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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Cruisin' Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Lincs/Leeds England
Posts: 66
| bought an 019T last year 2nd hand from the states. runs nice, but the bar it came with was 16inch, paintless with no oil hole and the two chains, although sharp are of course 16inch, and the sprocket is screwed, like seriously. never seen one quite so worn. chain i think is a 050 guage 3/5 pico LP jobbie so what bar and chain and sprocket should I replace with. do i stick with 3.8? do i go .325 like i have on my 026? is 12" enough for a climbing saw? how many tooth sprocket? i figured a .325 setup with an extra tooth on the sprocket would speed up the cutting on what is quite a low powered saw especially compared to a 200t or the like, but is there a disadvantage to this setup? In no immediate hurry since i cant officially use the saw, but I hate to have a saw out of action. |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Fly'n Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Parramatta. nsw. Australia.
Posts: 168
| I didn't like the 019t at all, I got rid of mine. If you are going to keep it, 325 chain is no good on small saws, just use 050, 3/8". A 12" bar for a 019t is best, but you can go 14" depending on the chain. I use GB bars & Stihl chain, but I don't know what is available where you are so I'd say stick with Stihl, also you can use Oregon. ![]() OregonŽ Saw Chain, Bar and Sprocket Selector Guide |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| The Tree World Bandit Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Lancaster, Ca
Posts: 1,112
| I'd suggest a 14" 050 stihl lightweight bar, and 3/8 picco micro chain. I don't even like the .325 on my 028. But like Done It says, I think the 3/8 pm provides for a faster cleaner cut with the smaller saws. I think the 16" bar I have for my 200T is excessive, but the 14" works very nicely. The "lightweight" bar has a type of insert with makes it 30% lighter. This translates into a better balance for the saw. It's possible that the sprocket's worn out because the guy found 3/8 picco LP to be a good match for that saw. Or, I suppose because he was tryin too hard to make the 16" bar work with that saw. About the screwy 16" bar though... ya know, I bought my ms200T off ebay, and it came with a brand new 16" bar and chain. It seemed to me that the guy might have either gotten a 16" bar somewhere and never cared to use it with his saw, or that he picked it up cheap somewhere, wanted to sell the saw "with a bar", and so he was able to get rid of it at the same time. Seems to me that if you absolutely have to have bigger than a 14" bar, ya should probably jump up a little in saw size too. Just my 2c ![]()
__________________ Ken Fessia I.T.S.A. Tree Service (661) 916-4703 |
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Tree World Icon Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Live Oak Florida home of the crapiest trees you will ever see.
Posts: 2,188
| As a pretty good gudeline if the saw is less than 40cc 14" is ideal,16" is pushing it but will work.I actually changed my 141 from 3/8 lopro to 325.It hasn't slowed it down any but then again it isn't a stihl. ![]()
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| | #6 (permalink) | |
| Fly'n Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Parramatta. nsw. Australia.
Posts: 168
| Quote:
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| | #8 (permalink) |
| Cruisin' Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Lincs/Leeds England
Posts: 66
| yeah leeds aint bad at all, but I shall only be here for another few weeks. Then with uni over I shall be heading back to deepest darkest Lincolnshire where I reckon Ive got a job lined up. It's all good... except for the having to start paying off the 16 grand of student loan I've accumulated ![]() |
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| | #9 (permalink) | |
| Fly'n Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Parramatta. nsw. Australia.
Posts: 168
| Quote:
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| | #10 (permalink) | |
| Cruisin' Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Lincs/Leeds England
Posts: 66
| Quote:
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