Soil subsidence and trees

Oldtimer · 23rd July 2007, 10:09 AM

There is a whole industry in the US dedicated to the "leveling " of house foundations. Some of the houses were built on very plastic clay soils with high shrink and swell capacity due to seasonal variation in the amount of moisture on the soil. So foundation cracks or the walls cracks on the house are common. My house is in a subdivision with caves all over, there are many houses that show the signs. Also, There is one that has a tree actually touching the foundation of the garage and there is no obvious indication of damage. ( the tree is Soooo close to the house that they actually cut a small portion ( about 2 ft by long by 1 ft wide) of the roof overhang to allow the tree to pass thru it. ( I will take a photo later for you to see it).
Those cracks on the photo that Ekka posted are nothing compared to some of the nasty ones we regularly see around here. They have a pier system that they pressure inject below the foundations to repair some of the damage but most of the soils around here are marginal for the type of construction used by local builders. Good topic!

Roller · 9th September 2007, 03:10 AM

building+clay soil+tree+fell.....!!

Ekka · 9th September 2007, 03:26 AM

Roller

This is big business in UK, I see many consultants offering services for trees in proximity to houses, subsidence etc. Some offer to gather evidence to remove liability for tree owners whilst others the opposite.

If you have any reference material it would be great.

Roller · 9th September 2007, 05:28 AM

UK Law Case Summary

Delaware Mansions Ltd and another v. Westminster City Council.
Court of Appeal, July 1999. Beldam, Thorpe and Pill LJJ.
This case involved damage to a property by tree roots.
In 1989 structural engineers reported that damage had occurred to some blocks of flats and that a Plane tree, which was owned by Westminster City Council, was responsible for the damage. The engineers recommended underpinning of the flats or removal of the tree. The council refused to remove the tree.

The flats were sold in June 1990 to the second appellant company for one pound. The first appellant company was formed, and owned, by the tenants to provide maintenance and service to the flats.

These companies were seeking damages from Westminster City Council for the cost of the remedial works carried out to repair the foundations of the flats, and which cost some ?570,735 pounds. However, their claim was dismissed on the grounds that they could not claim for the damages because the damage had occurred before they had become the new owners of the flats.

The plaintiffs appealed and won. During his judgement, Pill LJ said

"Thus, where there is a continuing nuisance, the owner is entitled to a declaration, to abate the nuisance, to damages for physical injury and to an injunction".

And,

"If the council had agreed to remove the tree when asked, the damages would have been very small. In the circumstances, which are probably unusual, the fact that the nuisance existed before the second appellant became the owner is irrelevant".

Ekka · 9th September 2007, 12:37 PM

And hence it should be.

Frankly, if something in your property does damage to mine, then you pay.

Fair and simple.

You want a tree, then ensure it does not trespass either above or below the ground.

Installation of an adequate root barrier would also have prevented the problem. If the tree owner thinks it unreasonable to fork out say $10,000 for an engineered suitable concrete permanent root barrier then how could they consider it fair and reasonable for the victim to fork out much more than that?

Thanks Roller

Roller · 9th September 2007, 02:02 PM

The trouble over here Ekka , some of the street trees here are over 200 years old, big old London Planes, root barriers won't work on them, so the only option is the chop, and that means even if a building has no signs of subsidence at all. Fair enough prehaps, I don't know the answer, sit and wait , only act when you're starring at 1'' wide cracks running down the wall!

I know one thing every single consultant when presented with clay soil and a tree within influeincing distance reccomends a TD

Roller · 9th September 2007, 02:16 PM

chech this firm out , what on earth do they charge!

Trees get criminal treatment - Press Release - Press and Communications - Newcastle University

Sean Freeman · 9th September 2007, 04:46 PM

We have had a similar DNA ID service available here following research at Melb Uni, though that was back in 2005, not sure if it is still being done there, was costly $500-$900 starting price (I think from memory...please don't get mad Melb Uni if thats wrong

)

Steve, if you're faced with a situation over there when you need other practical options than the removal valuable (some would say priceless!) vet trees try either Cheshire Woodlands Poynton, or the ArborCentre in Bath they are both excellent consutancy firms where the emphasis is the real situation between tree and environment rather than any prejudicial starting point.

Ekka · 9th September 2007, 06:52 PM

If the trees were there before the building then the building should be engineered strong enough to withstand the subsidence ... but in saying that maybe when the tree and building were on the scene the tree was much smaller.

