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| | #1 |
| I'm new here so be nice Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 3
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Thanks for allowing me to enjoy this website it is loaded with info. I have a small problem that maybe someone would be good enough to help me with. I have a 10 year old 371xp with only about 20 hours on it . I run an 18 inch oregon powermatch bar and 73lg chain despite me cleaning the saw and adjusting the oil volume screw i can't seem to get this bugger to oil. Ihave never used anything but new clean bar oil in this. Can anyone help, thanks in advance.
Last edited by JayD; 7th February 2010 at 08:51 AM. Reason: moved to apropriate forum |
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| | #2 |
| Admin - Dip Arb & Hort & Seldom Wrong Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 9,752
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Could be a hole in the line, blocked etc. Could be the pump is stuffed too, or whatever drives it, like with Stihls the worm or the steel arm that the drum spins is often broken. Sounds like a strip it down to me.
__________________ TAS Training & Assessment Services| Arb and Hort Training available here Free Online Tree Value Calculator by TreeWorld Free Online TPZ and SRZ AS4970-2009 Calculator by TreeWorld Free Online Tree Surface Area and Tree Volume Calculator by TreeWorld ![]() Free Tree and Green Industry Deep Link Directory ... Yes, I also SEO (Optimize) and build websites that fly high in Google Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping | Stump Grinding Brisbane Brisbane - Gold Coast Consulting Arborist, Tree and Arborist Reports | Project Arborist ![]() |
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| | #3 |
| Moderator - Sponsor Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Sydney
Posts: 1,432
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Another alternative before you pull it down is to drain out the oil in the tank and replace with petrol without the bar on and start and run it being aware petrol is now, if it clears the blockage, seeping out then drain petrol and refill with oil and check, it only takes a couple of minutes. or if you had the clutch hub off you did not re align the oiler pick up wire with the notch on the hub...
__________________ ![]() Level 4 Arborist |
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| | #4 |
| Sappling Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Picton NSW, Australia
Posts: 18
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Hi Safeguy, I agree with Ekka I just had a saw with what sounds to be the same problem. I stripped it down cleaned the whole thing out drained the oil flushed the lines and still could not find anything that was causing the problem. I ended up taking it back to the dealer and after some time looking at the saw found a small hole about the side of a pin prick in the pick-up line. They are not expensive to replace if this is the case just a real pain to remove and re-install because of the moulded case. Thats my best guess from what you have told me hope it help and good luck I also agree with you in that the information that this site provides is great so thanks to all that make it possible. |
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| | #5 |
| Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: North of Sebringville, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,047
| Need Help with Sthil MS 210 Auto Oiler Stihl MS 290 Not oiling Here is a couple links, that you can read up on, about the same problem that you are going through. Hope these links will help you. If not, give a holler, and we will see if we can help you out. Take care. Bruce.
__________________ McCulloch chain saws 1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's, 2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener, 1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver 2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10 Stihl chain saws 2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084, Strunk chain saws 1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder). |
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| | #6 |
| I'm new here so be nice Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 3
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Hello all sorry for the delay in getting back to you, i just got my 371 back from the dealer that had the oil problem he showed me the old oil drive gear it was broke put a new one on in front of me it only took a couple of minutes and afew bucks and now oils terrific!! He said it is a somewhat common problem and showed me that the part is only made out of plastic. I do however have a new question to ask all the smarter saw guys than me out there I currently run stihl ultra synthetic two cycle oil in my saws mixed with 93 octane gasoline that the fuel dealer is quite proud of due to the fact that he says there is no alcohol/ethenol in. I mix 2.5 gallons at a time and use it within 3 to 5 weeks, Imet aguy the other day who uses the same two cycle oil I use but is running Sunoco 260 gt racing fuel which he says gives his saws more power keeps operating temps lower and extends shelf life of fuel mix up to six months! I don't always get through my own gas mix in 3-5 weeks and just dump whats left in our old John Deere B farm tractor. I wouldn't mind spending the extra money for the Sunoco if I would have all the advantages that fellow says I would have, I asked my saw dealer friend about it he said he thought it would probebly keep operating temps down but thought that I would not notice an increase in power due to the fact that saws are built to run on 89 octane gas. I just wondered what all you guys thought out there. Most of my saws are older 10years + ecept for a ms 660, 361, 200, and husky 346. My other saws are Husky 371, 262,254,44, and a Stihl MS 360, & 260. Any input would be greatly appriciated. Thanks again for a terrific website!!
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| | #7 |
| Over mature heritage tree Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: On the slopes of Mt Hood
Posts: 736
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Kind of off-topic here... Racing gas is not going to do much for the low compression engines in chainsaws. Race gas is designed for high compression engines that have a really advanced ignition system, or in the case of airplanes, for use at high altitude (100LL high octane AvGas). Non-ethanol 93 octane gas should run just fine on your saws. They were designed to run mid-grade US gas.
__________________ Stay thirsty my friends... ![]() Work saws, all modified Stihls: 310, 4 x 026 / 3 x 361 / 1 x 044 / 066 I ship saws down under... PM me if interested. ![]() |
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