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| | #1 |
| Sappling Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 5
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New here and sorta new at milling too. I am running an old Husqvarna Rancher 61 (about a 1982 year) on a horizontal chainsaw mill. I am having trouble keeping it running in that position on the mill after a couple of passes. It will die and not re-start without turning it back up right and several pulls. It runs great the first couple passes. Has anyone had this experience with their chainsaw milling? I order all new gaskets, metering valve, etc for the carb. I rebuilt it and no change. I am not sure if it is the coil, because it will restart hot after turning it back into the vertical position and that is after several trys to get it started. Hate to go another route of milling because when it runs, it mills out some real nice boards. This is a real nice mill is on a track, wish I had some pics to post. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Doug |
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| | #2 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: ohio, USA
Posts: 151
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I would say its definately fuel related.I would check the tanks internal vent tube for leaks or try a different carb.good luck
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| | #3 |
| Sappling Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 5
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I would say it is fuel related also. I also put a new gas cap on to make sure it holds pressure and it does. It has good fuel pressure when I pull the line off the carb, so I know it is getting fuel. I have checked this several times when it won't crank to be sure it is getting fuel. I do not know of any internal tank vent tube on it. It only has the fuel line going in the tank, is this what you are talking about? If so, this line is almost new and fuel flows through it no problem. What different kind of carb can be put on this saw? It has the Tillotson HA 163 A carb on it. The only other I see that might work on it is a Walbro WS 17 A. Which one is better? Maybe this saw is just not made to run on it's side for more than 10-15 minutes? Doug |
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| | #4 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: ohio, USA
Posts: 151
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Oh no, I meant different carb as in a second one.Maybe the carb is faulty in some way.Ive had carbs broke down multiple times,rebuilt them and just wont work right.put on a new or used carb ,and it runs like a scalded dog.The vent tube vents the tank.I am not familiar with your exact model,but alot Huskies have the vent tube inside the tank,connected near the tanks bottom to an external opening.the tube in the tank is also positioned towards the ceiling of the tank, as to be able to vent when tank is full.if this tube has puntures or holes in it ,it can cause problems.If the saw is in horizontal position rather than a vertical one, the vent tube is no longer above fuel level .therfore the tube is below fuel level (submerged)and cannot vent,causing it to starve for fuel,hold it vertical again and it breathes. I would say if its not the carb itself, then its the fuel tank asembly(vent passages and tubing )Good luck,If I can help any further ,fire away
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| | #5 |
| Semi-mature vigorous tree Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: ohio, USA
Posts: 151
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You saw in stuck on my mind.You need to figure out how the tank is supposed to vent.It is probably not venting in the horizontal position,and once you've gottenfamiliar with your set-up.If need be,you can design your own vent via the fuel cap. I E.fuel cap with a vent hole OR a fuel cap with a piece of tubing mounted through it,denpending on what position the fuel cap ends up in when in working position(top or bottom) |
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| | #6 |
| Moderator - Previously known as JayD Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: TreeWorld, Sydney Australia
Posts: 2,031
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It definately sounds like a fuel problem to me,If it only runs for a while on it's side then cuts out,But in the upright position it runs again maybe your fuel intake pipe inside the tank is positioned wrong,have a look. ![]() ![]()
__________________ Member: Australian Tree Association Join the Australian Tree Association...Have your voice heard ! Arboriculture, A life long study for some, a passing phase for others © Jeffrey J Darby 2011 |
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| | #7 |
| Sappling Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 5
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I think mine vents through the fuel cap? It has holes in the cap and a rubber flap on the inside of the cap. I drained out all the gas and cannot find any vent tube. I will give it another check when I can get back it this weekend. The pick up tube is positioned correctly and it has good fuel pressure to the carb even when it dies. If I loosen the fuel cap when running, it will die immediately. It seems to have a lot of pressure in the tank and when I take that pressure away it dies. Is this normal?? The only way I see to get another carb is a used one. These are not available new anymore that I can find. Ebay has had some parts here and there for this saw. Thanks for the input. |
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| | #8 |
| Moderator - Previously known as JayD Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: TreeWorld, Sydney Australia
Posts: 2,031
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Maybe you need to change the fuel tank cap,They have to breath and if it's not it will run for a little while and stop. If you know some one with the same saw running they could let you try there cap and see if it works? ![]() ![]()
__________________ Member: Australian Tree Association Join the Australian Tree Association...Have your voice heard ! Arboriculture, A life long study for some, a passing phase for others © Jeffrey J Darby 2011 |
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| | #9 |
| Admin - Razor sharp and independent 2 X Diploma Level 5 qualified arborist Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 12,820
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2 strokes can be a PITA when they do crap like that. Let us know what it was when you nail it.