Problem here in Australia is insurance companies do not pay out on subsidence. It comes out of your pocket to underpin a house.

bob w · 17th December 2007, 11:42 PM

Quote:

I thought I had posted this before but reading back through couldn't find it so apologies if you've seen it before, its from about 7yrs ago and by Bob Wulkowicz.

Thanks for the reference and for remembering some of my mutterings.

Heres another URL...

http://users.rcn.com/bobw.enteract/UKSubsidence2.2.html

Bob W.

Ekka · 18th December 2007, 01:28 AM

Hi Bob and welcome.

I read it all.

In Brisbane here we are in a pretty bad shape from drought.

Our dams for 2million people are down to 20%, they were down to 16% but recent rain had a small top up.

SEQWater - Dam Operations & Maintenance

Problem here is poor engineering which didn't consider clay soils and poor attitudes to trees and the species selection and location has led to lots of houses cracking.

The traditional rainfall was around 1200mm a year. I suppose the average in drought is 500mm. However it has been a couple of years of below average rain. That coupled with the fact that our primary dams for water are located to the west which is a lower rainfall area anyway.

Why do they build dams in low rainfall areas I hear you ask?

Because this is the smart state .... just having a dig.

I came from Adelaide in South Australia, average rainfall 550mm, in drought maybe 250mm, and they're sitting on 79% capacity.

On this map you just click the city and get the dam levels.
H2Overview - Dam level Map

So, it's about managing resources, collecting water where it rains, and being able to water. Due to water restrictions trees/gardens only allowed bucket watering certain times.

So you can imagine, drought, landscape neglect, houses cracking, engineers and geotechs loving it and under pinners booming. Pretty hard to stand up against an engineers report especially when they pull out some standard we dont have!

Now during all of this not many trees died really, sure a few did but not like say the beetle kills in USA or Dutch Elm Disease etc.

Anyway, the things I noticed here was no paths around houses and vegetation right up to the walls. Also a termite problem. Houses built up to late 70's didn't have to get the roof water into a drain, most just dump it straight out the down pipe onto the lawn/garden etc.

No-one really gave much thought to drought, heck it rains all year around and mainly in summer, so soil is always damp and dams always trickle filled.

The immediate solution for most people was installing rainwater tanks for roof run off. I did this to, I collect 3500 litres from 20mm of rain, I use this to top up the pool. State govt gives you $1000 as incentive to put in a tank greater than 3000 litres. Water is the answer, as you say rehydration.

Other thing is mulching, reducing that sun exposure.

Sean Freeman · 18th December 2007, 01:30 AM

Hello Bob and welcome

I was impressed with that article back in 2001 when I first read it and it still impresses me today.
You wouldn't be surprised I suppose to know that there are still a great many who believe and propogate the idea that trees are devilish organisms wantanly sucking water from our parched soils causing millioins of $$'s of damage to valuable realestate....
ah well you can tell a mug, just can't tell them much

azrael · 18th December 2007, 02:40 PM

Hi Bob...welcome
Good article .... rationale impressive ...and so eloquently put.
I can see you are passionate and committed to care of trees for their enduring landscape contribution.
I

TOO.
Azrael

Oldtimer · 18th December 2007, 03:05 PM

So far I have learned a lot from this discussion as usual. Here is a more stuff to add to the discussion. I have a fairly large tree about 10 feet from the side of the house. ( About 70 feet tall and 2 feet dbh). The tree was definitely there before they built the house. Recently I have noticed a small crack along the brick face on the side of the house ( the brick wall is not structural but ornamental mostly). Anyway I personally do not care about the cracks or the tree being there since it is my favorite tree for Recreational Climbs and it shades a large portion of the house in the hot Texas Summers. BUT what would happen in a few years when I will try to sell my house and the buyer decides that the tree must go and the foundation or wall re-leveled???? I can always tell the buyer to take a hike right!

Should I even try to excavate a barrier trench along the wall and try to install a Barrier to the roots? Is it even worth the efforts or the cost involved?? The roots are now completely under most of the foundation for the house so other than killing the tree the damage is slowly going on as the tree looks for water from the sewer lines under the house foundation. So far there is not obvious impact on the drainage pipes but the roots feeders will get there eventually. I will not hold anyone liable for your opinions so fire away.

Options anyone?????

