just go to the chainsaw shop with your current chain & ask to see both 3/8 H/P & 3/8 L/P side by side, you'll know on the spot which chain fits your bar. .050 L/P & .058 H/P are very, very obviously different. Even just show your chain to the guy in the shop & he will tell you there & then what it is.

Man of God

Thanks.

Ontario Tree Toad

Hello MOG,
To help answer your question check out this website: http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdfs/SawChainSelection.pdf

It will shed some light on your chain classification question. I only use STIHL chains. That is just me. I found them to be made of good steel, hold an edge very well, sharpen nicely, great for bar lubrication and pretty much - they work for me so why change.
Hope this helps buddy, cheers.

Hydro Guy

The best from experience is Sthil and Huskavarna.

SawTroll

Stihl or Oregon - Husky chain is rebranded Oregon.

I mostly use chisel chain here (LP and RSC) - but conditions vary!

Jagielka

Here are the markings stamped on my bar: RSN 24/60 050/1 3 3/8 84DL 92640 GX Made in Canada.


24/60 means bar length 24 inches or 60 centermeters

050/1 3 means the width of the guide gauge .050 of an inch or 1.3 mm

3/8 is the pitch of the chain needed

84dl the leangth of the chain the drive links required to go around the bar and sprocket

92640 GX im not sure what that means might be a part or serial number

Man of God

Thank you Jagielka.