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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Sappling Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Canandaigua New York
Posts: 9
| Hey does anyone use a bar rail closer like this one? And do they work Any input would be great Bailey's - WoodsmanPRO Chain Saw Bar Rail Closer |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Live Oak Florida home of the crapiest trees you will ever see.
Posts: 2,629
| I've never used one but I'm gonna get one.
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Mature tree Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: hiding
Posts: 386
| i dont use one but they must save on the entire saw, sloppy bar=slop on drivers=extreme wear on sprocket=loss of power. plus the sloppy bar as you prob know makes it difficult for teeth to dig in and cut cause the bar is wider than chain. will those things work on the tips too? hell its only half the cost of a new bar 20". worth a review. i dont know about you but ive spent alot more on crappier stuff. ex.{showtime knive set.} they suck and they dont shapen easy. i can get a better edge on my splitting mal. |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| The Tree World Bandit Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Lancaster, Ca
Posts: 1,254
| It's only designed to true up the straight edge of the bar Shea... Not the tip, and not the angled part towards the rear of the bar. (there's some fine print on the pictures there, I had to squint to make it out, but it mentions that stuff)
__________________ Ken Fessia I.T.S.A. Tree Service (661) 916-4703 |
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Troms, North Norway
Posts: 63
| I have never used one, and probably never will. From what I have read they seem to work great, but the results are short-lived......... ![]() If I was a collector, and had lots of old saws with worn bars, I might think differently. Last edited by SawTroll : 21st January 2008 at 04:50 AM. |
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| | #8 (permalink) |
| Mature tree Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Georgia, USA
Posts: 262
| I've never used one but did order one about 4 days ago. With the price of new bars it should pay for itself quickly.
__________________ ISA Certified Arborist |
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Live Oak Florida home of the crapiest trees you will ever see.
Posts: 2,629
| the only thing i really do with my bars is clean and re dress them.
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| Over mature heritage tree Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 569
| I have one. It's quite impressive. It's not a tool that gets used much, but at the same time it's a tool that will last forever if you don't let it rust out. You can get hurt with one, and should be careful. I almost hate describing it in detail, as a piece of video could show it in seconds. I don't actually have any video of it. Take the bar off the saw. Put the bar in a vise. File off the burrs, the entire length from both sides. As you can see from the picture, that says how it works, a threaded lever moves an adjustable bearing toward a stationary bearing. Ya gotta be careful to tension it to the bar gently, give a pull from one end to the other. Fit your chain in to check. Give the threaded lever a quarter turn, give a pull from one end to the other. Fit your chain in to check. Give the threaded lever a quarter turn, give a pull from one end to the other. Fit your chain in to check. If you feel the chains driver links JUST START to grab inside the bar rail, STOP. Trust me. One more 'quarter turn, give a pull from one end to the other' and you'll close the rail too much. They don't sell a rail opening tool, but to let you know, it's called a screwdriver and a hammer and a bunch of unnecessary time trying to open it back up so you can get your chain in. Fip bar, repeat. You only would use the bar rail closer when you can flop your chain left/right, meaning the normally vertical-sided bar groove is splayed more like a V. You're squeezing the top rails inward so your chain doesn't flop and cut curves. This is not a fix for an old worn bar, but it'll extend the life, get you through until your new bar comes in. I do it midlife of the bar during a complete dressing session as it only takes a minute. It does do what it does really well, I must say. Affordable, too. ![]() |
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| | #11 (permalink) | |
| Sappling Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 7
| Quote:
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| | #12 (permalink) | |
| Over mature heritage tree Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 569
| Quote:
If your bar is so worn that your driver links won't stand up straight, you need a bar replacement for sure. The rail closer gets used more on larger bars than on the smaller ones. The titanium bars never need their rails touched as they don't wear quite at all like steel bars, the driver links do the wearing. It's a fun tool to use, really amazing how you can squeeze the rails of a bar together, a fraction of a millimeter at a time, perfectly evenly, the entire length of the bar. Really remarkable. | |
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| | #13 (permalink) |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Urbana, IL,usa
Posts: 76
| I've been using one for 18yrs. It does help keep the rails tight against on the drivelinks, but is only temporary. Helps get extra life out of worn bars though! |
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