By the way a few houses down from mine there is another house and that one has a tree that is actually touching the foundation and they cut a small piece in the roof line for the tree to pass by. That is cool! I will try to get a photo but there is not obvious damage to their foundation so far.

Ekka · 18th December 2007, 11:20 PM

It really depends on a few factors from an engineering point of view.

1/ Soil type, you need to know what you got.

2/ Engineered foundation, what have you got.

3/ Structure of the house. Our house is brick veneer, common here. The strength of the house is in the timber frame and the masonary or brick is a facade to a degree. It bears no loads.

4/ Type of tree.

Most people here when they buy a house get a building inspection, your house would be picked up for the tree and the wall. Even if the wall were repaired so it was unnoticeable the builders report would likely nail the tree anyway. But that's here, not where you are.

You need to get a pic of that crack ... close and distance, if need be trace the crack in MS paint etc so we can see it.

Builders can come out and check the levels with laser, they'll know where it's upheaval or subsidence.

Then it's suggested a soil test to know what you exactly have. Then it's also suggested the soil test is also done opposite side of house to a non affected area as a "control" hole. Check and compare for moisture and plasticity/strength.

Could be as easy as watering.

The root barrier should be about 3' away from the house too, but not done with backhoe or trencher. Need a clean cut, some use water cutters but there are machines similar to a concrete cutter where a rotating blade cuts a clean slot.

Oldtimer · 19th December 2007, 02:21 PM

"The root barrier should be about 3' away from the house too, but not done with backhoe or trencher. Need a clean cut, some use water cutters but there are machines similar to a concrete cutter where a rotating blade cuts a clean slot" said Eric.

I think that if we were to dig that close to the tree and remove all the roots to place the root barrier I am afraid that a couple of things would take place.

First the amount of damage to the root system will devastate the tree so may as well remove it and be done with it.

Second I am afraid that disturbing that much soil on one side of the tree will leave it unbalanced without strong root support on that side and easier to tip over in a strong wind storm either falling in top of the house or pulling in the other direction away from mine and into the neighbors yard. So in my view it is not a very simple solution either way for the owner of the house or for the tree.

The final alternative (cross the fingers here). Find a buyer that likes trees as much as I do and do not think that the damage to the brick veneer is a big deal and they will sign up in the dotted line without problems and hand over the check. ($250K more or less but who is counting!).
The way properties are changing hands in this city it could be possible!
Who knows.

I will try to post a photo of the tree. The crack on the brick is too small to see in a photo. It kind of follows along the grout used to keep the bricks together so it can be easily fill-in with a similar color material and very few people would even notice it. (tricky eh!)

The tree is a Cedar Elm (Ulmus crassifolia)
COMMENTS from Google search:
Found growing beside Ashe Juniper ("cedar") in Hill Country, hence name; wood hard and heavy, knotty; often planted as shade tree; if you need a vertical tree this on is more tall than broad, each one has its own individual shape.

Thanks for all the free advise. It is nice that you guys are willing to provide this type of info and long distance consultation. Thanks

9th September 2007, 03:10 AM	#27 (permalink)
Roller Fly'n Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Suffolk UK Posts: 190	Re: Soil subsidence and trees building+clay soil+tree+fell.....!!

9th September 2007, 03:26 AM	#28 (permalink)
Ekka Eric Frei Administrator - Brisbane L5 (Dip) Hort Cert III Arb + some Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane Posts: 5,669	Re: Soil subsidence and trees Roller This is big business in UK, I see many consultants offering services for trees in proximity to houses, subsidence etc. Some offer to gather evidence to remove liability for tree owners whilst others the opposite. If you have any reference material it would be great. __________________ Remember to use the "search" function, if you have answers/questions post them so everyone can benefit. Free Tree and Green Industry Link Directory Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping Brisbane Tree Care, Consultations and Arborist Reports Forum Sponsors

