Chain drags in bar

thebaz

Hope this is not a dumb question.
I have a problem when cutting messmate with my Stihl saws.
The chain starts to drag and sometimes even lock up. I think that the problem is that the little holes in the drive link fill up with bark and tighten in the bar making the chain drag. If I clean the holes out, (the bark really jams in there), the chain is fine again. Is the problem the type of chain, or am I doing something wrong?

Baz

Eric Frei

Yeah some trees are a real bugger for that, and you are right, you have to push that little wad out of the hole in the link.

Things I have done to overcome it other than making sure the oiler is up to max is keep the revs high during the cut, make sure between cuts you rev the saw with brake off and watch oil spit off the tip of the bar (usually against something like a log etc).

Some stringybarks here are real bad for that, drive you nuts.

Also, I found that the cheaper farmboss bars are worse than the pro series bars.

Also watch that nose roller, they get jammed too.

If I do have to stop and pop those little wads out I drown the chain and bar groove with WD40, I just chuck a can of WD40 into the shopping basket these days going through Woolies etc, same with Round-up style stuff to kill tree stumps.

__________________

thebaz

Thanks EKKA for your words of wisdom. Are the chains with no hole in the drive link any better for this type of wood?
I found that if I give the saw a bit of free spinning between cuts it doesn't jam up completely, but you can still feel it dragging till you clean the holes.
Baz

Eric Frei

I only use Stihl chain, it's got holes.

I dont do that many stringybarks for it to be a problem though, do a stack of palms though.

__________________

dov

The bark in those things is a ####. I've been using chain without the holes, but I still give the saw a rev every now and then on some trees to clear everything out.

thebaz

Does having no hole in the drive link stop the chain dragging? What is the downside to a chain with no holes?
Baz

Gypo Logger

The jamming could be wood related, although a new B&C does this at times. Id, run the chain slightly looser till the chain marries the bar.
Gypo

thebaz

The Bar and chain have done enough work now for them to be worn in and I seem to have this problem with all my saws in this kind of timber. I find the only thing I can do at this stage is keep pulling the saw from the cut and trying to free the chain by revving the saw with no load, then re-entering the cut. When it get too bad remove the chain and clean each drive link hole with a nail. Slow going. Is there a better way of dealing with this or is it just a part of cutting messmate?
Baz

dcarter

May want to check your chain for burrs on the drive links. If you have thrown chain alot you can develop burrs there or links that aren't aligned true with the others. Burrs can be filed down. You may be able to straighten the links but you need to find out what's causing this. You'll wear the bar out if you run chain that's screwed up, hangs in the groove, doesn't throw oil properly, wears new grooves in bar, etc. Good luck, Mike

thebaz

The chain runs perfectly when it has all the holes in the drive links clear.
It is only when cutting Eucalyptus messmate that the chain starts to drag in the bar. The stringy bark seems to embed itself in the holes in the drive links to the point where it can actually stop the chain from spinning at all.
The saw has never thrown a chain and is new enough for the bar and chain to be still have plenty of life left and has done enough hours to be totally run in.
I am hoping for a way of compensating for what appears to be a very frustrating timber to cut.
Baz