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| | #10 |
| Moderator - Previously known as JayD Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: TreeWorld, Sydney Australia
Posts: 2,031
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I was sitting here thinking about you drama when l remembered a couple of things that happened in the past. Here's another senario I have encounted with my saws,Similer in a way, It was with my HT75 It had similer symptoms it would run for a while then stop,Most times right when you needed it to go most..finishing off a cut..aggghhhh..It turned out to be the ignition module on its way out, Like Ekka, says they can be a real ..PITA..literally. Had the same problem with a little outboard aswell it would get you out to your fishing spot and whamo! it wouldnt start at all leaving you to row in..What a pain! This engine had cracked coils casings that would hold it integrity until it got warm== Expansion of the cracks and it would short out and not start!! ![]() ![]()
__________________ Member: Australian Tree Association Join the Australian Tree Association...Have your voice heard ! Arboriculture, A life long study for some, a passing phase for others © Jeffrey J Darby 2011 |
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| | #11 |
| Admin - Razor sharp and independent 2 X Diploma Level 5 qualified arborist Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane
Posts: 12,820
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I had a carby on a 200T that had a hairline crack in the casting (Stihl fault and not picked up twice on warranty). But that just run bad when hot no matter what orientation the saw was in. We changed seal, done the carby bla bla bla in the end I bought a new carby from USA bolted it on and runs like a dream.
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| | #12 |
| Sappling Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 5
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I had thought about the module trying to go out and even the coil. I will have to get the motor hot again and then when it dies, check how good the fire is. It may have sorry fire at that point. I will recheck the carb for any cracks, but i did not see anything outstanding, but I was not looking for any either. I love this saw and hate to put out a grand to replace it. It has served well since '82 with no replacement parts other than plugs, chains and bars. I have a 345 that is a great running little saw. There is a little difference from the 345's made around 2004 (mine) to the ones they sell now. |
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| | #13 |
| Sappling Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 5
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Ok, I have a firing problem. It cranked right up, then died after about 15 seconds. Tried and tried to crank it, nope!!!! Pulled the plug and connected it back to the wire and no fire to the plug. Tried 3 more different plugs and no fire. I made sure it had a good ground to the head also. Got brave and stuck the little finger in the plug boot and NO OUCH!!! I also disconnected the off switch to be sure it was not playing a part in this problem. Now comes the hard part, is it the coil or module???? Coil is cheaper to start with if I want to do parts swapping until it works. What do you guys think. |
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| | #14 |
| Part of the Furniture Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: orlando,fl
Posts: 4,977
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your coil is bad,replace it,might as well replace the stop switch and spark plug while your at it,for a plug i recomend a bosch ws7f.
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| | #15 |
| Veteran Heritage Status Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: North of Sebringville, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,176
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I know that this is December, but did you get your Chain Saw Fixed, and is it working good? Thanks. Bruce.
__________________ McCulloch chain saws 1- Pro Mac 60, 1- Pro Mac 700, 2- Mac 10-10 Automatic's, 2- Mini Mac 30's, 2- Mac 110's, 2- Mini Mac 35's, 1- Mac 140 with Automatic Chain Sharpener, 1- Pro Mac 10-10, 1- Mac Cat, 2- Eager Beaver 2.0's, 1- Mac 1-10 Stihl chain saws 2- 044's, 2- 034's, 2- 024's, 1- 064, 1- 084, Strunk chain saws 1- Busy Beaver, 1- SpeeDemon Special Stand Back, I Have A Very Extreme Case of CAD (Chain Saw Addiction Disorder). |
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