9th September 2007, 05:28 AM	#29 (permalink)
Roller Fly'n Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Suffolk UK Posts: 190	Re: Soil subsidence and trees UK Law Case Summary Delaware Mansions Ltd and another v. Westminster City Council. Court of Appeal, July 1999. Beldam, Thorpe and Pill LJJ. This case involved damage to a property by tree roots. In 1989 structural engineers reported that damage had occurred to some blocks of flats and that a Plane tree, which was owned by Westminster City Council, was responsible for the damage. The engineers recommended underpinning of the flats or removal of the tree. The council refused to remove the tree. The flats were sold in June 1990 to the second appellant company for one pound. The first appellant company was formed, and owned, by the tenants to provide maintenance and service to the flats. These companies were seeking damages from Westminster City Council for the cost of the remedial works carried out to repair the foundations of the flats, and which cost some ?570,735 pounds. However, their claim was dismissed on the grounds that they could not claim for the damages because the damage had occurred before they had become the new owners of the flats. The plaintiffs appealed and won. During his judgement, Pill LJ said "Thus, where there is a continuing nuisance, the owner is entitled to a declaration, to abate the nuisance, to damages for physical injury and to an injunction". And, "If the council had agreed to remove the tree when asked, the damages would have been very small. In the circumstances, which are probably unusual, the fact that the nuisance existed before the second appellant became the owner is irrelevant".

9th September 2007, 12:37 PM	#30 (permalink)
Ekka Eric Frei Administrator - Brisbane L5 (Dip) Hort Cert III Arb + some Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane Posts: 5,669	Re: Soil subsidence and trees And hence it should be. Frankly, if something in your property does damage to mine, then you pay. Fair and simple. You want a tree, then ensure it does not trespass either above or below the ground. Installation of an adequate root barrier would also have prevented the problem. If the tree owner thinks it unreasonable to fork out say $10,000 for an engineered suitable concrete permanent root barrier then how could they consider it fair and reasonable for the victim to fork out much more than that? Thanks Roller __________________ Remember to use the "search" function, if you have answers/questions post them so everyone can benefit. Free Tree and Green Industry Link Directory Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping Brisbane Tree Care, Consultations and Arborist Reports Forum Sponsors

9th September 2007, 02:02 PM	#31 (permalink)
Roller Fly'n Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Suffolk UK Posts: 190	Re: Soil subsidence and trees The trouble over here Ekka , some of the street trees here are over 200 years old, big old London Planes, root barriers won't work on them, so the only option is the chop, and that means even if a building has no signs of subsidence at all. Fair enough prehaps, I don't know the answer, sit and wait , only act when you're starring at 1'' wide cracks running down the wall! I know one thing every single consultant when presented with clay soil and a tree within influeincing distance reccomends a TD

23rd July 2007, 10:09 AM	#26 (permalink)
Oldtimer Cruisin' Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Austin TX Posts: 57	There is a whole industry in the US dedicated to the "leveling " of house foundations. Some of the houses were built on very plastic clay soils with high shrink and swell capacity due to seasonal variation in the amount of moisture on the soil. So foundation cracks or the walls cracks on the house are common. My house is in a subdivision with caves all over, there are many houses that show the signs. Also, There is one that has a tree actually touching the foundation of the garage and there is no obvious indication of damage. ( the tree is Soooo close to the house that they actually cut a small portion ( about 2 ft by long by 1 ft wide) of the roof overhang to allow the tree to pass thru it. ( I will take a photo later for you to see it). Those cracks on the photo that Ekka posted are nothing compared to some of the nasty ones we regularly see around here. They have a pier system that they pressure inject below the foundations to repair some of the damage but most of the soils around here are marginal for the type of construction used by local builders. Good topic!

9th September 2007, 02:16 PM	#32 (permalink)
Roller Fly'n Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Suffolk UK Posts: 190	Re: Soil subsidence and trees chech this firm out , what on earth do they charge! Trees get criminal treatment - Press Release - Press and Communications - Newcastle University

9th September 2007, 04:46 PM	#33 (permalink)
Sean Freeman PDF King & Arborist Extrodinaire Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Townsville Nth Queensland & Gold Coast Sth Queensland Posts: 1,521	Re: Soil subsidence and trees We have had a similar DNA ID service available here following research at Melb Uni, though that was back in 2005, not sure if it is still being done there, was costly $500-$900 starting price (I think from memory...please don't get mad Melb Uni if thats wrong) Steve, if you're faced with a situation over there when you need other practical options than the removal valuable (some would say priceless!) vet trees try either Cheshire Woodlands Poynton, or the ArborCentre in Bath they are both excellent consutancy firms where the emphasis is the real situation between tree and environment rather than any prejudicial starting point. __________________ Sean Trees are poems that earth writes upon the sky, We fell them down and turn them into paper, That we may record our emptiness. - Kahlil Gibran

9th September 2007, 06:52 PM	#34 (permalink)
Ekka Eric Frei Administrator - Brisbane L5 (Dip) Hort Cert III Arb + some Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane Posts: 5,669	Re: Soil subsidence and trees If the trees were there before the building then the building should be engineered strong enough to withstand the subsidence ... but in saying that maybe when the tree and building were on the scene the tree was much smaller. Problem here in Australia is insurance companies do not pay out on subsidence. It comes out of your pocket to underpin a house. __________________ Remember to use the "search" function, if you have answers/questions post them so everyone can benefit. Free Tree and Green Industry Link Directory Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping Brisbane Tree Care, Consultations and Arborist Reports Forum Sponsors

18th December 2007, 01:28 AM	#36 (permalink)
Ekka Eric Frei Administrator - Brisbane L5 (Dip) Hort Cert III Arb + some Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane Posts: 5,669	Re: Soil subsidence and trees Hi Bob and welcome. I read it all. In Brisbane here we are in a pretty bad shape from drought. Our dams for 2million people are down to 20%, they were down to 16% but recent rain had a small top up. SEQWater - Dam Operations & Maintenance Problem here is poor engineering which didn't consider clay soils and poor attitudes to trees and the species selection and location has led to lots of houses cracking. The traditional rainfall was around 1200mm a year. I suppose the average in drought is 500mm. However it has been a couple of years of below average rain. That coupled with the fact that our primary dams for water are located to the west which is a lower rainfall area anyway. Why do they build dams in low rainfall areas I hear you ask? Because this is the smart state .... just having a dig. I came from Adelaide in South Australia, average rainfall 550mm, in drought maybe 250mm, and they're sitting on 79% capacity. On this map you just click the city and get the dam levels. H2Overview - Dam level Map So, it's about managing resources, collecting water where it rains, and being able to water. Due to water restrictions trees/gardens only allowed bucket watering certain times. So you can imagine, drought, landscape neglect, houses cracking, engineers and geotechs loving it and under pinners booming. Pretty hard to stand up against an engineers report especially when they pull out some standard we dont have! Now during all of this not many trees died really, sure a few did but not like say the beetle kills in USA or Dutch Elm Disease etc. Anyway, the things I noticed here was no paths around houses and vegetation right up to the walls. Also a termite problem. Houses built up to late 70's didn't have to get the roof water into a drain, most just dump it straight out the down pipe onto the lawn/garden etc. No-one really gave much thought to drought, heck it rains all year around and mainly in summer, so soil is always damp and dams always trickle filled. The immediate solution for most people was installing rainwater tanks for roof run off. I did this to, I collect 3500 litres from 20mm of rain, I use this to top up the pool. State govt gives you $1000 as incentive to put in a tank greater than 3000 litres. Water is the answer, as you say rehydration. Other thing is mulching, reducing that sun exposure. __________________ Remember to use the "search" function, if you have answers/questions post them so everyone can benefit. Free Tree and Green Industry Link Directory Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping Brisbane Tree Care, Consultations and Arborist Reports Forum Sponsors

18th December 2007, 01:30 AM	#37 (permalink)
Sean Freeman PDF King & Arborist Extrodinaire Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Townsville Nth Queensland & Gold Coast Sth Queensland Posts: 1,521	Re: Soil subsidence and trees Hello Bob and welcome I was impressed with that article back in 2001 when I first read it and it still impresses me today. You wouldn't be surprised I suppose to know that there are still a great many who believe and propogate the idea that trees are devilish organisms wantanly sucking water from our parched soils causing millioins of $$'s of damage to valuable realestate.... ah well you can tell a mug, just can't tell them much __________________ Sean Trees are poems that earth writes upon the sky, We fell them down and turn them into paper, That we may record our emptiness. - Kahlil Gibran

18th December 2007, 02:40 PM	#38 (permalink)
azrael Afterburner is shakin' Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Earth Australia Posts: 340	Re: Soil subsidence and trees Hi Bob...welcome Good article .... rationale impressive ...and so eloquently put. I can see you are passionate and committed to care of trees for their enduring landscape contribution. I TOO. Azrael

18th December 2007, 03:05 PM	#39 (permalink)
Oldtimer Cruisin' Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Austin TX Posts: 57	Re: Soil subsidence and Root from trees So far I have learned a lot from this discussion as usual. Here is a more stuff to add to the discussion. I have a fairly large tree about 10 feet from the side of the house. ( About 70 feet tall and 2 feet dbh). The tree was definitely there before they built the house. Recently I have noticed a small crack along the brick face on the side of the house ( the brick wall is not structural but ornamental mostly). Anyway I personally do not care about the cracks or the tree being there since it is my favorite tree for Recreational Climbs and it shades a large portion of the house in the hot Texas Summers. BUT what would happen in a few years when I will try to sell my house and the buyer decides that the tree must go and the foundation or wall re-leveled???? I can always tell the buyer to take a hike right! Should I even try to excavate a barrier trench along the wall and try to install a Barrier to the roots? Is it even worth the efforts or the cost involved?? The roots are now completely under most of the foundation for the house so other than killing the tree the damage is slowly going on as the tree looks for water from the sewer lines under the house foundation. So far there is not obvious impact on the drainage pipes but the roots feeders will get there eventually. I will not hold anyone liable for your opinions so fire away. Options anyone????? By the way a few houses down from mine there is another house and that one has a tree that is actually touching the foundation and they cut a small piece in the roof line for the tree to pass by. That is cool! I will try to get a photo but there is not obvious damage to their foundation so far.

18th December 2007, 11:20 PM	#40 (permalink)
Ekka Eric Frei Administrator - Brisbane L5 (Dip) Hort Cert III Arb + some Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Brisbane Posts: 5,669	Re: Soil subsidence and trees It really depends on a few factors from an engineering point of view. 1/ Soil type, you need to know what you got. 2/ Engineered foundation, what have you got. 3/ Structure of the house. Our house is brick veneer, common here. The strength of the house is in the timber frame and the masonary or brick is a facade to a degree. It bears no loads. 4/ Type of tree. Most people here when they buy a house get a building inspection, your house would be picked up for the tree and the wall. Even if the wall were repaired so it was unnoticeable the builders report would likely nail the tree anyway. But that's here, not where you are. You need to get a pic of that crack ... close and distance, if need be trace the crack in MS paint etc so we can see it. Builders can come out and check the levels with laser, they'll know where it's upheaval or subsidence. Then it's suggested a soil test to know what you exactly have. Then it's also suggested the soil test is also done opposite side of house to a non affected area as a "control" hole. Check and compare for moisture and plasticity/strength. Could be as easy as watering. The root barrier should be about 3' away from the house too, but not done with backhoe or trencher. Need a clean cut, some use water cutters but there are machines similar to a concrete cutter where a rotating blade cuts a clean slot. __________________ Remember to use the "search" function, if you have answers/questions post them so everyone can benefit. Free Tree and Green Industry Link Directory Qualified Brisbane Tree Lopping Brisbane Tree Care, Consultations and Arborist Reports Forum Sponsors

19th December 2007, 02:21 PM	#41 (permalink)
Oldtimer Cruisin' Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Austin TX Posts: 57	Re: Soil subsidence and trees "The root barrier should be about 3' away from the house too, but not done with backhoe or trencher. Need a clean cut, some use water cutters but there are machines similar to a concrete cutter where a rotating blade cuts a clean slot" said Eric. I think that if we were to dig that close to the tree and remove all the roots to place the root barrier I am afraid that a couple of things would take place. First the amount of damage to the root system will devastate the tree so may as well remove it and be done with it. Second I am afraid that disturbing that much soil on one side of the tree will leave it unbalanced without strong root support on that side and easier to tip over in a strong wind storm either falling in top of the house or pulling in the other direction away from mine and into the neighbors yard. So in my view it is not a very simple solution either way for the owner of the house or for the tree. The final alternative (cross the fingers here). Find a buyer that likes trees as much as I do and do not think that the damage to the brick veneer is a big deal and they will sign up in the dotted line without problems and hand over the check. ($250K more or less but who is counting!). The way properties are changing hands in this city it could be possible! Who knows. I will try to post a photo of the tree. The crack on the brick is too small to see in a photo. It kind of follows along the grout used to keep the bricks together so it can be easily fill-in with a similar color material and very few people would even notice it. (tricky eh!) The tree is a Cedar Elm (Ulmus crassifolia) COMMENTS from Google search: Found growing beside Ashe Juniper ("cedar") in Hill Country, hence name; wood hard and heavy, knotty; often planted as shade tree; if you need a vertical tree this on is more tall than broad, each one has its own individual shape. Thanks for all the free advise. It is nice that you guys are willing to provide this type of info and long distance consultation. Thanks
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